PRO250

Somone take pictures of mine, i think i could line one side of my shed with them

need more engine stands i think theres only 10


 

Somone take pictures of mine, i think i could line one side of my shed with them

need more engine stands i think theres only 10


 

Rebuilding someone elses car can be a pain, it can be easyer to start again sometimes

but put pen on paper and see if you can afford it. the wiring is scary that's for sure

mate that has happened to me as well get rid of the nolathne bush and replace with a superpro version they are way better. Mine did the same when it was a street car and I replaced them with superpro and they stand the caning I give it on the drag strip no worries.

I also think you run a little to much timing we run that cam in chris beacon but I moved the cam centre line as I run NOS on that engine, that is on its arse at 5600 but on NOS will go past 6200 no worrys we only run 28 degrees on his and his engine has a full point less comp, that cam just does not like timing i can still run 32 on my big engine with way more comp doing it again i would have gone a solid

I like the 570 streets i run 2 250s with them good carby easy to work on and rear metering plate and seem to work well on the little 2fiddys out of the box

 

Thanks, I do try.

Ive never tubbed one of my own cortinas for a reason, you can fit a 235 tyre under a stock arch with no real issues, a bit of pumping you can get a 255 tyre as mine will take with no tubs I little folding on a TE will take a 245 tyre and that's a big looking shoe on a Cortina chrises beacon ran 235 tyres and you could hook corners and not touch the tyres on anything there was a fair amount of room under there 245 would of fit but 255 would not 

My grey car has a 8.5 inch slick and 10.5 inch side wall. it would be good for 10s with that much footprint given your car is a NA 6cyl you will never be able to use the extra tyre anyway even a 250hp engine is not going to unload a 235 et at the track and on the street a 235 hooks not to bad as your moving nothing

Ive never looked at how much power mine has but it does 1.6 60s so it moves off ok ive never had traction issues even with the stock rearend that car also does 1.91 60 on a bridgestone street tyre and as the old saying goes races are won or lost in the first 60 foot

 

From the centre of the sump to the rack is 2 inches I will also add the factory crossflow sump in a late factory crossy Cortina is not the same as all Cortina sumps theres a pressed section to clear the rack you fit a stock sump theres less the a inch there

my blown car has spun alloy mounts and a bolted straight thru it. my last one was chained and ended up ripping the mount points off the block so its mounted so it will not move at all

webbers fit the engine bay fine if you don't run ramair pod style filters I run trumpets and they clear fine althow in a TE you need to mod the section the heaterbox sits on just a little tap sorts it out

as for twisting fit a antiroll bar it will also stop the chassis eating the power the engine makes mine went from 1.68 to 1.56 with this mod and I was still running 3.5 diff gears at that point so it boggied out of the hole for a stock corty rearend

 

Arr fresh diped clevo whats not to love

power seems low for a built engine but it could be the cooler setup killing it

mine did 190ish killerwasps on a stock engine at 11psi stock $100 engine no timing no boost and a stock ignition and one of this things was killing it unsure witch one I think valve springs

That's a fair bit the engine must be poking out the bonnet LOL

The twist will kill the body fix the issue straight up and it will not damage it that and it will 60 harder and if its gains 1 10th in the 60 it will gain 2 10ths up the top, all mine have gained a few MPH from it as well, its a must do mod there not like a falcon where the body can support the power they cant take more then a 2litre these things, that or a footy ball in the drivers side I did that for a few months, simple and stops the body diping on the launch mine kept poping the ball and is why I changed to the bar LOL

Has it had the top arm mounts reinforced? do that to. its very hard to save them after it rips the bolt thru the rails ive fixed so many its not funny, so many I make a repair kit for them  3mm angle stiched into the floor, and a 3mm plate on the other side of the rail so if it pulls the mount off the floor it cant pull the bolt thru the rail


The only thing better then a corty is a capri  





 

From the centre of the sump to the rack is 2 inches I will also add the factory crossflow sump in a late factory crossy Cortina is not the same as all Cortina sumps theres a pressed section to clear the rack you fit a stock sump theres less the a inch there

my blown car has spun alloy mounts and a bolted straight thru it. my last one was chained and ended up ripping the mount points off the block so its mounted so it will not move at all

webbers fit the engine bay fine if you don't run ramair pod style filters I run trumpets and they clear fine althow in a TE you need to mod the section the heaterbox sits on just a little tap sorts it out

as for twisting fit a antiroll bar it will also stop the chassis eating the power the engine makes mine went from 1.68 to 1.56 with this mod and I was still running 3.5 diff gears at that point so it boggied out of the hole for a stock corty rearend

 

From the centre of the sump to the rack is 2 inches I will also add the factory crossflow sump in a late factory crossy Cortina is not the same as all Cortina sumps theres a pressed section to clear the rack you fit a stock sump theres less the a inch there

my blown car has spun alloy mounts and a bolted straight thru it. my last one was chained and ended up ripping the mount points off the block so its mounted so it will not move at all

webbers fit the engine bay fine if you don't run ramair pod style filters I run trumpets and they clear fine althow in a TE you need to mod the section the heaterbox sits on just a little tap sorts it out

as for twisting fit a antiroll bar it will also stop the chassis eating the power the engine makes mine went from 1.68 to 1.56 with this mod and I was still running 3.5 diff gears at that point so it boggied out of the hole for a stock corty rearend

 

From the centre of the sump to the rack is 2 inches I will also add the factory crossflow sump in a late factory crossy Cortina is not the same as all Cortina sumps theres a pressed section to clear the rack you fit a stock sump theres less the a inch there

my blown car has spun alloy mounts and a bolted straight thru it. my last one was chained and ended up ripping the mount points off the block so its mounted so it will not move at all

webbers fit the engine bay fine if you don't run ramair pod style filters I run trumpets and they clear fine althow in a TE you need to mod the section the heaterbox sits on just a little tap sorts it out

as for twisting fit a antiroll bar it will also stop the chassis eating the power the engine makes mine went from 1.68 to 1.56 with this mod and I was still running 3.5 diff gears at that point so it boggied out of the hole for a stock corty rearend

 

That's a fair bit the engine must be poking out the bonnet LOL

The twist will kill the body fix the issue straight up and it will not damage it that and it will 60 harder and if its gains 1 10th in the 60 it will gain 2 10ths up the top, all mine have gained a few MPH from it as well, its a must do mod there not like a falcon where the body can support the power they cant take more then a 2litre these things, that or a footy ball in the drivers side I did that for a few months, simple and stops the body diping on the launch mine kept poping the ball and is why I changed to the bar LOL

Has it had the top arm mounts reinforced? do that to. its very hard to save them after it rips the bolt thru the rails ive fixed so many its not funny, so many I make a repair kit for them  3mm angle stiched into the floor, and a 3mm plate on the other side of the rail so if it pulls the mount off the floor it cant pull the bolt thru the rail


The only thing better then a corty is a capri  





 

That's a fair bit the engine must be poking out the bonnet LOL

The twist will kill the body fix the issue straight up and it will not damage it that and it will 60 harder and if its gains 1 10th in the 60 it will gain 2 10ths up the top, all mine have gained a few MPH from it as well, its a must do mod there not like a falcon where the body can support the power they cant take more then a 2litre these things, that or a footy ball in the drivers side I did that for a few months, simple and stops the body diping on the launch mine kept poping the ball and is why I changed to the bar LOL

Has it had the top arm mounts reinforced? do that to. its very hard to save them after it rips the bolt thru the rails ive fixed so many its not funny, so many I make a repair kit for them  3mm angle stiched into the floor, and a 3mm plate on the other side of the rail so if it pulls the mount off the floor it cant pull the bolt thru the rail


The only thing better then a corty is a capri  





 

That's a fair bit the engine must be poking out the bonnet LOL

The twist will kill the body fix the issue straight up and it will not damage it that and it will 60 harder and if its gains 1 10th in the 60 it will gain 2 10ths up the top, all mine have gained a few MPH from it as well, its a must do mod there not like a falcon where the body can support the power they cant take more then a 2litre these things, that or a footy ball in the drivers side I did that for a few months, simple and stops the body diping on the launch mine kept poping the ball and is why I changed to the bar LOL

Has it had the top arm mounts reinforced? do that to. its very hard to save them after it rips the bolt thru the rails ive fixed so many its not funny, so many I make a repair kit for them  3mm angle stiched into the floor, and a 3mm plate on the other side of the rail so if it pulls the mount off the floor it cant pull the bolt thru the rail


The only thing better then a corty is a capri  





 

From the centre of the sump to the rack is 2 inches I will also add the factory crossflow sump in a late factory crossy Cortina is not the same as all Cortina sumps theres a pressed section to clear the rack you fit a stock sump theres less the a inch there

my blown car has spun alloy mounts and a bolted straight thru it. my last one was chained and ended up ripping the mount points off the block so its mounted so it will not move at all

webbers fit the engine bay fine if you don't run ramair pod style filters I run trumpets and they clear fine althow in a TE you need to mod the section the heaterbox sits on just a little tap sorts it out

as for twisting fit a antiroll bar it will also stop the chassis eating the power the engine makes mine went from 1.68 to 1.56 with this mod and I was still running 3.5 diff gears at that point so it boggied out of the hole for a stock corty rearend

 

14 psi with no intercooler means a disaster in waiting.... Only question is how big the mess will be. Just ask anyone who boosted up a stock VL turbs without a cooler.
 
Looks like they went to a lot of trouble to construct a second-rate system of cooling the charge. If you're going to have all that plumbing, a water-to-air setup would have been much more effective and reliable.

My last engine did the same thing "turbo did not let go but" and was down to 60 on 1 bank, funny it was number 3 as well, it was a broken compression rings and the skirt off the piston and is a common thing with a engine that was not tuned right or boost spiking as mine was, mine went past 25psi a few times and that's caused my broken piston/rings, mine had no real signs of damage till I pushed it out of the bore it had a fair amount of damage to the piston and rings on that cylinder I could have fitted a new piston and rings to it but removed it for another engine as mine was the cars matching number engine and I did not want to risk damaging that engine over another one

It does not have a bent exhaust valve? or blown the head gasket out? althow if it did the headgasket it would chug like a train even more so then a broken piston or would make a fair noise while the engine is running  

How much boost does it run? a non intercooled engine should not be over 8 psi a bit more can be had with the meth injection but id still not go past 12 at the most, and may be the issue its been boosted with no meth in it and that's caused the damage

If you in need of pistons and it still has cast 29cc ACL ones PM me I have a few new sets and a a fair few 2nd hand ones that I kept as there like new still in most sizes just in case you only need to only change 1 piston 
 

My last engine did the same thing "turbo did not let go but" and was down to 60 on 1 bank, funny it was number 3 as well, it was a broken compression rings and the skirt off the piston and is a common thing with a engine that was not tuned right or boost spiking as mine was, mine went past 25psi a few times and that's caused my broken piston/rings, mine had no real signs of damage till I pushed it out of the bore it had a fair amount of damage to the piston and rings on that cylinder I could have fitted a new piston and rings to it but removed it for another engine as mine was the cars matching number engine and I did not want to risk damaging that engine over another one

It does not have a bent exhaust valve? or blown the head gasket out? althow if it did the headgasket it would chug like a train even more so then a broken piston or would make a fair noise while the engine is running  

How much boost does it run? a non intercooled engine should not be over 8 psi a bit more can be had with the meth injection but id still not go past 12 at the most, and may be the issue its been boosted with no meth in it and that's caused the damage

If you in need of pistons and it still has cast 29cc ACL ones PM me I have a few new sets and a a fair few 2nd hand ones that I kept as there like new still in most sizes just in case you only need to only change 1 piston 
 

My last engine did the same thing "turbo did not let go but" and was down to 60 on 1 bank, funny it was number 3 as well, it was a broken compression rings and the skirt off the piston and is a common thing with a engine that was not tuned right or boost spiking as mine was, mine went past 25psi a few times and that's caused my broken piston/rings, mine had no real signs of damage till I pushed it out of the bore it had a fair amount of damage to the piston and rings on that cylinder I could have fitted a new piston and rings to it but removed it for another engine as mine was the cars matching number engine and I did not want to risk damaging that engine over another one

It does not have a bent exhaust valve? or blown the head gasket out? althow if it did the headgasket it would chug like a train even more so then a broken piston or would make a fair noise while the engine is running  

How much boost does it run? a non intercooled engine should not be over 8 psi a bit more can be had with the meth injection but id still not go past 12 at the most, and may be the issue its been boosted with no meth in it and that's caused the damage

If you in need of pistons and it still has cast 29cc ACL ones PM me I have a few new sets and a a fair few 2nd hand ones that I kept as there like new still in most sizes just in case you only need to only change 1 piston 
 

Joe sort of sounds like Bob from the local drag club, & who tunes my ute,
been building drag cars and racing since the early 70's, has worked on circuit cars, also works on boats.
 
Crossflow heads can flow over 0.550" it just takes work to get it right,
Me I was lazy, I just took my head to a CNC porter, also did it to test flow for when I build my race xflow.
Will be cool to see what Thor makes on the dyno & on the track, I like seeing more tuff xflows out there.

Dave......... I'm trying to do a cheap power upgrade. If you keep tempting me like that I will be broke in no time

We run that cam in chrises beacon I just run it without the inner spring it was a compcam 130seat 320open item I cant remember more info then that without looking, it worked out well

Its funny that was one cam we never gave a shit about stick it in run it in and changed the oil and the next moring off to the strip LOL and 2 years on its still alive you will like that stick it works good in even a basic engine just make sure you have 10 points of comp