really bad takeoff in 1st gear.

[gerg 10,871]

Nice shiny bits... Great workmanship there. I can't see any dramas with those chambers, but if there was, I'd look at the little sharp ridge around the spark plug hole.

 

I still reckon it's a timing issue. If it were an issue with hot spots in the chamber, it wouldn't matter what the timing was. Pre-ignition is what it is... When you have a hot spot, your engine is suddenly a diesel.

[slydog 7,873]

That edge wouldn't cause a pre ignition issue imo Gerg...This is what mine looked like last time before further mods and it never rattled even with 12.3 comp on 98. It still has edge and not even buffed or smoothed in any way but never rattled or ran on.But mine has been laid back a fair bit.

 

 

 

[Mustardxf 29]

Oh and other thing to add, this does run on every now and again 

[slydog 7,873]

LOL and there's the death nail...wrong from me.

[Mustardxf 29]

soooo?

[LJDB 103]

I had troubles with pinging and running on before i went tfi and streetfire msd. I also went 1 colder on the spark plugs. If your not short on coin i would go a programmable msd.  

[Mustardxf 29]

Already have a street fire, going to source a TFI for it now. I think ill try going a colder spark plug running 5s now 

[slydog 7,873]

Just go to the TFI street fire and as said colder plugs cos if it's a NGK and a 5 thats as hot as they go. Try a set of bpr7s for a start.Only cost ya $30 I'd say or pop around home and I got about 50 old plugs here LOL

[Mustardxf 29]

Yep NGK 5s I had a feeling the plug was to hot, I'll will get a set of bprs7s this week and find a TFI.

[slydog 7,873]

There is a race plug that has a shorter protrusion into the chamber and is less shouded but there like $55 a set.

[Mustardxf 29]

Oh bit pricey, Ill try the bprs7s and see how they go 

[gerg 10,871]

Yeah worth a try if your motor is nice and tight and doesn't burn oil. Mine fouled a set of BP6FSs after 30,000 ks as my valve seals are cactii so I threw a set of 4s at it that i found at work and pulled one out after 10,000 and it couldn't be more perfect. Has never had issues with running on despite being an iron head clevo and I run "shitty" E10. Although like I said I'm running stock comp so different kettle of fish.

 

Gotta ask though, is there a reason why you need to run a resistor plug? Are you running carbon leads or shielded?

[slydog 7,873]

Just easier to get in most cases...

[Outback Jack 6,352]

K.I.S.S.

Keep It Simple Stupid.

 

Its still the timing mate, has been from the start.

Est dizzy works too and will go fine, tfi be nice if you could find one.

If ya over running with a head that looks that nice its timing.

 

Listen to gerg he's on the money. ALWAYS go from the simple basic things and work ya way up. Will save you a lot of money.

 

Jack.

[Mustardxf 29]

Yeah Jack, Ive already got all the expensive bolt ons, like ignition setup, definitely haven't cheaped out on this motor.

 

Now its all about setting it up and tuning it. 

My timing was set by a guy that knows abit, but he never mentioned anything about the base timing or thats its advancing to far.

Ill be getting colder plugs and sourcing a TFI for it.

[Outback Jack 6,352]

Cool mate. As long as he understands the MSD is a device for RETARDING not advancing.

 

Set the base timing on motor at 30 degrees advanced.

The msd curve is then actually more retard (20 degree retard) at 10 degree start and lessens it off on a curve up to your original engine setting of 30 degrees. Step up in 500rpm increments.

Check out Ashxf 's xf crossy ute, that just recieved a msd 6al2 programmable jobby and running an EST dizzy.

I installed and tuned that with ash's help, running 600 holley.

You can also buy a solid centre wheel for EST dizzy now which replaces the tin flimsy wheel inside for more high rpm reliability.

 

Hope that helps, if ya give that info to ya tuner, he should know what ya talking about.

 

Jack.

[Mustardxf 29]

ahhhhh, the timing was set with out the mad installed. so should the timing be re done now with the mad installed? I asked the bloke and said nah it will be fine.

 

Has Ash got a build thread?

[Outback Jack 6,352]

Should be able to set base timing to 30 degrees but will have to use a digital timing light to see it go out that far.

I couldnt even get ash's crossflow started without a map loaded.

But that was with est dizzy.

Are you running a vac dizzy with points or was it xf with fuel inj and ecu originally?

 

If it had ecu , you have to run the stock ecu with a link across test wires under bonnet to set base timing at 30 degrees properly at first.

Then disconnect all that shit and hook up msd with map loaded up properly and will run.

If was carby xf, disconnect vaccuum hose to dizzy and set timing to 30 degrees then take dizzy out and replace with est or tfi 3 wire dizzy.

The msd needs a signal from the dizzy to work properly.

 

Also check msd is set to 6 cylinder, rev limit it to 6000 for now and make sure input is set to Halls Effect.

You may need to search ashs thread, im on phone sorry snd im old and dumb. Hahaha

 

Jack.

[Thom 6,651]

That looks like it comes on hard, what are you doing for engine mounts?

[Mustardxf 29]

Just got standard rubber mounts ATM, second persons thats questioned the engine mounts.

[LJDB 103]

If your using a street fire msd with tfi the timing will be locked at the dizzy.

[wagoon 2,429]

Yeah agree factory mounts arent much chop on a decent engine. Check out my solid roller cam build thread for an idea on fairly simple engine mounts using urethane bushes that replace only the standard engine mount. I wouldnt recommend making your own mounts unless you are a decent welder.

If you like the mounts in my thread they are available through Tony's Metal and Speed on facebook or Ando76 on here, cheaper than always replacing stock mounts.

[Mustardxf 29]

Yeah I was looking at them ryno mounts by Ando76, will shoot him a message.

[gerg 10,871]

Should be able to set base timing to 30 degrees but will have to use a digital timing light to see it go out that far.

I couldnt even get ash's crossflow started without a map loaded.

But that was with est dizzy.

Are you running a vac dizzy with points or was it xf with fuel inj and ecu originally?

Then disconnect all that shit and hook up msd with map loaded up properly and will run.

 

Also check msd is set to 6 cylinder, rev limit it to 6000 for now and make sure input is set to Halls Effect.

 

Jack.

 

Jack I'm sure he said he's running a Streetfire not 6AL-programmable, which means whatever curve he has is purely done by the dizzy not the box. The only "programmable" function those Streetfires will do is rpm limit. The dizzy needs removing and put on a graph machine and the weights need to be modified to limit max advance, probably needs stiffer springs to come in later too.

[Mustardxf 29]

Started it up just then to move it for a wash, its idles fine even cold start it idles straight away with no choke or throttle, when letting the clutch out it will move with no throttle but as soon as throttle comes in it starts to chug and almost dies, theres no back firing or out of the ordinary noises. Would this be a timing issue or is it just that the carb hasn't been set up for the motor and the diff gears are to high for it?