Outback Jack 6,352 Posted July 27, 2015 Should be able to set base timing to 30 degrees but will have to use a digital timing light to see it go out that far. I couldnt even get ash's crossflow started without a map loaded. But that was with est dizzy. Are you running a vac dizzy with points or was it xf with fuel inj and ecu originally? Then disconnect all that shit and hook up msd with map loaded up properly and will run. Also check msd is set to 6 cylinder, rev limit it to 6000 for now and make sure input is set to Halls Effect. Jack. Jack I'm sure he said he's running a Streetfire not 6AL-programmable, which means whatever curve he has is purely done by the dizzy not the box. The only "programmable" function those Streetfires will do is rpm limit. The dizzy needs removing and put on a graph machine and the weights need to be modified to limit max advance, probably needs stiffer springs to come in later too. Well running all that nice motor he should piss the street fire off and get the programmable, then can run a dizzy that doesnt rely on springs like some friggin 15th century clock. That info is still good, even without a programmable unit, just disregard the retard curve bit. Thats all from me. 2 gerg and matt_lamb_160 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mustardxf 29 Posted July 27, 2015 Have found a tif dizzy is $70 a good price for one? 1 slydog reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mustardxf 29 Posted July 27, 2015 Will grab it then, didn't think it would be that easy to find. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted July 27, 2015 Just make sure its for a xflow not a ohc 1 Mustardxf reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mustardxf 29 Posted July 28, 2015 TFI dizzy has been acquired. Now will the gear off my current dizzy be a straight swap with the TFI one? 1 slydog reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mustardxf 29 Posted July 29, 2015 HELP!! Ive just gone to hand crank the motor to TDC to take the dizzy out to put the new one in. The bolt that holds the pully/balancer on has come loose! Ive hand cranked it numerous times before with no problem. What I do? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butcha 111 Posted July 29, 2015 Crank it back the other way. 1 slydog reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted July 29, 2015 Get it sorted buddy ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mustardxf 29 Posted July 29, 2015 Yeah sorted it, torqued it to spec and could crank it the right way. just hoping it doesn't keep coming loose.Just waiting on a rotor button for the dizzy and a heli coil kit as one of the manifold bolt holes stripped.Should be going again in a week or so and hopefully running good enough to take it to the next test and tune!also getting a call tomorrow for a apprenticeship as a fitter and turner so fingers crossed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted July 29, 2015 Not all have the bolt as there a interference fit unit and the bolt is only to seat them not hold them realistically. Good luck with the job bro... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mustardxf 29 Posted July 29, 2015 Oh okay that makes sense! Its only a standard balancer which is weird as I thought the builder would of went with a better one.Cheers..Quick question, how long did you baby your motor before you started giving it to it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted July 29, 2015 Till I got it out of the shed...Legit that engine got a oil change and gears tested up and down the street then loaded on a trailer and taken to Heathcoate for the AFF drags in 2014. That was 2 days of racing for run in. 2 Mustardxf and Thom reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mustardxf 29 Posted July 29, 2015 Thats what ya want.Mine has had its oil change, its getting a exhaust then off to the dyno to get tuned then hopefully the drags to see how it goes probably won't run the best time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted July 29, 2015 Remember mine doesn't need cam run in as such cos it's a solid roller but it needed time to bed the rings still. Blew smoke for the first meeting but was expected.I knew it was safe or I wouldn't have taken it down though. 1 Thom reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butcha 111 Posted July 29, 2015 20 min run time for the cam coupla revs in the shed..grand parade then off to 6k full race. Never babied a new engine just run the cam and vary the load. Quicker you bed rings the better. 4 Thom, Mustardxf, slydog and 1 other reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted July 29, 2015 ^^^^ what they all said - once the cam break in is done and you have dropped the oil and fitler (must do filter as they clog with Molly grease) just go out and get everything up to temp and then flog it. 1 slydog reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mustardxf 29 Posted July 30, 2015 Well I fucked the hell coil, tapped the hole half way took it out to clean put it back in and realised after a couple turns that it pulled to the left and started going off course hole isn't straight and the bolt only goes in so far.Don't know what to do, could just run with out that bolt, or do the bolt up as much as i can and thins washers to space it out?any tips on what I should do? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mustardxf 29 Posted July 31, 2015 TFI help, I installed the TFI wired it up as such Brown to white msd signal wireRed with green stripe to red 12volt msd wireBlack grounded it to the bodyNow it won't start, the light comes on for a split second which is normal. when cranking should the light flash to say its getting a signal? don't know whether its the module or if I need a better earth. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted July 31, 2015 Brown what ??? And throw that fuckin module to the fuck house FFS. Whats on the coil ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted July 31, 2015 OK looked in a couple of OLD TFI dizzys I have 3 different colours but ONLY for the trigger wire. So closest to the block is earth. Middle is 12volts switched,red/green coil wire will do. Outside closest to the strut tower feeds the MSD. Depending on the MSD unit it will be white or white blue. Coil + gets orange from MSD loom (orange and black will be together and are THE ONLY WIRES TO BE CONNECTED TO THE COIL) Coil - gets black form MSD loom (orange and black will be together and are THE ONLY WIRES TO BE CONNECTED TO THE COIL) What differs on your end looks like power feed and maybe coil has other shit on it at a guess. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
broken-wheel 659 Posted July 31, 2015 yeah what sly said, i went through this as well and threw the module away Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mustardxf 29 Posted July 31, 2015 orange and black to the coil. I used wires 6-3-1 brown(6)the diagram I got and went off showed number 6 as a brown wire which went to the msd white wire(signal wire) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted July 31, 2015 Or delete the module and have zero issues... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mustardxf 29 Posted August 1, 2015 Yeah but that means I need to pull it apart again Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
