Hmmm Interesting info Slydog.   I have looked at a 4bbl setup for the Pre Xflow, most of the info I have been looking at for carb blow through systems recommended a carb on the slightly smaller size compared to a draw through system that needs quite a bit of CFM. I'm bit miffed on what is correct, I'd imagine that going for an Aussiespeed 4bbl manifold and the sniper 4100 4 bbl efi system would be the safest option as the EFI is only going to use what it needs and wont "over carb" the engine.    The compression is a bit mystery side of things, no real markings on the pistons other than indicating that they are 0.030 over, but they are dished. the Head itself looks like it might of had a small amount of material removed from the surface, the combustion chamber look huge and factory like. I'd imaging the compression to be between the factory 9.5:1 and 10:1.    Will these compression ratio's be safe with the older pre xflow head? I am planning on running boost control either with a 6AL2 or ICE setup.   The exhaust manifold is a little bit of a mystery to me, I'm not sure who I could get in wagga to make up one from scratch for me, but I was planning on using an Aussiespeed or similar dual outlet manifold to a J pipe and positioning the turbo near where the battery currently sits, the futura doesn't have aircon so no compressor in the way.   I had a look at the factory 1v manifold but it seems to be incompatible with the 2v head, it would of been the easiest option for a manifold had it fitted.   I'm sure I'm over thinking most of this, surely blowing a pre xflow couldnt be all  that much different to a crossy.   please feel free to correct me if i'm wrong on this.    

Not 100% sure, but check the fuse box carefully, sometimes the dash light fuse isn't the same as the tail light one.

The headlight switch might be the culprit for the dash lights. If can find a good one to try, that might narrow down the issue. If the car has a towbar, check the connections where the trailer plug wiring taps into the factory harness. If they used scotch locks, it may have severed the tail light section due to age or vibration.

I'm working on a 07 fairmont for a friend that has no tail or dash lights even though all the fuses are ok and it has no relevant dtc's. I haven't gotten a good chance to look at it and inspect the harnesses but I'm hoping someone here has some pointers as to what it could be. Right now Im suspecting a break in the harness for the tail lights but I really have no clue to whats wrong. Thanks in advance for any help you can offer, I only get at this thing half an hour at a time so any and all help is welcome!

So the variable resistor in my ZD's headlight switch has clapped out. I bought a switch from rare spares and the dash lights are very dim at best. Is there a way to bypass the resistor on my original switch? Preferably without starting a fire behind my dash...

Id go for a GT35 as they come on boost instantly on a 250 anyway.Convert to a 4 barrel set up as your about to jam it full of air. A 2 barrel is too small on a 200 engine let alone a 250. Id measure compression first before lowering it and if it's around 10.1 leave it alone or your making it a laggy by lowering compression for no reason. I know you don't want to make a million hp but your actually treating it better if you let it become more efficient. Upside you don't need to push it as hard to get the results you want.   Id fit a programable ignition too. EST dizzy and ecu or maf control. Then you can run 28 plus degrees @ idle and low RPM no boost then drop timing as boost comes on. 

275s will fit very nice. 

Thanks mate.   Thats what i was hoping. Do you think a 275 will fit?  

Holy what a blast from the past, forgot all about this forum. From memory 15x10s with a 5” backspace fitted quite nicely. 

Hi Mate.   Howd you go with the 15X10s?    we are getting a xw gt replica and want to know the biggest tyres you have been able to fit without scrubbing.   We have some 15x10 centerlines that where going on our p6. pretty sure 5"backspace.