Bang for Buck Parts

[Anthony Pllu 262]

hey guys.

 

as some of you know my LTD has broken and i was just looking to order some parts.

 

Ill more than likley just ebay most of it.

 

after doing some thinking i might just borrow some money and get all the little bits that i need done to it so i can stop complaining in my build thread.

 

Things on list so far

 

Carpet,

 

Engine Mounts,

 

Dizzy,

 

Coil-leads-plugs.

 

Balancer.

 

So was thinking as i could blow a shit ton of cash and go buy aeroflow, MSD, I.C.E etc etc but thought then ill only get 1 or two things done on my budget.

 

So iv started this tread for people to put up Bang for Buck parts. IE things you have bought that have been fairly cheap but have performed really well.

 

Be good for all of us to see what others are buying as sometimes the most expensive option is not normally the best BANG FOR BUCK.

 

 

 

Any ideas. go for it.

 

 

[bear351c 10,273]

Just my thoughts, go cheap on the carpets, engine mounts, etc. spend all your dough on a GOOD ignition system. It'll wake up your Clevo.!

[Anthony Pllu 262]

was thinking this bad boy 

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MSD-READY-TO-RUN-IGNITION-KIT-FORD-302-351C-460-DISTRIBUTOR-COIL-LEADS-MSD-84747-/160889891674?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2575c8eb5a

[Anthony Pllu 262]

do the 6AL boxes make a difference. their about 250 more to add to a kit

[hendrixhc 10,921]

Go the ICE kit. Work out how to hook it up and get it working them come and show me.

[Anthony Pllu 262]

i was thinking of a plug and play system. but kinda like the idea of the ignition box. so can set rpm limit and other goodies. will have to wait and see how money is going to be. dont want to rock up at your place to fix the car and all i have is a ignition system and no mounts 

[Anthony Pllu 262]

Go the ICE kit. Work out how to hook it up and get it working them come and show me.

might want to check your cables for the battery in the boot. ICE seem pretty anal about direct earth from battery to block

 

 

7 Amp 2 Step (7842MC) Ignition Box

 

 * Supplied finished - simply connect at both ends - no termination necessary. 

 * Ensure distributor to module loom is routed separately from module to coil loom and high tension wires. 

 

Module to coil loom (supplied semi finished). Please ensure the following: 

 

 * Orange wire to coil positive (run direct to ignition coil - do not splice with any other wires). 

 * Green wire to coil negative (run direct to ignition coil - do not splice with any other wires). 

 * Black wire to earth / ground (run direct to engine block - do not splice with any other wires). 

 * Be sure to keep the earth / ground wire from the ICE modules as short as possible. Always run the earth / ground 

wire from the ignition module (and voltage booster if fitted), to somewhere on the engine block, same as the battery 

earth / ground cable as per the instructions below. This is the only way to guarantee proper earth / ground. 

 

Optional features: 

 

 * White (single) wire : Apply 12 volts to activate low rpm limit ( usually armed by trans-brake switch or similar ). 

 * Green (single) wire = Tach Output ( 12 volt square wave - normally high, then low for 1.1 m/s per spark ). 

 * Red wires: If connected = distributor trigger mode; If disconnected = crank trigger mode. 

 

Power supply to coil positive - no booster or inc booster 2316 / 2216 - ideal: 

 

 * Supply 12 volts switched (13.8 - 14.8 volts from alternator) to coil positive or booster (if fitted) via ignition switch. 

 * If vehicle has ballast resistor or resistor wire, by-pass these and feed direct voltage to coil or red wire of booster. 

 * Never leave original wire from the ignition switch connected to the coil positive if booster fitted (refer diagram). 

 * Do not try to power anything but a single coil with the booster. 

 * If wired correctly, two wires go to coil positive and one wire goes to coil negative. 

 

Earth / Ground: 

 

THE IMPORTANCE OF THIS STEP CANNOT BE OVER EMPHASIZED AND WILL VOID THE WARRANTY ON THE 

IGNITION IF IT IS NOT FOLLOWED. 

 * Battery negative cable MUST run direct to a bare metal bolt boss on the engine block (should also be attached to 

body) as a single cable. 

 * If the battery is mounted in the front of the vehicle the cable must be a minimum of 12mm - 13mm in diameter 

including the shielding, and must consist of a fine strand copper core. 

 * If the battery is mounted in the rear of the vehicle the cable must be a minimum of 14mm to 15mm in diameter 

including the shielding, and must consist of a fine strand copper core. 

 * For street cars, if you currently have the battery earth / ground cable running from the battery negative to the 

chassis and chassis to the engine and are relying on the body / roll cage to make the connection for earth / ground, 

DO NOT assume that because your existing ignition works like this, that the ICE Ignition will also work. You will 

void your warranty and quite possibly have to buy replacement parts. 

 * For race cars, if you currently have the battery earth / ground cable running from the battery negative to the roll 

cage and are relying on the roll cage and aluminum engine plates to make the connection for earth / ground, DO 

NOT assume that because your existing ignition works like this, that the ICE Ignition will also work. You will void 

your warranty and quite possibly have to buy replacement parts. 

[hendrixhc 10,921]

Yeah my battery is earthed to the block via the starter motor. It will also be earthed at the chassis in the boot.

[Anthony Pllu 262]

anyone had any experiance with these. i would expect them to be nasty 

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251238484230?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

but fkn cheap as hell.

 

this the kit you got james

 

http://www.iceignition.com/new-products/7640mv-7-amp-street-series

 

looks the goods. was hoping to do the ignition for under 1k but all ones with the ignition box are all over 1k

[Thom 6,654]

Looks to be procomp

[wagoon 2,429]

Be real careful with ebay as most of that stuff will be procomp, stay well away from procomp as it will break then you just have to buy a good ignition anyway

[hendrixhc 10,921]

Yeah looks like it. Speak to Outlaws, their prices are pretty decent on that gear.

[Anthony Pllu 262]

yeah just sent them a email. last time i bought parts there they were pretty good, mixed and matched stuff to get the best for my budget

[Anthony Pllu 262]

Be real careful with ebay as most of that stuff will be procomp, stay well away from procomp as it will break then you just have to buy a good ignition anyway

yeah i dont buy no named brands from ebay

[hendrixhc 10,921]

I steer clear of anything with Pro or Comp in the name.

[NZXD 2,328]

I steer clear of anything with Pro or Comp in the name.

 

What about comp cams or pro stitutes.

[gerg 10,871]

Pro-form, SuperPro, Competition Warehouse...

 

That first dizzy looks like the procomp one i inherited, except with go-fast red bits. Had a completely wrong curve to it (too early and too much), was two-piece with the shitty lower half that gets stuck in your block, and the vac advance that shat itself after only a couple of months.

 

You pay peanuts, you get peanuts.

 

Buy it once, pay what you need to, and never think about it again.

[hendrixhc 10,921]

Nup nuthin.