X-F250

Not quite the solution but you fellas were on the right track. I had another go at it this morning, pulled all the leads off and went to put them back on again just to be sure. That's when I noticed that the firing order stamped on the posts on the el cheapo Chinese dizzy cap was wrong, 5 and 3 were reversed. Swapped 'em over, cranked it and it fired right up!

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Not quite the solution but you fellas were on the right track. I had another go at it this morning, pulled all the leads off and went to put them back on again just to be sure. That's when I noticed that the firing order stamped on the posts on the el cheapo Chinese dizzy cap was wrong, 5 and 3 were reversed. Swapped 'em over, cranked it and it fired right up!

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Not quite the solution but you fellas were on the right track. I had another go at it this morning, pulled all the leads off and went to put them back on again just to be sure. That's when I noticed that the firing order stamped on the posts on the el cheapo Chinese dizzy cap was wrong, 5 and 3 were reversed. Swapped 'em over, cranked it and it fired right up!

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Not quite the solution but you fellas were on the right track. I had another go at it this morning, pulled all the leads off and went to put them back on again just to be sure. That's when I noticed that the firing order stamped on the posts on the el cheapo Chinese dizzy cap was wrong, 5 and 3 were reversed. Swapped 'em over, cranked it and it fired right up!

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Did you use the correct firing order roller windsors use the 13726548 order like a Cleveland not 15486372 like a pre 86 302 windsor

Just realised its a 4.0 not a 5.0l

read Thom's post and i was wrong also 

If the Coil is visually cracked, it will likely be no good.
If the hall-effect sensor has failed in the closed/power-on position, it can overheat the coil.
 
You can easily test the primary/secondary winding resistance on any coil, using a multi-meter.

Ignition issues are quite often caused by a dodgy hall effect sensor.
It can also cause the coil to fail, yeah.
 
You need an oscilloscope to confirm what's actually happening though.
 

Ugh, it's not as fixed as I though it was. Went for a 40km drive this morning perfectly fine. Pulled up at home, switched it off and went upstairs. Came back out at lunch time and it wouldn't start again. Same as before, cranks fine, Smartlock seems to be working fine, just no spark. Could it be the hall effect sensor in the dizzy?

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Nah, bad fuel from the servo. I'm not the only one who's had problems.

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Something to keep in mind: If the ute has a bench seat you'd likely have to put a set of buckets in to make it useable. Depending on which state you're in the swap requires a mod plate (because you're changing seating capacity), and in some of those states P-platers can't drive a mod-plated car, even for something as minor as a seat swap.

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Something to keep in mind: If the ute has a bench seat you'd likely have to put a set of buckets in to make it useable. Depending on which state you're in the swap requires a mod plate (because you're changing seating capacity), and in some of those states P-platers can't drive a mod-plated car, even for something as minor as a seat swap.

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Thanks Jack, but it's definitely not the battery. I swapped the new battery out of my Brother's EA, NC still wouldn't start but the EA started fine with the battery out of the Fairlane.

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could be ign switch even. try it a heap of times, if it comes good, its likely the switch.
 

Yes. Drain tank, but you also need to flush the lines until the fuel filter.... with clean fuel, after its the right colour.... new filter... new pump with filter sock.
Something has contaminated the tank, clean completely before refill.
Ive had cars sit 10 years and not do that.... just fuel gets stale.
You just stirred up all the crap in the tank with 5L.
 
Good luck.
 
Jack.
 
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I'd start with the injectors then as mine was running a bit rough before I did them, check the intake track and exhaust system aswell

G'day guys,
Deankdx suggested I make a thread about how to remove broken bolts, and since I had to do it again today I figured I'd take some photos as I went.
 
Todays patient is my brother's 1990 Telstar.

He overtightened one of the rocker cover bolts and snapped the head off. Luckily it's a long bolt so there was quite a bit of meat hanging out of the head.

This is probably the easiest bolt extraction to do since there's plenty of room to get a pair of pliers in.

Couple of turns and out she comes.

Next time I'll show how I got the snapped rocker stud in my Falcon out with a Dremel.
 
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G'day guys,
Deankdx suggested I make a thread about how to remove broken bolts, and since I had to do it again today I figured I'd take some photos as I went.
 
Todays patient is my brother's 1990 Telstar.

He overtightened one of the rocker cover bolts and snapped the head off. Luckily it's a long bolt so there was quite a bit of meat hanging out of the head.

This is probably the easiest bolt extraction to do since there's plenty of room to get a pair of pliers in.

Couple of turns and out she comes.

Next time I'll show how I got the snapped rocker stud in my Falcon out with a Dremel.
 
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Fiddled around with the choke and idle speed screw and that seems to have done the trick.
 
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Ok, cool.
So if it's still idling high, it maybe still running on the high speed idle circuit which will use the progressive idle circuit (the next step up after idling).
 
The setting for the idle screw of wind all the way in and out 2 revolutions is like an industry standard for starting off, it'll get the car running but needs to be adjusted once the engine is up to normal operating temperature.
I'd get the engine warmed up, loosen the three screws on the choke housing and back it right off. Then once it's up to temp the idle should drop down to normal ( should do it really soon but anyway) then start with your idle speed screw, does it make a difference if you turn it 1/4 turn? If not, why? Are the linkages around the right way etc. once that's sorted go to the mixture, wind it out until the idle starts to dip then back in 1/2 a turn. If you can wind it out and it makes no difference it still isn't running on the idle circuit, somethings not right, re check assembly.
 
 
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Thanks guys, I blew out all the passages before I put it on as the carb had been sitting under the house for a few years. Played around with the idle control solenoid and all seems good. The inlet manifold gasket is new, and seems to not be leaking... Could it have something to do with the Electric choke?
 
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Hey guys,
My ute passed roadworthy but the seat is looking pretty ratty (or mousey, those little bastards have been everywhere). I've heard these utes use an E-series seat rail and mounts, and my brother just wrote of his EB wagon with a nice interior. Is it a straight swap? I also have an XE S-Pack seat that I'd rather use but it'd need modification to fit, correct?
 
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