ando76

Crossflow powered cars first and third in the 2019 Queensland Modified Sedan Title. 
 
Mighty Clarko's Performance XE came home first, FG Falcon 2nd and Shallcross Cortina 3rd. FORD podium  lock out.  Yahoo. 
 
Long live the mighty crossflow. 
 

Cheers mate. Not getting much time on it but trying to change that.

Yeah. Compact, pretty robust and FORD stud pattern. 

It has a Mitsubishi l300 front end welded on. Cortina rack with lengthened rack ends. Ken did it all in the bush with a tape and a welder. 
 
She definitely steers way way better now. 

It has a Mitsubishi l300 front end welded on. Cortina rack with lengthened rack ends. Ken did it all in the bush with a tape and a welder. 
 
She definitely steers way way better now. 

CLEVOLET

It has a Mitsubishi l300 front end welded on. Cortina rack with lengthened rack ends. Ken did it all in the bush with a tape and a welder. 
 
She definitely steers way way better now. 

On a positive note I got it to actually steer. Have a look at the before and after alignment figures.

Many neglect this most basic of things, but every car needs to have the alignment correct for the application.


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Sadly I have to admit defeat. The convertor/flexplate in the truck is the old ball c6/c10 - 11.5 bolt circle. No one has a convertor on the shelf to suit the application. 
 
I could change to the 10.5 bolt circle and get an off the shelf convertor to do the job but then the new flexplate will have to be balanced, it could cause starter issues, and I'm still not convinced that the box isn't damaged. 
 
I've since found out the current convertor is a re-use after the box had an issue and it wasn't cleaned out. I suspect that there could be crap thru the the rebuilt box, new trans cooler etc etc.  
 
The call has been made.  I'm going to park it until I can confirm the gear box condition, get a suitable convertor built and re-dyno him. Too much risk in just sending it. Others would, but not me. Too much time and money at risk, for zero reward. There is another show a month later. We will aim for that. 
 
 

On a positive note I got it to actually steer. Have a look at the before and after alignment figures.

Many neglect this most basic of things, but every car needs to have the alignment correct for the application.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Sadly I have to admit defeat. The convertor/flexplate in the truck is the old ball c6/c10 - 11.5 bolt circle. No one has a convertor on the shelf to suit the application. 
 
I could change to the 10.5 bolt circle and get an off the shelf convertor to do the job but then the new flexplate will have to be balanced, it could cause starter issues, and I'm still not convinced that the box isn't damaged. 
 
I've since found out the current convertor is a re-use after the box had an issue and it wasn't cleaned out. I suspect that there could be crap thru the the rebuilt box, new trans cooler etc etc.  
 
The call has been made.  I'm going to park it until I can confirm the gear box condition, get a suitable convertor built and re-dyno him. Too much risk in just sending it. Others would, but not me. Too much time and money at risk, for zero reward. There is another show a month later. We will aim for that. 
 
 

Sadly I have to admit defeat. The convertor/flexplate in the truck is the old ball c6/c10 - 11.5 bolt circle. No one has a convertor on the shelf to suit the application. 
 
I could change to the 10.5 bolt circle and get an off the shelf convertor to do the job but then the new flexplate will have to be balanced, it could cause starter issues, and I'm still not convinced that the box isn't damaged. 
 
I've since found out the current convertor is a re-use after the box had an issue and it wasn't cleaned out. I suspect that there could be crap thru the the rebuilt box, new trans cooler etc etc.  
 
The call has been made.  I'm going to park it until I can confirm the gear box condition, get a suitable convertor built and re-dyno him. Too much risk in just sending it. Others would, but not me. Too much time and money at risk, for zero reward. There is another show a month later. We will aim for that. 
 
 

OGUN did hit the dyno on Saturday, but sadly it appears the convertor is junk. Was fine in the shed skid but as soon as real load was put on it, it went south. 
 
Praying we can get a convetor in time for Northern Nats on the 3rd, 4th & 5th May. The tune is close enough and with the in-car afr gauge running the same as the dyno gauge - I'm happy to run it and log everything and tune at the track. 
 
I love modified cars.......

