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XG alternator hits XF support rail.

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Hey guys, I'm hoping this is my final problem I need to post up about this damn conversion!

I put the XG base mounts in the ute, and got the gearbox bolted in, only to find that the 4L alternator now fouls up on the front support rail.

I can only see 2 solutions, 1st idea I'm not keen on and the 2nd I'm not so sure of...

I was thinking about notching the rail to clear the alternator, but I don't want to cop any hassles with getting it mod plated with it like that.

The 2nd was lowering the T5 crossmember 5mm with washers between the floor and the crossmember, apparantly this will give me around 10mm at the front.

Would either idea be ok, im just trying to keep it all as factory looking as possible to help pass inspection.

Appreciate any help as always.

Thanks guys.

Jay.

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use the xf base mounts from my poor memory their a little higher

Nope, they not.

 

Years ago before i started doing the 4 litre swap into my XD i was on another forum and the people there

posted some info about this prob. I been wondering "would this glitch surface actually" and the only solution

was to cut a recess in the front support panel. 

Now ill go look for that info and ill come back here. 

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Arent XF and XG front chassis rails the same? If so it's all in the mounts. Did you use XG bases and the XG mount arms that connect to the motor? or just the bases?

Pity ya not in WA, I got a spare XG ute out back with easily visible mounts. I will try get some pics but my legs in a cast, so may have to wait till me crutches arrive.

 

Jack.

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Ok, found the info.

I really relied alot on this way back then and as i did mine i found some probs listed i just never come across

only because i used the EF engine. 

The XG had a diffrent front rail, from XD/XE/XF hence your alternator sitting on it.

So check this thread out, it should help you out.

 

http://www.xfalcon.com/forums/index.php?/topic/887-how-to-fit-a-40l-to-xd-xf/

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I read the topic Mr McQueen, there are people who used an eb/xg motor mount ( the mount from motor to rubber, not just the base plate) that didn't have to notch the chassis, is this correct? I'm Confuzzled...... lol.

 

Cheers. Jack.

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Thanks Steve, great info as always mate!

I actually referred back to your thread lastnight and noticed your engine uses a different belt/pulley setup to mine, that allows the alternator to sit more vertically than the EA-ED and XG motors do.

I checked out the link you put up, but the way they cut that rail was a bit too full on for my liking.

Want to try keep it as neat and factory looking as possible...

Maybe I can heat up the steel with my little pen torch where it hits the rail and try shape that section enough to clear it.

It's got to be the neatest solution next to swapping the belt setup completely to the later one (if that's even possible).

Another solution might be to find a slightly shorter belt so I can get tension on the belt before it gets close to the rail.

It's fustrating because I'm getting fairly close to firing it up now that I understand the wiring better and the motor and T5 box are all bolted up properly...

 

HBWC, I had XF mounts in previously, they are a major no go with the drop down manifolds, and actually sit lower than the XG mounts.

Passenger side mount sits much higher to lean the manifold away from the tower, and drivers side is also a mm or 2 higher than the XF mounts.

 

Outback Jack, I'm already using complete XG mounts, top and bottom, and this is the issue I now face.

Mounts are not going to change anything at this point, the engine is in the best possible position, other than the alternator problem, it sits exactly as it should.

The difference between my XF and a XG is just the XG front rail, it looks like Ford completely redesigned it for the 4 litre engines.

It strangely appears that the later EF-EL engines are actually more suitable to do this conversion than the motor and associated parts out of the XG that followed the XF.

Other than the XG swaybar, fuel tank and (possibly) wiring looms, the rest of the swap should be done using the later EF-EL motors with the XF engine mounts in place.

Thanks for the suggestions anyway guys.

Always appreciated.

Jay.

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thanks i knew they where different but couldn't remember exactly how as these days i normally try to stick to the pre xf models nowadays
 

 

Also yes the serpi bet can be converted to the older motor had to do it to my brothers ed as it spat power steering belts like it was going out of fashion but it was a pain to do 

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Fan belts are easy.......

 

V belt size example : 11A1050 is 11mm wide by 1050mm long, 13A0855 is 13mm wide by 855mm long.

Serpentine    "         : 5PK2350 is 5 grooves across by 2350mm long.

 

Cut your old belt and get length with tape measure, minus 20mm or whatever. All belts run on the sides of the 'vee'.

Most Auto shops have a belt measurement device, if you take yours in.

 

:)

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Thanks for the tip Bear351c, I'll try that tomorrow...

That pic you pinched off the thread Steve put up is what I'm actually trying to avoid doing.

It isn't a very neat solution in my opinion.

The shorter belt sounds like the best way to go I reckon.

As I think 20mm shorter will do the job nicely.

On my engine it appears the alternator belt goes to the crank and waterpump pulleys.

So looks like I'll need to figure out a different belt to yours xm-221.

Thanks heaps for the info guys, been a awesome help as always.

Greatly appreciated as always.

Jay.

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Nah, not the fan mate.

It's similar to the pic on the previous page, the bottom screw that holds the casing together rubs up against the rail, so I was thinking of heating and shaping the bit where it touches. But I think a new (shorter) belt might give me better clearance and look neater in the process, as there's around 40-50mm of adjustment left on the bracket before it can't go inwards any further, so I think I will take advantage of it.

Maybe even a combination of the 2 ideas will do the trick without cutting anything.

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Had a look at belts today, the alternator, waterpump and crank belt on the XG 4L is a Bosch 3PK895, so 895mm long.

I found that Bosch also make a 3PK865 (30mm shorter), so I'm going to grab one as soon as I can and give it a shot.

I'll post how it goes, as it might be a neater solution for others that wind up in the same position.

Thanks for the help with it fellas.

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LOL, was more a sign of respect for digging up that old thread Steve.

No trouble here mate, you always give good advice.

I was gonna bring up the fan belt thing, but thought it was too obvious and someone would of picked up on that, beats notching chassis rails. hehehe.

Sorry, me quote thing didn't work.....

 

Go Ford! Jack.

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