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I'd have to climb back under the car to take a pic, but i've measured the input shaft and its only 167mm so pretty sure the box is a six cylinder one, maybe the extension housing is from a v8, thats what i took the number from. Its marked 0552-0662903. Once I clean the rest of the box I'll see what numbers are on the the main housing. I do know the box has a lot less kays than the rest of the car. It'll do until my funds start to recover and I can get a TKX in to it

Yeah My brother had the 3 on the tree manual in a panel van XB for about a month or so until it jammed the gears up. ended up with a celica 5 speed which was nice until it blew up, and then fitted corona 4 speeds (cheaper at $50) and blew 2 of them up also.. then it got a 302/C4 combo. a single rail and 2.92 diff would be nice enough upgrade, but a T5 and 3.23/3.27 ish would be the perfect combo. 130 is plenty fast enough for an XB on the street, cops will impound anything going faster these days at great expense. (My diesel gemini did over 140 i was told by the previous owner, he installed a CB to ask truckies if there was anything up the road as far as they could see before he took a run up from behind to go past them eventually getting to 140+ at times)

got a pic of the bell housing? it won't be a V8 one if it's got the standard ford 6 bell housing, (well unless Dellow make a spacer for it and then the tailshaft would be shorter, and hole in floor a different spot possibly and cross member different etc.. UNLIKELY )

Just thought I'd give an update on this one, went for 15x8 and 15x9 12 slotters with 225/60 and 265/60 rubber, came out looking better than I expected.

if you rebuilt it before breaking it, or it's in good condition to begin with, it will handle a fair amount of power. the V6 commo input shaft bearing is supposed to be an upgrade, but i don't know how it's fitted (is it full box teardown etc?)

crossflow T5 bell and EA to EL will accept any 6cyl T5 box V8 one has a longer input shaft, so probably could fit with a spacer(if there's enough room for the throwout bearing still, but then it means the tailshaft needs to be shorter if so, i doubt anyone would do that mod unless in a custom car)

According to goggles that number correspondes with a Non World Class mustang T5....confusing Pretty sure its to box that'll only take 300lb's of torque...better be gentle with it

T5Z is the 2.95 1st ,there is a forum on here about this very thing,ea eb1 3.50 1st,eb2 3.25 1st,and later models possibly up to au 3.35 1st,but the v8 t5 comes straight outta the mustang with 2.95 1st ,just give us a picture of the box and serial numbers ect,could be that dellow did have a kit or something,if it is a v8 box they are hard to find,or if its a just a normal t5 well thats ok too.

the xb with the v8 ratio t5 will work nice with 3.27 ,will not have to worry about putting strain on the box in 1st to get the thing up and going when putting your foot down ,the rest of the 2,3,4,5th are similar to the 6cyl t5,pretty sure the std 6cyl box has 3.25 1st gear,and v8 2.95,still a far cry from 2.46 1st close ratio single rail and top laoder.

sorry edit,did you say a v8 ? it will have a juicy low first gear compard to the 4.0L ONES,2.95 1st i think as to 3.25 or 3.50

it's a 3.27 and yes it's out of an XG. I'm trying to figure out what the T5 was from as the ute originally had a 4spd auto in it and was converted to a T5 about 10 years ago by Dellow's. The number that I have found indicated that the box is from an EB2 V8, but thats just from a google search, gunna have to drown the poor thing in degreaser to find the rest of the id numbers on it.

I was happy with the log 250 engine in My brothers XB 30yrs ago, it was improved by fitting a C4 trans over the BW35 he blew up, and it still had a 2.92 diff. just had that off idle torque that seemed to get worse with every generation of falcon 6 right up to the AU and beyond probably.

Thanks, been looking for a colour code 5 deep aqua XB for 28 years...after I crashed the v8 futura that I had as a stoopid stoopid teenager. Wife finally let me get one, she's only a 250, but as we all know they can be made to go real hard. the Vinyl roof has slight damage on the driver side near the chrome trim, so I'm weighing up wether to remove it and get the turret cleaned up or fork over and redo the vinyl.

Bloody beautiful car...

Pulled these out of the ute over the weekend got a nice surprize found the diff is an LSD which is handy....also discovered that I'm way too fat and old to be climbing under cars in the cold..

double pumper,the other 450 ones are more daily and street driven carbs,i think the model is QHR 450 D/P and looks like a holley d/p but crome or alloy.i remember the dyno guy just changed the squirter to a bit larger one than std.

Was the quickfuel a DP or vac secondary carb?

What cam were you running?

there is way too much choice now with nok offs and copies of copies,price too now is crazy for a new carby,i went thru this in many engine builds ,see holley knows the most popular carb even thou small cfm the 465 vac is a huge seller in the states,and all around the world as it suits the 289/302 and stock other v8s ,600 650 and 750 have always been cheaper ,even consider a hume performance rebuilt carby i have bought many over the years and they are very good,they even look like new,tell them what you are doing and they can build it for you,or just buy a new 450 quickfuel d/p and be done with it,they have all the latest features built in and are very light,i had one on my 250 and pulled 210 rwhp on the dyno with room for improvement there is a video on here with it.

@Thom may know something about various brands of carby, see if he can read the few posts above and weigh in on anything perhaps

if you were considering turbo or boost , vacuum secondaries are blown open in a blow through (cannot use) and i'm fairly sure they were not recommended in a draw through also. i do recall i was told to go mechanical in a manual also, but i don't see why from more recent chatting, unless its for double the squirt of fuel when they are on a gear change to prevent a lean backfire on full throttle? or just vacuum might be too slow to react for a gear change in general when thrashed? someone smarter than Me may have better info for you hopefully.