Boingk

i just orderd the correct later gaskets ,only 28 bux delivered,i also cant belive how much a std performer manifold is,i bought one a year ago for $300 now they are about 440 plus,i wonder if trump gets bent over their dollar might take a nose dive ? then we can go crazy on the summit order of hot bits.

Looking good mate!
 
I wouldn't worry too much about the right gaskets for the heads, if your luck is anything like mine they'll be a less-than-stellar fit anyway.
 
Give some Permatex 'Ultra Grey' a go, its bloody great at oil and water seals and hasn't failed me yet - hell the whole sump of my crossflow is sealed with it as I had a tube starting to turn. Doesn't leak a damn drop!
 
Keep up the good stuff - boingk

got heaps done today ,heads are on ,rockers and pushrods,oiled up and all working good,here is an example of early 289,302,felpro gaskets,they sought of fit but are out on the water passage by about 2mm and 1mm on inlet ,could trim them if you had no choice but i will order the correct set for late heads.

yeah its so awsome having everything cleaned and oiled and ready for assembly ,time hammers when the stereo is cranking and lunch is cooked for you now hours to talk shit on here,also splurged out on a decent pan gasket 1 piece ,timing cover gasket set came too with seal to suit cover.

Hmmm........ might be a gap in the market there.?  
 
5.0 to Carby Roller block conversion kits.  All the gaskets you need, none you don't want. 
Could include ARP bolt kit. 

good question std i suppose,problem is when converting a roller block back too carby there is no special gasket kit as you need half and half of both new and old sets so i just buy them as i need them ,in the end works out about the same as a full kit,in the morning will fit next 4 pistons and oil pump,put heads on then wait till sump arrives,new timing cover and arp bolt set for waterpump and timing cover.

Good stuff mate, looking nice.
 
What thickness gaskets?

ok ol m8 gave me a bit more discount on the 400 so it looks like i will be owning it soon,man its a big motor.

Trying these detriot head gaskets

Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk

Praise the Lord of the rings

Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk

i didnt get a chance today to look at the cast date ect on the 400 ,but im a step closer to buying it as i sold my hyd 250 single rail set up and some other stuff on e bay,so batton down the hatches  as a 4 hundy could be cranking soon.

Good article on the build with Weiand Action+ and Holley for a 35hp gain, but not sure on the Procomps, I'm in the middle of this for my 302 Windsor. They just have too many poor reviews to justify the price. Bad valve seats, porosity, and valve issues sem to be the main dramas. I've also heard of poor valve guides and even bad machining, quite "nothing on these heads was straight or round".
 
 

It was a 219@50 / 505 lift, so probably a "Stage 3" or "3/4 Race Cam" by standards of days gone by. Here's the soundbite, shared before on page 2.
 
 

I looked up the 400M last night after reading this, deck clearance 0.067", later smog engines got 15cc dished piston & Cam retarded 6°, some of the heads up to 79cc chamber,
Watching the latest Engine Masters, mopar did similar things with the motorhome 440's they're pistons like are 0.100" down the bore.
Found a few articles from Richard Holdener of motortread group, around 2009/2010 did a few 400M build ups,
stock reco & with 4 barrel, Ford 400M Engine Rebuild - Hot Rod Network
with Procomp heads Pro Comp Head Test - Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords
also seen a stoker build with offset ground crank, 6.3 chev rod & 340 mopar piston,

beefy

It was a 219@50 / 505 lift, so probably a "Stage 3" or "3/4 Race Cam" by standards of days gone by. Here's the soundbite, shared before on page 2.
 
 

Agreed on all above. Throw a 4-barrel at it, likely a 750cfm Holley, sort the ignition and go from there.
 
I used an Elgin E-907-P camshaft in my last Clevo 351, it was only a cheap unit from the states but was a nice runner in a mildly modified engine. Very torquey everywhere and lovely idle lope. Much better midrange and topend than stock, too. It'd be a really good, civil daily driver with a bit of a temper when you put your foot down.
 
