xwroo 348 Posted December 18, 2015 Yea I'm pretty stuck on it being a very mild street cruiser. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matt_lamb_160 252 Posted December 27, 2015 I'd go with comp as well but and extreme energy XE256H. If you aren't touching the heads an alloy manifold is pointless other than weight saving and a cast 4brl manifold will be pretty much as good. If getting a manifold, the dual plane Weiand manifolds are meant to be the go. 465-600 Holley. 480cfm Autolite 4100? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xwroo 348 Posted December 27, 2015 The heads won't be overlooked. They will be rebuilt and ported and polished or whatever gets done to them. 1 Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matt_lamb_160 252 Posted December 27, 2015 The exhaust ports need a fair bit of work, take the bump out, square up the roof and just take the shitty lip off the outside edge of the floor (but don't lower the floor overall). 1.85" intake and 1.6" exhaust valves will help low lift flow as well. Heaps of pics on Mustang forums. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xwroo 348 Posted December 27, 2015 I'll have to look into it when I get to them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stu5766 394 Posted December 28, 2015 For what you will spend on getting Windsor heads ( or any cast iron head for that matter ) getting done up & ported, throw them in the bin & get a set of AFD's. I ported my cast 2V clevo heads myself & spent 25 odd hours on them. For an engine shop to reco heads, you will run around 700 bucks then you have around 30 hours of port work at a minimum 100 bucks an hour. End result is a huge bill & you still have a shit set of cast iron weezer heads. 1 Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted December 28, 2015 Getting hold of some GT40 heads might be a better start, but Stu is right. You'll be shocked at the amount of work needed to bring them up to scratch, when AFDs are better out of the box than any ported iron head could hope to be. There's simply not enough meat in iron heads to open them up enough. Trick Flow also do nice stuff at good prices. Another approach (a bit out there I know) is to bolt on a set of clevo 2Vs and get the appropriate manifold to suit. A bit of a clean-up around the bowl and 3-angle seat will give a 15% increase in flow. If you don't care too much about horsepower, your stock windsor heads will likely hit a wall at about 300 hp. 1 Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xwroo 348 Posted December 28, 2015 When buying heads like afd. What info do you need to choice the right heads,cam specs etc? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted December 28, 2015 Ok let's put things into perspective. When new, the 302W 2-barrel put out 210 (gross) hp, the 4-barrel 230. Fast forward to EB Falcon, the injected 302 made 220 hp, although this was now a net figure (realistic). So this is the ballpark you're starting from. You could add 15-20% more power without major surgery or special parts just with the good old ingredients... Cam, carby, compression and exhaust. Past that, you need to spend time and money, in exponential amounts. So how much hp are you aiming for, and how much money do you want to spend? 1 ando76 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xwroo 348 Posted December 28, 2015 All I want is to rebuild my 302w so it's nice and fresh and reliable so I can turn the key with no dramas but have a little bit more poke then standard. I was just looking at adding carb, intake, cam and lifters, a electric drizzy (to get rid of the points) and some extractors. 1 Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matt_lamb_160 252 Posted December 28, 2015 This is a basic build and the cast heads will work fine. There is tones of meat considering the cams we are talking about. The stock intake ports will barely need touching (if at all) and the exhaust ports are short and easy enough to "hog out". The only real expense is getting the throats opened up, new valves and getting the seats done (if you bother going for bigger valves). Not cheap I guess, but AFD heads are more. Counting your labour is BS in my opinion, this is a hobby right?? Plus alloy heads look like arse, painted or not on these old girls. I wouldn't get rid of the points, just connect them to a street fire MSD. GT40P heads won't work with 99% of exhaust manifolds because of the plug angle, which is a bummer Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stu5766 394 Posted December 28, 2015 The plug angle is the reason I didn't mention GT40p heads in the beginning. It is likely that a set of custom extractors would need to be made to fit those heads. If the OP is keen to get hands on & do port work themselves, the cast heads might be half a chance, but if your paying for port work to be done, the $$$$ soon start to add up. If you want something that is cost effective, reliable & sounds cranky, get a late model EFI Windsor. Fit a performer manifold, 600 vac secondary holly & electronic dizzy. The roller can fitted to those things sound tough as once the injection is taken off them. If you get an AU 5.0 with the GT40p heads, it might be worth getting the AU exhaust manifold to fit or extractors custom made. 1 matt_lamb_160 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matt_lamb_160 252 Posted December 28, 2015 The AU engine idea is a good one and is what I would tend to do if it wasn't for the plug angle or wanting to keep an original engine. 351w roller engines are also tempting. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stu5766 394 Posted December 29, 2015 The AU engine idea is a good one and is what I would tend to do if it wasn't for the plug angle or wanting to keep an original engine. 351w roller engines are also tempting.mEven using an E series roller block. They had the E7 heads. Not as good as GT40's or alloys, but still better than early weezer heads. Setup for unleaded & the right plug angle. 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NZXD 2,328 Posted December 29, 2015 I've had gt40p heads in my XD with the hurricane headers 4 into 1, they fitted with no real issue. 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matt_lamb_160 252 Posted December 30, 2015 That is cool. Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stu5766 394 Posted December 30, 2015 I've had gt40p heads in my XD with the hurricane headers 4 into 1, they fitted with no real issue. I thought XD's had more space between the shock towers than XR-XY?? I had 4 into 1's with GT40ps on a 351 Windsor in my XD at one point. I think the engine bay is slightly wider. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted December 30, 2015 Yeah you're right Stu, I guess the only one with the answer to that is someone who's fitted a set to a windsor in a Pre-XA body. Best case scenario if using them is to get a low-km set that only need a skim, 3-angle and new stem seals. That would be a cheap upgrade but my brother had an ED V8 and looked for a set back then and people wanted stupid coin for them. Haven't priced them recently. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NZXD 2,328 Posted December 30, 2015 I've had gt40p heads in my XD with the hurricane headers 4 into 1, they fitted with no real issue. I thought XD's had more space between the shock towers than XR-XY?? I had 4 into 1's with GT40ps on a 351 Windsor in my XD at one point. I think the engine bay is slightly wider. Yeah you are right. The gt40p's would have been restrictive on a 351 but still better than any cast iron head from that period. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites