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The standard efi brain box can't cope with much at all. Unless it's a stock rebuild for authenticity, I'd go with an aftermarket computer and loom if your chasing any sort of performance or even just reliability out of the car. Everything on them is just so old and antiquated it's very hard to keep them running nicely in standard form, let alone with a bump stick. A good aftermarket computer like a haltec haltec can be had for very little dollars in reality. It will give you endless tuning options, the after sales support is tremendous and with all modern sensors the old girl will purr. The next best compromise would be an e series computer graft in and chip. The reality is the cam they list for efi compatability would give very little improvement over a FRESH stock engine.

Zetec is the same bellhousing bolt pattern as the Kent. 2.0 blacktop with a C3, cheap as That said, if performance isn't an issue, 1600 Kent with the C3, no hassles

Going to beat everyone in to it, make sure it’s a standard volume oil pump not high volume ! [emoji3] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Plus 1 for precision. They are doing a lot more direct selling now and they have good stuff at close to trade prices. Shop around and buy the components individually and you will save plenty. That camtech cam will work nice. Make sure you order the efi gasket set. Even tho it's a stock rebuild, id put a rollmaster double row chain in it. Precision sell JP gear sets and I'm not a fan. Ebay has rollmaster units at good pricing.

Hahaha I think we’ve been hanging around the forums too long Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

High volume give Ando high blood pressure Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

Hi mate, I'd recommend a nice mild street cam for most applications, something about 205 to 215 duration @.050" and 450 to 500 lift. I had a similar part in my Cleveland and it was a hoot, very linear and nice to drive. Something like the 14776 or 14892 from Crow Cams. Descriptions tend to go something like "Great midrange performance, suit mild street engine," with and rpm range about 1500 to 4500 or so. If you're after something to work with stock EFI you're going to be limited. The duration, lobe centres and overlap tend to want to stay the same, you can increase lift a bit but will be limited by the other parameters. The 14221 does indeed looks to fit most of the criteria as its on the same 109 deg lobe sep angle and has very similar overall durations (270 vs 260), with only mildly extended duration @.050 (205 vs 197), whilst lift is improved nicely (470+ vs 439). If you're dead set on retaining everything original the EFI will limit you, consider an EFI box... or even going back to a good aftermarket carby. - boingk

Ha ha, ando will be here soon boys don't worry, gotta love how we all instantly knew what the joke was

My neighbor buys cars at auction for wrecking and fixing, when he was getting XD and E’s, he used to let me take what I wanted for free, so I stocked up, glad I did, I’ve got 2 to maintain. doing the same now with B series.

i saw one recently chopped up on an ESCORT Mk2 and also one chopped up on a gemini (one might have been an XD one, even rarer) i've never seen them for under $50, but i bought TWO Whole XE S PACK WAGONS for $300 each about 10yrs ago.. sold the spoilers off each for $150 each.. was half way back to Free cars. i sold the last set of GHIA XE lights for $70 the pair.. .. yeah.. wish i held onto them now(was probably 15yrs ago, .. but.. around that time, i also could have bought any one of 5 XE ghias for sale for under $500 each just on gumtree/ebay etc i bought the one for the lexus V8 for $350 from memory... on the same rule... My brothers XB fairmont was $180, with 6 months rego in about 1991.. yes ONE HUNDRED AND EIGHTY DOLLARS mine had nyloc nuts and bolts in a few places with washers.. could still rip one off though if no fucks given..

with a stock cam and 3.9 diff you'll be starting off in 3rd gear, this will NOT suit a stock small revving engine combo at all(mine was crap with 3.23 ratio and T5 with small cam) if i had a 3.9 diff i'd want an engine combo that revved to 6000 happily. so here's the choice in my opinion.. fit aftermarket EFI computer, or a carby manifold and go big on the cam and engine work.. or keep it stock with 2.92 or 2.77 diff gears . @CHESTNUTXE had unsuitable gears recently on his ute. @ando76 what would you suggest with 3.9 diff gears? do you agree they need big revs to be useful/enjoyable

Email Camtech.

Its funny, when I see people here and on FB asking for parts like these, my first thought is, “ha, didn’t realise they were that hard to come by, I’ve got half a dozen sitting in the shed”, but things like lip spoilers, I got when you could get them for $10, now, I just feel glad I’m not trying to build a car now days.

This.... Although I'm light years away from needing any sort of drive line.

yeah, there's no harm in having spares ! especially of stuff that hasn't been remade, im expecting to have to pay north of $250 for a lip that needs work, which is OK, as I will make it back if I can get them remade, my car is not an esp or even a spak so I don't plan on spending heaps for "the look", and not in any hurry, got heaps to do like finish the rust repairs, get club rego and then do the barra swap, hopefully a lip will present itself in the next few months

You call it hoarding, I call it, having spares of parts that you can’t get anymore.

Just hold off, until @ando76 replies... he's forgotten more about crossflows, than most of us will ever know.

yeah if i cant get the holley right before the weekend ill put some new diaphragms in a XE webber and put that back on had a look at the 3 i had and every webber had crusty as hell diaphragms and a few new gaskets just a minor rebuild i guess.

a few years ago one of my mates trimmed the bottom edge off a ratty bumper and screwed it on upside down

@ando76 may be the one to know, about standard EFI system running a different cam i'm not "everyone else" when it comes to the EFi, i've seen how even a standard cam with a worn lobe caused the XF Efi to be a royal pain to run right.

No I think on a stock 250, a 350 should have 57s in it. The flat spot might be a pump problem, but you need to establish that first by slowly opening the throttle and seeing if the flat spot comes at a steady state or on opening only. If it's happening while quickly opening the throttle, then the acc pump might need some tuning. First have a look at the squirter size, if they are any bigger than 28, that might be your problem. 25s would be ideal. The squirter diameter along with the pump cam determines how long the shot goes for. If you have something massive in there, it will dump it all in too early and either not leave enough to cover the transition or be too much for the engine to cope with at once, and drown it. Next look at the pump cam. There are charts available but I think the pink ones they normally come with are pretty good all rounders for most mild carbies. Also check pump arm adjustment and that the arm is engaging the cam. Sometimes these carbies were coming from the factory with the arm riding on the throttle return spring instead of the cam next to it. There is literature out there on the pump adjustment but briefly, open it to full throttle and check that there's a couple of mm clearance till the lever bottoms out the diaphragm. That's a ballpark method anyway. Adjust the little bolt with the spring on it. After ruling out the acc pump, check transition from the intermediate circuit (fed from the idle circuit but not adjustable) to the boosters (main circuit metered by the jets) by running the engine and slowly rolling the throttle open so that acc pump fuel doesn't affect mixture. Keep bringing the revs up while looking down the carby and noting any harshness or lean spots before fuel starts dribbling out of the boosters. If there is a stumble just before you see fuel, you have a lean spot between transition and main circuits, which can be cured by raising the float level. If you have an externally adjustable float needle, happy days. If not, unfortunately you have to pull off the bowl and bend the tab on the float lever till you get this right. Raising the float level does two things to the transition: it delivers fuel for longer out of the transition slots and has the boosters come on sooner in relation to throttle opening. In other words, it takes less airflow to get them working. Also check that nobody has messed with the bleeds. That will have the same effect of bringing the boosters on later. On a side note... It's a shame that you can't get hold of a good Weber. They are superior to the 350 in every way. If talking in 4 barrel terms, the 350 is really only 280 CFM. 2-barrels are tested to a higher vacuum (3”) than 4-barrels (1.5”) to obtain their maximum flow rating. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

Wait for it

Don't sell yourself short mate, your info was great. Thanks for posting. It's stuff like this that helps anyone doing up the old Fords. Excellent thread.

probably isn't one.. i haven't seen anyone keep the factory ecu etc if they did. otherwise you'd be going back in time so far you might need to search on xfalcon.com that site is still going, but not much happens there anymore. if you aren't doing head work, then a cam and valve springs and raising the compression would be the MILD? build.. (with extractors and 2.5" exhaust)

Hi bear, I hope these help. Mine is a 6 cyl c4 xc. The top of the console mount is 20 mm off the top of the tunnel. I’ll get some specific measurements if you like. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk