Crazy2287

Hey I'm digging this. Already turning out to be an awesome diy thread!

I never scraped the guard with 245's and I've not rolled the guard. 
I dunno how low you guys are going but from a steering geometry point of view it's not fiesable to have a 17" wheel tucking in the front of an Xfal. 
Even with all my mods it would be difficult to get the wheel to tuck in practice and cornering performance would suffer if I did. Not to mention banging off the ball joint or bumpstops. 
I pulled the spring out and even with modded ball joint mount this is as much tuck as can be acheaved at ball joint bind.
 
And in the rear, my tailshaft hits the tunnel, even though I've cut and raised the tunnel. And the rears don't tuck. 
So if you want to tuck, your gonna need bigger than 17's or run big sidewall truck tyres.

Hey I'm digging this. Already turning out to be an awesome diy thread!

For those that are also running high ball joint angles, savy motorsport make a rebuildable upper and lower ball joint. The uppers are also designed for low ride hights. The billet housing is machined so that it sits flat on the UCA, but is angled to place the joint closer to the middle of its movement at the arm angles most of us are running.

https://savymotorsport.com.au/product/ford-top-ball-joint-studs-and-parts/

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245's on 17" rims and Shelby drop. would rub on bump stop plates. Was not real bad, took a long time before it started to get through the paint. 
3 mm offset or spacer would have sorted it in my case.  I'm running homemade bumpstops now so heaps of clearance. 

245's on 17" rims and Shelby drop. would rub on bump stop plates. Was not real bad, took a long time before it started to get through the paint. 
3 mm offset or spacer would have sorted it in my case.  I'm running homemade bumpstops now so heaps of clearance. 

245's on 17" rims and Shelby drop. would rub on bump stop plates. Was not real bad, took a long time before it started to get through the paint. 
3 mm offset or spacer would have sorted it in my case.  I'm running homemade bumpstops now so heaps of clearance. 

245's on 17" rims and Shelby drop. would rub on bump stop plates. Was not real bad, took a long time before it started to get through the paint. 
3 mm offset or spacer would have sorted it in my case.  I'm running homemade bumpstops now so heaps of clearance. 

If you want my opinion (Hahah, Good one.) wihout reading the whole thread.

If you want EFI.
Fucking put it on. 
There is little to nil excuse for using throttle body injection of aftermarket "Bolt on" self learning systems when proper EFi installations can be adapted and used so easily with much better results.

If you want to keep a "carb" manifold and look. Just leave the fkn carby on it..

There are 2 screws on throttle body. One sets the butterfly so it never closes completely and this is to stop the butterfly "sticking" in the closed position. Aka it improves pedal feel.  The other is an air bypass.
For tuning idle both the pip wire and the iac should be disconnected as both will alter the idle speed. And the eng should be fully warmed up. 
If eng is fully warmed up and the iac is still altering idle speed, (and ac is off) then that leads me back to the clt sensor as possibly faulty. 
A wideband sniffer can be used for adjusting the afm.
And why are they playing with the knock sensor? Just unplug it if you think it's an issue and it will stop interfearing with the tune.
I have never had the knock sensor cause any issues (and I've had a lot of issues) and tbh i don't know if they even worked from factory. 
 
I know what does work. An aftermarket ecu. And all future eng issues can usually be diagnosed by plugging in a laptop and "oh, the ECU isn't getting 'x'. So I'll fix that"
You can also enjoy better fuel economy and can fuck off the pesky afm and say hello to a couple extra ponies. All without changing the appearance at all if you are tricky and gut the afm and leave it installed.
I think they make plug in megasquirts now that use the factory harness and connector. Just add EGO and a MAP line. 

245's on 17" rims and Shelby drop. would rub on bump stop plates. Was not real bad, took a long time before it started to get through the paint. 
3 mm offset or spacer would have sorted it in my case.  I'm running homemade bumpstops now so heaps of clearance. 

All 20mm.
 
I'd hate for you to blow money on something you may not need. Make sure you go over the thread I linked to determine if you actually NEED shock spacers.
 
If you do, No problem. Will you have issues?
If you jamming another 5mm (Strut brace) under the shock spacer I'm going to say yes. It will be VERY close to the bonnet, and the deflection in the upper shock mount bushes as you drive over bumps might be all it needs to wack a dint in your bonnet. In fact, I recommended anyone running these as is that they should check clearances, as there are small differences in manufacturing tolerances, shocks and bushes (rubber vs polyurethane), it might clear one bonnet on a setup but will hit the next (although i've had no reports of any bonnets been hit yet)
You can easily avoid this by cutting the top off your Shocky, when assembled. Only a couple mm above the nut, then cut a slot in the top with a 1mm blade on an angle grinder that you can put a large flatblade screw driver in to hold the top of the shock still when removing/installing.
 
Go for a drive without your bonnet on and watch your shocky, you'll see how much they move when going over bumps. Plus driving without a bonnet is badass.

Polyurethane for the radius rod bush. If you want a performance improvement that's one of the big ones. 
I would not expect it to increase road noise much if at all since it works as a fulcrum on such a big lever that has no longitudinal load unless under braking. The lever should absorb the majority of the noise.?
I've not noticed an increase of road noise on the 3 xfals I've done, but I have definitely noticed the turn in and mid corner improve dramatically.

Polyurethane for the radius rod bush. If you want a performance improvement that's one of the big ones. 
I would not expect it to increase road noise much if at all since it works as a fulcrum on such a big lever that has no longitudinal load unless under braking. The lever should absorb the majority of the noise.?
I've not noticed an increase of road noise on the 3 xfals I've done, but I have definitely noticed the turn in and mid corner improve dramatically.

Polyurethane for the radius rod bush. If you want a performance improvement that's one of the big ones. 
I would not expect it to increase road noise much if at all since it works as a fulcrum on such a big lever that has no longitudinal load unless under braking. The lever should absorb the majority of the noise.?
I've not noticed an increase of road noise on the 3 xfals I've done, but I have definitely noticed the turn in and mid corner improve dramatically.

Polyurethane for the radius rod bush. If you want a performance improvement that's one of the big ones. 
I would not expect it to increase road noise much if at all since it works as a fulcrum on such a big lever that has no longitudinal load unless under braking. The lever should absorb the majority of the noise.?
I've not noticed an increase of road noise on the 3 xfals I've done, but I have definitely noticed the turn in and mid corner improve dramatically.

Urethane UCA bushes recommended. Will help car maintain suspension geometry and removes issues with preload in the rubber bush type. 
Spring saddels can't say, I've replaced with rubber and never had an issue. 
Yes, UCA Drop will cause the pivot to foul on the tower. I used a heavy ball pein hammer to massage the tower for extra room, and ground the pivot a little.
When UCA drop is done upper ball joint gets dangerously close to binding. And the UCA will foul on the tower at the pivot at max travel. 
I've done a thread on this:
Also, if you try to slam it you will eventually destroy your bumpstops as when using the drop the UCA does not hit the bump stop square. I made my own bump stops to fix this, which gave me more clearance for wider tires but you could also mod the upper arm if tires don't foul. 

You'll have to pull then out and pop the glass off the front. Clean the glass using normal glass cleaning techniques. Be careful cleaning the reflector. Use a soft cloth as it will mark easily. 

There are 2 screws on throttle body. One sets the butterfly so it never closes completely and this is to stop the butterfly "sticking" in the closed position. Aka it improves pedal feel.  The other is an air bypass.
For tuning idle both the pip wire and the iac should be disconnected as both will alter the idle speed. And the eng should be fully warmed up. 
If eng is fully warmed up and the iac is still altering idle speed, (and ac is off) then that leads me back to the clt sensor as possibly faulty. 
A wideband sniffer can be used for adjusting the afm.
And why are they playing with the knock sensor? Just unplug it if you think it's an issue and it will stop interfearing with the tune.
I have never had the knock sensor cause any issues (and I've had a lot of issues) and tbh i don't know if they even worked from factory. 
 
I know what does work. An aftermarket ecu. And all future eng issues can usually be diagnosed by plugging in a laptop and "oh, the ECU isn't getting 'x'. So I'll fix that"
You can also enjoy better fuel economy and can fuck off the pesky afm and say hello to a couple extra ponies. All without changing the appearance at all if you are tricky and gut the afm and leave it installed.
I think they make plug in megasquirts now that use the factory harness and connector. Just add EGO and a MAP line. 

You'll have to pull then out and pop the glass off the front. Clean the glass using normal glass cleaning techniques. Be careful cleaning the reflector. Use a soft cloth as it will mark easily. 

You'll have to pull then out and pop the glass off the front. Clean the glass using normal glass cleaning techniques. Be careful cleaning the reflector. Use a soft cloth as it will mark easily. 

You'll have to pull then out and pop the glass off the front. Clean the glass using normal glass cleaning techniques. Be careful cleaning the reflector. Use a soft cloth as it will mark easily. 

A google got me here:
https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/install/ford/ford-eec-iv/
 
But i thought i saw another mod had done one that was even more "Plug n play" and i'm pretty sure the XF used Ford EEC-IV ECU but get someone to confirm.
 
Also here:
https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/hardware/diypnp/available-models/
Which leads Here:
https://www.diyautotune.com/product/diypnp-ford-60-pin-eec-iv-unassembled-kit-no-connector/

There are 2 screws on throttle body. One sets the butterfly so it never closes completely and this is to stop the butterfly "sticking" in the closed position. Aka it improves pedal feel.  The other is an air bypass.
For tuning idle both the pip wire and the iac should be disconnected as both will alter the idle speed. And the eng should be fully warmed up. 
If eng is fully warmed up and the iac is still altering idle speed, (and ac is off) then that leads me back to the clt sensor as possibly faulty. 
A wideband sniffer can be used for adjusting the afm.
And why are they playing with the knock sensor? Just unplug it if you think it's an issue and it will stop interfearing with the tune.
I have never had the knock sensor cause any issues (and I've had a lot of issues) and tbh i don't know if they even worked from factory. 
 
I know what does work. An aftermarket ecu. And all future eng issues can usually be diagnosed by plugging in a laptop and "oh, the ECU isn't getting 'x'. So I'll fix that"
You can also enjoy better fuel economy and can fuck off the pesky afm and say hello to a couple extra ponies. All without changing the appearance at all if you are tricky and gut the afm and leave it installed.
I think they make plug in megasquirts now that use the factory harness and connector. Just add EGO and a MAP line. 

There are 2 screws on throttle body. One sets the butterfly so it never closes completely and this is to stop the butterfly "sticking" in the closed position. Aka it improves pedal feel.  The other is an air bypass.
For tuning idle both the pip wire and the iac should be disconnected as both will alter the idle speed. And the eng should be fully warmed up. 
If eng is fully warmed up and the iac is still altering idle speed, (and ac is off) then that leads me back to the clt sensor as possibly faulty. 
A wideband sniffer can be used for adjusting the afm.
And why are they playing with the knock sensor? Just unplug it if you think it's an issue and it will stop interfearing with the tune.
I have never had the knock sensor cause any issues (and I've had a lot of issues) and tbh i don't know if they even worked from factory. 
 
I know what does work. An aftermarket ecu. And all future eng issues can usually be diagnosed by plugging in a laptop and "oh, the ECU isn't getting 'x'. So I'll fix that"
You can also enjoy better fuel economy and can fuck off the pesky afm and say hello to a couple extra ponies. All without changing the appearance at all if you are tricky and gut the afm and leave it installed.
I think they make plug in megasquirts now that use the factory harness and connector. Just add EGO and a MAP line.