XF001

It will be a weekend driver wagoon along with my white xf sedan. It isn't registered atm and I'm cleaning out the shed so I can put it in there and work on it. Once I can figure out what they're for I can start removing them all and replace all the dash plastics that are now fucked.
 
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If you are decent at wiring I would just cut it off at the connectors and pull the lot out. Imagine chasing a fault in there. After burning my first car's loom with bad wiring, I made sure I did the right thing second time round and put a hotrod loom in.
Best get a new interior from some rusted out thing too. More holes than religious dogma in there

Please rip all that shit out immediately before it catches fire. Seriously that is just fucked. Take Ryan up on his offer and I'll even install all the new stuff free of charge, just to see that crap gone.

Far out he was trying to turn it into KITT from Knight Rider

Ok cool. Since your close enough to me I have an XF ute sitting in my yard that you are welcome to if you need, I can send particular pics if you like. I do have the plastic trim that is under the dash that goes under the steering column as well as a glovebox if you need one. Let me know what you need and I can see if I have it.

Oh didn't realise how pissy the standard ones are.

That was actually an aftermarket upgrade made for BA-BF which is significantly larger than the factory unit, supposedly efficient up to 300rwkw on an xr6t. Not massive by any means with a core size of 450x305x75. The factory XR6 ones are 175mm high; 370mm wide, 55mm thick. You would gain power in an xr6 just from removing the restriction and would sustain power levels longer through better cooling efficiency.

As a guide, XPT's Supra made 192 RWkW and 13.8 on the quarter using an XR6T cooler. If this is the extent of performance you're after, then it will do.

Pretty much exactly for the reasons Ando gave, if you ever wanted to up the ante you would have plenty of headroom to do it. I would only use one on a small engine if I had absolutely zero funds and it was given to me. Intercooler mounting and piping can be annoying in some cars and believe me it's a job you only want to do once.

Thing is Ryan for the price you pay for the standard xr6 cooler you limit yourself to power potential. The aftermarket coolers are cost effective and leave head room for later for similar cost. I got a good one for naf all 2nd hand brand new never used. It just means your not limited like the factory cooler which gets compromised pretty quickly. That's why the xr6 boys remove them - oh and probably for looks to.

I just learnt plenty in the above posts.
So in your opinion XPT the xr6t cooler would be no good for a mild setup? I know they are not perfect but thought that it would be ok to use as a cooler for a reliable mild street crossflow setup.

I think a plan would be :
Strip down & rebuild the engine, check injector size if they're anything under 440cc I'd upgrade them. Bosch Green are 440cc and good for around 400hp at the crank in a 6cyl, or for more headroom Siemens Deka 600cc both are high impedance injectors. Both are quite affordable.
Check fuel pump setup & type. Walbro gss342 are an in tank pump rated to 255lph and would be an easy replacement for a factory unit, or for an external inline pump with a surge tank the good old Bosch 044 are tried and true. A 1:1 fuel pressure Reg ( reputable brand) if not already fitted. If you have a rising rate reg I'd get rid of it.
 
Engine management your wallet is the limit. These are fairly simple engines so don't need all the features In the world to run them. For a basic setup with the TFI dizzy you could run something like a Haltech Platinum Sprint 500 which have 4 ignition drivers and 4 injector drivers as does Microtech LT10C, You would use 3 of the injector outputs to run 3 pairs of injectors in group fire/semi sequential mode and 1 ignition output to go to the tfi module/dizzy/coil and I'd run an MSD 6A CDI ignition box. If you were feeling adventurous you could run ef/au coil packs which run 3x twin pole coils in wasted spark mode (fires 2 cylinders at once one on compression, one on exhaust). This would use 3 ignition drivers and would require a crank trigger and an at least 3 channel igniter box. You could of course go for higher model ecus like the Sport 1000 Ando mentioned with more injector/ignition outputs and run full sequential and 6 individual coils but I don't think it's needed and price grows a lot.
 
The Haltech has the advantage of closed loop O2 control and and at much the same price probably gets the nod. Both of those ecus runs internal MAP sensor so you can do away with the crappy vane afm. You could use an extra ecu output to control boost with addition of a solenoid.
 
A generic 600x300x75 tube and fin air to air intercooler will do the job and give little pressure drop. That's the only thing I'll disagree with wagoon about, the XR6T intercooler is ok for standard but will give significant pressure drop and are fairly small in size. With aftermarket intercoolers so cheap you'd be mad not to go for one. Some 2.5 mild steel mandrel bent tube along with some silicone joiners and clamps will do the trick for piping. Add a BOV for turbo longevity.
 
Like Ando says there are things like the Megasquirt which are a good thing by all reports but have nowhere near the support. The money you save buying might be spent in time having the tuner learn the software.
 
These are just my ideas and believe me I know money doesn't grow on trees.

Also, looking at photos of other turbo builds, there engine bays seem to be clutter free, unlike mine.
 
