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Turbo xf falcon.

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Do you know what ecu it is running ? What ignition? For the work done that power figure is low, particularly at 14psi and through a manual transmission.

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power seems low for a built engine but it could be the cooler setup killing it

mine did 190ish killerwasps on a stock engine at 11psi stock $100 engine no timing no boost and a stock ignition and one of this things was killing it unsure witch one I think valve springs

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At the moment it is running 3 thermos and an electric water pump for cooling as well as the methanol and dry ice set up PRO250. I have read on other builds that people are running intercoolers. Is this a better option than the methanol and dry ice? Bear in mind that I want a reliable street car that won't cause me grief. From what I have been able to find out about the history of this car, the existing system has been nothing but trouble.

 

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Also, looking at photos of other turbo builds, there engine bays seem to be clutter free, unlike mine.

 

 

 

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It looks to be running the original vane thingy in the intake. Lotsa wiring in there. I wonder whether all that is really necessary. I'd look at a new Ecu, strip all that wiring out and start again. It looks like a fire waiting to happen.

 

A inter cooler will be more user friendly than meth injection as it is pretty much set and forget. Each to their own but. Whoever built it liked it that we and it worked. It's really up to you and what you want to do and what you want from the car.

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At the moment it is running 3 thermos and an electric water pump for cooling as well as the methanol and dry ice set up PRO250. I have read on other builds that people are running intercoolers. Is this a better option than the methanol and dry ice? Bear in mind that I want a reliable street car that won't cause me grief. From what I have been able to find out about the history of this car, the existing system has been nothing but trouble.

 

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It really sounds like they went about the built backwards. Its sounds like they either put the stuff in the car just so they could say they have a dry ice cooler or meth injection. Or the scarier reason was the meth injection and dry ice setup was their fix for the problem that were arising from running the car. Either way none of that shit is needed unless you are really pushing the boundaries of performance in a full drag setup, even then there are much better ways to go about things.

 

If you ran an xr6 turbo intercooler (small in size so doesn't have to fill the entire front of the car, black in colour for the stealth look) from a BA falcon you could do away with the meth injection, dry ice cooler (sorry but that is not a very efficient dry ice cooler as pointed out above) and one thermo (hoping there is a twin thermo on engine side and one on front side of radiator) That for a start will get rid of a bit of shit sitting in your bay.

 

I would pull the engine from the bay and inspect that, and while the engine is out you can have a really good look around the bay and see whats there and what is really needed as I'm guess half the shit in the bay is either pointless or can be done much better with far less shit sitting in the bay. As a bonus you can sell all the worthless shit and get some cash for anything that does need doing.

 

Lastly the computer and ignition are really important items in an injected turbo engine so if that is standard that maybe one of the biggest issues with the way the car ran.

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Thanks for the advice wagoon. It does in fact have twin thermos on engine side and a single in front of the radiator. There is a lot of wiring in the plastic tubing near brake booster and on passenger side near gauge pod. They also installed air horns and a claxon in lieu of the standard horn. A huge wank factor from my perspective but sorting through the wiring will take some time.

Will post some pics of all the shit warning lights they installed inside the car. Would be lit up like a christmas tree.

 

 

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Have to agree Ryan. We have a Haltec sport 1000 to run the vtec mini. It's by no means up to date compared to their new elite ecu but it is light years ahead of my autronic smc.

My brother in law is a pretty smart dude being an aircraft engineer and then he put himself thru a computer programming degree because he was bored. He owns the mini but he has little tuning experience. He was able to tune the mini enough to get it started and running and then input target afr's. They are very user friendly these days and you would be mad not to use one.

I think the main problem is people see them as expensive when compared to lesser ecu's. Problem is come tuning time the lesser ecu can not do the same job as fast and that costs time and money on the dyno and then that transfers to less than optimal performance and potential failures. All of which is way more expensive than the ecu in the first place.

Unlike other performance parts it's hard to make your own ecu that can do the job as well as these modern units. I know the mega squirt gets some love but I don't think they compare to Haltec ecu for tunability by most dyno operators. And that's the thing. Unless you own your own dyno u will not be able to tune it as well as a competent operator on a brand ecu. Well that my experience anyway.

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I think a plan would be :

Strip down & rebuild the engine, check injector size if they're anything under 440cc I'd upgrade them. Bosch Green are 440cc and good for around 400hp at the crank in a 6cyl, or for more headroom Siemens Deka 600cc both are high impedance injectors. Both are quite affordable.

Check fuel pump setup & type. Walbro gss342 are an in tank pump rated to 255lph and would be an easy replacement for a factory unit, or for an external inline pump with a surge tank the good old Bosch 044 are tried and true. A 1:1 fuel pressure Reg ( reputable brand) if not already fitted. If you have a rising rate reg I'd get rid of it.

 

Engine management your wallet is the limit. These are fairly simple engines so don't need all the features In the world to run them. For a basic setup with the TFI dizzy you could run something like a Haltech Platinum Sprint 500 which have 4 ignition drivers and 4 injector drivers as does Microtech LT10C, You would use 3 of the injector outputs to run 3 pairs of injectors in group fire/semi sequential mode and 1 ignition output to go to the tfi module/dizzy/coil and I'd run an MSD 6A CDI ignition box. If you were feeling adventurous you could run ef/au coil packs which run 3x twin pole coils in wasted spark mode (fires 2 cylinders at once one on compression, one on exhaust). This would use 3 ignition drivers and would require a crank trigger and an at least 3 channel igniter box. You could of course go for higher model ecus like the Sport 1000 Ando mentioned with more injector/ignition outputs and run full sequential and 6 individual coils but I don't think it's needed and price grows a lot.

 

The Haltech has the advantage of closed loop O2 control and and at much the same price probably gets the nod. Both of those ecus runs internal MAP sensor so you can do away with the crappy vane afm. You could use an extra ecu output to control boost with addition of a solenoid.

 

A generic 600x300x75 tube and fin air to air intercooler will do the job and give little pressure drop. That's the only thing I'll disagree with wagoon about, the XR6T intercooler is ok for standard but will give significant pressure drop and are fairly small in size. With aftermarket intercoolers so cheap you'd be mad not to go for one. Some 2.5 mild steel mandrel bent tube along with some silicone joiners and clamps will do the trick for piping. Add a BOV for turbo longevity.

 

Like Ando says there are things like the Megasquirt which are a good thing by all reports but have nowhere near the support. The money you save buying might be spent in time having the tuner learn the software.

 

These are just my ideas and believe me I know money doesn't grow on trees.

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I just learnt plenty in the above posts.

So in your opinion XPT the xr6t cooler would be no good for a mild setup? I know they are not perfect but thought that it would be ok to use as a cooler for a reliable mild street crossflow setup.

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Thing is Ryan for the price you pay for the standard xr6 cooler you limit yourself to power potential. The aftermarket coolers are cost effective and leave head room for later for similar cost. I got a good one for naf all 2nd hand brand new never used. It just means your not limited like the factory cooler which gets compromised pretty quickly. That's why the xr6 boys remove them - oh and probably for looks to.

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I just learnt plenty in the above posts.

So in your opinion XPT the xr6t cooler would be no good for a mild setup? I know they are not perfect but thought that it would be ok to use as a cooler for a reliable mild street crossflow setup.

Pretty much exactly for the reasons Ando gave, if you ever wanted to up the ante you would have plenty of headroom to do it. I would only use one on a small engine if I had absolutely zero funds and it was given to me. Intercooler mounting and piping can be annoying in some cars and believe me it's a job you only want to do once.

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As a guide, XPT's Supra made 195 RWkW and 13.8 on the quarter using an XR6T cooler. If this is the extent of performance you're after, then it will do.

That was actually an aftermarket upgrade made for BA-BF which is significantly larger than the factory unit, supposedly efficient up to 300rwkw on an xr6t. Not massive by any means with a core size of 450x305x75. The factory XR6 ones are 175mm high; 370mm wide, 55mm thick. You would gain power in an xr6 just from removing the restriction and would sustain power levels longer through better cooling efficiency.

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I really don't envy your task mate, there is a lot of stuff there you would have to ask WTF does it do.

 

Is this your current everyday driver? Do you plan on it being a weekend car or everyday driver? Reason I ask this is because if you plan on driving it everyday you really need to rip all that shit out asap as it will probably cause issues over the longer term. If it's a weekender you can get away with leaving it in there for a bit longer and pulling it out piece by piece. The scary thing about the pic of the wiring in post #16 on the first page is you would have to assume that that is the level of effort put into the rest of the wiring on the car which even by my crappy standards is bad and dangerous.

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It will be a weekend driver wagoon along with my white xf sedan. It isn't registered atm and I'm cleaning out the shed so I can put it in there and work on it. Once I can figure out what they're for I can start removing them all and replace all the dash plastics that are now fucked.

 

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Ok cool. Since your close enough to me I have an XF ute sitting in my yard that you are welcome to if you need, I can send particular pics if you like. I do have the plastic trim that is under the dash that goes under the steering column as well as a glovebox if you need one. Let me know what you need and I can see if I have it.

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Thanks for the offer wagoon. Will likely take you up on the offer once I start removing the crap.

 

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