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BTR Auto Transmission Videos

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Just now, CHESTNUTXE said:

ok and performance wise compard to the eb2 tranny ?

 

The EB transmissions are more serviceable than the later ones.

 

The EA/EB/ED/EF ones have the better oil pump (higher flow rate).

External dipstick.

Easy external band adjustment, (internal shim adjustment only, on the later ones).

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G'day all, i thought this would be the best place to ask this question. I've looked online at why this would happen but just found a "could be this, could be that" answer.

Got a 97 EL wagon, drives ok (very thirsty though), just over 200k on the clock, but lately I've noticed that the box doesn't provide engine braking in any gear, like it's got a freewheel function. It's only been doing it for a month or two, and is only noticeable in the lower gears while trying to hold speed downill. Lockup engages as per normal, at the normal speeds.

It goes through all the gears perfectly while upshifting, selects all gears manually as normal but as soon as you back off the throttle, the rpm drops as if a clutch is not engaging. I do know auto principles but without specific knowledge of this particuar model ie: if it's a mechanical issue or a simple solenoid failure, it's hard to know where to go from here. A box overhaul or swap is not viable as the car is not worth enough. If it's a simple fix like a gear position sensor or a solenoid, that would make life much easier.

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

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I have a few which do that.

I've been told, it's a sticking one way clutch (ie, a mechanical issue).

OR a worn out C4 clutch pack.

 

I've never had one apart, to actually see though.

 

My BF wagon was doing it too, but only sometimes.

 

 

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I have a few which do that.
I've been told, it's a sticking one way clutch (ie, a mechanical issue).
OR a worn out C4 clutch pack.
 
I've never had one apart, to actually see though.
 
My BF wagon was doing it too, but only sometimes.
 
 
Ok thanks Dave, looks like I'll be leaving this one alone. No auto rebuilds here. Here, no auto rebuilds

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On 11/9/2019 at 2:43 PM, gerg said:

Certainly chews through fuel quicker... Sitting just below 20L/100 around town. Just as bad as my XE wagon.

Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
 

 

The transmission shouldn't cause that.

 

I'd go looking at input sensors first - O2, ECT, IAT, MAP, etc.

Start with (a new) O2, then see if it gets up to proper operating temp.

ECT - put the odometer into diagnostic mode, and pull up the digital Engine Coolant Temp readout.

 

MAP you need an oscilloscope to measure properly.

IAT, can be done with a resistance measurement, relative to ambient temperature.

 

Could also be sticky fuel injectors.

May be worth getting them flowed/ultrasonically cleaned?

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Thanks Dave, I might try O2 first, ECT is the same sender for dash gauge?

Swapped MAP for a new unit that someone gave me ages ago, no change.

Already done TPS a while back, also no change.

IAT is that painful one under the manifold, right? Would disconnecting it be a valid test?

Car drives perfectly fine other than a stumble now and then at the lights.

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The transmission shouldn't cause that.
 


I don't know enough about E series to know if they work this way, but most injected vehicles turn the injectors off when coasting/decelerating, increasing economy and engine braking.
If the auto isn't engine braking, and instead idling, that would be using fuel that's normally being saved.

So might contribute?

I wouldn't think it would cause 20L/100, that's worse than my carby 80 series

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4 hours ago, gerg said:

ECT is the same sender for dash gauge?

IAT is that painful one under the manifold, right? Would disconnecting it be a valid test?

Car drives perfectly fine other than a stumble now and then at the lights.
 

 

Yes, the ECT sensor is for ECU and dash cluster combined.

Whatever the dash shows, is what the ECU see's.

 

IAT, yes probably.


Stumble, sounds very much like O2 or sticky Injectors.

 

A new (oem NTK from Bursons) O2 sensor in my EF wagon, got me an improvement from 18-19L/100, down to 14-15 around town.

For $60, it's probably the first thing I would try,

along with checking the operating coolant temp - should hover around 90-95 degreesC

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