Olive Xm 34 Posted June 11, 2015 Hi Guys, anyone with ideas about how to improve oil control and windage in my setup? After a small issue in the last build i want to improve this one as it will rev a bit higher. Its an ASR pan made to suit The girdle I have and holds 7.5 lts. 1 Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,271 Posted June 11, 2015 Ooooo ...... that's a nice pan.! Reckon ya got it covered with that windage tray. Gunna be going 'round corners real fast ?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted June 11, 2015 Do they make crank scrapers for clevos? I know windsors are no problem to get Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,271 Posted June 11, 2015 1 XTREME KARTS XF reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Olive Xm 34 Posted June 11, 2015 The problem I have is getting near the crank with the girdle. I saw in another thread somebody made a crank scraper and screwed it to their girdle, but that was a crossflow I think. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted June 11, 2015 Canton do a bolt on windage tray that is an awesome design. Google it. I bought one for my clevo because I could. I'm used to working on crossflows where everything has to be custom made so it was a relief to buy something straight off the shelf. I like the Canton design as it uses 'diamond mesh' which is an awesome product for oil control. Far superior to louvered slots. I would be looking at your oil return to the sump as we have already discussed when you asked in my clevo thread. I always try and make it so that the crank can not see the pick up. Once you get that sorted you should never have oil issues. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Olive Xm 34 Posted June 11, 2015 Yeah looked at that but I don't think it will work with my girdle. I was thinking about getting some mesh and attaching it directly across the bottom of the girdle, then with a downward bow in the centre to clear the rods and crank. The oil returns now line up better and the head gasket holes have been enlarged. I have Counter sunk the holes in the valley with some deburring. I am thinking about installing some drains in the rocker covers to drain back to the sump, once I get it back together to see how it will work. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted June 11, 2015 I think with that sump and the girdle you will pretty much have it nailed. With the canton one you don't need so much work in the bowl area of the sump as it is all done by girdle. your sump has some good work in the bowl area so I think it will be fine. Fitting some crank scapers to the sides of the sump may help but in all honesty the edge of that thick girdle will probably do the same job. You still need a bit of oil to fling up to help cool the pistons - especially at that piston speed. If you don't mind sharing could you measure how far down that back piece goes - sump rail to sump floor. I do a similar thing to me x-flow sumps as there is heaps of room there and I was looking to do the same thing on my Clevo sump. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Olive Xm 34 Posted June 11, 2015 Rail to floor 213mm and rail to tray 110mm Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted June 12, 2015 Cheers man - it will help me heaps when I start building one for Conan. Did you get into the oil return holes in your head? I hooked into main to make a better 'funnel'. I drill and tap the backs of the x-flow heads (not the rocker cover) for oil return. Really helpful if the car spends a lot of time under hard acceleration (drag racing, speedway and even circuit). I have not had a good look at doing this to the clevo heads but every little bit helps in getting that oil back down to the pan, where it belongs. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Olive Xm 34 Posted June 12, 2015 Yeah they used to be very square in the entry, so I smoothed them out and extended them. I will have a look this weekend on how to do the external drains. I don't think that I have the height to drill and tap the head. What size hose ID do you use? I was thinking 1/2" as a min. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted June 12, 2015 Yep - I used 3/4 line Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trev Vaa 1,185 Posted June 15, 2015 windage tray and trap doors are on my ASR (chaises old one he never used) 3 XTREME KARTS XF, Outback Jack and bear351c reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Olive Xm 34 Posted June 17, 2015 Yeah that one has a bit more control around the pickup, nice pan. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
broken-wheel 659 Posted June 18, 2015 keep in mind that no mater how good the pan is if you can't get the oil to it fast enough it will go bang at high rpm, the problem is not the pan or the oil returns, the problem is the lifters but people are easily scammed into buying parts that are band aid over band aid rather than fix the problem at the source and the source of the problem is not the oil pan for normal driving http://wydendorfmachine.com/kitb.html?kitid=2 <---best oiling mod you can make for a solid cam motor. That and the Moroso pan as shown above will cost less than the ASR pan and fancy crank scrapers. With a stock oil pump is all you will ever need oil wise. But you can follow the crowd and spend money on an ASR pan, fancy crank scraper, external oil line, ported and polished oil orifices, girdles etc. it keeps the economy moving along especially when it throws a rod again and again every time you keep it pegged at 8000 RPM for more than 10 seconds Do it once and do it right! I say, i'm too poor to buy cheap fixes Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Olive Xm 34 Posted June 18, 2015 8k I wont be seeing close to that im running a stock pump that has a high pressure spring. Also has an oil restrictor installed in the driver side lifter gallery. I looked at that kit and it looks good but I didnt want to pull the engine down that far on this build. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
broken-wheel 659 Posted June 18, 2015 yeah I understand, that's normally done at the machining stage, also keep in mind that the stock cleveland crank is part of the oil metering system, aftermarket cranks have different size orifices to stock and a different bleed rate, another option is to get 0.040 restricted pushrods Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trev Vaa 1,185 Posted June 18, 2015 agree on oil restrictor kit, that fixes the long term high rpm issue. the sump fixes the 0 oil pressure under cornering/heavy acceleration issue. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites