Fingers

That is definitely worth a try.
Then
Turn off the gas at the tank, and try to start it 2 or 3 times to purge gas from the lines.
There is a drain plug under the converter. It's a brass plug from memory, maybe 10mm.
Drain any crap from it.
There is the solenoid on top of the converter.
Undo the electrical plug, and the small bolt, sit it all aside.
There is a brass piece the solenoid attaches to that screws into the housing, maybe a 13 or 14 mm spanner required, and a pair of pointy nosed pliers.
Carefully remove the screw on piece, and the plunger and spring below it.
Be careful as this can fly apart as it is being disassembled.
Below this is a jet, which can be removed with a flat screwdriver.
Clean everything well with Carby cleaner, including spraying into where the jet screws in.
Reassemble, including the drain plug.
Open the tank valve, and cycle the key, but don't start.
Check for leaks with a mixture of dishwashing liquid and water squirted over the fittings etc. and cycle the key a couple more times.
If there are no leaks, go ahead and start.
 
If you are not confident, is probably better to get someone who is experienced with LPG
 
 

That is definitely worth a try.
Then
Turn off the gas at the tank, and try to start it 2 or 3 times to purge gas from the lines.
There is a drain plug under the converter. It's a brass plug from memory, maybe 10mm.
Drain any crap from it.
There is the solenoid on top of the converter.
Undo the electrical plug, and the small bolt, sit it all aside.
There is a brass piece the solenoid attaches to that screws into the housing, maybe a 13 or 14 mm spanner required, and a pair of pointy nosed pliers.
Carefully remove the screw on piece, and the plunger and spring below it.
Be careful as this can fly apart as it is being disassembled.
Below this is a jet, which can be removed with a flat screwdriver.
Clean everything well with Carby cleaner, including spraying into where the jet screws in.
Reassemble, including the drain plug.
Open the tank valve, and cycle the key, but don't start.
Check for leaks with a mixture of dishwashing liquid and water squirted over the fittings etc. and cycle the key a couple more times.
If there are no leaks, go ahead and start.
 
If you are not confident, is probably better to get someone who is experienced with LPG
 
 

New wheels are on, and looking rad I think.


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That is definitely worth a try.
Then
Turn off the gas at the tank, and try to start it 2 or 3 times to purge gas from the lines.
There is a drain plug under the converter. It's a brass plug from memory, maybe 10mm.
Drain any crap from it.
There is the solenoid on top of the converter.
Undo the electrical plug, and the small bolt, sit it all aside.
There is a brass piece the solenoid attaches to that screws into the housing, maybe a 13 or 14 mm spanner required, and a pair of pointy nosed pliers.
Carefully remove the screw on piece, and the plunger and spring below it.
Be careful as this can fly apart as it is being disassembled.
Below this is a jet, which can be removed with a flat screwdriver.
Clean everything well with Carby cleaner, including spraying into where the jet screws in.
Reassemble, including the drain plug.
Open the tank valve, and cycle the key, but don't start.
Check for leaks with a mixture of dishwashing liquid and water squirted over the fittings etc. and cycle the key a couple more times.
If there are no leaks, go ahead and start.
 
If you are not confident, is probably better to get someone who is experienced with LPG
 
 

A few pics of the wheels on the wagon. 10x17 6mm offset. I've ended up with a little more guard clearance that I had expected so as it sits there's about 50mm of travel before guard rub becomes an issue. I'll slap a full tank of gas and some weight in the back and road test it is see how it goes... maybe a small spacer in the back might be in order, hopefully not as I'm happy with stance. (note: the current tyres are 275x40 slicks while I wait for 4 weeks for the actual tyres to arrive from over the puddle.)





 
8x17 235x45 are spot on for fronts.

I still don't know what I've got in the way of front and rear springs but given the overall diameter of the wheels are the same as standard I reckon it's been dropped about 40-50mm. Hopefully this is useful for anyone that might be getting mixed messages about running 10inch wheels on an otherwise standard setup, I know I did!

something you can try on LPG cars if you suspect it's converter.. is to tip HOT water Boiling even. over the converter.. this will soften up the GUNK that can build up inside..
if it's suddenly working fine.. then it's a dirty converter.. (i was told they can't be cleaned, but i'd have a go if i had one.. i had to clean Landi brand converter every 12 months in My XF)

As i sort of tried to say above. 
like for like, and this is coming from watching an engine builder (also fellow RSOCV club member) who specialises in building fast escorts, a 1600 on a low budget can produce more power, and rev better than a pinto with the same low budget spent on it. 
This is a guy who builds them with his own custom cam grinds, and engine dynos each engine and tunes them before giving them back to the customer. 
 
a stock 1600 (for arguments sake Ghia spec with 32/36 factory) vs a 2L Ghia Pinto (same carby) makes not much less power than the pinto. 
 
stick a mild cam, some basic porting, balance, side draft carbs into a 1600, and its making some solid power. 
 
its been proven by said engine builder, Pintos take more time, money and work to make the same sort of gains than it does a 1600. 
the 1600 is also a lot lighter than a Pinto. 
and it is a stronger engine. 
 
An old school trick was to stick 1300 pistons in a 1600. I have a set of 1300 pistons here. It raises the comp ratio significantly. 
 
I wasn’t going to explain why shifting the Pinto back on the mounts Doesn’t work, but Rod already explained it for me. 
It also would be mighty close to the heater bubble, if it were to clear at all, when shifted back on the mounts. They are a long engine. 
 
as for engineers, yeah wouldn’t need it. 
 