 - boingk

Agreed on all above. Throw a 4-barrel at it, likely a 750cfm Holley, sort the ignition and go from there.
 
I used an Elgin E-907-P camshaft in my last Clevo 351, it was only a cheap unit from the states but was a nice runner in a mildly modified engine. Very torquey everywhere and lovely idle lope. Much better midrange and topend than stock, too. It'd be a really good, civil daily driver with a bit of a temper when you put your foot down.
 
 - boingk

I've read a lot about them too, part of that drop in power could come from changing from gross to net output, ie: gross is just the engine in a perfect environment with headers (no manifolds), accessories, water pump vs the net rating with all the factory shit installed as it would be in the car.

Early ones threw out some rarities like factory 4 barrel manifolds and smallblock bellhousing patterns.

Later ones were strangled by emissions, had air injection from 75 onwards to suit cats. Ignition and cam timing retarded, Motorcraft 2 barrel pea shooter. You could swap in simple things like 4 barrel, proper cam timing, bump up the ignition timing and probably gain 50 HP just there.

Comp was the other hurdle, and really the only easy way to tackle that is to get the pistons closer to the deck. They are seriously light years down the bore, and together with the open chambers, gave pathetic compression. High 7s on the later ones. I reckon I could squeeze a fart harder than that.

I wouldn't worry too much about the exhaust bump in the port. That's the least of your worries I reckon.

Decoding the part numbers will be very interesting. Likely to be out of a truck though, unless the whole car came here with it installed. The number will be something like D7TE if it was out of an F-series, or D7AE if out of a full-size car.

Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

Track boss ford 400 flat top piston set from teymer  $440 us dollar hmmmmmmmm🤒

Depends on what you're using it for, but just remember CFM = HP.

So if you've got a stump-puller that peaks torque at 2500 and makes around 300hp but runs out of puff before 5000, a 600 would suffice. But if you go putting 4V heads on, roller cam, single plane manifold and spin it to 6500+ then a 850 or bigger is in order.

I would love to have a play with one of these and shove it in a box Falcon as a torque monster with nice tall gearing. I'd really love to feel the torque in a relatively light body just effortlessly surging along without even breaking a sweat.

Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

If you got the 400 at .030 over and chucked a cheap set of valve-relief pistons in it (assuming 8cc dish equivalent) the thing would be about 11.3 to 1 compression if you used 302C closed chamber heads. 

How much will you have to take off to get them to zero? You have to factor in pushrod length once this is done. Having to buy new custom length pushrods might be false economy over getting the right piston. Also port alignment on inlet manifold would be affected. 
If using open chamber heads, zero deck means nothing. You only do it with closed chamber heads to tighten up the quench area and give better turbulence.
 
Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
 
 
 

Should be able to, yeah. If the assembly for the XH diff looks anything like this, with a rectangular pattern on the end, then you should be set. You can check it easily enough by measuring anyway.
 
See the flange on the outside of the axle bearing? It bolts through the drum housing and into the flange on the end of the diff.
 

I've done this in a rush job to get on the road for Drag Challenge. Worked a treat for over 3000km and is still fine. I used the same "solid-disc flat-flange" on my XF ute. It was also a 3.27 LSD unit as it happens.
 
Use a 1 1/16" (IIRC) socket on the pinion bolt of your current diff and this will release the flange. Now install the flange to your new diff and you will be able to retain the stock-type tailshaft with its uni-joint simply held in by straps and bolts. I used my stock tailshaft no problems using this method.
 
The handbrake cable fit just fine (I converted the discs back to drums) and by keeping the drums I didn't have to worry about the brake lines, either. Note that the drums may be rotated 90 degrees to stock fitment so the cable pulls upward and not forward. This actually helped me as my stock cables were very stretched and this arrangement took up enough slack to give me a properly working handbrake. You beauty!
 
This is a good swap as you'll gain a better rear ratio for performance and also 28 spline versus (likely) 25 spline axles. 
 
I'd advise fitting a new pinion seal while you're in there as mine ended up leaking a bit after the flange change.
 
Cheers - boingk