Ando81

Agree with what's been stated already, I used to drive a TF Corty and the fuel bill was high, but the 2 litre went like stink.!  Prob be easier? to rebuild the 1300....  
Cost of finding/repairing a Pinto, versus 1300 with Gas tank install..??
 
289 Windsor, shortened 9 inch..  
 
Whoops, sorry.  😉

Thanks for the input lads, after talking to a few people about my consumption figures and everything else it does I will probably leave it as it is for now. I might take it away for a fishing weekend soon and see how consumption improves with highway travel. I’ve got new plugs and leads to put on it but can’t really justify adding MSD to it as I’ve heard it can get expensive.

working that out on 100km it's 15 litres. that's pretty normal for a mild crossflow. 
 
when i was in Geelong i'd use Lister Automotive, Sean(shuan?)  used to do it back then, no idea what they are like these days,  but he was pretty cluey with crossflows(wanted to fit delco ecu from a holden on My worked crossflow back in the day, because it was tunable and cheap)

i'd say economy wise it's not going to get any better.. power wise depends what's done now, 
Lpg on straight gas benefits from more initial timing and same total(so most mobs lock the dizzy mechanical advance, and crank it up to 27 ish base timing. )
tuning the mixer isn't something that takes long, so you might benefit from dyno tune  as it' would cost 1hr on dyno if there are no issues $150 -$200 
they'd want it to be serviced recently, no point tuning on worn out leads and plugs etc.
 
 

could get a o2 wideband and tune your self would cost alot less i think 

there is a spring that breaks in them, usually will see it won't lock or locks itself with the snipper button.
 
i don't think it will affect the door latching.. the mechanism could be full of dusty grease, i washed mine out in petrol and the door worked as new on the side with the good spring, i swapped a spring from an e series one on the other. 

when i needed to buy them for My XG, i went to wreckers and got E series ones. from rear doors (less worn)
 

use E series Rear ones(fronts are same, but worn out) if you go to wreckers. 
so EA EB ED EF EL.. the latch assy is same as the E series fronts i think also in the door other than the rods that attach 

Thanks Gerg, this is exactly what it’s doing. It just annoys me that it sounds like a clapped out old crossflow on start up. Everything is fine at operating temp so like you said probably just a bit of crap allowing it to drain out overnight. I can leave it for my 8 hour shift at work and it starts fine but once I’ve turned it off and it sits for 12 hours or more then it becomes noisy. Maybe the crap will become free one day and it will be all good again

Crossflows were built for boost.
 
 
 
 

Why did you hate your Clevo.?  I've had heaps of them, and always walked away with a chubby.  

That's the coolant bypass passage, that leads to the thermostat restrictor plate.
Who assembled the engine originally?
 

Territory steelies can look ok.

I’m wondering if the pistons are 6-8cc pistons, not 6-8thou.

I’m wondering if the pistons are 6-8cc pistons, not 6-8thou.

Great to hear you found the problem mate. There’s always plenty of help on here to resolve annoying little issues

Investigators want to know why you changed pushrods

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a couple pics of Tony's N/a 250 leaving the line on its way to 10.90 👍🏻👌🏻💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻

Hey buddy cheers for the help,

Iv decided on this for the build.

1. Rip motor out, spray engine bay (silver) and tidy up the motor, install a mild cam, refurb the carby. Then I will be installing a 2500 hi stall and change diff gears or swap out the diff to a XG. Also add a quick shift. Once all done put motor back in and install and exhaust system. Then get the car dyno tuned. Touch up paint like what dean said, use a touch up pen for the scratches, also spray the rear bumper, front bumper etc.

2. Save up enough cash and respray the car.
I have decided on leaving the interior unless someone can fix the huge hole in the seat.

3. Figure out new rims and tyres, either want 19" globes or like the boys said before, (forgot what size rims) I think they said 15x5 front and 15x8 rear not to sure. Obviously globes.

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Mate, I don’t want to sound like a boring old man but those globes suit it fine in my opinion. With a bit of polish on the alloy they would look sexy as hell. But that’s just my opinion

yeah if i had My way i'd go with 15x7 globes on the front and 15x10 globes on the rear with a shortened diff.. 
 
but it's your car. unless you have big brakes that need 17s, i'd keep 15s with fat sidewalls on the tyre.. but ... i'm old .. (old enough to know better? i drive a gemini... )
 

Mate, I don’t want to sound like a boring old man but those globes suit it fine in my opinion. With a bit of polish on the alloy they would look sexy as hell. But that’s just my opinion

Mate, I don’t want to sound like a boring old man but those globes suit it fine in my opinion. With a bit of polish on the alloy they would look sexy as hell. But that’s just my opinion

Mate, I don’t want to sound like a boring old man but those globes suit it fine in my opinion. With a bit of polish on the alloy they would look sexy as hell. But that’s just my opinion

Dont want to risk a canary, red P Plates are a cop magnet let alone a XD that turns heads with an exhaust leak and a fucked up paint job. Well the paint ain't to bad I must admit. This is mine 
 

I’ve heard that the first gear bearings don’t like burnouts. Just use second gear for skids, then third and fourth