But there would be expense in upgrading brakes. Im pretty sure a Pinto wont fit with the original Mk1 booster like it is. Or if it does, the headers would be mighty close to the booster arm that bolts to the firewall. 

yeah but ive said this before. Im not cutting the shell to make it fit. and to be honest, the OHC Pinto are an ok engine. but they are surprisingly hard to balance when you start modifying them. believe it or not, a 1600 is easier to balance, will rev harder than a pinto, and can make more power than a pinto with the same money put into either engine. and i dont need to cut the body shell. 
 
This is why im not keen on doing a zetec into this car either. it means no cutting. remember that I am modifying my 5 speed gearbox to suit the shell, rather than the other way around. simple, im not cutting this car to make things fit. 

BTW, I think the Zetec is an excellent idea, especially dressed up as a BDA

They're a Spanish-built unit am I right? Valencia rings a bell. They'd likely be a metric motor too, but could be wrong

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Keep in mind that even though the KA engine is Kent based, very little, if any, of the engine is of any use on an Escort Kent engine.

BTW, I think the Zetec is an excellent idea, especially dressed up as a BDA

This thread is quite old, but it caught my attention.
I have a 300ci factory EFI six in my 1971 F100. I transplanted it in 1998 - ousting the original 240.
It's a 4.9 litre, 4" bore with 3.98" stroke. Armour guard brought 6 into Queensland during Expo in '88. They were fitted into F250's. 
4 were ultimately crushed would you believe? Two survived - I have one and I believe the other went to a South Australian farmer who removed the EFI. 
Just though that may be of interest to some.
Cheers.

absolutely. and I am keen to continue to approve more work on it. 
 
at the end of the day, as long as the shell is in perfect condition, if that is where all my budget goes, just into the shell, im fine with that. the extra stuff like engine upgrade, steering rack, brakes etc, can be out of pocket in the future. 

It's one of those situations where you are better off going the extra mile

It's one of those situations where you are better off going the extra mile

Woo. 
Tomorrow I will have some progress photos. I am going to see the car in the morning before work. 
What I know is the back panel has been cut out, so that will be interesting to see, and the front left ¼ panel they ended up repairing instead of replacing. apparently spent a solid days work on it to get it properly straight, all the bog removed and currently in bare metal. 
 
There has been phone calls back and forth over the past couple weeks just figuring out more and more details. I think my bill from the panel shop is going to be higher than i originally intended, but i cant help myself, asking them to do extra stuff 😬
 
They are going to roll the guards, so my 13x6 steel rims will hopefully fit. they have a lower offset than my alloys, so they are going to stick out about 10mm further. by rolling the guards i should have no issues with clearance. 
 
They have also inspected the chassis, on the driver's side where my front leaf spring eye is on the chassis. Its always been in the wrong spot, appears to have been welded in the wrong spot from factory. 10mm further back, hence i have always run offset pinned lowering blocks. well, they are going to fix that also, and get the eye mount in the correct spot  
 
Mark has given me free rain of the workshop, so i can come and go whenever i like if there is anything id like to do underneath the car, especially now while its in the air. He suggested i spend some time over there getting the underside cleaned up and body deadened/stone guarded. 
 
On the gearbox front, Rod ( @2redrovers) helped me finished cutting the extension housing. I have spent some time getting it ready to be welded, but since then, I have been flat stick at work. I am temporarily filling a management role at work until march, so in an office from around 10am until about 5pm every day. makes progress very very slow
 
In the mean time, I have also had the alternator on my LR Discovery 2 spit the dummy, so have spent the last couple nights after work getting that ripped out, and hopefully will have the new unit in, and car running again tomorrow night. So i have been without my daily driver too. 
 
Anyway, ill grab some photos of the car tomorrow to share with you guys. Im kind of excited to see the progress, but super nervous about it too 😬

Wont be cutting it. 
mine i imported from the UK. 

Those consoles are too hard to find, so don't cut it up.

A couple of people I know have done the type 9 conversion. The best way to make the shifter hole look right is to cut it out in a rectangular section, but with the hole offset the needed amount. Then reverse it, and weld back in.(if that makes sense)

A couple of people I know have done the type 9 conversion. The best way to make the shifter hole look right is to cut it out in a rectangular section, but with the hole offset the needed amount. Then reverse it, and weld back in.(if that makes sense)

A couple of people I know have done the type 9 conversion. The best way to make the shifter hole look right is to cut it out in a rectangular section, but with the hole offset the needed amount. Then reverse it, and weld back in.(if that makes sense)

A couple of people I know have done the type 9 conversion. The best way to make the shifter hole look right is to cut it out in a rectangular section, but with the hole offset the needed amount. Then reverse it, and weld back in.(if that makes sense)

My exact suggestion. I prefer to talk in offset rather than backspace so with that in mind, I reckon 7" ET+6 front, 8" ET-6 rear is the go. Falcons are goofy in that the rear track is too narrow for the body, and staggering offsets and widths corrects the visual difference between front and rear. I haven't measured it, but the difference on my wagon looks to be about 20mm, which staggering in this way would come close to correcting (theoretically 18.7mm)  
I wouldn't go 8" on the front as ball joint clearance could be an issue. Also you would lose that correction in said guard clearance, as the fronts will stick out way too far to be able to legally match that to the rear. A rear offset of -6 is as far out as you can go to stay within the maximum legal 24mm increase in track.
 
There are drawbacks to staggering widths and offsets though: you can't rotate wheels front to rear, and you have to order 2 different size tyres to make up a set, which might be hard to source in the widths and profiles you want in order to match them evenly, especially 15" which is getting harder to find these days.
 
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drop tank is standard on the 5litre from memory
looks like an ATLAS GREY VN SS.. i could have bought one off a bloke at work 15yrs ago for $5,000..  bet they are more like 50k these days