NZXD

Yeah they aren’t cheap here at $5900 for the torqstorm setup, however it is bolt in.

A turbo setup wouldn’t be cheap for me as I can’t weld and there is no off the shelf (decent quality) turbo manifolds that will work for a Windsor in an XD, there is a stainless kit for a single turbo out of the US to suit a 67 Windsor mustang that could work.

Looked into the Holley Super Sniper 650, $2200 and it can control timing, so by the time you buy a boost referenced carb and MSD ignition box you aren’t too far from that.

What are you using for a fuel system?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice one, thats actually pretty reasonably priced!

https://www.cxracing.com/MF-KIT-MSTG67-289-VCLM

This is the CX racing brand turbo manifold kit to suit 64-68 mustang with Windsor and c4.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ll have to post some pictures soon lol I looked into the centrifugal supercharger side of things and f!$k me they are expensive to get set up and running. That why I went the turbo path, but each to their own.

Yeah they are bloody cheap for what they can do, I’m currently Converting my Clevo to efi with boost and I have gone this path.

Here ya go, take your pick:
 
Set up for methanol:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Holley-Blow-Through-Carburetor/233464078097?hash=item365b8b1f11:g:OV8AAOSwQOxdWydk
 
AED 750DP:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AED-750HO-BT-Blow-Thru-Holley-Double-Pumper-Carb-Turbo-Supercharger-Through-750/332009777021?epid=593798997&hash=item4d4d53277d:g:1FYAAOSw44BYCmo1
 
 

Yeah mate looking around the same price here for a new one specifically set up for boost.

I’ve read most of the conversions threads on how to convert your NA carb to blow through, from no power valves and large jets to low vac power valves and better afr with cruising off boost, seems a little hit n miss with results.

The other option is Holley sniper / Fitech.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Gents, does anybody have any experience with blow through carbs, either ones they have converted or purchased new?
 
Just throwing around some shed ideas for the XD and thinking about a side mount blower.
 
 
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If that is your intended use I would leave the BW diff that’s in it and maybe spend money on that instead.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I love the SBF Windsor, so always interested to read about builds.

My first question is, what is your budget. That will dictate your build and end goal.

What do you want to do with it?

Time and time again the BW diff has proven itself to be reliable for the power you are looking for and a nine inch isn’t really necessary, however depending on what you intend the car for will dictate the running gear.

A 302w with 10:1 comp and a mild roller cam and AFR 165 heads will hit the 400hp mark, lots of information on the mustang 5.0 forums.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I love the SBF Windsor, so always interested to read about builds.

My first question is, what is your budget. That will dictate your build and end goal.

What do you want to do with it?

Time and time again the BW diff has proven itself to be reliable for the power you are looking for and a nine inch isn’t really necessary, however depending on what you intend the car for will dictate the running gear.

A 302w with 10:1 comp and a mild roller cam and AFR 165 heads will hit the 400hp mark, lots of information on the mustang 5.0 forums.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I love the SBF Windsor, so always interested to read about builds.

My first question is, what is your budget. That will dictate your build and end goal.

What do you want to do with it?

Time and time again the BW diff has proven itself to be reliable for the power you are looking for and a nine inch isn’t really necessary, however depending on what you intend the car for will dictate the running gear.

A 302w with 10:1 comp and a mild roller cam and AFR 165 heads will hit the 400hp mark, lots of information on the mustang 5.0 forums.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I love the SBF Windsor, so always interested to read about builds.

My first question is, what is your budget. That will dictate your build and end goal.

What do you want to do with it?

Time and time again the BW diff has proven itself to be reliable for the power you are looking for and a nine inch isn’t really necessary, however depending on what you intend the car for will dictate the running gear.

A 302w with 10:1 comp and a mild roller cam and AFR 165 heads will hit the 400hp mark, lots of information on the mustang 5.0 forums.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For longevity, you are better off with a 331 over a 347, most 347's end up with the wrist pin behind the oil rings because the piston are so short, another draw back is also because of the short piston they tend to rock in the bores when the engine is cold and flog them out. There are plenty of ways to reach your power goals but you could help us out by telling us what your intentions are for the car (also what car it's going into), is it a street/strip car, with emphasis on street (and if more street than anything will it be a highway cruiser or an around town brawler) or strip (those can be two pretty different combos) or are corners more your thing, or even just a cruiser that sounds good and is capable of the occasional skid, what is the running gear you are planning to put behind it is it going to be a manual, is it going to be an auto, if it's going to be an auto which one and how much high stall are you willing to run, what's your rear end setup and do you have and what ratios would you like to run the more info you provide the better people can help you
 
 
 
 

All Ford smallblocks are externally balanced (perhaps not the Y-block....@Thom ?). If you look on the back of the flywheel, it will have a lump cast into it that lines up with the crank counterweight between the rear rod journals. The same goes for the lump cast inside the balancer and the front counterweight, which will be 180 deg out from the rear.

Both balancer and flywheel will always need a matched external balance: either 28oz or 50oz at each end, never a combo of the two. The required balance depends on what crank you use, not the engine. If you use a later model crank, it will need a 50oz flywheel/flexplate and balancer.

They went to 50oz (up from 28oz) from 1982 onwards, to bring them inline with the 351W which got it a few years earlier. They did this to reduce the amount of material and internal counterweighting and give the crank less rotating mass.

The reason for external balancing is that you can correct an imbalance with a smaller counterweight further from the source (ie: the crank throws and rods) to achieve the same balancing effect as a much heavier crank counterweight closer to the source. More leverage if you like.

A neutral balance 157 tooth flywheel is for a 6 cylinder or a specially made, internally balanced (ie expensive) V8 crank.



Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

By the time you buy a blower carb and modify the bonnet (reverse cowl) plus the blower itself you are really into some cash.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

By the time you buy a blower carb and modify the bonnet (reverse cowl) plus the blower itself you are really into some cash.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The Smaller Weiand 174 blower for a Windsor is now 5-6k for the kit. I should have got one years ago but now it’s too expensive.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The grey RTV stuff, use masking tape on the block and manifold so when it squishes out a bit you can wipe it and then remove the tape for a clean look.

I haven’t looked at manifold prices in a long time. You use to be able to get a new alloy rpm performer for around $400.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’d personally get rid of those cork valley gaskets and use sealer.

I think that intake will hold this Windsor back somewhat.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Finally got the gaskets so after lunch do a dummy fit

Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk

Yeah don’t use that firing order.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’d be interested to see how that goes, it’s quite surprising how much carb these little things can take.

When I was shopping around for a carb for mine the consensus was the usual 600cfm vac sec, but it never really ran right. Thinking it was too big went down to a quick fuel 450 dp and it was better in the idle to mid range and then went flat.

Took a gamble on a new Quick fuel 650dp and basically straight out of the box it was mint.
Tuned it using the wide band afr and it starts easy, revs crisp as hell and has steady afr right up to 6500.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Might have to apply some heat to it. I’m sure we pressed the steel gear on to the dizzy for mine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you are using the original cam then take the gear of the AU piece and put on another dizzy. Just make sure the shaft size is the same.

The steel gears use to be about $40, that was 10 years ago for me. I used Mallory steel gear and a Mallory dizzy and the roll pin had to be re drilled to suit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk