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Only if you want to retain the factory original Kirby Bishop fuel pump. In my experience, the Goss aftermarket pumps are trouble. If you have an original fuel pump on there, I would always suggest to rebuild it (same for Alternator, starter etc). If the original one isn't there, then yeah, the Fuel Miser pumps are a direct copy (made in Korea, by Daewha Fuel pumps ltd), of the original Kirby pumps, https://daewha.en.ec21.com/ For anyone with a Goss pump, going back to factory (or fuel miser), you'll need to source an inverted flare fitting, for the carby hard-line. (I believe they're tapered 1/8 NPT, to 5/16 inverted flare) Goss pumps have the flare fitting in-built. Factory and fuel miser pumps have a separate brass fitting.

Dave will most likely be able to answer this one the quickest but I’ll ask as general anyway , Does anyone know of a factory option in the AUs for a VCR in the boot along with a DVD player with an entertainment screen in the cabin, apparently fitted with games as well? I have picked up a system out of a AU Fairmont that has the factory GPS set up, but it came with all of the above as well. Now before we all jump the guns, it ALL has Ford badging on it, and not just some Ebay stickers. I have all the wiring that goes with it. All I wanted was the GPS set up but it all came together. For the life of me, I have never heard of anything like it, excluding limos obviously, that may have had all those options but this was in a AU Fairmont sedan. I forgot to get photos before I left last week but I’ll post some next week when I get home, but someone might know in the meantime what the go is. The plan is if I get time during the Christmas break I’ll be installing it into the Silver Elephant.

Yes that is correct with the AU, Scotty Sutton (On Facebook) has the E series and a trim of the AC bracket and it will clear. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The motor can remain stock as it’s only a cruiser, will run a C4 and retain the stock LSD diff. Will run Holley EFI. PACEMAKER now make specific headers to suit GT40p heads into a X series. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thom is bang on with the pulley spacings, I have a V belt set up that I haven’t used as crank, water pump and Alt did not line up, so cheated and used a gilmour style. You could muck around with spacers but I couldn’t be bothered, once set up and running true the gilmour is good, I’ve never had an issue and mine gets some big revs. No PS for mine mate. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine is all old set up, I can use the old brackets as I only have the water pump and alternator to run. I have a generic Windsor alt bracket. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

they will but you have to swap timing cover, water pump and you need a balancer to suit v belts that also is a 58ounce balancer

Crossys are imperial, E-series are metric , so no go sorry mate Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

Yeah I’ve had a look fuelmisor do a new one for $83 so I’ll probably just go with that, shit timing though as I was going to get the blue slip today [emoji23] oh well guess it can wait another week or 2 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Check out Kilkenny Castings, South Oz. Should be available at Auto parts stores.

there's nothing meant to go in there. i suspect, like the waterpump hole, it's designed to let the fuel out(coolant on the water pump) when they fail.. you'd need a new fuel pump is My suspicion., lucky it's not going into the sump, infact, you should check your oil, if it's thin or higher than it was.. change it also because it will be contaminated with fuel and not as good with lubrication but can also cause other issues if so. @SPArKy_Dave will probably be able to confirm this

Yeah il check all this out tomorrow,as when i crank it now its not even coffing or backfiring.yeh very tru you never know what someone has done to it prior.will give ya an update in next day or two cheers for ya help

Hey demmo, those wiring diagrahms you wanted are here on the site. Either in my ute thread or one of the threads I made on it. I cant upload again, my phone wont do it...poxy phone. I think you may of fried the fuel pump relay, that gets the signal from ecu to prime pumps. That would explain the no priming. Hopefully its just that. Remember yours is xh and mine xg, so wiring diagrahms may not help from my manual. On the xg the fuel pump relay is on the drivers side on the body near the brake fluid resi. If the wiring shorted its possible that fried. Hope that helps. Jack.

Goes both ways. I have T2's on mine and wanted them machined. They had no run-out but did have a slight taper due to some heavy abuse. Took it in to be machined at a reputable specialist. Got it back, taper was gone, but now the rotor had run-out that was more than double the factory max tolerance. Took it back and said 'Oi!' They run em up again, but still the run-out was not within factory spec. I know by this point I've wasted man hours pulling thebortors off and putting em back on, and they could not try to mahine again as the rotor would become too thin. They assured me it would be fine, and i got them to sign a receipt and put a 10,000km warranty on it. Just in case it ended up with pulsation or uneven contact and they'd buy me some new T2's. Anyway, morale to the story, with single piece rotor and hubs, it's probably best to just get them replaced. Or have them machined on the car. they are difficult to machine off the car due to the inbuilt bearing cups and require a very accurate jig to get right.

Go to the pacemaker website. I found them today. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve decided that I’m going to look for either an E series or AU series 5.0, as long as the front dress is complete with the AC, Alt and PS so that I can put it in my XF. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What did you do with that factory roller 351w a while back? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah that isn’t right. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ll send a photo of mine showing the basic set up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This suits 50oz and suits 3 and 4 bolt pulleys. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

DB1046 are for an XD rear caliper. Some late XC too. Look like these.......

you have to find the right combination of aftermarket and stock parts to make it work

It probably will, but the spacing is all wrong

Lol .. if I had the money, I'd pay some bills [emoji23] Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

the front accessories on an au to e series are not interchangeable without swapping everything, if you want to use e series stuff you will have to change all the brackets, alternator, p/steer pump, idlers and tensioners as well as timing cover, water pump and balancer to suit e series, the au front dress is shorter than e series and makes the whole engine shorter by about an inch