LJDB

Got back into it last night. Set the timing at 28 and went for a spin. Pulled good and didn't ping so played with the tune. It had 60/61 with 8.5 with wire in the pvcr. Still has the flat spot on acceleration and a/f was alittle rich. Took the 8.5pv and wires out and fitted a 6.5. Vac is around 12-13, put 59 in and pulled Alot stronger in the mid range, I think it had something to do with the pv not being restricted but still rich at wot mid to high 11 a/f. Tried to clean up the bog when accelerating hard. Checked the pump arm and it was running on the spring, adjusted to suit but in some postons u run out of adjustment on the pump arm spring. Played with squirters and cam holes. I'm using the pink with 35 squirter. Tried 25/31/35 best I could get it was pink cam hole 3 pos 2. What's everyone's thoughts on pump cams? I also may have found another contributor to the rpm miss/ rev limiter. One time after I pulled over it wouldn't crank like a flat battery or dead starter. Pulled the starter out today and bench tested it all ok. Check wiring ect found the earth terminal at the battery corroded between the terminal and post. Cleaned them all up and she turns over nicely. Maybe that's why it sounded like the rev limiter cos the msd wasn't getting a good earth under load. Gonna take it out again tonight and play with the pump cams ect. I also went 60 in the secondary's .

This isn't a new head. When I got the car the owner said it had work but didn't know what. All he knew was it had rollers because he could see them through the oil cap. From the look of the bottom end (suspected ACL rebuild kit 8cc Pistons) when it was apart it had done some k's. Iv owned it Since 2012 and before that it was off the road for many years. I got it coz it was straight and interior clean with no rips and cheap $1200. The motor was a plus I didn't even start it. Slowly I have added the manual conversion, msd, 4 barrel, camshafts x2 when ever something has popped up cheap. The most expensive thing I have done would be this cam and lifters. Iv done all the labour ect myself and my uncle painted it. Thanks to you lads it's where it is today in terms of performace and modifications. My crossflow addiction had well and truely set in.

Ok I'm starting to get somewhere. The car goes heaps better and pulls harder didn't play up at 5400. I changed 3 things, 1st I changed the fuel line setup at the carb. I had 3/8 line going to a flat t piece under the manifold with lines going to each fuel bowl, changed to a y piece going to the bowls hoping for a change in pressure. I also re routed the spark plug leads, I remembered reading about spark scatter or something when looking into the msd. I ran the leads as individual as possible where before I had 123 together over the rocker cover and 456 together. And the 3rd and final I checked the valve spring installed heights 1.900 cam card says 1.800. When I had the springs checked ages ago for a different reason they checked at 1.800 -120 and total lift only -320@.500 I never checked spring installed heights back then I just assumed that was the norm. So this morning I rushed down to vpw and got some shims. I fitted .060 shims which brings the installed heights to around 1.840 which is still high. Checked bind which is still ok.
valves have ACL stamped on them but I can not find any info on acl valves
So can I add more than 1 shim to get closer to 1.800 or what do I need to do to get there.
If I change the springs and retainers will I still have 1.900?
I have multi groove collets can offset be used as well as a shim.
I'm not sure about the valves installed height but the car definitely goes heaps better. Runs a lot better in general more power through out rev range

Comp is 11.3 and it's a early unmarked carb head with hf2 marked on top. Machined down to 42cc chamber with general porting and clean up of the inlet, exhaust looks pretty standard. Standard valve sizes. Aussiespeed 4 barrel with 570 street avenger. I do have pics but can't work out how to upload them. I was going real well. Only went for a short drive but was still pulling strong with the limiter at 5700. Bumped it up to 6500 and didn't hit it but power was signing off and the miss would reappear. A/f was showing 12 at wot and plugs looked rich but I've put octane booster so it's a little hard to read they stay a browny orange colour. Still needs a good tune, has a big flat spot on accel.One thing I really notice the other cold night I could crank the timing right up nearly 40 without pinging but on previous warm days I would have to back it right off to blow 30. It currently set to 34. I enjoy playing around with the car so couple hours piss farting around or doing this twice for small gains or better understanding doesn't bother me in the slightest.

Comp is 11.3 and it's a early unmarked carb head with hf2 marked on top. Machined down to 42cc chamber with general porting and clean up of the inlet, exhaust looks pretty standard. Standard valve sizes. Aussiespeed 4 barrel with 570 street avenger. I do have pics but can't work out how to upload them. I was going real well. Only went for a short drive but was still pulling strong with the limiter at 5700. Bumped it up to 6500 and didn't hit it but power was signing off and the miss would reappear. A/f was showing 12 at wot and plugs looked rich but I've put octane booster so it's a little hard to read they stay a browny orange colour. Still needs a good tune, has a big flat spot on accel.One thing I really notice the other cold night I could crank the timing right up nearly 40 without pinging but on previous warm days I would have to back it right off to blow 30. It currently set to 34. I enjoy playing around with the car so couple hours piss farting around or doing this twice for small gains or better understanding doesn't bother me in the slightest.

Ok I'm starting to get somewhere. The car goes heaps better and pulls harder didn't play up at 5400. I changed 3 things, 1st I changed the fuel line setup at the carb. I had 3/8 line going to a flat t piece under the manifold with lines going to each fuel bowl, changed to a y piece going to the bowls hoping for a change in pressure. I also re routed the spark plug leads, I remembered reading about spark scatter or something when looking into the msd. I ran the leads as individual as possible where before I had 123 together over the rocker cover and 456 together. And the 3rd and final I checked the valve spring installed heights 1.900 cam card says 1.800. When I had the springs checked ages ago for a different reason they checked at 1.800 -120 and total lift only -320@.500 I never checked spring installed heights back then I just assumed that was the norm. So this morning I rushed down to vpw and got some shims. I fitted .060 shims which brings the installed heights to around 1.840 which is still high. Checked bind which is still ok.
valves have ACL stamped on them but I can not find any info on acl valves
So can I add more than 1 shim to get closer to 1.800 or what do I need to do to get there.
If I change the springs and retainers will I still have 1.900?
I have multi groove collets can offset be used as well as a shim.
I'm not sure about the valves installed height but the car definitely goes heaps better. Runs a lot better in general more power through out rev range

Could the east west be substituted for a carb spacer. I got bugger all room too under the bonnet.

Got the cam yesterday, done everything today. Didn't start straight away but pushrods where all turning. glad I followed your tip sly with the markings on the pushrod. Abit of relief when she fired and they all span. Pulled the engine out to fix some other bits. Took the hv oil pump out and fitted a std jp pump I had. Massive difference in the amount of oil in the head when running.

Got the cam yesterday, done everything today. Didn't start straight away but pushrods where all turning. glad I followed your tip sly with the markings on the pushrod. Abit of relief when she fired and they all span. Pulled the engine out to fix some other bits. Took the hv oil pump out and fitted a std jp pump I had. Massive difference in the amount of oil in the head when running.

Got the cam yesterday, done everything today. Didn't start straight away but pushrods where all turning. glad I followed your tip sly with the markings on the pushrod. Abit of relief when she fired and they all span. Pulled the engine out to fix some other bits. Took the hv oil pump out and fitted a std jp pump I had. Massive difference in the amount of oil in the head when running.

Got the cam yesterday, done everything today. Didn't start straight away but pushrods where all turning. glad I followed your tip sly with the markings on the pushrod. Abit of relief when she fired and they all span. Pulled the engine out to fix some other bits. Took the hv oil pump out and fitted a std jp pump I had. Massive difference in the amount of oil in the head when running.

Got the cam yesterday, done everything today. Didn't start straight away but pushrods where all turning. glad I followed your tip sly with the markings on the pushrod. Abit of relief when she fired and they all span. Pulled the engine out to fix some other bits. Took the hv oil pump out and fitted a std jp pump I had. Massive difference in the amount of oil in the head when running.

Got it sorted found the power wire at the dizzy to have backed out. Fixed the connector and yes the module is still on there, il get around to changing it one day.

Cylinder head all done and cc'd. I now have 9.5:1 compression. Its is right up there for boost but there is a bit of overlap in the camshaft so it will be fine with low (7psi) boost and a good tune.
 

 
 
Bit of bling - yella terra platinum non-adjustables. All set up for nice preload on the lifters.
 

 
And fitted up with the Aussiespeed 2 barrel manifold - WHY - well there is a bit more R&D to do on the blower kits to ensure their reliability. I am cool with that as there is more than what meets the eyes when you start to develop a commercial product. It has to work and work well - bit different if you are just doing it for yourself.
 
Good news is that this puts us back to plan A. The MSC will go through various 2 barrel carb combinations and then four barrel with the results documented in the thread. Really keen to hear this thing live.

I had the best results by setting the primary the same as gerg, Then putting the carb up to light and adjusting the secondaries so the same amount of light coming through the primary butterflys is coming from the secondaries. Like gerg said if you adjust the secondaries to see the transfer slot they will be open to much. I had to pull the carb off a few times to get it so I had good adjustment each way at the screw.

I fitted a 85 amp vn I think v6( the one with a v belt pulley) and only had to space the bottom bracket and wire it slightly different. Really easy mod.

If your using a street fire msd with tfi the timing will be locked at the dizzy.

I had troubles with pinging and running on before i went tfi and streetfire msd. I also went 1 colder on the spark plugs. If your not short on coin i would go a programmable msd.  

I had troubles with pinging and running on before i went tfi and streetfire msd. I also went 1 colder on the spark plugs. If your not short on coin i would go a programmable msd.  

Its not a crow but these are the specs. I couldn't run more than 28 degrees locked with a tfi and street fire msd, or regraphed XE dizzy using 98 with octane booster. The TFI definitely feels better and im spewing I didn't get a programmable 6al. Even now with the lowered comp I can only run 30 locked without booster.

Well the engine that came with my new shop ute has a munched cam bearing (number 2) so it is time to finally put together the 'Mad scientist' crossflow.  This engine will be pieced together from left over crossflow bits from my speedway career and general hunting and gathering.
 
Here is quick run down;
 
Yella Terra street terra bolt on adjustables on a D head with moderate porting and a multi angle seat cut.  Not really sure on the head flow figures but the engine it was on made 270rwhp on fuel so good enough.
 
Bottom end will be a 78DA block, .030 that I picked up locally for $20.  It is honed and fitted with new cam bearings and the crank is unbalanced.  Slugs will be ACL 8.5cc (now 10cc thanks to inlet reliefs) 200 rod pistons on balanced 200 rods with ARP rods bolts.
 
Camshaft is a very old CROW 619 Hydraulic.  Not ideal but it is what I have and I want to finally use it.  I have a new set of Clevite anti pump up lifters so they will go in with a one season old Rollmaster Double Row Timing chain.  Pushrods will be a set of tapered XC factory units (they are strong little buggers).
 
The Shop ute cam with off the shelf Lukey extractors and I have fitted a press bent 2.5" exhaust with a singe muffler (no resonator) that I had lying around. Compression should end up at 10.3:1 and I will be running an Aussiespeed 2 barrel manifold with a Keith Dorton 350 Holley initially.
 
The plan is to build and run the engine like this and once it is 'run in', I will dyno it and see what we end up with.  Then I will change to a reco 500 Holley and see what happens on the dyno. 
 
I have a dirty old CAIN four barrel manifold here and a 600DP so that will also make it's way on in the future and if I can con a new Aussiespeed 4 barrel out of Mark I will test them back to back to show how superior the Aussiespeed unit is. 
 
Whole object of this engine is to show people what can be achieved with careful parts hunting and scavenging.  It wont be an all time horsepower king, but it will be fun.  I will update this thread with results so stay tuned.

I put wire in the pv hole and found it slightly better so il try thicker wire when i get some. I also tried the 350 metering block and it was way richer. wouldnt idle unless the mixture screws where all the way in and the af was 12 at best. WOT was low 10's which got my looking at the differences in metering blocks. The main difference i couldn see was the street avenger has a jet/restrictor in the idle feed restrictor location in the metering block. So i followed the channel and found it came out in the choke tower. After some googling i found it to be the idle air bleeds, the air bleed holes on either side are way bigger than the inners or the bleeds on the secondary side. So the street avenger is to lean and the 350 is to rich at idle so i put cut down split pins into the main body to restrict the idle air bleeds the same way as the pv and checked it. What a difference, the mixture screws are responsive it idles way better and the vacum signal was strong at 13. I had to remove the carb to close off the secondary blade because it was idling perfect with the idle screw all the way out just on the secondaries and i can pretty much set the af where i want it at idle. Now just to sort out the wot. Thanks for the help guys.

Pull the spark plugs, watch a youtube video on spark plugs colouring. Done. Spend your money at the pub.

so after afew trips to vpw and the likes i have finally come up found something im happy with. i tried a 14x3 drop base-1/2" spacer, hits bonnet,14x2 drop base with raiser-1/2" spacer hit carb vent tubes filter lid wont seal, 9x2-1/2" spacer very close to bonnet and vent tubes ect. while at  vpw they had a clearance box with different filter sizes and types. found a tapered filter that is 9" at the base, 5-1/4" at the top and 3" tall. this fits with a 1" spacer not sure if it will restrict much air flow but il drive the car tomorrow and see how it goes.

You're welcome to ask as many questions as you like here Ando81, this thread is open to input from all ozfalcon users
 
If you want a cheap setup, just get yourself a solid state pump off ebay, new fuel lines and hose clamps if needed. Plumb it all in, earth the pump, and take 12v feed from the fuel cut solenoid 12v feed, or wire it to a switch you manually control.
 
The above will get you from A to B and C (I haven't tried D yet) if plumbed and wired properly. Might be a bit heavy on fuel usage but probably not a issue for you as you use LPG most of the time.
 
I run this pump http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Electric-Fuel-Pump-12-volt-Solid-State-4-to-6psi-130-LPH-Petrol-Universal-New-/130721428894?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e6f9ab59e&_uhb=1
 
I have it mounted roughly where the mechanical pump goes. It makes a bit of noise when you switch the pump on, but seems to quieten down a bit once it gets fuel flowing through it, I barely hear it, if at all. while the car is running.