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deankdx last won the day on December 6

deankdx had the most liked content!


About deankdx

  • Rank
    photographic memory of every x series problem i had

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  • Location
    pushing a broken pulsar.. East Melbourne
  • Interests
    x series falcons (Gemini owner currently)

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  1. deankdx

    Inertia reel seatbelt repair?

    yeah the old belts like BGDAVs F100(XC era) needed this clean with proper soap, silicone won't do it. it's unlikely that ball/locking mech from my experience. this has worked for 100% of my locking/retracting issues. even if the belts are stuffed with frayed edges it's still the fix for the retracting/locking issue. if they are frayed, you can get them re webbed it's called, be nice on a full resto, but a resurrection like you have i'd be doing the minimum for the short term
  2. deankdx

    Inertia reel seatbelt repair?

    if the belts themselves are stiff from sitting/dirt etc it may pay to wash them. i've done it in the past by just undoing the top bolt on the B pillar(shoulder height bolt) you might want to remove the pillar trim, there's sometimes a rubbery patch thing that falls in the path of the belt behind there(think it's meant to stop dust getting in the pillar where the reel lives) if you do remove the reel also, they are very fiddly to get back unlocked if you let it reel all the way in. they need to be perfectly level horizontally and vertically. made much harder when it's reeled ALL the belt in.. need to slowly jiggle the belt to unlock it.. ah fun times. and bringing a bucket of warm water and 2 towels you don't care about anymore(they'll get filthy and may not come clean) with some of your favourite clothes washing powder (Aldi Almat, or omo etc) put a table spoon of washing power in your bucket of water, reel out the belt as long as you can, and wash it in the bucket, sometimes they are really gunky and may need a scrub with scourer/brush also. basically wash the belt as best you can.. wipe it with one towel till it's not transferring grime.. then you can get some clean water to rinse it.. and dry off with the other towel. don't wear a white T shirt for a while lol .. they'll probably still be dirty and a little damp, lucky in this weather they should dry fairly fast when extended out (remaining bolted to to the pillar at the bottom is your best chance to be able to have them unlock again. reason it's not locking now is it can't react quick enough due to being stiff belts in my opinion. they can be rewebbed/reconditioned but it's expensive. normally isn't needed. some people lubricate the belts with silicon spray, i don't..
  3. deankdx

    Door Glass Scratches.

    i have seen ads for glass restoration, can't remember now also saw NEW door glass for utes last week but be sitting down for the price https://glass4classics.com.au/product/xa-xb-xc-ford-ute-van-all-side-windows-new-glass/
  4. deankdx

    Heater/blower fan slow in 3rd speed

    voltage may still be fine with a dirty switch, but it might not handle the current, just try switch it back and forth 20 times or so. might work, might break it possibly. i'd assume XH is same, not 100% sure. same goes for XF
  5. deankdx

    Heater/blower fan slow in 3rd speed

    switch itself could be dirty also.. could spray some CRC/WD40 in it and turn it on/off 50 times and see if it comes good
  6. deankdx

    Heater/blower fan slow in 3rd speed

    i would only assume it can be the wire possibly half shorting out or cut through to one strand? screw from stereo screwed through it? not something i've seen before..
  7. deankdx


    ah, not ideal
  8. deankdx


    heaps of times 302 closed chamber heads have been relieved to drop compression ratio, most modern head shops with a CNC program probably have a click an walk away program to do it.
  9. deankdx

    XF AU Windsor conversion

  10. deankdx

    Surface rust - What should I do?

    i've never used the grinder wire wheels but @2redrovers probably has(not sure how aggressive/overkill they'd be there. i'm a bit bodgy, most of My repairs are good for 12 months to 5yrs(usually as long as i keep a car.. mainly because i've seen rust come back in professional repaired cars i've bought in similar time, so i care a lot less for My work, just redo it again) so for me, knowing the rest is also about to fall off, i'd be just patching it asap, in a quick and easy repair. wire wheel the loose rust off, rust converter.. (i like the ones you brush on after its' been wet with water, then turns black) then spray some primer filler, sand with 400 for a reasonable finish on the white paint. i think at some point you'll get to clean metal with the wire wheel. if so, stop there. but if you end up wire wheeling the whole panel looking for shiny metal it's probably not a bad thing, depends how much work you want to do RIGHT NOW..
  11. deankdx

    Surface rust - What should I do?

    definitely DON'T leave it alone. it will get worse. it looks to have been repaired/painted poorly in the past, original paint doesn't fall off like that. at minimum, get a wire brush on a drill (or spend a while with a hand one) and treat it with rust converter then primer and some white paint. (looks like Stark white) is it only that 1/4 panel? maybe it was replaced, if it's the whole car you will be looking at stripping the whole car back later..
  12. deankdx

    XF AU Windsor conversion

    i can only answer the tail shaft confidently. for the EF diff flange, you'll need an EB to EL FALCON sedan shaft (not fairlane/ltd) auto and manual are the same (some manuals had a big balance weight lump of steel on the gearbox end but it's not seemingly to be a standard thing and definitely not needed) .. so in short EB to EL FALCON Sedan tailshaft ***note for the rest of the tailshafts late XF(1991 ish) ute and XH XH are longer, same length as fairlane, LTD and wagons. so not suitable for sedan (XA- EL)
  13. deankdx

    T5- crossflow bellhousing

    E series 6 cyl one here https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/866910377342838/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A914e15d2-1e4b-4333-a3ba-e9a5a8ca84ff
  14. deankdx

    T5- crossflow bellhousing

    inside? holding the fork/pivot pin. V8 or 6 cyl? i just found this pic on facebook of the V8 one, 6cyl is just a stud like the single rail from memory? https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/608628083475246/
  15. deankdx

    Holley Spreadbore 650 double pumper

    not sure, the 302 clevo manifold is not opened up though in the larger throats, for some reason.. it makes me wonder if i had the 302 manifold still?(4 barrel still) he originally said to get a rochester/quadraject if wanted it to be properly legal and tuned brilliantly (by him) he used to send people with thermoquads elsewhere.. too much time to sort them out properly.