Best camshaft brands - Aussie preferred

[gerg 10,871]

I've got a little over 1000 km on my new 302, and have a persistent tick and slight misfire from one cylinder. I found the source, pulled out the loose lifter and I found that i have a chipped lobe on #7 inlet. This chip has caused the lifter face to chew out, loosing preload and hence the clack-clack sound. The cam will obviously need replacing, so I was wondering what brands people have had a good run out of.

 

I'm pretty happy with the performance of the current grind. It's a 208/208 @ 0.050, 110 LSA from Dynotec, seems to be a copy of Crow's one of identical spec. I'm especially happy with the torque. I might skip this brand next time, as it was a cheapy ($140 delivered) but not sure of quality of materials now.

 

I might even go with a 204/213, just has to be under 0.500" lift due to standard rockers.

 

So what brand does everyone recommend?

[NZXD 2,328]

That's a bit of a let down for only 1000kms.

 

Is this a Windsor or Cleveland?

 

If it is a Windsor you could consider a hydraulic roller camshaft and lifters, you can get the retro fit kits etc and to a degree you never have to worry about lifter or camshaft wear.

[xbcool 351]

gee 1000ks is a bit of a fizzer.

 

 

 

not sure of many aussie companys maybe camtech http://www.camtechcams.com.au/contacts.html

 

 

Ive used Malcoms (camtech)stuff before never had a problem.

 

 

as NZXD said there are hydro rollers available for clevo or windsor , we used on in the xb for a while and it was sweet ,

it just wasn't the best for reving past 6000rpm

 

 

steve

[gerg 10,871]

Yeah mate it's a Clevo. Very mild build with stock bits, I'm mainly after torque and economy. Like I said, happy with the performance but shitty about the quality. If it was a wiped lobe from a poor break-in I'd understand, but I did everything right. 2000rpm for 20 min, correct lube, decent oil. I'm a mechanic after all, so I should know.

 

I'm in Sydney so I might go to camtech and have a chat. Cheers mate.

[xbcool 351]

Yeah even when you do it by the book ya can still get fucked over

But that's cars for ya

 

 

Steve

[slydog 7,873]

Did you run it in with light springs and did you use a oil like Joe Gibbs run in oil and assemble every thing with a high quality paste?How heavy are the springs you used also?What lifters are you using?

 

I have had it with flat tappet cams and my run procedure is pretty intense these days as a result.

[PRO250 1,506]

inside 1000km id go as far as saying its run in was not that good a chip on the lobe if it was there when you fitted the cam you should have seen it and saved heart ache

 

the dynotech cams as not a bad thing most dont have issues get another one and go again

[gerg 10,871]

I would have seen the chip for sure when putting it in. It's about 3mm long, on the back of the lobe on the high side of the taper.

 

Ran it in on 15W40 diesel oil (high detergent), like i said, 20 min at 2000rpm (in 2 stages to prevent overheating). I don't reckon it was a bad run-in as the lobe tip looks perfect and the entire surface of the lobe and base circle are uniform in colour.

 

Lifters were whatever came with the "reco" engine. They seem ok.

 

It's an otherwise stock engine, with nothing special as far as valvesprings go, or anything else for that matter. The engine is a torquey cruiser. As I said the chip is on the back of the lobe, so short of hammering from valve bounce (unlikely), I'm stuffed if I know. Pain in the arse as it's my daily driver.

 

I can get a Crow from the same mob (Precision) for $208, only 89 bucks more than a Dynotec ($121). Lifters are $17/box of 4. Should just bite the bullet i guess.

[xeeclipse 37]

Ive never had issues with crow cams. Had a few engines run like dogs on break in and cams have always held up well.

 

Diesel oils are usually full synthetic these days, I wonder whats the zinc content like?? 

 

I run half a tube of molybdenum paste with some 15/40 GTX3 in all my engines on initial break in.

[slydog 7,873]

Another REALLY bad thing people do is use shitty oil for run in break in on the very most important time a engine needs the most protection is run in break in.I use Joe Gibbs stuff which is around $50 for 5ltrs but has everything needed at the initial start/run in  stage.I even pre/heated the oil before hand last time and the results were perfect lifters and camshaft...but dead pistons anyway

 

Poxy cast shit are useless on long stroke high rpm engines.

[PRO250 1,506]

poxy cast pistons to

[slydog 7,873]

Correct POXY SHITBOX WORTHLESS STEAMING PILES OF WATERY SHIT CAST PISTONS!

[xeeclipse 37]

x Flows have shit harmonics SLYDOG, I respect your determination to push the envelope but there are cheaper alternatives like a mild v8? 

[slydog 7,873]

My build has never been about trying to build it for $2000 as I never really had a money/budget target for it.My exploits have shown others what doe's and doesn't work in big rpm x-flows aswell so i'm teaching the masses,all 7 of em what not to do as a community service too...lol  

 

Why do you think I havn't done a V8 before? I had a silver grey XD ESP 475hp 4V clevo that ran 11.8 16-17 years ago.I just like the challenge of a NAT ASP 6cyl and spanking that many v8's down Winton last year made my time and effort worth while.I don't want to stand out I just don't want to do v8 or even easier turbo 6 because society says I have to when I know I can make this work and work very well.Just because others can't make em go doesn't mean there right.The smart ones can and there just a engine after all,nothing hard just have to think a little differently and I fit that bill.

 

I never told anyone to like or follow me and my build or ever asked for peoples thoughts but they offer it all the time.I seek advice and even just chat with like minded people who have done the same as me before hand and we find we are much alike in many ways so been different to the masses is not a issue for me at all as I have made some real friends from this journey.

 

Thanks for your concern though...    

[Tweaker351 148]

Dynotec are pretty much procomp rubbish. At racing world sells dynotec so pretty much says it all.

Saying that i actually have a dynotec cam in my xd which is great, didnt know At racing world sold them when i ordered it through an engine builder lol

[gerg 10,871]

My guess is that AT Racing sells them because they're cheap. They're available from Precision International and I'll bet AT gets them from there too. As for their quality, well I did research on Dynotech before buying one and people seemed happy with them overall, but I get the impression you'd skip them in a high performance build. Goes without saying really. I might have just got a dud.

 

I certainly did everything I should have done to bed it in. Just think how Joe public might have treated their brand new Falcon in the 80's. I'll bet nowhere near as carefully as we treat our own built engines, yet he'd be pissed if his factory Ford Donk didn't get to 300,000 k's without surgery.

 

Regardless, I'll be chucking in some zinc or moly lube to bed in my next cam. Cheap insurance and looking on the bright side, I can do that without worrying about hurting the rest of the internals now that my engine's loosened up a little and rings bedded in. I'd not feel comfortable adding slippery shit to my engine before it's had a chance to bed properly. BTW Synthetic oil is a no-no (I hate the shit in engines anyway).

[slydog 7,873]

Who told you to use synthetic stuff ? I would not recommend it for sure but I would recommend using Joe Gibbs paste and Joe Gibbs run in oil.You pay $50 for it and it has everything (yes even zinc) needed to protect the engine on start up and not hinder run in.Using shit oil in the most important part of engine run in is far from ideal if you think about it which is why I cringe every time I read about people doing it.Thats when it needs the MOST protection on the bearings rings and lifters/camshaft.The lifters WILL bed to the cam if you run it for no less than 20 mins @ 2000 rpm on SOFT springs.Skipping any part of it you are really taking a chance with modern camshafts and oils. 

 

Yes the moly lube been added to a oil works to a degree but at no benefit as the molly paste actually stops at the filter in most cases as it's not hot enough to fully break down in the first few minutes of start up.Yes thats why I pre-heat the Joe Gibbs oil before hand.It's a screw around to start with but it saves me money and time fixing cam failures by doing my long drawn out run in procedure.To me it just has to be done as oil's and modern metals are not what they use to be.  

 

Just from what I have found with my x-flow lately,not that I need to worry about this with the roller cam either.  

[gerg 10,871]

Just saying, for the uninformed, that any amount of synthetic while running in is a very bad idea. It even says so on some oil containers. I personally think it's a bad idea at any time, but particularly in new engines or old, carboned-up ones.

[Tweaker351 148]

Good old penrite run in oil 10-40w for me. Havnt had an issue yet, I also use the joe gibbs lube when I build my engines.

I Change oil after cam run in and then also about 100 - 200 kays of driving. Then about 500 kays of driving lol

After that I usually change about 5000 max, only because my babies don't do a whole lot of kays so that is about the yearly quota

Maybe overkill but ive never had a problem with any of my motors yet...... Fingers crossed

[Tyler06 266]

I also use penrite run in oil and joe gibbs paste but i also add in some crane run in additive. Soft springs at 2000rpm minimum. Helps to have good thermo setup and an industrial fan in front to stop her overheating on run in.

[xeeclipse 37]

Love how dick heads run thermos...."Hey bro but i'm leberating an extra 5 hp" not a smart thing to do at the expense of your engine don't you think?

 

For those pushing above 5,500rpm on a regualr basis please ignore this.

[gerg 10,871]

I hate engine-driven fans. They work the hardest when you don't need them (on the highway) and the least when you need them the most (at idle).

 

They clutter up your engine bay, and are a bitch when you need to do work on something, like changing belts on the side of the road. They put lots of strain on your belts (ever revved a cold engine and done a sick fan belt burnout?) and as you stated, take horsepower (and fuel) to run exactly when they're not needed.

 

so I guess I'm one of those dickheads then?

[Tyler06 266]

Love how dick heads run thermos...."Hey bro but i'm leberating an extra 5 hp" not a smart thing to do at the expense of your engine don't you think?

 

For those pushing above 5,500rpm on a regualr basis please ignore this.

 

Rightio so instead we should all run belt driven fans? Maybe a clutch fan? I much prefer knowing that my thermo runs as i want it when i want it! I didnt do it for the extra 5hp i did it for common sense but hey i also dont have a waterpump to bolt it to so maybe a bit of necessity not to mention my massive radiator that leaves me short of room. Jeez wat a dickhead i am :-/

[xeeclipse 37]

Rightio so instead we should all run belt driven fans? Maybe a clutch fan? I much prefer knowing that my thermo runs as i want it when i want it! I didnt do it for the extra 5hp i did it for common sense but hey i also dont have a waterpump to bolt it to so maybe a bit of necessity not to mention my massive radiator that leaves me short of room. Jeez wat a dickhead i am :

 

 

Ahahaha..... an electric water pump and thermos on a cortina that has <150 rwkw......

[slydog 7,873]

Well there's really no issue with them if set up correctly.With the added fact that almost all modern cars run thermo fans with no belt driven fan sort of makes the point loud and clear.Hard to argue with that really unless the big car manufacturers are all wrong of course?