Thom

I know someone who can do those sort of things, but I'm probably a bit far away

I know someone who can do those sort of things, but I'm probably a bit far away

I'm sounding like a broken record now but.... Twin strommies for the win!

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You can mix and match the heads, but they did have different combustion chambers and valves for the different size engines, you couldn't put a 200 head on a 144 without notching the tops of the bore to clear if you were running a big cam etc, but when you get to xy-xb 200 and 250 they are slightly different animal to the earlier engines, they are both the same bore as each other and a taller deck height than the 144-221 engines, the xy-xb engines were all hydraulic cam and no adjustable rockers, all 144 and 170 up to xp were solid cam with adjustable rockers, most xp 200's were hydraulic cam but I have heard of the odd one having a solid cam, I'm not certain on the xr to xw engines as I haven't had much to do with them, xr still had 170 and 200 as engine options both were supposed to be hydraulic cam engines xt and xw the 170 grew to 188 cubes and the 200 grew to 221 these were the last engines that had the short water pump and they are the only true bolt in upgrade to an early falcon that doesn't require an engineer certificate, the xy and later engines (including crossflow) have a longer water pump and require the radiator to be moved forward, a deeper sump either requiring the engine to be spaced up or use xr/xt engine mounts that lift the engine so it doesn't hit the drag link on full lock, with the 200/250 xy-xb engines you can't use early falcon specific headers and the taller deck height makes the collector hit the floor, sorry i went on a bit of a tangent there

So, finally pulled the rest of the big block 170 apart. REALLY surprised to find the pistons are in excellent shape. The rings are worn, the bumpstick has pitting, and it looks like cylinder 3 has some staining in the bore, from a possible head gasket failure. 
 
 
Conrod big end bearings are 10 under, as are the Mains. 
 
 
The rings are well worn at approx 0.027" gap. I had to physically pull the oil control rings off with a pick, as they were stuck solid to the pistons. Soaked the pistons in some 98 pulp and gave them a quick clean. Will give the bores a lick with the hone, and see what they come up like. There is still a little cross hatch visible. 
 
 
 

Being above the water pump, there's not as much support under that part of the block, overe torquing can crack the block

One big thing just like a crossflow the head bolt over the water pump shouldn't be torqued up to the 3rd stage like the rest of the head bolts, otherwise if nothing is too worn out just throw some rings/bearings/gaskets and the biggest drama you'll have after that is sorting the carb out

Not really, just treat it like a 6 cylinder Windsor, bent push rods and burnt valves are some of the more common failures (due to people miss adjusting the rockers or people trying to start one that's been sitting without checking for stuck valves) broken rings aren't too uncommon over half of the pre xflows I've pulled apart have had at least 1 and that's probably the cause of your marks on the top of that piston, they usually don't seem to damage the bore or ring lands when they do it which is strange, one big thing replace the welc plugs on the exhaust side of the head they are about the only ones (other than the one in the bellhousing) that are next to impossible to change in the car, I like to turn them into a pcv engine rather than a road draft one, I turn the road draft tube upside down and shorten it then use a rubber grommet to hold a pcv in the former road draft tube then plumb it to the intake, they are no power house but a nice running one should have no problems sitting on 70-80mph all day long

You can mix and match the heads, but they did have different combustion chambers and valves for the different size engines, you couldn't put a 200 head on a 144 without notching the tops of the bore to clear if you were running a big cam etc, but when you get to xy-xb 200 and 250 they are slightly different animal to the earlier engines, they are both the same bore as each other and a taller deck height than the 144-221 engines, the xy-xb engines were all hydraulic cam and no adjustable rockers, all 144 and 170 up to xp were solid cam with adjustable rockers, most xp 200's were hydraulic cam but I have heard of the odd one having a solid cam, I'm not certain on the xr to xw engines as I haven't had much to do with them, xr still had 170 and 200 as engine options both were supposed to be hydraulic cam engines xt and xw the 170 grew to 188 cubes and the 200 grew to 221 these were the last engines that had the short water pump and they are the only true bolt in upgrade to an early falcon that doesn't require an engineer certificate, the xy and later engines (including crossflow) have a longer water pump and require the radiator to be moved forward, a deeper sump either requiring the engine to be spaced up or use xr/xt engine mounts that lift the engine so it doesn't hit the drag link on full lock, with the 200/250 xy-xb engines you can't use early falcon specific headers and the taller deck height makes the collector hit the floor, sorry i went on a bit of a tangent there

She's a narrow block, looking at your pics, but you have a hi comp head so that's a good start

What is the head casting no?, 170's had 2 heads the standard head had 170 behind the carb flange like this
And the high comp 170 had 170h cast into the head like this

Being a wide block I would have thought it would have 7 mains, at least that's what I'd always been told, wide blocks were first released in automatic xp 170's (the 200's were a narrow block with an adapter) and then all engines were wide block sometime in xr, your engine looks like it'll clean up OK, it'll give you an excuse to make a run stand

5.4 Will be a tight fit, the 3v engine the Fairmonts have is a bit of a sluggish, but slightly smaller than the squad cam 5.4's

Au 5.0's are a pretty nice engine for what they are but the biggest problem is most headers don't fit them due to the gt40p heads au engines have, gt40p's have the spark plug re located compared to other Windsor heads


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5.4 Will be a tight fit, the 3v engine the Fairmonts have is a bit of a sluggish, but slightly smaller than the squad cam 5.4's

Au 5.0's are a pretty nice engine for what they are but the biggest problem is most headers don't fit them due to the gt40p heads au engines have, gt40p's have the spark plug re located compared to other Windsor heads


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A really good one probably around 120-130ish rwkw depending on the dyno

I just put 110nm or 80ft lbs on the front stud. 
 
80nm been stock setting.

Being above the water pump, there's not as much support under that part of the block, overe torquing can crack the block

One big thing just like a crossflow the head bolt over the water pump shouldn't be torqued up to the 3rd stage like the rest of the head bolts, otherwise if nothing is too worn out just throw some rings/bearings/gaskets and the biggest drama you'll have after that is sorting the carb out

Not really, just treat it like a 6 cylinder Windsor, bent push rods and burnt valves are some of the more common failures (due to people miss adjusting the rockers or people trying to start one that's been sitting without checking for stuck valves) broken rings aren't too uncommon over half of the pre xflows I've pulled apart have had at least 1 and that's probably the cause of your marks on the top of that piston, they usually don't seem to damage the bore or ring lands when they do it which is strange, one big thing replace the welc plugs on the exhaust side of the head they are about the only ones (other than the one in the bellhousing) that are next to impossible to change in the car, I like to turn them into a pcv engine rather than a road draft one, I turn the road draft tube upside down and shorten it then use a rubber grommet to hold a pcv in the former road draft tube then plumb it to the intake, they are no power house but a nice running one should have no problems sitting on 70-80mph all day long

Not really, just treat it like a 6 cylinder Windsor, bent push rods and burnt valves are some of the more common failures (due to people miss adjusting the rockers or people trying to start one that's been sitting without checking for stuck valves) broken rings aren't too uncommon over half of the pre xflows I've pulled apart have had at least 1 and that's probably the cause of your marks on the top of that piston, they usually don't seem to damage the bore or ring lands when they do it which is strange, one big thing replace the welc plugs on the exhaust side of the head they are about the only ones (other than the one in the bellhousing) that are next to impossible to change in the car, I like to turn them into a pcv engine rather than a road draft one, I turn the road draft tube upside down and shorten it then use a rubber grommet to hold a pcv in the former road draft tube then plumb it to the intake, they are no power house but a nice running one should have no problems sitting on 70-80mph all day long

One big thing just like a crossflow the head bolt over the water pump shouldn't be torqued up to the 3rd stage like the rest of the head bolts, otherwise if nothing is too worn out just throw some rings/bearings/gaskets and the biggest drama you'll have after that is sorting the carb out

Anything to REALLY watch out for with the 170.??  Remembering that this will be just refreshed enough to get driven into scrutineering/rubber glove station, and out again.
Bent pushrods.?? Burnt valves?? or just throw new rings at it and bolt it together??

Not at all, this is all new to me... appreciate the input. 👍

You can mix and match the heads, but they did have different combustion chambers and valves for the different size engines, you couldn't put a 200 head on a 144 without notching the tops of the bore to clear if you were running a big cam etc, but when you get to xy-xb 200 and 250 they are slightly different animal to the earlier engines, they are both the same bore as each other and a taller deck height than the 144-221 engines, the xy-xb engines were all hydraulic cam and no adjustable rockers, all 144 and 170 up to xp were solid cam with adjustable rockers, most xp 200's were hydraulic cam but I have heard of the odd one having a solid cam, I'm not certain on the xr to xw engines as I haven't had much to do with them, xr still had 170 and 200 as engine options both were supposed to be hydraulic cam engines xt and xw the 170 grew to 188 cubes and the 200 grew to 221 these were the last engines that had the short water pump and they are the only true bolt in upgrade to an early falcon that doesn't require an engineer certificate, the xy and later engines (including crossflow) have a longer water pump and require the radiator to be moved forward, a deeper sump either requiring the engine to be spaced up or use xr/xt engine mounts that lift the engine so it doesn't hit the drag link on full lock, with the 200/250 xy-xb engines you can't use early falcon specific headers and the taller deck height makes the collector hit the floor, sorry i went on a bit of a tangent there

She's a narrow block, looking at your pics, but you have a hi comp head so that's a good start

You can mix and match the heads, but they did have different combustion chambers and valves for the different size engines, you couldn't put a 200 head on a 144 without notching the tops of the bore to clear if you were running a big cam etc, but when you get to xy-xb 200 and 250 they are slightly different animal to the earlier engines, they are both the same bore as each other and a taller deck height than the 144-221 engines, the xy-xb engines were all hydraulic cam and no adjustable rockers, all 144 and 170 up to xp were solid cam with adjustable rockers, most xp 200's were hydraulic cam but I have heard of the odd one having a solid cam, I'm not certain on the xr to xw engines as I haven't had much to do with them, xr still had 170 and 200 as engine options both were supposed to be hydraulic cam engines xt and xw the 170 grew to 188 cubes and the 200 grew to 221 these were the last engines that had the short water pump and they are the only true bolt in upgrade to an early falcon that doesn't require an engineer certificate, the xy and later engines (including crossflow) have a longer water pump and require the radiator to be moved forward, a deeper sump either requiring the engine to be spaced up or use xr/xt engine mounts that lift the engine so it doesn't hit the drag link on full lock, with the 200/250 xy-xb engines you can't use early falcon specific headers and the taller deck height makes the collector hit the floor, sorry i went on a bit of a tangent there