IVC434

Repco sell it, there's a fair few different sizes.

Normally you get the right size and it's just a nice firm fit over the pipe, no clamps needed.



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Don't skimp on the cost, buy the Loctite product called literally "Rear view mirror glue" or whatever, It works every time.... Scrape the glass clean, use the primer in the pack, and clean the Ford plate thingy, put your sunvisors down and make sure they don't hit (make it central in other words).  Place the metal plate on the inside of the windscreen, get a mate/wife/girlfriend to mark the outside of the windscreen with a texta or marker. Prime both surfaces, dab on the glue, stick on, Robert's ya Fathers brother. 
 
Don't heaps of these over the years, never fall off.

Mine kept falling off so I made a mount from aluminium plate. It is held by the two screws holding the centre visor clips and the mirror held to that by a 1/8" bolt through the mirror foot with a bit of rubber tube cushioning it off the screen. End of problem.
 
Eventually the super glue just won't hold it any longer.

There's only two brands I've seen -
Loctite (my preferred one)
and Permatex, which I've not had much success with.

@SPArKy_Dave has a preferred one,
 
i think the glass could do with a bit of sandpaper in that spot, like get a piece of 240 grit over your thumb and twist a couple of times after scraping the old glue off. same for the metal part..
i've had some take a chunk of glass out when being removed, they'd been stuck on so well. 

Hello again folks. I haven't been able to get much done on the XC for the last few years, but I noticed that the rear view mirror has come off the windscreen. 
 
This also happened a few times when my grandfather owned it. 
 
Does anyone have a recommendation for the best adhesive to reattach it to the windscreen again please? 
 
Also, any tips on preparation to minimise the risk of it falling off again. 
 
Thank you for any assistance. 

Well, last Saturday was an epic day and has given me and my mate confidence and inspiration to push on harder than ever with the restoration of Granddad's old XC... 
 
After liberally lubricating each cylinder and leaving it for a week, we gently turned her over by hand. 
 
There were NO tight spots, weird sounds or unwanted friction at all and she turned beautifully... 
 
Battery was connected and carby was primed and after about 6 attempts, she briefly coughed and died... 
 
A few more attempts were made until, incredibly, the super fuel that was still in her tank (no, it HASN'T gone off at all) made it to the fuel pump and she ran long enough for me to get this very quick video. 
 
Pretty much a testament to the strength and engineering of the mighty crossflow engine... 
 
 

Dean, you are such a bloody legend. 
 
As are all the blokes on this forum. 
 
I'm genuinely grateful for the knowledge and wisdom that you all share... 
 
You give me more confidence each time... 
 
Thank you. 
 
I'll invest in those tools as soon as my cash situation improves... 

...and this is the cleaned and rebuilt fuel pump.... 

yeah the old belts like BGDAVs F100(XC era) needed this clean with proper soap, silicone won't do it.
it's unlikely that ball/locking mech from my experience.  
 
 
this has worked for 100% of my locking/retracting issues.  even if the belts are stuffed with frayed edges it's still the fix for the retracting/locking issue.
if they are frayed, you can get them re webbed it's called, be nice on a full resto, but a resurrection like you have i'd be doing the minimum for the short term
 

I was going to suggest silicone spray, as it's fairly inert once the solvent evaporates and is invisible. I have successfully freed up BA Falcon belts where they gum up with skin oil (especially with smokers) in the top eye and don't retract.

I'm not 100% sure about the older mechanisms, but the newer ones have a little ball bearing on a cam that wedge together when the belt is pulled quickly. If there's gummy crap or dried/dusty residue in there, it could be why it has no locking action. My suggestion is the same as yours, wash in warm, soapy water but lightly lube the mechanism with said silicone.

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Thank you for your help. As always, you're a life saver Dean. 
 
I'll give it a go. Still have a few more exterior mechanical tasks to complete first, but it sounds like something that I can do... 
 
