SPACK

The XF is a manual, T5, I was hoping to just put my XF BELL HOUSING on to the E SERIES GEAR BOX and put it into the car..use my gear stick on it..its UNLEADED, SO THE CABLE RUNS TO THE PASSENGER SIDE..

I have the chance/option to buy an E-SERIES gearbox, A T5, I want to put in my XF, do I just change BELL HOUSINGS and fit, nothing else to do..it all lines up?

The 2.77 is NOT lame..however i am having to go through the gears to fast , the ratio is too low, I have an AU /several actually, with around the same HP, and the ratios being 3.23/3.45 are better suited to the HP..I want the XF to run out longer as the engine runs out near 5400 RPM, I want the diff to run out longer..

ok thanks..might have to change the whole thing..

Would like to change the diff ratio in my XF, I believe its a 2.77..just to low for me, Is there a 3.23 diff centre, that I can put straight in...

Hi Spack,
 
https://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/falcon_XE_technical_specifications
 
Apparently some XE 4.1L diff centres were 3.23:1, according to this website. You'll have to go looking for a needle in a haystack I imagine.

Fuel pump, would be a start, change the fuel filter, clean the injectors..

When I first registered my wagon it had the stock manifold and engine pipe/cat, with only one muffler.
Soon gave it a set of headers afterwards, and then a few years later had to put a new cat in to have it re-registered, also put in a full OE wagon exhaust - 3 mufflers, can't say any of it seemed to make any difference to performance

My old man's pre-cat XF EFI took extractors and 2.5" system without issue. I don't think he even bothered tuning it. You could drastically alter the mixture with the bypass screw in the vane meter. Maybe yours was already running close to lean and got pushed too lean without that subtle back pressure that the cat gives. It really isn't that much in reality, it might be worth 5 HP in extreme cases.
 
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It’s probably more of a case that the cat brought the horrendous efi set up back closer to original parameters and hit an air fuel ratio that the engine liked. 
 

was there a hollowed out cat there or a straight pipe?
 
i was told My the exhaust joint a hollowed out cat would not perform as well as a functioning cat...
 
when i fitted a 2.5" exhaust on My XF over the 2.25" exhaust it was gutless, this was later TUNED back and for better top end power also(who knows if it would have made any difference if tuned properly with the 2.25" exhaust anyway)
 someone like @ando76 would be able to explain i would think, 
 
(and a modified, straight pipe through the cat = $10,000 EPA fine for the owner and the business who did it)
 

Updated the original post with clearer, new scans

Can anyone (preferably a computer user) tell me if the below image is better than the first one in the original post?
Got a different scanner and I think it does better quality but very hard to tell on the phone/Tapatalk.

If it's a decent difference I can rescan and re-upload.

Precision International, and their website is quite comprehensive. They deliver promptly too.

Maybe it's just that long pushrods don't like rpm, whether you're using stock springs or stiffer.

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Precision sells 3/8” diameter Trend pushrods in whatever length you want, but they're not cheap at 18 bucks each.

You often have to go with fatter pushrods when they're as long as those on a crossy.

Are you running stock valvesprings? If so, you might be getting valve bounce, which will bend pushrods in no time.

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He has driven it, but obviously not for that length of time...ill be talking to him tomorrow..

He has driven it, but obviously not for that length of time...ill be talking to him tomorrow..

i'd be asking gearbox dude to drive the car, or at least be in it when it's happening. wonder if it could be clutch related, or universal joint etc
 

Lol... Nope, not much to add except pilot race in the back of the crank could be buggered. This should always be done with a new clutch.

Here are some pointers though:

A dud throwout will make a noise no matter what gear it's in. It can also make a ticking noise with the foot off the clutch. As for being rpm-sensitive, all I can suggest is that maybe the throwout has lost its grease and is dry chattering.

Pocket bearing will make a noise in all gears except 4th, with 3rd being the loudest. However it will quiet down when you feather the throttle or change gears.

It seems like the noise is dependent on a difference in engine/input shaft rpm.

Without hearing/seeing it for ourselves, it's very hard to diagnose.



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if you can have it running while the rear wheels are safely off the ground you can probably isolate it while at home(or on a hoist) check it's not the diff also.
usually gearbox bearings are pretty constant when rooted. 
could be the thrust race if it's only heard pushing the clutch in? could possibly test this when the engine is running even in neutral, rev the car up.. no noise, press the clutch in(still in neutral) rev it up, does the noise appear.. if so, thrust race possible. ah, unless i've got it backwards one could be spigot bearing , other could be thrust race.. @Thom or @gerg to the rescue.. My brain is fried today already
 

If your car "handles like a boat", there are many factors that could be at play.

Tyre profile, sway bar, spring rate, bush material and condition, alignment settings all play a part.

First thing you do on a Falcon is go to a V8-sized sway bar. Easy job that takes an hour max even for an amateur.

Shocks don't affect the handling once the suspension has finished responding to steering and braking input. They only affect the amount of "bite" or "attack" that it has on initial turn-in and braking. Of course this is on a smooth road.

If you increase spring rate, you must increase shock rate accordingly. How many lowered ricers do you see bobbing along what seems to be a fairly flat road, with what would be a nightmare of a ride. This is from cutting springs or installing much higher rate springs on standard shocks.

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is it lowered? if it has no suspension travel it wont handle. 

if its only on the screen, you could have the black vacuum hose disconnected. it comes out of the firewall opposite the glove box and goes to the inlet manifold, also behind the glovebox there is a multi hose plug, i have had the black hose pull out of it also. (superglue it in, without blocking it with glue)
 

that screen default can also mean a hose has come off down in the handbrake /firewall area also. on the heater box..(barely, but accessible from reaching near the brake pedal)

it should work without the vacuum canister(if plugged off not to leak) will just affect air vents to go to screen when going up a hill possibly?
 
take a pic of what lines you have, they don't need much, 
green goes to heater tap, black goes to manifold vacuum, orange i never figured out but @Panko has an EFI XF that might be able to help