The headlight switch might be the culprit for the dash lights. If can find a good one to try, that might narrow down the issue. If the car has a towbar, check the connections where the trailer plug wiring taps into the factory harness. If they used scotch locks, it may have severed the tail light section due to age or vibration.

I'm working on a 07 fairmont for a friend that has no tail or dash lights even though all the fuses are ok and it has no relevant dtc's. I haven't gotten a good chance to look at it and inspect the harnesses but I'm hoping someone here has some pointers as to what it could be. Right now Im suspecting a break in the harness for the tail lights but I really have no clue to whats wrong. Thanks in advance for any help you can offer, I only get at this thing half an hour at a time so any and all help is welcome!

So the variable resistor in my ZD's headlight switch has clapped out. I bought a switch from rare spares and the dash lights are very dim at best. Is there a way to bypass the resistor on my original switch? Preferably without starting a fire behind my dash...

Id go for a GT35 as they come on boost instantly on a 250 anyway.Convert to a 4 barrel set up as your about to jam it full of air. A 2 barrel is too small on a 200 engine let alone a 250. Id measure compression first before lowering it and if it's around 10.1 leave it alone or your making it a laggy by lowering compression for no reason. I know you don't want to make a million hp but your actually treating it better if you let it become more efficient. Upside you don't need to push it as hard to get the results you want.   Id fit a programable ignition too. EST dizzy and ecu or maf control. Then you can run 28 plus degrees @ idle and low RPM no boost then drop timing as boost comes on. 

275s will fit very nice. 

Thanks mate.   Thats what i was hoping. Do you think a 275 will fit?  

Holy what a blast from the past, forgot all about this forum. From memory 15x10s with a 5” backspace fitted quite nicely. 

Hi Mate.   Howd you go with the 15X10s?    we are getting a xw gt replica and want to know the biggest tyres you have been able to fit without scrubbing.   We have some 15x10 centerlines that where going on our p6. pretty sure 5"backspace.

XB style knob might be similar to something from a celica from the 1970s with the same pattern as a T5 (different thread, but could be tapped possibly?)   the XG clutch plate might fit in the 3 speed pressure plate, i can't remember if the T5 pressure plate will have 3 or 6 bolts.. if it's 3 bolt it will bolt on, and if it's 6 bolt, it might still bolt on. but ideally you'd drill more holes. 

the hole for the shifter is basically dictated by the hump, it fits the floor/tunnel snug, trace around it.. leaving a fair edge around the sides, and put the hump further back than snug forward (when i fitted a T5 to My XE the hump was rubbing on the shifter housing initially.. i just removed the hump screws, and set it back 5mm ish, drilled new holes.. and hammerd the floor a bit more at the back)

The XG hump is spot welded onto the floor, you should be able to use it in the same way, but it's bulkier from memory.   

Been speaking with the mechanic whonis doing the conversion for me, He's pretty certain it'll be an easy swap over using the old 3 speed bellhousing and clutch assembly. The main thing he's concerned about is cutting a hole in the floor, thank christ all the parts for that are now easily available as repro's....not cheap but a whole lot easier than trying to find 50 year old parts at a wreckers or online somewhere.   If only the was an XB style gearshift knob with the T5 layout printed on it...🤣