Thom

If you want to look into some weirdness look up the Argentinean phase2 y blocks after the usa stopped making y blocks in 66 they were produced in Argentina until the 80s at one point they re designed the heads/cam/intake so they were similar to a Windsor head but still used a y block short engine

If you want to look into some weirdness look up the Argentinean phase2 y blocks after the usa stopped making y blocks in 66 they were produced in Argentina until the 80s at one point they re designed the heads/cam/intake so they were similar to a Windsor head but still used a y block short engine

If you want to look into some weirdness look up the Argentinean phase2 y blocks after the usa stopped making y blocks in 66 they were produced in Argentina until the 80s at one point they re designed the heads/cam/intake so they were similar to a Windsor head but still used a y block short engine

Yeah Ford was a pioneer of "thinwall casting" in the early 60s, the 221/260/289 being among the first of their designs to use that method. Not sure when the "Kent" motor came about but perhaps the British casting process didn't lend itself to that approach? Or maybe the smaller engines didn't benefit as the weight saving as a whole wasn't worth it?

The Kent is an amazing engine, among the longest-running designs ever produced if you count the later Spanish versions and was the basis for many motorsport engine designs as well. The most successful F1 engine in history was the Cosworth DFV, which was based on the Kent architecture, just made into a V8.

Wow didn't know Y-blocks could be punched out that far... Pity they didn't make them for very long. They weren't a bad engine, just got outdated pretty quickly as the small block Chev was making its presence known. Also, goofy port arrangement that still boggles to this day.

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I think its more a then vs now, one of the model a engines i have here is .130" over, flathead v8's have .125" pistons commonly available and If you I have a good block you can go as far as .190", y blocks have heaps too a 272 (3.62") can be bored to 292 (3.75")and 292's can be bored 3.90", I think as they were trying to make engines lighter thats when the started removing material from the bores and other ares of the engines

Funny how such a tiny block can be bored so far, yet many big behemoth V8s can't go much beyond 0.030" before the walls get thin.

Pistons came up like brand spankers!

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It would be pretty easy to Machine separately from the rocker cover surface, but would probably be quicker to file it flat if you know what you are doing with a file

Ok i attacked the thermostat area with a hand file today. 
 
I didn’t go right down to get rid of all the pitting but its better. It also have a bit more surface for the thermostat housing to pull down to. 
The new thermostat housing is a little different to the ones ive run in the past, in that the housing itself is smaller than the thermostat, so it actually pulls down on the outer ring of the thermostat itself, which makes sense to me, as it should help give a better seal and make sure the thermostat stays put in its spot. 
 
i think with the new gasket and some gasket goo it will seal ok. 

It would be pretty easy to Machine separately from the rocker cover surface, but would probably be quicker to file it flat if you know what you are doing with a file

that looks like you could trace out the thermostat neck area.. and the head mob could set it up and surface it simply on a milling machine(separate  to the rocker cover part) @Thom do you agree?
 

I may be barking up the wrong tree here, but I do remember e series being sensitive to engine temp vs tune, ( if i remember correctly this was covered a couple of years ago in outback jacks ute thread) you may have to change thermostat to get your engine temps up to 96° (i think that's what e series are supposed to run at from memory) if its not running up to temp properly as far as the ecu is concerned it may only be adjusting the cold start table and throwing it off

I may be barking up the wrong tree here, but I do remember e series being sensitive to engine temp vs tune, ( if i remember correctly this was covered a couple of years ago in outback jacks ute thread) you may have to change thermostat to get your engine temps up to 96° (i think that's what e series are supposed to run at from memory) if its not running up to temp properly as far as the ecu is concerned it may only be adjusting the cold start table and throwing it off

I may be barking up the wrong tree here, but I do remember e series being sensitive to engine temp vs tune, ( if i remember correctly this was covered a couple of years ago in outback jacks ute thread) you may have to change thermostat to get your engine temps up to 96° (i think that's what e series are supposed to run at from memory) if its not running up to temp properly as far as the ecu is concerned it may only be adjusting the cold start table and throwing it off

I would go back to the EB one , you seemed to have more success with that.
I now run EL/XH ecu with ED/XG ISC no probs.
Setting the idle exactly in the order I listed is the only way to get it to play ball.
That's for a manual around 700-800rpm at idle.
Start car, disconnect ISC while running.
RPM should drop to 500-600rpm.
If too low and stalls turn idle up 1/2 turn and try again.
It can be a bit of a s*** but once you get it in the sweet spot, you should get an 800-900rpm cold idle , 700-750/800rpm warm idle.
Hope that helps.


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Hi everyone. I have done this swap into an xf wagon. The front leaf mounting points can be used for the front pickups of the IRS. And all that needs to be made is the rear cradle mount. And the strut mount. The way I did this was very fabrication heavy. I had clearance issues between the strut and the chassis. I'll include a photo to show what I did to make it work. 

G'Day my 2cents
i did EFi to carb on NC failance windsor for my T-bucket, used aftermarket HEI dizzy (needed bronze dizzy gear from memory), used Torker II intake, holley carb, C10 auto it went really well, T-bucket being light(ish), as im not a tech/wiring guy either,  i reckon it cost my under $1000 at the time with second hand parts except dizzy)
 
i have had a few E series V8's and all went really well, with all factory stuff, agree its only 165KW engine in stock form but you should be able to get it to work at least to original factory specs, espiclaly if its already in the car, with exhaust and all the computer/ wiring/hoses etc done, i wouldnt be swapping from EFi just yet, as as mentioned the cascade effect on having to acquire & swap trans/starter and other related gear
 
Sometimes its best to let the experts at this stuff, work on them and sort out the issues, use your time to make money doing what ever you do best/ skillset is,... then use that money to get expert help (i always hang around so i learn something from the money i spend with them too, so its win/win...car gets fixed and i learn something for next time).
 
I had to do this with my barra powered xe, we mucked around for days trouble shooting some issues, tying stuff, swapping parts all to no avail, rang around, found a tuner and the end it was in the setting in the unlocked computer that needed changing via HP tuners. 
 
do you have pics of the current setup ?
cheers
Wok
 
 
 
 

For using phone and tablet to browse the forum the Tapatalk app is pretty user friendly

Wow they've come a long way. Must really know their way around these otherwise tricky ports. They do flow well for a factory small block port but there are only incremental gains to be made by traditional methods. The biggest hurdle after all the bowl work is port placement. Hence why CHI completely moved theirs upwards with the 3V. To get the mixture to turn such a sharp angle on the 2V is a real art. I'd love to see how they do it.

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Don't forget the 50oz imbalance on post-1980 302s vs 28oz earlier (including clevos)

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The engine itself is pretty easy to convert to carb, most 8.2 deck carb intakes will bolt straight to the engine so basically pick your manifold and carb of choice, edelbrock dual plane air gaps work really well for a nice driver, almost all carb manifolds will lose a little low down torque as its not really practical to create carb manifolds with intake runners as long as the efi intakes, but most will see an improvement in hp and make the engine a little more rev happy, there are a couple of options for distributors you can use the stock efi dizzy and use an msd/ice ignition/crane fireball box that has timing control to run the distributor, or you could just drop in an aftermarket dizzy (electronic or points your choice) and go. The hardest part is the transmission if it is the original unit from the eb the trans is a btr 4 speed which is essentially and Australianonly market trans so not much is availableforthen in the aftermarket (Australian delivered vehicles never had aod/aode), these trans are difficult to set-up as a stand alone unit, they still require a tps signal, speedo signal and a trans control unit to run, a couple of places like shiftkits Australia do make stand alone trans computers but from what I'm aware they only do manually shifted units, as far as comp ratios and such go you will have to work out which pistons your engine has, most Aussie 5.0's had flat tops with valve reliefs cut into the pistons but some engines had dished pistons

The engine itself is pretty easy to convert to carb, most 8.2 deck carb intakes will bolt straight to the engine so basically pick your manifold and carb of choice, edelbrock dual plane air gaps work really well for a nice driver, almost all carb manifolds will lose a little low down torque as its not really practical to create carb manifolds with intake runners as long as the efi intakes, but most will see an improvement in hp and make the engine a little more rev happy, there are a couple of options for distributors you can use the stock efi dizzy and use an msd/ice ignition/crane fireball box that has timing control to run the distributor, or you could just drop in an aftermarket dizzy (electronic or points your choice) and go. The hardest part is the transmission if it is the original unit from the eb the trans is a btr 4 speed which is essentially and Australianonly market trans so not much is availableforthen in the aftermarket (Australian delivered vehicles never had aod/aode), these trans are difficult to set-up as a stand alone unit, they still require a tps signal, speedo signal and a trans control unit to run, a couple of places like shiftkits Australia do make stand alone trans computers but from what I'm aware they only do manually shifted units, as far as comp ratios and such go you will have to work out which pistons your engine has, most Aussie 5.0's had flat tops with valve reliefs cut into the pistons but some engines had dished pistons