OGUN did hit the dyno on Saturday, but sadly it appears the convertor is junk. Was fine in the shed skid but as soon as real load was put on it, it went south. 
 
Praying we can get a convetor in time for Northern Nats on the 3rd, 4th & 5th May. The tune is close enough and with the in-car afr gauge running the same as the dyno gauge - I'm happy to run it and log everything and tune at the track. 
 
I love modified cars.......

Put the inner springs in after camshaft run in.  OGUN has had a bit of an update in the  ignition department and a 1 gauge and o2 sensor and gauge. 
 
Couldn't get on the dyno for a bit so put a base line tune into it and gave it a quick test hit to monitor systems and see if any issues arose. Happy to report all went well, although the shifter needs a position indicator. Thank god for rev limiters and isky valve springs.  
 
Enjoy the vid.  Dyno soon. 

I drove it on the road on Saturday. It has old McCreary Dirt (flat track) bias ply tyres on the back.  Cool as f..k but it gets seriously squirrelly when the stall hits. 
 
Dyno is happening next week. It feels strong, the big stall should rob some numbers on the dyno but I'm keen to see what it rolls up. 

Yep. Just need to improve the efficiency of the head and wind up the boost. But hey, each to their own!!!!

I drove it on the road on Saturday. It has old McCreary Dirt (flat track) bias ply tyres on the back.  Cool as f..k but it gets seriously squirrelly when the stall hits. 
 
Dyno is happening next week. It feels strong, the big stall should rob some numbers on the dyno but I'm keen to see what it rolls up. 

Yep. Just need to improve the efficiency of the head and wind up the boost. But hey, each to their own!!!!

I drove it on the road on Saturday. It has old McCreary Dirt (flat track) bias ply tyres on the back.  Cool as f..k but it gets seriously squirrelly when the stall hits. 
 
Dyno is happening next week. It feels strong, the big stall should rob some numbers on the dyno but I'm keen to see what it rolls up. 

I'm struggling to understand why anyone would make an already undersquare engine even more so. Maybe more off-boost torque? Crank harmonics would also get worse with smaller journals and less overlap. Hardly worth the trouble if you ask me.

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Make your mind up!! 300RWHP aspo will cost serious dollars and in no way will you then be able to take that engine and add boost. If you think you can - your dreaming. Pure and simple. 
 
If you want boost, build it for boost straight away.  I have many customers who run boost and run fast reliable times with near stock components.  They have a good combination of parts, good tune and it works. 
 
You need to make up your mind and stick to the plan or your in for a world of hurt. Both will cost dollars to do properly. Both will cost even more if you chop and change and try and make NA change to boost. 

Make your mind up!! 300RWHP aspo will cost serious dollars and in no way will you then be able to take that engine and add boost. If you think you can - your dreaming. Pure and simple. 
 
If you want boost, build it for boost straight away.  I have many customers who run boost and run fast reliable times with near stock components.  They have a good combination of parts, good tune and it works. 
 
You need to make up your mind and stick to the plan or your in for a world of hurt. Both will cost dollars to do properly. Both will cost even more if you chop and change and try and make NA change to boost. 

Make your mind up!! 300RWHP aspo will cost serious dollars and in no way will you then be able to take that engine and add boost. If you think you can - your dreaming. Pure and simple. 
 
If you want boost, build it for boost straight away.  I have many customers who run boost and run fast reliable times with near stock components.  They have a good combination of parts, good tune and it works. 
 
You need to make up your mind and stick to the plan or your in for a world of hurt. Both will cost dollars to do properly. Both will cost even more if you chop and change and try and make NA change to boost. 

Make your mind up!! 300RWHP aspo will cost serious dollars and in no way will you then be able to take that engine and add boost. If you think you can - your dreaming. Pure and simple. 
 
If you want boost, build it for boost straight away.  I have many customers who run boost and run fast reliable times with near stock components.  They have a good combination of parts, good tune and it works. 
 
You need to make up your mind and stick to the plan or your in for a world of hurt. Both will cost dollars to do properly. Both will cost even more if you chop and change and try and make NA change to boost.