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Sweet ordered today, 1 left in NZ for 38 bucks. Sent from my SM-J330G using Tapatalk

it should be a fairly simple swap other than wiring, the ba engine mounts, bellhousing, clutch, flywheel power steering pump should all bolt up to any au engine, the sumps are almost identical between au and be with the only difference being internal to suit the different types of oil pump the engines have from each other externally au series 2 and 3 sumps are the same as ba/bf with f2f being different again, if you want to use a ba alternator you will need a series 2 or 3 au engine as the series one engine has different bosses cast into the block and is missing the boss cast into the sump for the alternator mount, you will have to use au (or e series) intake manifold and exhaust manifold/ extractors, as far as wiring goes you can use the au wiring and loom to run the engine with smartlock turned off via a j3 chip (t.a performance sells them), you can use the ba loom and ECU to run the au engine, this does require modifying the ba loom and re tuning the ECU it is tricky but if your half decent at wiring you could do it yourself or if you go to Facebook and look up Bill hooton (he can be found on a couple of the barra conversion pages) he can sell you pre modified a ba loom and ECU to suit au, from what I've heard he has a very good reputation and is very fairly priced or you can go aftermarket ECU if your class allows it, and finally clarkos performance does ac delete brackets for 4.0l

it's postable.. they send pallets over the ditch even

@CHESTNUTXE will have a 3.45 gear surplus soon (if its for a borgwarner gearbox?)

Cool. Learning every day, thanks for that.

learning stuff all the time. COOL(or warm, with heater turned on)

My car however at some stage had a really old Smiths Beehive heater with fan , fitted to the car, probably because the original heater core leaked which was very common. It works great and is toasty warm it’s still got the old bakerlite hi/low switch. Cheers Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

see that riveted ring gear..(pic below) i've heard a car with them so loose the rattle would make you swear the flywheel was going to fall off.. was one of the first things i sold when i started selling Xseries parts back when i wrecked one for parts for the daily

Bolts line up on on ba flex plate to my converter and atleast visually when stacked on-top of each other ba and xf flex plate appear to be same size and same tooth count (I can't be bothered counting) think I'll slap it in when the time comes and see what happens Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Sounds about right, cause the cranks themselves changed only slightly through the years all the way to the end. If it's the slightly wonky 6 bolt pattern then it's the same as Windsor, Clevo, 400M, and inline 6s, only difference from 87DA onward is metric 10mm instead of 7/16" UNF. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

Freight is not the killer. It is the bank transfer. My better half normally does all that for me, however she is in hospital for at least another month and a half. But if Chestnut is right that ford have them available, i can order through work Sent from my SM-J330G using Tapatalk

You can still buy the 22 grey from ford under au part number thats how i got mine about 50 bux Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk

EL GT had 3.45 Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk

Meant to type xr6 at the start. Not sure why i said xr8. Sent from my SM-J330G using Tapatalk

Single rail box so yeah. But wrong side of the ditch lol. Sent from my SM-J330G using Tapatalk

Didn't onlyxr6 have 3.45 v8 had 3.27 Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk

Like to thanks everyone’s input and olm8 for photo’s

Yeah your right, I’ll probably regret it when I need it one day but it’s getting cut for now.

Maybe the only XY POV packs like mine and other early XY’s got the blow through heater from the XW? or even the XT? Most of them got the big box that you would normally think of for a xy heater. I’m no expert. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

wonder if that's aftermarket, someone's bodged one on from something else. haven't seen anything like that before, but haven't really worked on PRE XA though

Hi dean this is that the xw heater box I posted about and doesn’t seem to have blower fan,maybe it missing or it just runs using airflow Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

if it was near the drivers headlight, then it would be the driving light/fog light wire i think also. can't remember any other wires that were round like that. other than the temp sender and maybe the choke wire on the XE(not applicable to XD)

Imperial or big is 7/16th unf from memory

Hi all, I’m new to this place it’s only my second ever post. I’ve got a XY , 6cyl 250 pre cross flow car, that’s 3 speed column manual,bench seat. I’m looking for info and tips on converting it to a 4 speed single rail. I’ve got some questions... Is it worthwhile doing? Will it drive better? My hydro clutch and fork is on the passenger side, can I keep my existing bell housing and all internals , clutch and flywheel etc? Do I need to mod the tailshaft length? Gear lever clearance near the bench seat all ok? Speedo drive/cable mods? Other than the box , what other parts do I need? Any info or tips would be appreciated. If anyone’s got a good single rail box for sale ,I heard the Cortina box is better ? please pm me. Happy to pay freight also. Thank you OLM8 PS it’s just a cruiser, patina paint, original car, nothing fancy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mate this one's a deusie... As I was reading each thing you tried, I would think of another thing and you'd already tried that too. You say "breaking down" as if it feels like coil breakdown. Maybe instead of continuing throwing nice expensive parts at it, you could just book a bit of dyno time with someone who knows carbies. You can load up the engine and watch what the ignition is doing on an oscilloscope and/or timing light, also AFRs will tell how the carby is tuned. Often, carby problems are ignition problems. Being a mechanic myself, am no fan of paying someone else to spin spanners on my old jalopies, but sometimes you just need someone with the right gear to get to the heart of the matter. How have you got the MSD hooked up? They want a direct supply to and from the battery, not from your key switch. At peak output, they do draw quite a few amps. Plug gaps aren't anywhere near as fussy with MSD. It generally fires them no matter how fouled or worn they are, so you can pretty much rule that issue out. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk