Haf 1 Posted February 20, 2014 Hey Guys, Newbie here and have searched the entire site as best as I could to try and find the answers I was looking for before I put up this post. I have a 1996 XH XR6 Ute which I am trying to service, especially the distributor and associated parts. How the bloody hell do you access the thing when it's hidden under the fuel injection system like that? ? WTF !? So far I have removed the high tension leads, distributor cap and rotor, can't access anything else, it's too cramped under there, I need to replace the ignition coil that is also under the EFI on the side of the block! So I started to remove the EFI by taking all the bolts from the inlet manifold out and I still can hardly move it out and it doesn't assist much in gaining any further access, so before I got the with it all I packed up and left everything until tomorrow hoping I would find some answers here. Do I need to remove the EFI to gain proper access to the distributor and ignition coil? If yes, how do I completely remove the EFI? If no, how do I do it? Thanks in advance guys........ Haf..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Outback Jack 6,352 Posted February 20, 2014 Heya Mate, Nah ya don't need to take off the intake manifold, but I'll be the first to admit.... it's a bastard to get to...... lol The dizzy will come out if you take off the spacer under the rotor button, make sure ya mark the dizzy position and have the motor on TDC, and know what ya doin if ya pull it out. Don't replace with cheapo dizzy either.... or you'll get a cheap gear and module and it will just be problems. Go the Bosch Dizzy and coil. The coil is easiest to get to from underneath or with the dizzy out. I should be doing mine next weekend, so if ya got time, I'll post pics for ya then. Jack. 1 Ants reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Haf 1 Posted February 20, 2014 Hi Jack, I'll be doing it today as the car is in pieces. I'm going to go and grab some ramps and stands and approach it from underneath. Thanks for the info and help. Cheers, Haf. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Outback Jack 6,352 Posted February 20, 2014 OK, if ya get stuck, give us a Hoi! Just make sure ya get a new intake gasket for her, or you'll get leaks and it makes em run like shit. Good luck. Jack. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,654 Posted February 20, 2014 the intake has support brackets/ fuel lines holding it in, but you don't need to remove the intake manifold, just remove the air box to give yourself some more room, which intake does it have, is it like an Ef/El intake with the throttle body up too pointing towards the centre of the car or does it have the eb/Ed style intake that drops down the side with the throttle body facing the front of the car? if it's the second one pulling the throttle body off make life alot easier, but it's not a necessity to get the dizzy out Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Haf 1 Posted February 21, 2014 I pulled the air box/intake right out and that gave me heaps more room and placed her up on some ramps. I've put the intake manifold back on after reading Outback Jack's latest reply and I haven't replaced the gasket. If I fire her up and she runs like crap I'll know what the problem is. The new ignition coil is in place, I'm just going to mark the dizzy and TDC and pull her out to upgrade all it's components. Thanks again guys, beer o'çlock shortly I reckon, Cheers, Haf. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Haf 1 Posted February 21, 2014 Outback Jack, What is the best method to find TDC on this engine? I found a few descriptions and am not sure which is the best one to follow? Haf 1 Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted February 21, 2014 Ill post up how I do it when I can get on the computer as I hate typing out on a ph. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPArKy_Dave 8,892 Posted February 21, 2014 What distributor access.... they're impossible to get to. LOL! But seriously, as suggested above, remove the air box and rubber intake hose. It may also help, to remove the thermo fans too. Take the distributor cap off, and undo the leads from the spark plugs, then remove the leads and cap in one assembly. Once on the ground, replace leads, then thread them back in the way they came out. Factory Motorcraft leads are one of the best for these. Motorcraft leads are usually good for around 200-250,000km, before they start to crossfire and earth out through the plug lead insulation. These engines can be a bit picky about leads sometimes, as they're a fairly high powered ignition system. Coils can last over 300,000km, or fail at 150,000km..... no rhyme or reason. They're usually pretty good though. Coils can be got at, by reaching up the side of the block, from underneath the car, behind the passenger front wheel. It's about the only way to get to em. They're a 10mm bolt head from memory. Don't use cheap coils on them either, whatever you do. Not worth the hassle. If the original is good still, I'd leave it. If you've undone the intake manifold, you'll probably have to replace the gasket, as they don't usually seal properly, once undone. About $20.00 for the gasket, from memory. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted February 21, 2014 OK on the computer and am asking what are you servicing on the dizzy and why please? That aside pull the rocker cover and wind the engine over (with a friend tapping the key to get you close) till number 6 rockers are both open evenly.One is about to close the other about to open all the way and the rotor button on the dizzy is pointing to the left hand side shock tower side of the car at like 6 oclock or bottom of the dizzy.Check your work by removing number 1 plug and winding it over by hand on the crank balancer with a thumb over the plug hole...if you feel pressure your on the correct stroke. Rob's TDC finding...works on xflows aswell guys and how I do it on mine. 2 Outback Jack and SPArKy_Dave reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gaz 1,085 Posted February 21, 2014 Old mechanics tip #2 Pull that stinkin' coil off the side of the block and mount it on top of the manifold. If you get it in the perfect spot, the coil lead will still reach the dissy. You will need to extend the low tension lead. 1 slydog reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Haf 1 Posted February 21, 2014 Slydog, Just recently bought the ute with 167000 km on it and it drives nice and tight. It has Ford service history up to 100000 km and then it stops. It has had oil changes and I reckon that's about it. Once the engine is hot it develops a miss and it's drinking lots of fuel. The spark plugs were stuffed, I've changed those and the high tension leads look like the originals. So I've thought stuff it, I'll just replace everything in one foul swoop while I've got it all apart and since it hasn't seen a spanner in 67000 km I thought it was due. I'll buy another inlet manifold gasket tomorrow as well as a new distributor. Appreciate all the suggestions guys. Haf..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPArKy_Dave 8,892 Posted February 21, 2014 Missing when hot - could be a bad intake manifold gasket. They're pretty simple machines. Run the fault codes first, see what you get. Don't buy a chinese dizzy - they ruin the worm drive on the idler shaft. 167,000kms, is barely run in. At that mileage, I'd expect original everything still. They're pretty hardy drivetrains. Could be a headgasket too. Is the header tank clear? 2 slydog and XTREME KARTS XF reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tyler06 266 Posted February 21, 2014 Head gasket or intake gasket would be my first point of call. 1 slydog reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XTREME KARTS XF 1,212 Posted February 21, 2014 It could be the TFI module. pull it off, put some hi temp paste on (you can buy it from electronic stores, apply the paste to the side that contacts the distributer) and see if that helps. If it doesn't buy a new one. 1 SPArKy_Dave reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Haf 1 Posted February 21, 2014 Back to Repco today and I'll grab a new inlet manifold gasket and Bosch distributor. TFI module, is that the grey rectangular insert on thr side of the dizzy? If it is I have one of those ready to go, so I hopefully have everything covered bar the head gasket. If the head gasket is blown shouldn't there be air bubbles in the radiator water/coolant? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Outback Jack 6,352 Posted February 21, 2014 Outback Jack, What is the best method to find TDC on this engine? I found a few descriptions and am not sure which is the best one to follow? Haf The guys above have covered it well, also if ya rocker cover is off, on the 4L there is a mark on the cam wheel that lines up with the dizzy side of the head. Lines up horizontal with the top of the head , to the right as you look at it from front of engine bay. Just make sure you check the pressure on No.1 cylinder as stated above. And mark the dizzy position in liquid paper before ya move anything once at TDC. Oh, and head gasket can leak water to oil....oil to water, compression to water, or just blow it out the side and lose compression, depends where it blows. Also , when you put the new intake gasket on it torques from the centre-out, go in a square and work ya way out, will help torque it nice and flat. While ya got it off, check all ya vacuum lines on the intake manifold too for leaks. Hope that helps. Jack. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Haf 1 Posted February 22, 2014 Jack, Found the mark on the cam wheel and got it perfectly horizontal with the dizzy side of the head just as the 1st cylinder made compression. Old dizzy out, new one in, I've also fitted the new inlet manifold gasket. What a difference in thickness between the two. I reckon the old one was the original, it was 1-2mm thick. Just have to drop the oil, put in the new fuel filter, fit a new gasket to the cooling system and she should be right to fire up. Haf. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Outback Jack 6,352 Posted February 22, 2014 Cool shit man, hope she runs like a pearler for ya =) . My new dizzy is on its way soon, so will be doing this maybe next weekend as well. If ya can get a small tube of Dielectric grease and put it on the connector that joins the harness to the TFI module on the dizzy, keeps moisture out..... they hate moisture. jack. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPArKy_Dave 8,892 Posted February 22, 2014 The new intake gaskets ARE thicker than the originals. I think they revised the design. These XH 4.0l engines are also timed to 0degrees TDC. (EF/EL spec) ie, the dizzy rotor should line up EXACTLY with no.1 pin on the dizzy cap, with the engine engine at TDC. The XG's are different I believe. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPArKy_Dave 8,892 Posted February 22, 2014 Use Dielectric Grease on the TFI to dizzy surface. New Dizzy should've come with a TFI already. I would be surprised, if the Dizzy itself, was the cause of your problems. TFI module or Hall effect sensor maybe. 1 XTREME KARTS XF reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Haf 1 Posted February 23, 2014 All back together, spins and spins and won't kick. I wonder if there's moisture in the TFI module connection? What else? I'll go over all the connections again...., Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Haf 1 Posted February 23, 2014 Went over all the connections, high tension leads, the lot and could not find anything. Now I have flushed the radiator during thos whole process and am pondering moisture in the TFI. She spins well and wants to kick and just misses out, it almost sounds like it gets fuel then doesn't. So that's why I'm thinking and hoping moisture in the TFI connection. I don't have any of that special grease so I sprayed the crap out of both connections with marine grade Inox. It sounded a bit better but still won't run. I'll let her sit overnight, try again in the morning and if it's still no good I'll go and grab some of that special grease. One other thing I've thought of is that small hose that connectd to the rocket cover near the oil cap had come off. It connects to the breather on the rocket cover and connects somewhere else under the EFI, I couldn't find it's connection under the EFI so I left it off, could this be a problem? Thanks.,, Haf; Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Outback Jack 6,352 Posted February 23, 2014 Yeah, thats ya vacuum hose to the throttle body, make sure it's hooked up properly. I hope ya marked everything before pulling the dizzy out.... lol . probably something silly though...... always is...... Jack. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Haf 1 Posted February 24, 2014 Hooked the hose back up between the inlet manifold and rocket cover breather (PCI) I think it's called. Grabbed some Delectric grease for the TFI and guess what, won't start. Re-gapped the spark plugs, no good. Placed piston 1 at TDC and checked to make sure the rotor button was in line with lead number 1 and it was. Still won't kick. Check every spark plug, they all have spark, tske the new dizzy out and put the old one back in at the marked setting, still won't kick and now my battery is flat. It's on charge now overnight, I have spark, air and compression, tomorrow I'll pull the fuel line off at the EFI to make sure I have fuel. I have turned the dizzy from side to side (old and new) during starting and no change. There's a mechanic down the road who's going to give me a hand, any ideas from you guys?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites