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This is where I am up to. Progress has been really slow, because I am now back at work, and we are smashed at work at the moment now that restrictions have been all but lifted. This is the driver's side strut complete. I had to get the hubs machined down on a lathe, which I knew was the case, to replicate Cortina Mk2/Capri hubs. Very very little space. I potentially will need to get a tad more off yet. But it does clear and run freely.

I was going to suggest silicone spray, as it's fairly inert once the solvent evaporates and is invisible. I have successfully freed up BA Falcon belts where they gum up with skin oil (especially with smokers) in the top eye and don't retract. I'm not 100% sure about the older mechanisms, but the newer ones have a little ball bearing on a cam that wedge together when the belt is pulled quickly. If there's gummy crap or dried/dusty residue in there, it could be why it has no locking action. My suggestion is the same as yours, wash in warm, soapy water but lightly lube the mechanism with said silicone. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

if the belts themselves are stiff from sitting/dirt etc it may pay to wash them. i've done it in the past by just undoing the top bolt on the B pillar(shoulder height bolt) you might want to remove the pillar trim, there's sometimes a rubbery patch thing that falls in the path of the belt behind there(think it's meant to stop dust getting in the pillar where the reel lives) if you do remove the reel also, they are very fiddly to get back unlocked if you let it reel all the way in. they need to be perfectly level horizontally and vertically. made much harder when it's reeled ALL the belt in.. need to slowly jiggle the belt to unlock it.. ah fun times. and bringing a bucket of warm water and 2 towels you don't care about anymore(they'll get filthy and may not come clean) with some of your favourite clothes washing powder (Aldi Almat, or omo etc) put a table spoon of washing power in your bucket of water, reel out the belt as long as you can, and wash it in the bucket, sometimes they are really gunky and may need a scrub with scourer/brush also. basically wash the belt as best you can.. wipe it with one towel till it's not transferring grime.. then you can get some clean water to rinse it.. and dry off with the other towel. don't wear a white T shirt for a while lol .. they'll probably still be dirty and a little damp, lucky in this weather they should dry fairly fast when extended out (remaining bolted to to the pillar at the bottom is your best chance to be able to have them unlock again. reason it's not locking now is it can't react quick enough due to being stiff belts in my opinion. they can be rewebbed/reconditioned but it's expensive. normally isn't needed. some people lubricate the belts with silicon spray, i don't..

That will be a sweet engine, but I think your machine shop guy is going to have a little chat to you about giving it some extra berries seeing as you say the block is something special, it can defs handle it. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

this one i have actually used b4 about 10 years ago on a xe sedan with 4 speed and 351c and is a nice mannerd street cam h268https://www.ebay.com/itm/133374008819

I found a nice deal from USA e bay comp cam lifters and chain for $280us the cam is 494/494 on 110 and 218@50 just remember I'm using new steel rockers not roller rockers ,that Elgin cam I used in the other 400 is out of stock 505lift ect it's really popular and the factory hasn't made any more since covid stopped a lot of businesses production. Sent from my SM-A125F using Tapatalk

yeah the old belts like BGDAVs F100(XC era) needed this clean with proper soap, silicone won't do it. it's unlikely that ball/locking mech from my experience. this has worked for 100% of my locking/retracting issues. even if the belts are stuffed with frayed edges it's still the fix for the retracting/locking issue. if they are frayed, you can get them re webbed it's called, be nice on a full resto, but a resurrection like you have i'd be doing the minimum for the short term

Thank you for your help. As always, you're a life saver Dean. I'll give it a go. Still have a few more exterior mechanical tasks to complete first, but it sounds like something that I can do... Much appreciated.

My springs suit 540 lift and can't find a cleveland roller hyd cam 540 or a tad smaller on lift,there is one by comp but it's only a very small roller 505 lift and tow ect cam. Sent from my SM-A125F using Tapatalk

I think this will have the kahoonas to pull from idle even with a cam. Stock, nice and tight converter is the go I reckon Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Gonna have to shop around for a better price but I'll save that site as an absolute last resort.

i have seen ads for glass restoration, can't remember now also saw NEW door glass for utes last week but be sitting down for the price https://glass4classics.com.au/product/xa-xb-xc-ford-ute-van-all-side-windows-new-glass/

I know I go on about this block that's cause it's rare as ,let's start with typical big block bell pattern,1971 cast D1AE with no abbreviations after it is high nickel,STD bore with typical cleveland style pan rails ,3 inch mains and large 2 bolt caps,has light surface rust in bores but will clean up fine at 020 or 030 ,see the sought of pillows cast into it ,this is where maybe the Geelong foundry got the idea for the XE pillow block castings.i have also had it milled to suit a svo 351w 1 piece rear main seal Sent from my SM-A125F using Tapatalk

I looked into this years ago and found out there are some kits you can get to remove scratches. Never got one though. Ended just getting different glass from a wrecker.