wagoon

Don't ya just love origin lol. Still weeks away

Nah it's simple dude, they don't think you can handle the full awesomeness of queensland so they only allow weaker versions for people living in lesser.....sorry southern states :lol:

Oh yes it is scummy in QLD isn't it,sorry I forgot. 1 up side is you get full strength GN's unlike the mid strength which as it turns out is only served down here as CUB see it as competition to there other beer Carlton Dry and I guessing QLDer's don't get or drink Dry ? 
 
I fail to see why it would be competition when you could have 2 decent beers,well one out standing beer and another OK beer.

Sorry brah but everywhere around where I live is a scummy area and I would have to go to schools and steal shitty beat up crap from kids to get the bearing I need, that's going a little to far in my books.....just a little . Instead I went to a local bike shop that sells parts to all the local bogans for their crappy bikes and I paid $9.95 for a complete bearing kit which came with 2 bearing cups. This now means I can repair mine and have one as a backup.
 
Funnily enough the bike shop dude must have thought he was onto a winner as he made sure I knew he had a heap of stock of these bearing kitsa as I'm guessing he thinks I will be in over and over again to buy the bearing kit.

Sorry brah but everywhere around where I live is a scummy area and I would have to go to schools and steal shitty beat up crap from kids to get the bearing I need, that's going a little to far in my books.....just a little . Instead I went to a local bike shop that sells parts to all the local bogans for their crappy bikes and I paid $9.95 for a complete bearing kit which came with 2 bearing cups. This now means I can repair mine and have one as a backup.
 
Funnily enough the bike shop dude must have thought he was onto a winner as he made sure I knew he had a heap of stock of these bearing kitsa as I'm guessing he thinks I will be in over and over again to buy the bearing kit.

Case in point. Right now I am celebrating (several whiskey's down and several to go...maybe this belongs in the drunk thread???) as I have not long returned from Tafe where I handed in my final assignment for "Apply Mathematical Techniques in manufacturing, engineering or related environments". This shit covered Linear equations, Quadratic equations along with Trigonometry, Geometry and Algebra. Even the Tafe teacher said he was glad he wasn't the one doing this shit...WTF!!!
Once I have consumed several more whiskey's I will be heading off to the shed to play with my gear stick and gently slide it into the hole that I have lubed up nicely to see how well it fits
 
Have a good night all cause fuck knows I will

i had the shifter shaft machined a bees dick and new bushes made to suit and a new saddle bush and i would guess it must have been how new ones felt. was awesome..
it used to feel like it was in nuetral when it was in gear, even with the saddle bush replaced... it was that bad.
haven't seen one that bad since,
have had a few different types but the best way i found to fix the issue is to fit a T5 box...
 
PS, while under the car doing the shifter housing, check it has oil in it.. the selector shaft seal is common to get chopped out and even though its up high can drain the box to empty in a short time(surprisingly they work for ages with no oil in them)

Frying tyres is fun hehe
I have no traction in my car but fuck it's fun trying to find some lol
 
 
Cortina for life

There isn't much to those shifter housings.
An alloy housing that mounts with 3 bolts, a couple of bushings that wear in the housing that the shaft runs in,reverse switch and a welsh plug at the back..
 
Doubt that anything is damaged.
You could go under the car punch out the roll pin joining the selector shafts and remove the 3 mounting bolts and work on it on the bench. .would be much easier to see what's happening especially with the grease out and welsh plug removed

Case in point. Right now I am celebrating (several whiskey's down and several to go...maybe this belongs in the drunk thread???) as I have not long returned from Tafe where I handed in my final assignment for "Apply Mathematical Techniques in manufacturing, engineering or related environments". This shit covered Linear equations, Quadratic equations along with Trigonometry, Geometry and Algebra. Even the Tafe teacher said he was glad he wasn't the one doing this shit...WTF!!!
Once I have consumed several more whiskey's I will be heading off to the shed to play with my gear stick and gently slide it into the hole that I have lubed up nicely to see how well it fits
 
Have a good night all cause fuck knows I will

Case in point. Right now I am celebrating (several whiskey's down and several to go...maybe this belongs in the drunk thread???) as I have not long returned from Tafe where I handed in my final assignment for "Apply Mathematical Techniques in manufacturing, engineering or related environments". This shit covered Linear equations, Quadratic equations along with Trigonometry, Geometry and Algebra. Even the Tafe teacher said he was glad he wasn't the one doing this shit...WTF!!!
Once I have consumed several more whiskey's I will be heading off to the shed to play with my gear stick and gently slide it into the hole that I have lubed up nicely to see how well it fits
 
Have a good night all cause fuck knows I will

I went and had a look at that bodgy thread and thought it was a problem solving thread....most of the time.
And yes its genuis cause it will fix my problem. I didnt want to put the plastic nut in there but also didnt want to destroy a factory intact shifter. So yes you have helped me. But dont worry alcohol will assist from now on.

