76gxl

I have a Cleveland with a 393 stroker kit, 292h cam, stock cleaned up heads, 6AL and the Power Adder Fitech on Top. 
 
Engine dyno'd (on an engine dyno somewhere in Parra) at 440HP, He dyno'd it prior to the Fitech, using his own carb he got it to about 400hp. 
All he did for the Fitech was hook it up, enter a few parameters and run it up and down.

I was told that that 450hp was best case scenario for my combo, so the Fitech at 440hp considering the predicted optimal number and his achieved carb number, i'm really happy with the results. 
 
It's going in to my XE Ghia with a T56 and a 9 Inch, but it's still a fair way off from being together, should be fun!

Howdy,
 
Seriously looking at putting a 600hp fitech on my 351 Cleveland. Is anyone using one or a equivalent one. What are the pros and cons.
 
The way I am looking at it is it won't cost me much more than a good carb and dyno.
 
A con for me is I live in the country and the car is only a weekend cruiser but every time I drive the car I do around 200km going to cruises etc. The last thing I want to do is spend good coin on something that will leave me stranded on the side of the road and have no clue of how to fix the bastard.!!
 
Cheers.

A very few 1995 Cobra mustangs had the 351W. I believe it was something around 250 cars total. They were pretty much a dealership sold race car. I actually have a 1973 351C sitting in my garage, with less than 40k miles on it. It almost went into my car, but the cost of anything 351C related here is quite high. I could build a 600HP 408 stroker Windsor from a 351W cheaper, by far, than i could get 500HP from a Cleveland. They just have very little support here. Ironically, all of the good stuff comes from Australia, and I'm sure you are familiar with the shipping cost.

seems everytime i watch something ford on you tube in america its one of those 80's mustangs,and the 5.0L is very popular,over here we were still using the cleveland until late 1982 in new cars,and 1985 in f trucks and others,tell me did the 351w ever come out in those 80's mustangs.

In 30 years time anyone will be able to make replacement parts with a 3d printer.

In 30 years time anyone will be able to make replacement parts with a 3d printer.

Reset the dizzy and it's running sweet. Woohoo, cruise time.

October 72 to be exact. Out of a Fairmont Sedan originally.

post the engine number we can tell you what the engine is out of

When running them as a pickup purple and orange wires on your MSD. or a module using the white wire? if your running a module I think your using the white wire

If hooked up as a pickup it does not matter witch way the wires are, it will not hurt the pickup it will either run off song or not at all if it does this do the wires the other way

If its just hooked up as the white wire its still red to red an green is where the black will go

Your not running a electronic dissy in a points block? as they have different shaft size it will work but it flogs the bush in the dissy and causes the issue your having where the trigger wheel touches the pickup causing a miss or backfire, it will aso break the trigger wheel in extreme cases. I only ask as its a pre XD car in your stig it may have a points block and will do the same thing again 

Did this very thing when I put my MSD in. Although the wires appeared to sort of match, (dizzy had black wires, one green trace one orange) and logic would tell you that green trace = green wire, etc they were actually the other way around. I found that out when it ran like a busted fart. When you select inductive pick-up, the MSD is looking for an upward slope on the AC wave that the pick-up makes. If you get it backwards, the down slope will come first followed by the upward, meaning your ignition will trigger late (retard). I'm pretty sure that's the gist of it.... Crazy am I correct?