 
 
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At the moment it is running 3 thermos and an electric water pump for cooling as well as the methanol and dry ice set up PRO250. I have read on other builds that people are running intercoolers. Is this a better option than the methanol and dry ice? Bear in mind that I want a reliable street car that won't cause me grief. From what I have been able to find out about the history of this car, the existing system has been nothing but trouble.
 
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It really sounds like they went about the built backwards. Its sounds like they either put the stuff in the car just so they could say they have a dry ice cooler or meth injection. Or the scarier reason was the meth injection and dry ice setup was their fix for the problem that were arising from running the car. Either way none of that shit is needed unless you are really pushing the boundaries of performance in a full drag setup, even then there are much better ways to go about things.
 
If you ran an xr6 turbo intercooler (small in size so doesn't have to fill the entire front of the car, black in colour for the stealth look) from a BA falcon you could do away with the meth injection, dry ice cooler (sorry but that is not a very efficient dry ice cooler as pointed out above) and one thermo (hoping there is a twin thermo on engine side and one on front side of radiator) That for a start will get rid of a bit of shit sitting in your bay.
 
I would pull the engine from the bay and inspect that, and while the engine is out you can have a really good look around the bay and see whats there and what is really needed as I'm guess half the shit in the bay is either pointless or can be done much better with far less shit sitting in the bay. As a bonus you can sell all the worthless shit and get some cash for anything that does need doing.
 
Lastly the computer and ignition are really important items in an injected turbo engine so if that is standard that maybe one of the biggest issues with the way the car ran.

Things I know about boost:
 
A magical snail whistles and makes your car go faster.

FYI you could run E85 and water injection in leiu of an air to air if you were clued up enough. I know of a guy that has done 3 LS1 single turbo setups that have used that system to make 600hp. But he always had packaging issues and thats why he did it.
Anyway, back on topic. I'd be starting that wiring from scratch, talk about a fire hazard

All the stick on shit is being removed matt_lamb_160 including all the shit lights inside the car. Half the dash will have to be replaced and painted to get it up to scratch.
The guy who built it went batshit with body moulding and turbo badges all over it. Most of that is gone now.
The wiring is an abomination

 
 
 
 
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Shit that makes my crappy wiring jobs look professional.

I'll be down that way in February if you need a hand.  I can recommend a good machine shop down your way that wont rip your arms and legs off.  I'm in Cairns and I build these things for a living and I send all my machining down to them in Brisbane.  They are just brilliant.  They have machined a few tough x-flows for members on this forum.

Engine out and start again.  If it has done a ring or ring land, then all that metal has to go somewhere.  Straight into the oil pump where it turns it into a concrete mixer and fecks the pump.
 
If it were me I would be doing a full pull down and inspect.  You need to know for sure what is going in there.  At least that way you can start again with a fresh motor.
 
They are a relatively simple motor to pull down and put back together for someone with a decent amount of experience.
 
I'm with all the others on the 'cooling' system and those stock manifolds being ordinary for distribution.  Plenty of people on here willing to help you out if you get stuck.

Looks like plenty of money has been spent on the outside of the engine, but sounds like they were short cutting the inside of the engine. Depending on how far/much power you want from the car is how far you "need" to go. But since the head needs to come off anyway as either it's a valve or rings by all accounts you might as well flip the engine and pull a bearing for inspection. If you have limited info on what actually happened/what caused the issue/what the actual symptoms were your best to have a poke around and inspect what's there then make you decisions on what to do based on what you find.

I remember this car when it was first done. Glad someone bought it (although I hate all the stick on shit). Good luck with it

My last engine did the same thing "turbo did not let go but" and was down to 60 on 1 bank, funny it was number 3 as well, it was a broken compression rings and the skirt off the piston and is a common thing with a engine that was not tuned right or boost spiking as mine was, mine went past 25psi a few times and that's caused my broken piston/rings, mine had no real signs of damage till I pushed it out of the bore it had a fair amount of damage to the piston and rings on that cylinder I could have fitted a new piston and rings to it but removed it for another engine as mine was the cars matching number engine and I did not want to risk damaging that engine over another one

It does not have a bent exhaust valve? or blown the head gasket out? althow if it did the headgasket it would chug like a train even more so then a broken piston or would make a fair noise while the engine is running  

How much boost does it run? a non intercooled engine should not be over 8 psi a bit more can be had with the meth injection but id still not go past 12 at the most, and may be the issue its been boosted with no meth in it and that's caused the damage

If you in need of pistons and it still has cast 29cc ACL ones PM me I have a few new sets and a a fair few 2nd hand ones that I kept as there like new still in most sizes just in case you only need to only change 1 piston 
 

Dry ice is drag-only. Methanol would have been in lieu of an intercooler (normally a water/meth mix 70/30). If it ran out of methanol, it could have detonated but blowing the turbo? That takes talent!
 
Yeah thick engine oil like a 20w/60, or use 15w40 with some Vaseline mixed into a gooey paste. Do NOT use gear oil.