Free.51

Update took the pipie back to Luke & swapped it for one that went the route that i wanted & managed to only just yesterday get the fitting screwed into the steering box & i used Dean's trick with the ring end of the spanner & kind of manipulated the pipe to the correct angle so that i was able to screw the fitting in & im happy to say that eveything is all in place all tight & there are no leaks woohoooo😁. Thanks for everbody's help much appreciated 👍👍.

Update took the pipie back to Luke & swapped it for one that went the route that i wanted & managed to only just yesterday get the fitting screwed into the steering box & i used Dean's trick with the ring end of the spanner & kind of manipulated the pipe to the correct angle so that i was able to screw the fitting in & im happy to say that eveything is all in place all tight & there are no leaks woohoooo😁. Thanks for everbody's help much appreciated 👍👍.

Yes, closed chamber. Open would be a complete circle. Closed has those "ledges" which create a very small gap between them and the top of the piston. As the piston comes up, it squeezes the mixture out of these spaces and into the cavity to be burnt more completely.

The terms "swirl" and "quench" are used to describe what this effect does in comparison to what happens with a simple open chamber. Swirl promotes more complete combustion. Quench is the effect of the moving gases equalising chamber temps and eliminating hot spots.

Those numbers on the pistons don't really say much. Only way to tell is to measure the pistons or the bore.

A stock piston will be bang on 4.000", whereas the accepted limit on a clevo will be 4.030". Some have gone 40 over but that would be on an exceptional block. Most are too thin.

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Arrow is an Aussie design cast in China, not sure if machined there or over here. Available in 4.0 or 4.125 bores, siamesed, very beefy around the mains, probably comparable to a Dart 9.2 Windsor, possibly cheaper with the dollar how it is at the moment.

They had early issues with some inclusions and air pockets (in non-critical areas) but the best thing about them is they can be punched out to some serious cubics.

Arrow... More deadly than a "Dart" (geddit?)

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If i ever have a rich Uncle die, and leave me a fortune, might order one for my '50 Merc 2door.......
 
https://www.pavtek.com.au/index.php/component/content/article/7-parts-a-products/parts-a-products/236-new-ford-cleveland-aftermarket-block
 
 

i watched the news today, 
they said you don't NEED to go into a centerlink office(queue out the door and down the street in some places, due to less staff for the social distance rule)
you can do it all online, including getting the CRN (customer reference number) and it will backdate today if needed. even if you do it in a few days.
on Friday Centerlink could only handle 5000 people online at once, today that was raised to 55,000. and it was still packed. so .. you might need to choose a best time/day to apply.
 

Just finished taking the broken pipe out

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Just finished taking the broken pipe out

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Yeah my other ones are 11mm too Bear but the last one on the bottom on the drivers side near the firewall has a 14mm head on the bolt

The 11mm ones are actually 7/16" and are aftermarket bolts specific to this application. The factory size ones are 9/16" or 14mm. Thread is 3/8" UNC.

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My extractor bolts are 11mm, PITA to get the one next to the firewall, but its doable with a combination spanner. 

Yeah i unscrewed the fitting from the steering box yesterday, its the top bit where the pirtek guy welded the fitting to the pipe that snapped clean off. Yeah changing spark plugs & doing extractor bolts on the drivers side bank with a v8 is a pain in the arse, cant get a ratchet & socket on no 4 spark plug cos the Power steering line (suprise suprise) is in the way so have to get creative with a socket & a little extension & use multi grips to undo the spark plug, & use a cut down 14mm open ended spanner on the bottom extractor bolt cos otherwise your hitting the firewall.

I changed the ps to manual steering in my ZL to quickly pass rwc cos i was impatient haha. I didnt really like it cos it was hard to reverse park it & parallel park but was good when the car was in motion.

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Yeah i unscrewed the fitting from the steering box yesterday, its the top bit where the pirtek guy welded the fitting to the pipe that snapped clean off. Yeah changing spark plugs & doing extractor bolts on the drivers side bank with a v8 is a pain in the arse, cant get a ratchet & socket on no 4 spark plug cos the Power steering line (suprise suprise) is in the way so have to get creative with a socket & a little extension & use multi grips to undo the spark plug, & use a cut down 14mm open ended spanner on the bottom extractor bolt cos otherwise your hitting the firewall.

I changed the ps to manual steering in my ZL to quickly pass rwc cos i was impatient haha. I didnt really like it cos it was hard to reverse park it & parallel park but was good when the car was in motion.

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I can't have oil leaks... I've only got one left 🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬

this is another reason i liked the crossflow engine .. clevo was such an asshole to work on anything. 
i almost fitted a manual steering box, and if i had another Xseries car i'd do this as soon as i had power steering issues.. sick of them .

i can't explain enough to @BGDAV how many times i leave a small leak Vs trying to fix it (or paying someone else to) only for it to break something or make it worse..
hopefully can get the broken bit out of the box if thats what you broke

Yes its a skill in itself👍,
 
Hahahaha

I just fitted my reco steer box and can confirm how hard it is to line up the flare tube and nut to the top of the box while fighting with the hard line.
 
You just have to give the tube a firm tweak to get the angle right (that's what she said)
 
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Fucken hell mate, did you run over a Chinese bloke or something... I haven't ever seen this much power steering-related bad luck

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Yeah i have them P clamps too Gerg bolted to the engine base plates👍😊

Yeah I routed my return line in a completely different way, and I installed P-clamps to secure the steel line to the crossmember as it was rubbing on the inner tie rod end.

Mods could we cut/paste this topic in a new thread? This has useful info that some may want to find later. Cheers

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Yep me too Dean, last nov i think it was one of my trans cooler lines the metal line was rubbing against the sump & put a hole in it so replaced that then 28 days ago this fri coming the rubber hose off the high pressure line was rubbing against the edge of the torque box for who knows how long.....(put the line in it in 2012 wasnt doing it then) & put a hole in it

I noticed today something i forgot to do mon arvo was zip tie the pipes to the crossmember, i noticed a kink in the hardline & i have no doubt that this is why the return hose failed yesterday bcos the pipes on the passenger side were hanging out a bit & when turning left the steering arm has bloody ripped into the return line & kinked the hardline. I put zip ties on this arvo though to keep the lines as cloe to the crossmember as possible.

awesome! had this also.. rubbing on something till it rubbed through, also had a car that had the pipe rubbed through(metal rubbing on metal for years )
 

All fixed now & no leaks.......hallefuckenlujah

All fixed now & no leaks.......hallefuckenlujah