CHESTNUTXE

Thanks for the advice so far guys, will have a proper look for cracks and spring packers when I get it in the air. @SPArKy_Dave here's some pictures, they're a bit shit but it's the best I can do until I get the car lifted up. You should be able to make out the spring, bumpstop and how it rides.
 

 

 

Can u post a picture of the spring, and height that the vehicle is sitting at?
Also the bump-stop clearance.
 
That will let us help u more.

sometimes people put spring packers on top of the very low sets of springs just to raise them 5 or 10mm,the recess inside the tower sought of guides and holds the top of the spring into a comfortable position,but add a packer or nolathane spacer and it leaves the top of the spriing out of the groove so to say,and i hads this happen on my xf ute when i raised the low kings a cm and put bluepro spacers,the packer and spring moved somehow into an akward position and compleatly stuffed the spacer,just buy the right springs guys.yes like dean said low or super or ultra low will be able to turn and fix up but std i doubt it ,they are so high .

pedal fitted

ok 1 hyd pedal box ready to use

The original plastic piece is perfect length  for the brake pedal on the left,its just to the right of the pedal that you need to shim with washers or a small piece of plastic tube provided in the kit ,about 1cm but can very a few mm,i still need to shim about 1 or 2 mm to push it all together tighter,if thats what you mean kiwi-e.

do a few dummy fits to alighn the brake pedal with the sensor,you will also need to shim about 1cm with the plastic provided in the kit as the new rod provided is not the same as the one that comes out,kit comes with new hyd pedal,bushes,c clips,washes,and new adjustable master cyl rod which i strongly reckon you should use after last time a struggled for days trying to work out why i am getting no disengauagement of clutch because the rod was to short ,after fitting the adj rod it worked 1st go,althou your pedal might be sticking out a tad further than usual but we can live with that.,here is a pic of the new pedal end poking out ready to install the pedal note the old small rod that has been cut off otherwise the new one wont fit.

should look something like this but must protrude a bit more because the c clip will need to be outside the frame to secure it.

mark the new rod and grind a slot into it,should only take a few mins until it fits snug

I have been wanting to do this for a while and got around to it today,i have a xf manual pedal box that suits a cable clutch and will be converting it to hyd set up,i have the pedal box on the floor and the new kit next to it.

Take the old clutch pedal off and the small rod is exposed,this will need cutting off as close as possible to the frame.

Then unclip the longer rod and tap with a hammer and the rod slides out ,keep in order the way it came out,note the right side is slotted .The new rod will need to be put on a bench grinder to make a slot .

first unclip this off the clutch pedal.

sometimes people put spring packers on top of the very low sets of springs just to raise them 5 or 10mm,the recess inside the tower sought of guides and holds the top of the spring into a comfortable position,but add a packer or nolathane spacer and it leaves the top of the spriing out of the groove so to say,and i hads this happen on my xf ute when i raised the low kings a cm and put bluepro spacers,the packer and spring moved somehow into an akward position and compleatly stuffed the spacer,just buy the right springs guys.yes like dean said low or super or ultra low will be able to turn and fix up but std i doubt it ,they are so high .

ok, so I got the handle sorted, it now opens like a brand new door , but not fixed in the way you suggested.
the metal rod was slightly bent, so I slightly unbent it, and it made no difference, inside handle worked perfectly still, outside handle no go, I tried to make it as straight as i could, and it still didn't help.
So i googled something like 'falcon door mech adjustment' or similar, and a video popped up with a guy showing the same issue, he took the latch mech off and bodged a  screw to be glued right next to the metal pin to make the pin 'bigger', so i gave this a go using knead it, and it worked, its perfect.
The passenger rear door was similar , as in awkward to open, but if you were gentle, it always opened, so i did the same thing on it just to see if it wasn't a fluke figuring that its only Knead it so as strong as it is, you can always knock it off if its a fail so nothing to lose, and it worked, with almost no effort, both rear doors are opening perfectly.
Might be worth a try if anyones having door opening issues.
happy days.

yup i had same problem,listen to obi wan you must,undo the striker wd40 the shit out of it,manualy use a screwdriver to strike it back and forwards a few times then spray more wd40 ,it wont be the door handle,but like dean said its the 15cm metal rod that needs flattening out or bending to take up the slack ,common problem is handle is pulled up and door wont open cause the rod needs that little bit extra pull to enguage the hook in the striker ,make sure child safety lock is off too,mine now works 100% from not working at all,15min job,once you have done it ,its easy and can fix all of them if needed.

I've had to bend the rods, and reposition the pivot before to take up some slack on rear doors. i suspect due to non genuine handle ? 
 
 

ghias had a longer bolt

x file or not ? the bolt that holds the spare wheel in a std GL is smaller in length than say a xe ghia ,my 14x7 hotwire does fit in the well,but the bolt wont reach even tho the wheel is in the correct way with it facing backwards to give more room on the offset of the mag to fit,but wait a 15x7 snowflake fits ? or is it the offset of the snowflake that lets the std bolt go in all the way ? really moulder your bolt is that long.

Yes something like that I read somewhere,maybe I will try that when I do springs on my car.also what if the ef has the balancer on the shaft ?

the one in the car atm is the 83 revised one ,it does work but ratio is a bit out,i knew this from the begining and just took a chance with it,i reckon the new one will solve all issues,and start in park like it used too,should take all of 10 mins to install it.

Now this one looks spot on to the factory diagram,note how it keeps it straight NESS and bends look the same as the 79 to 82 one in the picture a few posts back.

the one in the car atm is the 83 revised one ,it does work but ratio is a bit out,i knew this from the begining and just took a chance with it,i reckon the new one will solve all issues,and start in park like it used too,should take all of 10 mins to install it.

Now this one looks spot on to the factory diagram,note how it keeps it straight NESS and bends look the same as the 79 to 82 one in the picture a few posts back.

Just get a 450 quick fool.