Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/22/2020 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    there was a photo going around that someone had welded a plate on the bottom of the lower control arm mounts as it's spaced the same as a leaf spring.. looks less professional there's another i have of photo of Clints XF ute with built in lowering into his spring perch that was made by his brother i think.. with this, someone mentioned using the top arm mount to make a traction bar like the XB GT etc had
  2. 3 points
    SPArKy_Dave

    Weber Carb 34ADM Master Thread

    The Italian made Weber 34adm Carburettor, was factory fitted to XE/XF Falcon 6cyl, Ford F100-350's and Ford Bronco 6cyl. It existed as factory fitment, from mid 1982, up till March 1993 - when the XF Falcon commercial range ended, and the XG Falcon was launched. The purpose of this thread, is to have Technical and Parts info for the Weber 34adm Carburettor, all in one location. I will edit and add to this first post, as I find further info. If anyone has any additional info on these carby's, they're most welcome to add it into the thread. Exploded_view_of_WEBER_34_ADM_0_USD.pdf List of parts: No Part No Price Pcs Description 1 31716.461 $ 0 1 Carb Top Cover 2 37022.004 $ 10.3 1 Filter element 3 64700.005 $ 0 6 Top Cover Fixing Screw 4 64010.034 $ 0 1 Choke throttle valve 5 64525.003 $ 0 2 Choke plate fixing screw 6 10015.274 $ 7.8 1 Choke shaft 7 10140.501 $ 1 1 Locking Ring 8 41565.008 $ 0.8 1 O ring 9 55510.034 $ 0.4 2 Lock Washer 10 64700.001 $ 5 2 Fixing Screw 11 52135.018 $ 3 1 Dust seal plate 12 61070.002 $ 3 1 Dust seal plug 13 57804.446 $ 0 1 Auto Choke Assy. Including 14 64560.004 $ 0 3 — Diaphragm cover fixing screw 15 64595.005 $ 5.8 1 — Diaphragm adjusting screw 16 32384.060 $ 0 1 — Diaphragm cover 17 47600.229 $ 0 1 — Diaphragm loading spring 18 47407.226 $ 0 1 — Choke diaphragm 19 47605.030 $ 0 1 - Return Spring 20 41640.052 $ 3 1 Auto Choke Body Gasket 21 57804.483 $ 0 1 Autochoke Thermostat 22 52135.029 $ 2.4 1 Choke Lock Ring 23 64615.004 $ 0 3 Screw 24 52570.006 $ 6.5 1 Idling jet holder 25 41565.002 $ 0.4 1 Idle jet holder O Ring seal 26 74403.060 $ 3 1 Secondary idle jet 27 64700.010 $ 0 2 Fixing Screw 28 55510.038 $ 0 2 Lock Washer 29 31800.027 $ 0 1 Capsula minimo accelerato 30 - $ 0 1 Carburetor Body 31 47600.007 $ 2.3 1 Idle Screw Spring 32 64625.012 $ 6.5 1 Throttle Adjustment Screw 33 64595.013 $ 0 1 Secondary throttle adjusting screw 34 67016.092 $ 0 1 Carburettor shaft base. including: 35 10000.264 $ 0 1 Primary Throttle Shaft 36 41575.010 $ 3.2 1 Bushing 37 10015.273 $ 0 1 Secondary Throttle Shaft 38 64005.113 $ 0 2 — Throttle valve 39 64520.027 $ 0.6 4 Throttle plate screw 40 45048.124 $ 0 1 Throttle control lever 41 64595.035 $ 0 1 Throttles adjusting screw 42 34715.014 $ 1 1 Throttle Spindle Nut 43 55520.002 $ 1 1 Shaft Lock Tab 44 12775.092 $ 0 1 Boccola guida leva allentata 45 45069.092 $ 0 1 Lever 46 47610.175 $ 0 1 Molla leva allentata 47 47610.091 $ 0 1 Choke lever return spring 48 55555.019 $ 0.9 1 Shaft Spacer 49 41575.010 $ 3.2 2 Bushing 50 64700.016 $ 0 2 Fixing Screw 51 55510.018 $ 0 2 Lock Washer 52 61075.013 $ 4 1 Idle mixture tamper proof plug 53 64750.080 $ 0 1 Idle Mixture Screw 54 41565.010 $ 0 1 Idle Mixture Screw O Ring 55 39152.015 $ 0 1 Base Spacer Heat Gasket 56 43914.060 $ 0 1 Idle Cut Off Solenoid 57 55530.020 $ 0 1 — Rosetta ondulata 58 74409.060 $ 3 1 — Idle jet 59 41535.024 $ 0 1 Guarnizione Intercettatore minimo 60 34710.003 $ 1 1 Throttle Shaft Nut 61 55520.004 $ 1 1 Throttle Shaft Lock Washer 62 14850.140 $ 0 1 Pump Cam 63 12750.103 $ 0 1 Boccola distanziale leva allentata 64 55530.014 $ 0 1 Rosetta ondulata leva allentata minimo accel. 65 45067.048 $ 0 1 Leva allentata comando mimmo accelerato 66 10140.304 $ 0 1 Anello elastico ritegno leva allentata 67 55510.081 $ 1.2 1 Washer For Shaft 68 55525.001 $ 0 1 Spring Washer 69 34705.001 $ 0.8 1 Secondary shaft fixing nut 70 47600.092 $ 0 1 Pump Spring 71 47407.146 $ 0 1 Pump diaphragm 72 32486.084 $ 0 1 Accelerator Pump Cover 73 64565.001 $ 0 2 Screw 74 64700.019 $ 0 2 Pump Cover Screw 75 34715.003 $ 0 1 Nut 76 32240.501 $ 0 1 Interruttore unipolare 77 14975.081 $ 0 1 Cavo unipolare 78 58510.008 $ 0 1 Staffa interruttore 79 47407.182 $ 0 1 Membrana valvola piena potenza 80 47600.005 $ 3.5 1 Starter Valve Spring 81 32384.046 $ 0 1 Coperchio valvola piena potenza 82 64565.001 $ 0 3 Screw 83 64565.001 $ 0 4 Screw 84 52000.015 $ 1.1 1 Float pivot 85 32484.044 $ 0 1 Coperchio pompa pneumatica 86 47600.279 $ 0 1 Spring For Diaphragm 87 47407.163 $ 0 1 Membrana pompa pneumatica 88 73801.210 $ 3.7 1 Main jet 88 73801.140 $ 3 1 Main jet 89 61440.220 $ 9 1 Primary Emulsion Tube 89 61440.491 $ 0 1 Secondary Emulsion Tube 90 77201.160 $ 3 1 Secondary air correction jet 90 77201.170 $ 3 1 Primary Air Corrector Jet 91 76407.060 $ 13 1 Pump jet 92 41565.001 $ 0 1 Pump Jet ´O´ Ring 93 41565.008 $ 0.8 1 O ring 94 61075.002 $ 0 1 Tappo coperchio sgolfatore 95 70508.450 $ 0 1 Auxiliary Venturi Secondary 95 70508.450 $ 0 1 Auxiliary Venturi Primary 96 41705.072 $ 0 1 Top Cover Gasket 97 41015.004 $ 33.2 1 Float 98 79510.175 $ 0 1 Needle & Seat 99 83102.070 $ 1 1 Gasket for Needle Valve 100 43921.100 $ 0 1 Intercettatore ricircolo completo di: 101 55530.016 $ 0 1 — Wavy Washer 102 58000.019 $ 0 1 — Cup Washer 103 41565.001 $ 0 1 — Idle jet holder O Ring seal 104 74409.100 $ 3 1 — Idle jet 105 61002.019 $ 0 1 Fuel Filter Cover 1. Throttle nudger: On the XE/XF Falcons this is used to hold the throttle open slightly during an overrun condition by applying vacuum at the hose fitting. The screw in the top sets how much the throttle is held open. 2. Accelerator pump accumulator: Receives the fuel charge from the accelerator pump and controls the discharge rate of the fuel into the air stream. 3. Fuel inlet fitting. 4. Fuel filter plug. There is a small plastic filter under this plug. 5. Fuel return. On some models this is used to return fuel to the fuel tank when item 6 (below) is fitted. 6. Fuel return solenoid fitting. On some models there is a solenoid screwed into this fitting that energises when the throttle is closed, allowing fuel to return to the tank when at idle. 7. Idle solenoid. Allows fuel to flow in the idle circuit when this solenoid is energised. +12 Volts must be applied to this solenoid when the ignition is switched on. 8. Power bypass circuit actuator diaphragm. Allows fuel to flow in the power bypass circuit when low manifold vacuum is sensed. 9. Accelerator pump lever. 10. Electric automatic choke mechanism. Under the green plastic cover there is a heater element and a bi-metallic spring. +12 Volts is applied to the threaded stud in the centre when the ignition is on. The heater element heats up and in time, causes the bi-metallic spring to rotate the choke shaft, causing the choke to open. Loosening the three screws allows the cover to rotate, to adjust the choke to the correct fully open position after warm-up. 11. Fast idle screw. Adjusts the fast idle speed. Operates whenever the choke is partially closed. There are several steps of fast idle due to the operation of a stepped cam inside the choke mechanism. Adjustment should be made for fast idle on the first step after a cold start. Do not use this screw to adjust the normal idle speed. 12. Choke pull-off diaphragm. Cracks the choke open slightly as soon as the engine starts. Under the small brass plug at the centre there is a grub screw that adjusts how much the choke is cracked open. 13. Accelerator pump. Pumps fuel into the air stream, via the accelerator pump accumulator, during hard acceleration. 14. Idle speed screw. Adjusts the idle speed. To be adjusted only after the engine has reached operating temperature, and the choke is fully open. 15. Vacuum advance connection. Connects to the distributor vacuum advance diaphragm. 16. Idle mixture screw. Adjusts the idle fuel/air mixture. Stock jetting for 4.1l Crossflow Weber 34adm carburettor- Primary Idle: 70 Secondary Idle: 60 Primary Fuel: 140 Secondary Fuel: 210 Primary Air: 170 Secondary Air: 160 The following jetting, apparently gives excellent throttle response, very smooth idling and excellent pickup on secondaries. For a stock 3.3l Crossflow Motor. Primary Idle: 75 (70 factory fitment) Secondary Idle: 65 (60 factory fitment) Primary Fuel: 140 (135 factory fitment?) Secondary Fuel: 220 Primary Air: 160 (160 factory fitment) Secondary Air: 180 (160 factory fitment) There are five springs in total fitted in this carb. By process of elimination you can work out several of them but some are interchangable and if fitted incorrectly will cause mixture problems. So keep the springs with their correct counterpart. Shown are the vacuum passages to the power valve diaphragm and the boost accelerator pump. When vacuum drops to a pre-determined level the power valve diaphragm is pushed into the power jet which opens the ball to allow more fuel into the main circuit. Also the loss of vacuum applies an extra amount of fuel to the accelerator pump circuit over and above what the accelerator pump diaphragm will deliver. This will usually occur when the second barrel is opened suddenly. The different spring length & tension will operate these devices at differing vacuum settings. The vacuum to the power valve & accelerator pump boost diaphragms is supplied through this tube. The vacuum port continues down through to the base of the carb between the primary and secondary bores. The tube also acts as a location dowel. It is long enough to pass through the thick gasket and into the base. Now what can happen is that if you don't line up the dowel perfectly to the base and you attempt to tighten the base screws then the tube can be pushed further into its bore in the body of the carb. The end result is a blocked vacuum passage. This will result in a rich cruise mixer and a hesitation when the second barrel opens suddenly. To check that the passage is unobstructed, place you mouth on the tube and suck or attach a tight hose and suck on it. It should feel easy to suck through. If not then this is what needs to be done. Remove the tube and the easiest way to do this is to stick a drill into the tube, then use a small pair of vice grips to grip it and twist it out. Cut a slot into the tube and then refit it back into the hole. Make sure the slot lines up with the vacuum passage and the tube protrudes through the thick gasket so it can line up with the base. The slot does not have to be as long as in the photo. If the tube is fitted at the correct depth, this mod would be unnecessary. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/FORD-FALCON-WEBER-34-ADM-SERVICE-KIT/264174927546?epid=2102017418&hash=item3d820d7eba:g:kYYAAOSwFV9X1ukr https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/WEBER-34-ADM-CARBURETTOR-SERVICE-KIT-FORD-FALCON-3-3-4-1/201732658915?hash=item2ef83416e3:g:RbgAAOSwa~BYPWPJ https://www.meat-doria.com/en/product_meat/W552.1 https://www.meat-doria.com/en/product_meat/W552
  3. 2 points
    Panko

    Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)

    Not much new happening with the Esky. I took it out for a spin for the first time since we went into lockdown. Since its last drive, I changed the accelerator pump jet back to a single squirt jet, so it wasnt pumping fuel down the second barrel when the butterfly was closed. It took a bit to get started, then it was a real pig for a while lol. coughing, backfiring through the carby. Driving it, it had the hesitation back, mid revs again. i was thinking it was the pump jet again. in anger, i did a U turn to head home, and gave it a squirt, WOT through every gear, right to red line, up to 100km/h....and presto, the hesitation went away. so kept going for my drive for about an hour. God it is nice to drive, compared to the XF and Discovery, with with steering boxes and recirculating ball steering. the Escort feels so so tight by comparison. **NOW FOR A BIT OF A RANT** The link below is to an eBay ad for a Mk1 Escort the same as mine, 1975 1300XL, thats for sale in the UK. the moment i look at it, i knew it was an Australian car. the thing is immaculate. better than mine Sure enough, the guy bought it and took it from Australia in 2013, now he is selling it, and he clearly makes a point of saying he wont sell to anyone abroad (no international sales). This really, REALLY pisses me off. They buy them out of Australia due to the lack of rust in our cars, and the fact our shells are better (double plated strut towers for example), then they pull this crap. Fair game when it was for sale in Australia, for him to grab it, but to then refuse to sell it back to anyone who might want to bring it back to Australia, what a shit act IMO. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283882802254?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2648
  4. 2 points
    Mr Polson

    New Motor for Rods Mad Maxy Ute

    You can get rubber gaskets for the xflow rocker cover, I've got one on my wagon. Acts as a bit of a spacer too.
  5. 2 points
    motoSycho

    New Motor for Rods Mad Maxy Ute

    I was thinking two of the paper gaskets. And more parts arrived today. Leads and clutch. It's pink, so you know it is good
  6. 1 point
    bear351c

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Get your speedo recalibrated. Most gauge/instrument shops can fix the "out by 10 kays issue". Install GPS speedo on your phone, drive a couple of kays at 60 on the speedo, look at phone, write down reading. Drive a couple of kays ay 80km/h, look at phone, same at 100, and at 120.
  7. 1 point
    I'll just leave this here.........
  8. 1 point
    Has anybody ever converted a BW coil spring diff over to leaf spring? I have 3 LSD diffs sitting in the shed ( all coil) and want to change put the 2.77 form the XC to the 3.45 LSD out of an Eseries XR6/8. The process seems pretty straight forward, cut off all the shit I dont need and wend the spring hangers i bought on. Obviously observing pinion angle and getting the bastard centered correctly. I was wondering are the dimension of the diffs are the same? I havent measured yet. Yes i realise brake fittings are different as well, just mainly concerned about diff width etc.
  9. 1 point
    found the pic (or one of) on google, not sure if xfalcon will have the photos still working (being photobucketed) http://www.xfalcon.com/forums/index.php?/topic/17057-the-n00bus-ute-not-budget-friendly-any-more-p/page-24
  10. 1 point
    That pic isn't terrible exactly, just really unattractive. Lose the top brackets and I'd maybe close in the bottom one to almost be a solid box so it looks like a block. Paint it all black and it would disappear pretty much. But if you've got the perches I'd go with those too.
  11. 1 point
    Yeah i dont think i would do it that way. I have some spring perches already. im just concerned the diff width will be to wide for the XC. I guess the best way to find out is to remove th current diff and do some measuring. I dont want to cut the coil mounts of until i am sure cause ill use it in the XE if it wont suit the XC.
  12. 1 point
    Panko

    Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)

    Yeah i know its not impossible, but i just find this sort of thing so so shit. im not the only, a lot of guys from the car club, including ex pat UK folk, dont agree with this sort of shit
  13. 1 point
    gregaust

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    The 8 tooth is the most common I have come across .
  14. 1 point
    deankdx

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    typed in the wrong spot.. read above
  15. 1 point
    Yes, the shocks in the spare Outback look original Dave. I'm not pulling them out just to put up some pics.... and then I'd have to put them back in. They are plain black. I have already crawled around under her to supply the original shock part numbers off them for this thread. Sorry mate, but I think you forget I have a back injury and am on a disability pension. I really struggle to do anything on the ute. It's going to be a big enough job for me just to fit the new magnums up to Big Red when they get here, I'm only doing that because I can't afford to pay someone else to do it. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk
  16. 1 point
    gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Nah wasn't me mate, I know nothing about these things Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  17. 1 point
    deankdx

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    with My rule of guessing, i would go for an 18 tooth gear. that's IF the same rule applies to the FMX as it does to the BW boxes.. (1 tooth makes about 10% ish ) so going from 20 tooth to 18 tooth might be close.. BUT.. on My other rule.. which is more accurate.. is ask someone that's running a similar combo what they have
  18. 1 point
    SPArKy_Dave

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Example - Drive gear = 6 teeth (common on C6 Transmissions) Gear ratio = 3.45:1 Tyre Rev per mile = 786.89 Divide by 1001  6 x 3.45 x 786.89 / 1001 = 16.27 Teeth 
  19. 1 point
    SPArKy_Dave

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    The worm drive, looks like it's machined into the output shaft, on that transmission? I'd try a driven gear with less teeth, to speed it up? Driven Gear Teeth = Drive Gear Teeth x Gear Ratio x Tyre Revolutions per mile, divided by 1001. Tyre Revolutions per mile = 20,168 divided by Tyre Diameter in Inches Tyre Diameter in Inches = (section width x aspect ratio divided by 2540x2 + Wheel Diameter Example - 225 x 60/2540 x2 + 15 = 25.63 20,168 / 25.63 = 786.89 Example - Drive gear = 6 teeth (common on C6 Transmissions) Gear ratio = 2.92:1 Tyre Rev per mile = 786.89 Divide by 1001 6 x 2.92 x 786.89 / 1001 = 13.77 Teeth Smallest you can get is 16teeth I think? So it will probably be out about 10km/hr, but heaps better.
  20. 1 point
    gerg

    New Motor for Rods Mad Maxy Ute

    Yeah that would work if you know everything's straight. I like Dirko or ThreeBond myself. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  21. 1 point
    motoSycho

    New Motor for Rods Mad Maxy Ute

    Yeah I can see if I can get a few cut. 8mm thick?
  22. 1 point
    deankdx

    New Motor for Rods Mad Maxy Ute

    if you are getting one cut, and it's repeatable? you could get a "spare" one cut or a few perhaps.
  23. 1 point
    deankdx

    New Motor for Rods Mad Maxy Ute

    i learned in the early days(doing a mates car that we didn't have a spare yoke) get a plastic bag and tape it on, wrap a rag over the end and tape that on, plastic bag again and tape it up.. usually can bump the firewall without poking a hole in it.. if it does it may not piss out. i have seen plastic cap things designed for it in Repco or somewhere.
  24. 1 point
    Does the spare XG Outback, still have the original shock absorbers in it? Could you remove them for pics, to add into this thread?
  25. 1 point
    gerg

    The T5 Conversion Thread

    Was driving my Wags the other day towing a fucking trailer of course and something went clunk underneath and the clutch went really heavy, and barely worked. Got it home and had a look, clutch fork pivot had snapped its rivets off and was sitting there flopping around still clipped to the fork. Found that my slave is now fucked too. This is after i replaced the master about a month ago after it let go in traffic on a 36 degree day, mrs and kids in the car on the way to the beach. Fuck. Anyway so my T5 conversion has been fast-tracked cause i need the wags for family duties, getting to work, waking up the neighbours, etc. Made up a bolt-on bracket to mount the slave onto (my bellhousing is an a ancient mechanical type with no slave mount holes) Been slowly getting bits together lately: New slave $50 Sunbury 11" diaphragm clutch kit $299 Chucked the flywheel on the lathe and shaved it down to 10.5 kg from 13.1 Got it skimmed $40 New pilot $22 Bolted the pivot in where the rivets broke Ok so today it all went in... It was a conga-line of fuckups.... First, had to get my little bloke from school after just 45 min because he was playing up. Tried to do the grease behind the pilot bearing trick, trying to knock it out, couldn't find a good sized drift to put in, used a bolt and some electrical tape, ended up just spraying grease all over my face. Then tried to slide-hammer it out of the crank and the needle roller bit came out and left the outer casing in there. Fuck. Had to drill out each side of it to collapse it and pull out the pieces. They're soft as shit, must be grey iron or something. Even dinged the new one knocking it in with a copper hammer. Couldn't get the petrol compressor running right, had to fuck around with the carby. Needed it to run the rattle gun to do up the flywheel bolts. Another 1/2 hour gone. Had to cut the floor a bit to clear the T5 shifter. Rough as guts job, done with a 9" cutter disc. Haven't built my shed yet, so working out in the open in 40 degree heat, rolling around on a concrete slab with leaves and twigs everywhere, grease and shit in my hair, tools all over the place not organised, all too hot to touch in the sun. Stripped a crossmember bolt Snapped the grease nipple off the throw-out bearing, eventually found another one. Another 1/2 hour wasted. Little bloke decided while i was under the car, that he wanted hugs with daddy. Thanks mate, perfect timing. And no matter how much you drain a manual box, you always get that bit of oil spill out the back when you tip it up. On you, of course. Did i mention it was fucking hot? Anyway phone camera isn't working so no pics for future reference (yet).
This leaderboard is set to Melbourne/GMT+10:00


×