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Just one tip. That carb gasket , cut it to match the oval plate . I have seen those pieces get sucked away

Valve seems to have fixed it ! Didn’t end up taking it in to mech thankfully, got side tracked and pulled apart other things haha... down the rabbit hole we go.

Be careful, mate. Everyone on Evilbay says they fit XR - XE, but there are subtle differences between XY headers and XC. Auto and manual, clutch slave clearances etc. Just saying you may have to "tweak" the pipes a little. Look awesome for the price, though.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-FALCON-XR-XF-ZA-ZL-2V-CLEVELAND-STAINLESS-EXTRACTORS-HEADERS-116/254170771599?hash=item3b2dc2308f:g:UUoAAOSwHSlckeo2 So im thinking of putting some new headers in the XC to dress it up a bit more as the current ones look pretty crap. Has anyone used these?

Some parts have lobbed up chex these new comp cam cleveland rockers with a bigger slot so can use a little bit bigger lift if needed and built in oil drippers reasonable price too also dizzy and adaptor Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk

They look nice too. 4 into 1's are tight in the XB, had to reroute the trans lines, and they cook the trans fluid and the floor. Still.......... the noise.

Yeah they do look pretty smick. I can tell you that any extractors on a clevo, tri-Y or tuned will be a bitch to fit. Even my lowly set of tri-Ys needed the starter and nearly the steering box removed, and that's after splitting the driver's side set into front and rear halves. Those ones seem to be one piece so I reckon the engine will need to be jacked up on that side and/or the car put on a hoist to feed them up under. Also if they're a grade of stainless that doesn't rust, be prepared for them to crack and fatigue. They never make exhausts out of the pretty stuff for that reason, and that's why factory systems will get a thin layer of rust very quickly. If they went putting any more chrome in them,to stop the rust, they would have lots of warranty nightmares from them splitting apart. Not trying to talk you out of it, just be mentally prepared for what could happen, especially with eBay gear. They might be a good thing after all Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

One thing you have to be careful of with an xh is that your front tyres aren't to tall or wide, the tyre has to go under the top ball joint (circled area in pic) on xh/e series front spindles Ive run 235 55 17 on the front of an xh and i dont think you would fit any wider tyres on stock offset wheels

EGR block offs. i remember them.

If the Coil is visually cracked, it will likely be no good. If the hall-effect sensor has failed in the closed/power-on position, it can overheat the coil. You can easily test the primary/secondary winding resistance on any coil, using a multi-meter.

Lovely Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-CLEVELAND-2V-PACEMAKER-PH4070-TUNED-LENGTH-HEADERS-FALCON-FAIRLANE-GT-NEW/171244770626?epid=28026727584&hash=item27defbd542:g:OMYAAOxy4fVTAXhb Maybe these might be a better option

Ignition issues are quite often caused by a dodgy hall effect sensor. It can also cause the coil to fail, yeah. You need an oscilloscope to confirm what's actually happening though.

Check all earths. Probably forgot to reconnect or loose. Earths play havoc on gas systems particularly relays to operate correctly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ugh, it's not as fixed as I though it was. Went for a 40km drive this morning perfectly fine. Pulled up at home, switched it off and went upstairs. Came back out at lunch time and it wouldn't start again. Same as before, cranks fine, Smartlock seems to be working fine, just no spark. Could it be the hall effect sensor in the dizzy? Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

I have the proflow similar version of these, they are $150 or so more expensive. They seem quality built but the pipe wall seems thin (don’t know if that’s normal for stainless headers) and as above I think they will crack but not sure on the time frame. Have you thought about mild steel headers with polished ceramic coating? I think that’s what I would if I had my time again.

The height may still be an issue with a 235 60 15, just for example here's a pic of one of my old ef's (same front suspension as xh) with 235 45 17 on 8x17' zero offset rim, the tyres were very close to the top ball joint with these, unfortunately I don't have any pics showing how close they are I just realised I had a typo in my previous post I meant to write 235 45 17 not 235 55 17

If a 235/55R17 tyre clears, a 235/60R15 should shit it in. Like Thom said, offset will play a part. Closer to zero offset would be ideal. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

Cheers boys about to drop it back to the mech who organised the gas. will wait and see if they charge me through the nose for something invisible. Will update once I get an answer

Yeah 6.5 was my bugger up. Thanks for the info guys. the tyres I’m pulling the trigger on are 235/60R15 on the fronts and 255/60R15 on the back. Will post some pics once I’ve finished it all off

one of the first things I did as I had seen a lot people having limp mode issues caused from a bad battery but cheers. hit the nail on the head mate I cant thank you enough. I unplugged the transmission wiring loom (circular one) and started the car no change. so went and pushed it firmly and what do you know everything was back to normal. After driving the car for a while the p1213 code popped back up and I could see it had something to do with the lpg prime solenoid. Upon checking the lpg converter there is a clicking sound coming from it every now and then which sounds like it might be a relay or something. would you know whats going on with this one. I have a video that might give a clue and sussing the manual all I could find is attatched. I was thinking of grabbing a prime solenoid from ebay and trying to replace it: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/232344810910 https://photos.app.goo.gl/vJcDteFeRJf3dB3cA again thanks for your help so far im really happy to have a car to drive around now I owe you one.

Nah, bad fuel from the servo. I'm not the only one who's had problems. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Thanks mate. I will have a look in the morning and report my findings. I think I know the one your talking about. Should the car just stop limp mode once fixed or will I need to clear codes/reset pcm or drive around. If I'm unable to find the source of the problem do you know anywhere in the s.e suburbs Melbourne (Dandenong area) that'll take an honest look. Has been through the wars but was running pretty great before all this.

Interesting that they still used the D2AE part number even though it was made in a completely different country, manufacturing process and material. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

Subscribed...... Just about to commence an AU 4.0L conversion and starting to get some parts together. So far ive got an AU1 motor complete running out of my ex daily and i just scored an EF Tickford head for the princely sum of 100 coin complete with everything.... cam, valves, rockers, cover the lot. I also have access to the rest of the EF XR6 motor so is there anything else i should grab before is slips by??? Got an AU T5 bell waiting to be picked up aswell... dont have a decent T5, only the XF one thats in the ute now but im hoping with some tender care it should hold for at least a while until i can build a better box. Aslo picked up a set of PH4495 pipes to suit a barra that i was going to modify the bolt flange to fit the SOHC head... they are pretty damn close except for the top row of bolts so its either cut the whole flange off and tig another back on or try to manipulate this one. Or sell the damn thing and spend the coin on an AU set yet. Plans are the eventually supercharge it so while i might go with the EF head with more comp initially i might keep hold of the AU head and do that one for less comp around the 9.0:1 max mark to get some room for boost.