Ando81

LEGEND!! And that is what a good forum is all about, genuine blokes trying to help each other out. We are so lucky on this forum coz some other forums are all just negative crap and blokes having a pi$$ing competition to see who is better than the other ☹️

LEGEND!! And that is what a good forum is all about, genuine blokes trying to help each other out. We are so lucky on this forum coz some other forums are all just negative crap and blokes having a pi$$ing competition to see who is better than the other ☹️

LEGEND!! And that is what a good forum is all about, genuine blokes trying to help each other out. We are so lucky on this forum coz some other forums are all just negative crap and blokes having a pi$$ing competition to see who is better than the other ☹️

LEGEND!! And that is what a good forum is all about, genuine blokes trying to help each other out. We are so lucky on this forum coz some other forums are all just negative crap and blokes having a pi$$ing competition to see who is better than the other ☹️

LEGEND!! And that is what a good forum is all about, genuine blokes trying to help each other out. We are so lucky on this forum coz some other forums are all just negative crap and blokes having a pi$$ing competition to see who is better than the other ☹️

LEGEND!! And that is what a good forum is all about, genuine blokes trying to help each other out. We are so lucky on this forum coz some other forums are all just negative crap and blokes having a pi$$ing competition to see who is better than the other ☹️

Flying into Queenstown on wednesday next week. If you get a cam before then I can bring it over for ya.

I'll weigh in a little bit, I've been successful rebuilding a few lsd's, my method is to measure the width of the cones then machine the flat face on the cones but not the housing after taking some material off measure the width and add that amount to the shims + 010- 015", at least 3 of the lsd's I've done this to have lasted more than 100,000ks, of course you can shim them up to a higher pressure but they won't last as long

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

The one out of the wags.....
 
There's nothing really wrong with it save for the fact that it's 3.27 (too short) and it's a single spinner. It's quiet as a mouse and is clean as a whistle inside.
 

 
Oh except....

 
Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
 
 
 
 

I'm pretty sure that if each axle spins independently by hand, the cones will have a hard time biting without any pre-load. If and when they do, they'll engage with a thump and could do so randomly, making for interesting handling and also risk breaking something.

So if you need a bit more pre-load, you need to determine where the wear has occurred. If either the cones or the housing have worn, the cones and side (axle) gears will sit further out from the spider gears, giving more backlash. You can shim between the side gear and the cone (equally each side) to move them further into mesh with the spider, and also get some pre-load back, but only up to a point. If the cones and housing are worn far enough, the outer face of the cone will bottom out on the housing, preventing the tapered part from engaging. Diff shops will machine the housing and cone to get clearance again, but this is out side the scope of a driveway rebuild.

If there is excessive wear in the diff centre gears, but the cones and housing are OK, then you have a problem. Shimming up will take up some slack, but then you're increasing pre-load in the springs to a point where you're stressing everything beyond what it can handle. I'm of the belief that this is what happened when I did up the last LSD centre that Chernobyled itself without me even driving like a dickhead. I shimmed the side gears/cones to take up the backlash but I think the prepaid was way too much. I heard a massive bang once going around a corner, wondered what the fuck it was. Turns out, it sheared all the 5/16" bolts around the hemisphere so that the 2 halves were only held together by the carrier bearings. When both cones are firmly engaged, the torque difference between the axles passes through these pissy little bolts and it was too much. The sheared halves of the bolts all came off and floated around the housing and somehow didn't jam anything (well not the first time)... I'll go into that later though.

So to get the backlash out without screwing up your pre-load, you can shim up the spider gears by doubling up the thrust washer (or maybe there are selective thickness ones?). I'm about to find out on mine. I don't think that open centre gears will transfer over to an LSD centre because LSD gears have a special slope built into the tooth profile that's designed to create end thrust under torque, pushing the gears apart and forcing the cones to engage. I think they wear out teeth more rapidly because of this.

So: gear teeth wear, cones should have the spiral groove still in them, housing should have an air gap between it and the end of the cone (visible through a small window). Don't pull the 2 housings together with these bolts. Squeeze them together in a vice or press and do up the bolts evenly. Cheers Dean that clears things up. Vented rotors definitely drop off after unbolting calipers. Yeah the ute that the 3.27 solid rotor diff came out of I thought was XF but it was picked clean of everything else so could have been XG.

Good move to pop the hat off. Best to be Irish and to be sure to be sure

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

Anything in particular I should be looking for in an lsd diff? I’m an lsd addict only commodores spin a single wheel

Cheers, stored in shed should be a lot better off than out in the elements (that fucks anything) but always pull the hat off and check internals, carrier and pinion noise/free play, tooth contact (with some spray paint), tooth chips, any bits sitting in the bottom that shouldn't be there (I'll go into that one later ) as it's cheap insurance.

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

Great write up mate and a good heads up for blokes like me who have had a diff sitting in the shed for 5 years waiting to be installed. I’ll be sure to check out for signs of crusty bits inside any diff before installing it into my cars. Of course I’d be checking brake parts for corrosion but probably would have just checked diff oil level and put it to work, now I’ll give it a good going over beforehand. Thanks for sharing your knowledge

Great write up mate and a good heads up for blokes like me who have had a diff sitting in the shed for 5 years waiting to be installed. I’ll be sure to check out for signs of crusty bits inside any diff before installing it into my cars. Of course I’d be checking brake parts for corrosion but probably would have just checked diff oil level and put it to work, now I’ll give it a good going over beforehand. Thanks for sharing your knowledge

I've scoured our forum looking for a thread on the topic and couldn't find any, so I thought I'd start one.
 
I pulled the hat off the one kindly donated to me by Ando76 and found a bit of a surprise inside. After sitting around my yard for a while plus however long before, it's got some terminal corrosion on the gears. This is quite a setback as the thing seemed to turn OK when I received it. I was only counting on a fresh pinion seal and maybe axle bearings/seals and away I go. It's very sludgy inside, carrier bearings were locked up which made it difficult to remove the axle flange bolts: you can't turn the axles so you can't line up the little window to put a socket through with a rattle gun. All this festiness could just be from sitting collecting moisture in the last year or so.
 
After pulling it down further, I split the centre and found some shims behind the cones, not uncommon but these were quite worn and heat-affected. It could have been setup tight for speedway use so I'll be checking the pre-load and spider mesh on it on assembly. The cones seem OK, bit of corrosion inside the taper where they sit but I think are salvageable. Being a 28-spline unit, the axles and centre are worth hanging on to, but i'm fraid the rest is toast. The calipers, discs, gears, bearings are all too far gone.
 
The brakes seem to be an early disc setup (from say an XC) with vented discs/iron calipers. The axle flanges have a different shape to my current arrangement and are possibly incompatible with my non-vented, alloy caliper type from an XF ute.
 
So my plan is to:
 
* Source some early 2.92 gears
* Strip my housing with the 3.27/open/25 splines
* Use that housing with the 2.92/LSD/28 splines
* Install new bearings and seals throughout.
 
Early gears refers to the size of the ring gear bolts: from what I've read, early one had 3/8" LH thread Vs later 7/16" (possibly XD-onwards?). I have the diff in the coupe with 2.92s so I could strip that out. First I might see what a diff shop charges or an old set, might be easier that way.
 
Some pics so far:
 
Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
 
 

That’s similar to what my xe did Jack, right before the poo started running down my leg. I heard it kind of pop then the wheezing sound every time the pedal was depressed. Maybe yours is leaking slightly

That’s similar to what my xe did Jack, right before the poo started running down my leg. I heard it kind of pop then the wheezing sound every time the pedal was depressed. Maybe yours is leaking slightly

Great thread mate, very informative and handy for anyone keen to do a bit of diy. I still remember my xe falcon shitting a diaphragm one day on the way to a speedway meet, made the trip very exciting driving to the track with loaded car trailer and a boot full of spares. I almost needed both feet on the brake pedal to pull her up at times

They always let go at the worst time. Mine was one of the dreaded plastic EF ones that split where the master bolts on. It showed its ugly head pulling up to a set of lights in traffic on the way home. I had nowhere to go and after stomping the shit out of the pedal, had to swerve onto the median strip (Carlisle ave, Mt Druitt) , which was lucky because if it was any other road without a median strip I would have rammed someone up the arse. I babied it straight to the Ford wreckers to get another one. They knew exactly what had happened when I told them and sure enough, when I pulled it off, there was the crack.

Great thread by the way. Loving the DIY

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

Great thread mate, very informative and handy for anyone keen to do a bit of diy. I still remember my xe falcon shitting a diaphragm one day on the way to a speedway meet, made the trip very exciting driving to the track with loaded car trailer and a boot full of spares. I almost needed both feet on the brake pedal to pull her up at times

Great thread mate, very informative and handy for anyone keen to do a bit of diy. I still remember my xe falcon shitting a diaphragm one day on the way to a speedway meet, made the trip very exciting driving to the track with loaded car trailer and a boot full of spares. I almost needed both feet on the brake pedal to pull her up at times

Bloke at work offered me an xf efi motor the other day and I considered putting it into my xf sedan that’s currently carb fed but I think it’s more hassle than it’s worth adding the extra bits to get the efi working. I might put the later crank in it being it’s an 86 block and gain the extra 30kw some other way than efi. It doesn’t get driven much so maybe a really lumpy cam would be the way to go. I hope your problems get sorted soon mate, it’s frustrating me and I am not paying the mechanics

Bloke at work offered me an xf efi motor the other day and I considered putting it into my xf sedan that’s currently carb fed but I think it’s more hassle than it’s worth adding the extra bits to get the efi working. I might put the later crank in it being it’s an 86 block and gain the extra 30kw some other way than efi. It doesn’t get driven much so maybe a really lumpy cam would be the way to go. I hope your problems get sorted soon mate, it’s frustrating me and I am not paying the mechanics

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F271822786042 Is this any good to you? I wasn’t sure if it was the same or not

Here's a CAD Alloy XFlow header flange for anyone who wants to make their own manifold. I've got it at 12mm thick for turbo manifolds. I've also got a dxf file to send directly to laser cutters to save coin having it formatted. PM me and I can email it.

 
Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk