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Watching The Skid Factory (youtube) I've seen them use heat gun to winkle up the winkle paint, *after a bit of looking back through your thread, as a temp exhaust, cut through the expanded part on the collector & rotate to the left (guessing 4-7mm) then reweld, should work Those extractors also look to tapper down to fit in that small "collector" that looks to just be a flared bit of pipe from when they were made, if so, I'd cut them back where they are still round (maybe extend the secondary's a bit & put a pair of mandrel bends from where you cut) then put a twin 1 ?/?" in to 2" out collector, also with the extractors does the 4th cyl pipe go into the side of the 1st cyl, or is the collector just hidden by 2&3 (hard to tell from photos). As to pipe size Vs engine as a EG. VE SV6 3.6lt has 2 1/4" twin from factory, 1800cc per bank, so 2" will be fine for a 1660cc. also to 2" single on 4.1, from memory BF E-gas utes have 2 3/4" exhaust, & EA onwards were always 2 1/4".

I started getting the engine prepped ready to fire up, but I have hit a snag. I did all the valve clearances, fitted thermostat and housing, fitted the heater outlet fitting, picked up a new PCV and installed exhaust studs in the head. I went to fit the extractors, and they don’t fit with the gearbox mount in the new location. The way they are shaped, they hit the rear crossmember now. They need a pin hole welded up anyway, and they are old. I also noticed that my exhaust guy, when he extended them backwards, he stepped the outlet down from 2” to 1.75”, which is annoying because going back to 2” for the 1600 isn’t really going to be possible now. So, i think I will replace them and the entire exhaust, start from fresh with it all. For the purposes of firing the engine up at home, I will be able to just remove the rear crossmember for now to make it work, but none of it will work in the car Well there’s your problem… So there are a couple of factors here that could be causing my issues. 1st possible and most likely is that the crossmember is now further back where the extractor extension is closer to the middle of the car. 2nd is that the extractors are now higher. Because the 1600 block is about an inch taller, it means everything sits higher. Its possible the extractors used to see under the crossmember, whereas now they sit next to it. I have this soaking in petrol over night. The amount of oil and s*** built up inside is bad. So going to clean it out before using it on the engine. I will install a catch can also between this and the engine all in the details. Nice stainless bolts for the rocker cover new heater outlet. I had to cut the barb fitting shorter because it was too long to screw in while the water pump is fitted to the engine. Valve clearance done, studs installed, rocker cover on, thermostat on. Just need manifolds, dizzy and PCV and she’s ready to fire up

The oil slingers came Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk

...and this is the cleaned and rebuilt fuel pump....

Agreed I've fired up engines in way sketchier situations last one I did i fired up my xflow balanced on bricks, radiator hoses are usually stiff enough to hold a radiator in place, I have cable tied a radiator to a chair once to stop it moving

Well the wrinkle paint definitely went wrinkly over night Im super wrapped with the way it turned out. Now it just needs a sneaky "1300HC" sticker put on it to disguise the fact its a 1600 I fitted the head today, and all the rocker gear. hopefully its on for good. I am really happy with the way this has come up. I haven't bolted the rocker cover down yet, because i decided the original bolts aren't pretty enough haha. so I will be fitting stainless button head allen keys. The engine is very close to being able to be fired up. and although that was never the intention until the car was back here from the panel shop, I am tempted to plumb it up and fire the engine up here in the stand. I have the full exhaust system so i can make it relatively quiet. I just need to bolt the manifolds on, dizzy, and plumb up the cooling system and i could run it. it is very tempting. I will be giving the idea some thought and I may give it a shot if it seems easy enough.

I was going to say Auto Surplus, would've thought you'd know of them through work, we use them all the time for old rarer parts

I believe the gasket is a heat barrier between the pump and the block.

Your a legend. Yep mine is for a 6 cylinder, its a 200ci in an XP. Ill go have a captain cook now.

that joint is awesome, I've bought from them several times.

I can't answer your gasket question I'm afraid, but I DID manage to find a fuel pump repair kit and the pump has been completely rebuilt and is ready to go back on the car again... I found it at a place called Auto Surplus in Croydon South, Victoria.. www.autosurplus.com.au The kit was $64 or so and everything fitted perfectly. With the new, flexible diaphragm, that pump will suck a golf ball through a garden hose now... Bear in mind though, that the pump on my XC is for the 6 cylinder engine. If you're after a V8 model, I can't guarantee they'll have one, but they're definitely worth a try... Good luck....

This is a quick video before bricks or radiator were added

haha ok guys this sounds like fun. I have to get the distributor regraphed, then I might have a crank at firing it up. It would be nice to get it running and know that its going to be ok before i put it in, then find out that it isn't too good lol. Remember, I haven't rebuild the bottom end, nor have i heard it running, but I have had it cranking over when i did the compression test before i freshened it up.

it's not going anywhere sitting on the cross member as pictured. My Dad used to just shove a garden hose with half a tennis ball type thing to seal it, in the lower radiator hose and turn the tap on and have a bit of similar from the top hose away from the fan(splashy splash not on the engine) depends how long you are going to run it for i guess(Most of the one's Dad ran had been sitting under the bench in the shed for 10yrs plus)

Yeah I don't know what I would do. I was just going to put the original 1300HC decal on there.

a bit of an update my spool rods and ross forgies have turned up. have sourced another engine with a spare 4 speed cheap and stripped it down. engine was out of an xe but it has a rubber crank seal and an unmarked hf4 head with a 52cc chamber. bore is standard size, not that it matters because it will be going 40 thou over to suite the pistons. i have started porting the head so far : gasket matched intake and exhaust, blended valve seats, stream lined around the valve guide. still have to polish up the exhaust ports and unshroud the valves in the chamber. unsure what it will flow but should make a bit of difference. head will have new valve guides installed and a 3 angle valve job and a skim. i will need to talk to my machine shop to find out what m.l.s head gaskets are available so i can work out comp ratio. block will be decked to 0. still undecided on cam atm if budget allows i would like a solid roller not so i can go bigger on cam but for not having to run in the cam and swap springs out.

Yep id already had that thought. But from reading, 1.75” is too small really for a 1600 (1660), with a cam and weber. 2” seemed to be the standard for anything from 1300GT and up, maybe 1600. You can see the step down in that photo, so yeah i think start a fresh with 2” system front to back is the way to go. Ill just remove the rear crossmember for now to test the engine.

Thats a good point, the stray radiator i have for start-ups has a electric fan on it gemini engine sitting on 2 wheels .. aka "run stand" ?

Thats a good point, the stray radiator i have for start-ups has a electric fan on it

not if you have a FIXED Fan on the engine i found out.. gave the transit van a rev .. Bllliiiiingggggg, 3 tubes needed soldering up .. whoops (ziptied to a chair.. yes, do this if a fan is fitted)

i wouldn't put anything on it that's not in the options(eg, if there's a plaque on a RS etc i'd consider one similar)

be much easier to fix a bad leak if the engine is out of the car, i'd do it if you can safely

Yep HAHA Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the great info outback jack .il rip out the sender tomorrow and go from there . You answer all my questions.

Cheers mate, 17.8 is not much better than what mine is doing at the moment. I dunno why, but clevos just seem to like a drink. Looks like Summit is the go for that kind of gear, but their price is deceptive as the spider kit and bronze dizzy gear are extra which should really be all bundled together. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk