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Crossflow Build Advice

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Cheers, I'll keep all that in mind.

 

I've found a few calculators via google the thing I'm a little hazy on is just exactly how to come up with a good combination of part sizes and machine work to reach the desired ratio.

 

The distributor that came with that block is a stock XF TFI distributor. Should work straight up with your MSD unit. Was all in good working order before i stripped the car.

 

Sweet! Looks like I have a couple of choices there then.

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keep in mind the unmarked head has the biggest chamber and the latest EFI head has the smallest, inverse that and you get the piston dish, new pistons bigger dish, older pistons smaller dish

 

you can always grind away metal but can't put it back, well not in the combustion chamber

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yeah just google search compression ratio calculator and input the figures. 

 

Where you want your engine to make power will be the determining factor on what compression ratio you go for.  I say that because your camshaft choice (where the engine makes power) will determine what compression ratio you want/need.

 

no point having 11:1 compression with a pebble flicking cam.  Camtech are pretty good in that they suggest compression ratio and gearing with most of their grinds.  Have a look and then work back from there to work out how you are going to achieve you desired compression ratio.

 

I am a big fan of reducing the deck height to 0 or .010 on all my motors.  Its just something I was taught and have found to work very well.  There are technical reasons why it works - but I wont bore you with them.

 

with zero deck or near zero deck and stock dish pistons it is pretty easy to get the comp happening - especially with a C2 head so you need to be careful and measure, measure, measure.

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I'll bookmark that calculator then...

 

"Min 9.5:1 comp ratio, 3.25 + diff ratio"

 

For that cam that I put down. 10:1 was the number Stumps gave me when he suggested the build. If anyone reckons I should aim higher I can... I plan to run it on 98 all the time anyway.

 

That particular cam is hydraulic... Would it be worth going solid?

 

I'll take that on board about the deck height Ando, thanks.

 

 

Now... I need to figure out a way to buy syringes from the chemist without looking like a junkie.

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Hey DM,

Tell the chemist ya just want the syringe part and what ya using it for, tell him ya don't need the needles.

If you were a junkie you would want the needle. lol

 

Looks like ya on the right track now and getting some good advice.

 

Jack.

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Tell the chemist ya just want the syringe part and what ya using it for, tell him ya don't need the needles.

If you were a junkie you would want the needle. lol

 

Jack.

Can I just start scratching myself everywhere and looking around for unicorns while I explain it? :lol:

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Can also look for a home brew shop for a syringe. Camping and fishing stores sometimes have home brew stock. If you know anyone with kids they should a have spare on from the kids medicine stuff.

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Syringes are easy to get... And very cheap. Not the most accurate way of measuring though.

 

Don't go solid unless it's an all-out race engine. Hydraulic is a set-and-forget item that will still see 6000+ rpm no probs.

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Ok time to do some stuff... I'm going away for work till Sunday as of tonight so I want to order some stuff before I leave...

 

Just so there's no mistakes with this. Going by this video...

 

20150515_133318_zps1uwjthkw.jpg

 

First, I need to clean everything up so there's no crap in there. Chuck the rocker cover on and turn the thing upside down. Leave the valves and sparkplugs in, make sure the valves are sealed with a bit of vaseline, cover the chamber and start filling with the syringe. Thinking I'll just use kero since it'll be easier to see, or whatever I have laying around?

 

The guy in the vid it with all of the chambers, so I guess I do it to all of them as well.

 

Also if anyone has part numbers for a good timing set, ARP rod bolts or an oil pump they'd recommend that would be helpful too since I'll order all that today.

 

Also, I have the E2 head in case anyone was wondering.

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Measured one... Roughly 26ml of kero to fill it. Might have taken a tiny bit more but was a pain in the arse keeping the CD case sealed on top and using the syringe (kero seized it up after a few tries).

 

Gonna be a prick to do them all so I might just do one more to confirm.

 

So that's 26cc (1ml = 1cc right?). Wouldn't that change based on head gasket thickness as well?

 

How does that weigh in on piston selection?

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Um I think that head must have had some serious material taken off it to be 26cc.  they are 56 odd standard for the open chamber and I have never seen one go below 41cc. Think its time to redo it bud.  something has gone wrong there.

 

I use a mix of atf with a dash of petrol when I cc.  a smear of grease around the outside of the chamber and then stick your Perspex down. 

 

I use rollmaster 'red' timing chains.  quick ebay search will hook you up.  there are two types - blue economy (non adjustable) and red multi key so you can dial your cam in.  get the red set.

 

Rod bolts are same as 302W. 

 

As for oil pump - I have to recommend one of my own custom oil pumps.  Shameless plug. 

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Yeah I smeared vaso around it.

 

Fucking kero absolutely destroyed my syringe though... all the numbers came off.

 

There was no way I was fitting more than 27ml of fluid in there. I checked again with the shitty syringe and came up with around the same number (had to guesstimate where 5Ml was, could only see 1-3). Will check again using a measuring cup instead.

 

That head has been rebuilt before apparently. The springs are aftermarket too. Measured with spark plugs and valves in too (they haven't come out yet).

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Fucks sake... Why does everything have to be so difficult?

 

Can't get the stupid perspex to sit flat and not let anything out. Running out of time too.

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Patience dude. Does it really matter if it takes another week to order the parts. If you get it wrong you will have to order new parts anyway.

My cylinder head is 42cc and I had to use 29cc ( the biggest dish available) to get comp to 10.3-10.5

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Used a DVD cover, greased the outside of the chamber, and valve saver instead of kero.

 

Worked better but I spilled some so it fucked with the result. Got time for one more crack. Looked like it took over 50ml though...

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Ok no fuckups this time, spilled a little but not more than 2ml.

 

I definately stuffed up before... guess I couldn't see the kero properly. This time I used valve saver. It took one full cup of 40Ml, a refill of 10ml, and another refill of 10ml. That seems about inline with the last 2 attempts.

 

I spilled a tiny bit during one of the hits with the syringe and lost a few drops here and there... So I make that out to be about 58cc give or take a mL.

 

Isn't that what e2 heads were stock? Unleaded EFI were lower comp than all the others right?

 

So if that's the case, what pistons, and how much does the head need to be machined to make 10:1?

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going off what Ando put up I would say they are standard thickness. Can't help with the rest sorry dude. Job well done though

Only took about 5 attempts :D

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Sounds like you have it sorted.  E2's have a good chamber and good valve sizing and with a good haircut they end up at 49cc.  I would use one of them over an open chamber head - all day everyday.

 

My burnout ute runs an e2 had that we did many many years ago and I love it.  Great chamber shape.  Not as good as a laid back C2 or C1 but damn close.

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