Much appreciated. 😊👍🙏

if the belts themselves are stiff from sitting/dirt etc it may pay to wash them. 
i've done it in the past by just undoing the top bolt on the B pillar(shoulder height bolt) you might want to remove the pillar trim, there's sometimes a rubbery patch thing that falls in the path of the belt behind there(think it's meant to stop dust getting in the pillar where the reel lives)
if you do remove the reel also, they are very fiddly to get back unlocked if you let it reel all the way in. they need to be perfectly level horizontally and vertically. made much harder when it's reeled ALL the belt in.. need to slowly jiggle the belt to unlock it.. ah fun times.
 
and bringing a bucket of warm water and 2 towels you don't care about anymore(they'll get filthy and may not come clean) with some of your favourite clothes washing powder (Aldi Almat, or omo etc) put a table spoon of washing power in your bucket of water, reel out the belt as long as you can, and wash it in the bucket, sometimes they are really gunky and may need a scrub with scourer/brush also. basically wash the belt as best you can.. wipe it with one towel till it's not transferring grime.. then you can get some clean water to rinse it.. and dry off with the other towel. 
don't wear a white T shirt for a while lol .. they'll probably still be dirty and a little damp, 

lucky in this weather they should dry fairly fast when extended out (remaining bolted to to the pillar at the bottom is your best chance to be able to have them unlock again. 
reason it's not locking now is it can't react quick enough due to being stiff belts in my opinion. 

they can be rewebbed/reconditioned but it's expensive. normally isn't needed. 
 
some people lubricate the belts with silicon spray, i don't.. 

Thank you. 😊👍
I'll contact them. Can't hurt to ask, at least... 😊

i haven't kept any info but there was a mob reconditioning water pumps in Melbourne (North Melbourne likely) approx 20 years ago.. i had a google and this mob came up in Hoppers Crossing saying they rebuild. 
i'd ask AUTO SURPLUS, they used to have all the contacts(they could have tie rods etc rebuilt if need be)https://www.autosurplus.com.au/?gclid=CjwKCAjwz5iMBhAEEiwAMEAwGCnoAQ-YieDFLA3jZk8-g3_P644-XpEIkLiSBDyYSyCxsIoY06LsYhoCo1AQAvD_BwE
 
water pump rebuild i found with google
https://www.regsradiators.com.au/water-pumps

Hello all. 
 
We're currently swapping the water pump in my 1977 XC Falcon with a 250 crossflow 6, and I was just wondering if it's possible to get the OLD water pump cleaned up and rebuilt so that I can keep it as a spare? 
 
We're replacing it with a NOS water pump as it is, but if I could keep the original one as a backup, it'll save me from hunting for one in years to come when they'll be REALLY hard to find.

Normally not required if the 2 faces are square, true and flat...  but, after 25 years, smear a little on with your finger, both sides. It will piss you off later when it starts weeping oil.  😁

One more question for you regarding the gasket please. 
 
I'm just about ready to reinstall the newly refurbished fuel pump and I'm not sure if I should use a gasket sealant for it, or is it not as critical as something like the thermostat housing or water pump for example? 

...and this is the cleaned and rebuilt fuel pump.... 

I can't answer your gasket question I'm afraid, but I DID manage to find a fuel pump repair kit and the pump has been completely rebuilt and is ready to go back on the car again... 
 
I found it at a place called Auto Surplus in Croydon South, Victoria.. 
 
www.autosurplus.com.au
 
The kit was $64 or so and everything fitted perfectly. With the new, flexible diaphragm, that pump will suck a golf ball through a garden hose now... 
 
Bear in mind though, that the pump on my XC is for the 6 cylinder engine. If you're after a V8 model, I can't guarantee they'll have one, but they're definitely worth a try... 
 
Good luck.... 

Originally posted by user DEANKDX
Copied over from another forum, due to importance.
 
 
I bought this set http://cgi.ebay.com....rack=true��last August 2011 figuring the main issue would be wear sooner than TRW branded stuff. i did not expect a FAILURE in a part i assumed was one solid cast.
seems they are manufactured in 2 parts... and the thin section of the broken part is approx 1mm which surprises me it lasted the 10,000km it did.

this failed on a slow intersection turn without warning(approx 15kmh). you could only imagine what could happen if it failed at highway speeds.

i'll be changing at minimum the other side one as precaution to a TRW brand which are closer to $50 each(still cheaper than a tow truck let alone a life or injury)

THIS DISGUSTS ME TOTALLY, And although i know you get what you pay for.... you shouldn't be able to buy at any cost something so inferior (worn originals would be safer)

if you have any suggestions for AUTHORITIES to contact regarding this i'd like to get the word out to prevent this crap from ending up on our roads.
i plan to contact vic roads and RACV to pass this on to whoever will listen.

I was going to say Auto Surplus, would've thought you'd know of them through work, we use them all the time for old rarer parts

I believe the gasket is a heat barrier between the pump and the block.

Your a legend. 
Yep mine is for a 6 cylinder, its a 200ci in an XP. 
Ill go have a captain cook now. 

...and this is the cleaned and rebuilt fuel pump....