I went and had a look at that bodgy thread and thought it was a problem solving thread....most of the time.
And yes its genuis cause it will fix my problem. I didnt want to put the plastic nut in there but also didnt want to destroy a factory intact shifter. So yes you have helped me. But dont worry alcohol will assist from now on.

I went and had a look at that bodgy thread and thought it was a problem solving thread....most of the time.
And yes its genuis cause it will fix my problem. I didnt want to put the plastic nut in there but also didnt want to destroy a factory intact shifter. So yes you have helped me. But dont worry alcohol will assist from now on.

First off yes he is...forgot all about that bodge thread. Legend Dean...the outta the box champion.
 
Now whatever the bottom bracket size is on a normal ball bearing crank set. The later sealed units do not work for obvious reasons.
 
I cut the metal tabs off as they were mc shagged and fitted the assembly over the top.
 
No not genius cos it only fixed my problem not yours. And I prefer to hear alcohol assisted thank you    

well, i bought a car with this arrangement also once..
and i have put screws in from the side(dont put them in too long or it will lock the ball up inside... i know this due to reasons..)

Holy crap...yep thats it LOL. Funny best it ever worked ay.

its still on the interwebs in the dodgy bodge thread.. i screen printed it for you

Nah man my photobucket acc has been ass for mth's. So the bearing cup sits over the top of where the nut goe's tab welded 180 degree's apart and muffler u bolt comes up from underneath and goe's thru retaining tabs to hold show in place. I know if it was too tight I could get reverse so it needs tension but not too much. 

Swap the alloy nut over to the known stick and repeat bro.
 
The unit with the alloy nut looks like a Corty (or early XR style) unit which I think do not interchange as the Corty has a different extension housing and the base accepts a different saddle or as the picture implies the knuckle and receiver could be "too" different to interchange. 
 
P.S There are different coloured saddles to use on each unit aswell and on my XF I used a brown unit.I also found the very best that car ever shifted was with a BMX crank case bearing cup with 2 tabs welded to it and a muffler U bolt to hold it all in place. I put a alloy nut on the stick and still pulled it out of the box a couple of times,never happened with the back yard clamp.    

Okay, so I'm finally back from business trip, and got a break in my UNI timetable to post some stuff up.
 
I want to say thankyou to all of you for your help, its been just a world of knowledge and awesomness. I haven't driven the car in a long time, and won't be driving it for a while becuase future upgrades are calling hahaha
 
I do have one question in regards to ignition. Now I have about 15 degrees of idle timing, is this too much?? The reason I am asking is because, on some start ups, I'll pump the pedal and it will crank and start, but on others i'll pump it, and I will be cranking and cranking and cranking, and then pump agagin and it might cough.
 
In other words, sometimes it starts great, sometimes its a dog to start. Any advice??
 
I'm going to make another thread in regards to engine problems, upgrades, help, etc.
 
But I'll just finish this post of with telling you guys what happened last. So like I said, I dialled the timing way advance, and created a curve, now the car runs great, I put the 58 jets in it, and the spark plugs are the perfect "tan" colour, and its awesome. So by the end of it, the car was running, running really well, and was a load of fun, its not the fastest car by any means, nor the fastest car I've driven, but with these older cars, its like it doesn't matter. Even after years of ripping my hair out and defeat, when it comes together and works, its just an amazing feeling, so thankyou all for you help with my transition from points ignition to electronic, its made the car so much better and just more amazing, it feels reliable and not like a liability.

I have just wired my xe over christmas with msd 6al2. I have the same instructions as you and it does not say anything regarding a fuse. I also got on here and asked the fuse question and went the way Greg suggested, I used a blade type fuse in either a 10 or 15AMP capacity. I then fused the trigger wire going to the dizzy with a 2.5AMP fuse as that's what I had.
 
Judgetread has it right with the way to set the timing. I like to think of the 6al2 programmable as a retard box, you set your dizzy to highest timing you want then use the msd to pull timing out.

cheers boys, the reasoning behind the 32 degrees was cause i didn't think i would need any less than 7 degrees advanced so the 32 was just so i get the full spectrum of adjustability from the MSD, but yeh i guess i could dial in the crank timing at maybe 28 but restrain myself to something lower like 23 give take after testing will leaving a few degrees of headroom if i need for any reason. 
 
once again broken wheel i understand the reasoning behind the alloy head thats why i have one here, I'm just doing these bits as time and funds permit, MSD is what i want to do in the immediate feature and once thats done the alloy head will start getting attention

Yep sounds spot on to me cheers Rob. Might need to get my hands on an adjustable timing light to try and dial the timing at the crank cause i can only see up to the 14 degrees on the tab. Thinking of putting around 32 or so at the crank so min. timing should be 7 degrees after MSD retard. Keen to try your theory with big advance on idle and a bit (I might start my curve at around 1000rpm cause my idle is around 800-850rpm quite a bit lower than yours) and see how the thing behaves. Exciting times ahead
 
Also can't forget to throw on the hardened dizzy gear on the new dizzy
 
Michael