slydog

They need camshaft,compression and ignition for big carbs but after that cyl head flow. No point putting a tiny port dirt slinger head on a engine you want to rev over 7000 cos It won't make power. Been there,seen it,done it fixed it.
Turning the carb East West doe's enhance em though but many choose to stay North/South and it's all but free hp ??? 
 

They need camshaft,compression and ignition for big carbs but after that cyl head flow. No point putting a tiny port dirt slinger head on a engine you want to rev over 7000 cos It won't make power. Been there,seen it,done it fixed it.
Turning the carb East West doe's enhance em though but many choose to stay North/South and it's all but free hp ??? 
 

Camshaft and compression dictate carby size. Xflows L O V E big carbys and online CFM predictors are no where near right for the long stroke small bore 250 cube inline.      
I used a 750DP last time it was a 4 barrel car East/West and it was the best it ever was as a single carb car. Pro Systems speced it with a 790 unit but webbers solved all the induction issues. 

Doesn't matter what model module you use in Auto or Manual. Yes 3.3 Manual has best timing curve but use to fool em by dropping the temp sender in the washer bottle with a earth leed on it. Or you can use a couple of relays in series I think ??? to fool it to keep full timing. 
Once it reaches I think 85 degree's the timing module pulls a heap of timing out of it and doing one of the tricks above get around it.
 

Doesn't matter what model module you use in Auto or Manual. Yes 3.3 Manual has best timing curve but use to fool em by dropping the temp sender in the washer bottle with a earth leed on it. Or you can use a couple of relays in series I think ??? to fool it to keep full timing. 
Once it reaches I think 85 degree's the timing module pulls a heap of timing out of it and doing one of the tricks above get around it.
 

I found Bosch leeds to give best performance of over the counter stuff.
P.S I also run leeds around the front and can remove rocker cover without un plugging leeds.

I found Bosch leeds to give best performance of over the counter stuff.
P.S I also run leeds around the front and can remove rocker cover without un plugging leeds.

I found Bosch leeds to give best performance of over the counter stuff.
P.S I also run leeds around the front and can remove rocker cover without un plugging leeds.

efi leads are slightly longer due to clipping to the front of the rocker cover(longer path) 
if you have a TFI dizzy they were all unleaded so the cap, spacer and rotor button will all be from unleaded(1986 model) if you choose the carby leads(same cap etc as the 1992 etc crossflow XF ute) they will go over the top of the rocker cover maybe(assuming the aussiespeed one is not much taller) but the efi ones would be long enough for sure.
 

There was an early mustang up at our local ford day with one on his 6 banger. Walked past and almost missed it. Another guys running one on his clevo never been on a dyno and runs high 11's. Says could do with some dyno time to sort out how it runs on a cold start but once its up to temp runs faultlessly.

This ^^^ old school look modern running
 

How about aussie speed 4 barrel manifold and the throttle body self tuning efi deals that are getting chucked on everything lately.

Solid roller is lean in the window hit the key. Then load it on the trailer and go race it lol.
Well thats what I did anyway

No it's exactly how I did my flat tappets too. Fastest xflow in the country doe's it and so do I. You will notice the lash setting is stated as a HOT setting and as alloy reacts strongly to heat it will be a big gap.
Dean @ Tighe is knob and will tell you anything too. They do the semi on all roller xflow cams and mine is set 1 tooth plus 2 degree's. That is not made up,it's stated in my build thread even. Hence the importance to dial the cam in and I'll bet everything I know it's not cos your engine builder would of said it's not needed in your case on a 6 cyl. There all the same.
So again...Id set the lash cold tighter cos when it's hot it's gunna be well over that and can hurt the pushrod tips if revved that way for long like when running a cam in or something??? 
Reading and listening is the biggest asset everyone has but you also choose how and when you do it.

No it's exactly how I did my flat tappets too. Fastest xflow in the country doe's it and so do I. You will notice the lash setting is stated as a HOT setting and as alloy reacts strongly to heat it will be a big gap.
Dean @ Tighe is knob and will tell you anything too. They do the semi on all roller xflow cams and mine is set 1 tooth plus 2 degree's. That is not made up,it's stated in my build thread even. Hence the importance to dial the cam in and I'll bet everything I know it's not cos your engine builder would of said it's not needed in your case on a 6 cyl. There all the same.
So again...Id set the lash cold tighter cos when it's hot it's gunna be well over that and can hurt the pushrod tips if revved that way for long like when running a cam in or something??? 
Reading and listening is the biggest asset everyone has but you also choose how and when you do it.

Or could just mean you like flatheads

The blue alloy body HVC coil is the pick for street use over the plastic cased unit. The plastic unit is for short burst use as stated by MSD and I have to say I have burn out a blue and red phenolic HVC body coil's but not a alloy unit yet.  

Leaving the inners in is all but a certain recipe for cam lifter failure. Never had one last on a solid unless inners removed due to spring pressure they run.

Lifters first of course...? Good lube like Joe Gibbs or Penrite Red lube and the absolute best break in oil you can buy.Again Joe Gibbs or Penrite are my choices. If you skimp out on first start up your making the engines chance of longer life shorter than it can be.
 
Did you leave the Inner springs out for start run in ? 

Holden head stud sealer works best. But of late I been using some permatex shit and never had a issue. 
I also wind mine down to full tension. That bolt (stud in my case) was machined down a bit and I stack 4 hardened washers and have never cracked a block. Did it on a 84DA and my current 86DA. Current combo has had the head on and off maybe 10 times or more? 

Yes you could do it like this via flag terminals but it would still not be weather proof as it the point of the caps. In saying that people...I have mine wired in without the weather caps for ohhhhhhhhhhhh like 6 or more years with zero issues and a few car washes but not much rain driving.

HF1 head,C4 flex plate and a short alt bracket set up like Corty's had.Would be first of alloy headed xflows

Big speedflow oil cap fitting and a -12 JIC male nipple for a breather
 

Big speedflow oil cap fitting and a -12 JIC male nipple for a breather
 

I'm actually going back to a big single for street and mainly to remove weight and make it eaiser to do pipe drop on race day. 
Went for a 3.5" Hooker Aero Chamber and I'll add a Gonzo style race muffler and flange for a turn down so if @ PCM or events that require mufflers I'll still be legit but I can remove the the rear of the exhaust for weight saving and no real loss of power.