SPACK

Okay so i had to go wayyyyyyyy back to 2006 to get this data. This if from when i mapped my stock sensor for calibration within my MS1 ECU. so this "Should" be the data for the stock x-fal temp sender.
Bucket of ice water, Room temp, and boiling water. Resistance in Ohm. 
Input Data    
; Temp, degC     Resistance
;           0.5           86650
;            19           26000
;          99.8            2130
You're welcome.

It's important to note that you can't simply test the sensors, you must also test if the ECU is supplying the sensors with the correct voltages. Also check the sensors all have good earths. For example, a bad engine earth will take out multiple engine sensors. and a bad ECU earth will potentially take out all of them.
 

Thanks guys, have written this down, and will pass on 2 morrow...

Thanks guys, have written this down, and will pass on 2 morrow...

Jack. these dont have oxy sensors. 
Temp sensor is something I also replaced when i was chasing my fault, and although it did not fix the issue, it DID have a smoother transition from cold start to normal idle, rather than going from one to the other like someone flicked a switch. so yes temp sensor could be the issue. 
however, i do not believe what your mechanic is saying. like i said in my previous post in here, i had a similar issue which after spending lots of money, and time replacing parts and sensors, ended up being the distributor. it would start, idle, but didnt like being under load. 
there is 1 other thing i dont think has been mentioned in here. 
the cold start solenoid/bypass valve which is bolted to the back of the rocker cover. unplug it when its both on cold start, and try driving it, then again when its at normal running temp, and see if it helps. again I had to replace mine because it would cause issues. 

the AFM/vane meter, there is a 6mm (i think) allen key bolt, which you turn to tune it. if you go too far one way, it will over fuel and cause the very issue you are having. turn it the other way it will run lean. between that, and you idle speed screw on the front of the throttle body, you should be able to fix the issue IF there is nothing else wrong with the system. 

Need an obd 1 code reader... or see what codes the computer is throwing up, it will tell you of you ask the right way....
Someone here close enough with one to hook one up?
If not they are $300.
Im thinking temp sender or mass air flow meter is faulty... one controls fuel based on water temp ... other on air flow..... maybe even the oxygen sensor in the exhaust manifold... Its sensor based
Be most likely culprits.

Will have a gander in me workshop manual for xf. Which... by the way is a Nissan XFN ute workshop manual.
Ford XF workshop manuals you cant buy new.

Jack.

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when you say mechanic checked temp sender, there are 2, one is for the guage in the dash, and one is a switch .i assume much bigger, no idea what they do when unplugged, but it's been mentioned by crazy in earlier posts.
i would say your issue will have been covered in this post, double check that nothing's been overlooked or checked wrongly

The bosch temp senders are about $20...
I'd replace it and see. There's hardly any electronics in those engine bays.
 

Later model cars they are different as the autos became electronic, but in a XF they were still completely hydraulic operated. The gearbox knows how much throttle is open by the kickdown cable, and the engine doesn't care what gear the box is in.

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nope. the auto trans in these are "dumb" in the sense they have zero input from the ECU 

Thanks PANKO....Trouble is at least finding another dissy to try...but its worth a shot..

Doesn't matter what gearbox for the computer.
@Panko swapped his XF Ghia from auto to manual years ago and still has the original auto computer. I'm not even sure there was a different computer for gearbox for EFI. There is for EST but that's completely different


But, there ARE different computers for leaded fuel (pre 86, black lid airbox), and unleaded (post 86, blue lid airbox)

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could it be your dizzy? 

i had a similar issue that took me forever to find. i replaced ignition module, fuel pump, fuel injectors, filters, tried another ECU, everything seemed to help but never stopped it. I finally tried another dizzy, and bam it was gone. 
sent mine in for rebuild, and the hall effects sensor had shit itself inside the dizzy. 

A lot of the wiring, done by the restorers, putting the ENGINE back in was wrong..IE, The negative earth was wired to a positive output, the EEC-1V WIRES TO THE DISSY WAS just about to drop off, wires was S-T-R-E-T-C-H-E-D to fit, had to be re wired properly, the TIMING was RETARDED, 6 DEGREES btdc..The mechanic will let me know if the new AFM i have given him, is the problem on tuesday...

A lot of the wiring, done by the restorers, putting the ENGINE back in was wrong..IE, The negative earth was wired to a positive output, the EEC-1V WIRES TO THE DISSY WAS just about to drop off, wires was S-T-R-E-T-C-H-E-D to fit, had to be re wired properly, the TIMING was RETARDED, 6 DEGREES btdc..The mechanic will let me know if the new AFM i have given him, is the problem on tuesday...

A lot of the wiring, done by the restorers, putting the ENGINE back in was wrong..IE, The negative earth was wired to a positive output, the EEC-1V WIRES TO THE DISSY WAS just about to drop off, wires was S-T-R-E-T-C-H-E-D to fit, had to be re wired properly, the TIMING was RETARDED, 6 DEGREES btdc..The mechanic will let me know if the new AFM i have given him, is the problem on tuesday...

When the mechanic got the car and managed to start it, it was running so rich the whole of the shop was awash in black sooty smoke, all the plugs had to be changed as they were completely black.

Apparently that and the AFM, were the only 2 problems that use to go wrong with these cars....as I am told..

Afm has like a trap door inside that can jam shut. Have alook at that.
Have u checked spark. Have they actually confirmed it getting to much fuel? (Wet plugs). People love to jump to conclusions and miss the basics. 

WOW, well that was a LONG read,..but a good one, and like i was told by my MECHANIC, whom asked a MECHANIC up the sunshine coast that actually modifies these engines A LONG WAY, only 2 things go WRONG with them, the ECT and the AFM...Wish I could print it out and show the mechanic. Would love to do a self test and see what POPS up...CHEERS and thanks for the INFO.

Scored this off my old man from his Ford days. Some good info in here. Related to the EEC IV (Electronic Engine Control 4) used in XF Falcon/Fairmont/ZL Fairlane/FE LTD. Its focused on the first (leaded) version but generally applies to the unleaded version too.
 
 
Pages 9 & 10 refer to a manual gear switch - I believe this refers only to the four speeds as the T5 wasn't introduced until unleaded models, and the 4.1 never received the "single rail" 5 speed.
 
 
 
 

Maybe have a read of this?


http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/7027-Ford-Registered-Technician-Bulletin---EEC-IV-(XF)

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When my temperature sensor shut itself I took it to 3 mechanics before one of them was switched on enough to replace the coolant temp sensor and fix the car. This was back in the day when I was a young fella and had no idea what I was doing.

how cold does the engine run? if it has no thermostat, a stuck open thermostat or locked up clutch fan it might be running rich for that reason?

I'd be thinking it has to be related to the ECU or the AFM.

The XF EFI system needs info from the AFM to run properly, and definitely to drive.
From memory they will idle with AFM unplugged but not drive with load.

Could be a wiring issue between the AFM and ECU?

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