motoSycho

Yep Slydog has it. Flat tappets aren't actually flat. They're slightly domed, and the cam lobes are slightly tapered and offset to the cam bore. They don't push the lifter squarely, but rather roll it on one outside edge while pushing it up. This causes the lifter to rotate in its bore and wear the face evenly. The minute it stops rotating is when it gets wiped.

This is also why you need a zinc oil at all times, especially run-in (trust me on this, learnt the hard way) as the pressure on that very small sliding contact patch between cam and lifter would easily be thousands of PSI.

This is why many OEMs went to roller cams in the 80s. Not for performance, but because they had to start taking zinc out of the oil due to it causing cat failure.

Try to avoid turning the engine over too much once you've installed the cam and lubed it. You want the cam lube to be on it until the very moment you (hopefully) fire it up and get that oil splashing on it at 2000-2500 rpm.



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I'll give it a go using the drill to prime it 👍
 
And speaking of radiators, I picked up a brand new still in the box radiator for $50 on Wednesday.
 

 

I did this with a bolt welded to the top of the shaft with the thread sticking out to be gripped by the drill.

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An old dizzy shaft with the gear removed works well

it's pretty easy to burn through $4000 on an engine rebuild, especially if doing hoses, belts, oils, fluids etc.. (add heater core and radiator into it .. just keeps going up)
 
My old Neighbor (old in age, and old as in previous) used to undo the oil pressure switch and pump engine oil in there to prime the oil system on some cars. 
if you left the manifold off and got creative you could use a drill to prime the oil system by either making up a hex drive that fits the drill into where the dizzy goes, (might be able to buy one even?) 

I never add things up like that ,,
 
less they are tax deductions ,,
hehehe

You using any sort of assembly lube ,?

Oh Holy Shit Balls!!!!!   Ummm, so Michelle had a bad idea and we added up all the receipts we could find, and what we could remember I have spent on the ute! There are a crap load of receipts missing as I didn't keep them all at the time. Oh Crap. It's around $8000!!!!! This is tools I have bought as well,,,,,,but Jeebus!

Thanks man, bottom end is back together 👍
 
Now I can get the head on.
 
Should I fill the oil pump with oil before I bolt it back on ?

they say always go with the fastener manufacturer's instructions.

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No worries ta.
 
Good day off. Got the bottom and top ends back together.
Back to it on Saturday and get everything else done and back into the ute!

 

 

 
 

 
 

Can do, but it will prob drain out overnight.  Some guys use grease or Vaseline, and it will dump with the first oil change with the running in oil. 

Thanks @deankdx got an adapter from Aussiespeed. 
 
Putting the ARP mains bolts in now. Manual says 95nm. Instructions that came with the bolts says 70nm. But the kit is for a 302Windsor. 
 
So how tight should I go?

I'll have more of a look tomorrow when I am awake. Came off nightshift, so as sharp as a bowling ball at the moment.
 
This is the manifold, sans carb. Carb slips on perfectly as per the original pic, and all the holes line up. But not when I turn it 90deg.
 

The carby should have square pattern bores and I can see that it has dual bolt pattern to fit a spread or square manifold. However it seems that the manifold bolt holes are not configured to mount the carby east-west.

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this one is a square bore.. i assume your carby is spread bore(bigger secondaries?)

http://www.kustombitz.com/p/8930524/holley-square-bore-east-west-adaptor-open-plenum-4-barrel---aussiespeed.html

Carby arrived today!
 
Sweeeeeeet!
 

 

 
 
Fits perfectly this way, but I'll need an adapator plate to turn it the 90deg. If I wanted to run it the way it is now, I might need a spacer to move the manifold away from the head a bit for the choke to clear. Easy enough to make the linkages for it to work as per the photo below.
But even easier if it is turned.

 
 

the issue with it mounted this way is the primaries don't feed the ports evenly. 

Yes east west std cable will work north south use xg cable

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If you mount it east-west with primaries facing outwards, a carby 6 cyl cable should work, or be made to work.

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It just had a rebuild and comes with the tuning kit 👍

Finally managed to move from the manufacturing line I was on, with the amazingly crappy roster, to another part of the factory with a much better roster. I get 6 days off starting next Saturday, so will wait til then to put the motor back together, and then back into the ute.
 
Got more parts coming, and stocked up on the oils and fluids I'll need as well.

 
Lashed out.

 

 
This Gilmer setup was cheap, so I grabbed it.

I imagine I'll have to make a bracket for the accelerator cable to link up to the new carby.
Is it an XE V8 accelerator cable I need for the extra length?

try the current one first possibly
 
XE V8 depending on what year your XF is(can't remember yours off the top of My head) is long as it loops around the front of the carby on the V8
they changed i think around 1988? to E series* EB? ED ? (which would be plenty long for EB as the throttle is near the left headlight area)
 
BUT ... a lot of people use the 6cyl cable on V8s with a rear pull mechanism.. BUT yet another thing is how you mount the carby(sideways for eg) 
@CHESTNUTXE should know what he did with his XF ute and 4 barrel..  

The tuning kit is worth about a third of that (if the price is anything like the very similar Demon one I got)

Any pointers you might need with tuning, give me a hoy. I've messed with mine way too much to not know much about them.

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