Wondering What Weight/Brand oil to go on a just-ran-in Clevo?

[RAWDEAL 222]

I have Just finished up with the run in oil in my clevo and im wondering what weight and brand oil to use?

 

i want to use penrite HPR but the HPR range seems way way to thick?

 

It has HPR GAS 60w in it now.. but the pressure seems way to high 70+ ? 

 

The car runs on straight lpg

 

I put the thick oil in there because the pushrods were not hardened, which caused them to wear and clog the oil filter, causing oil pressure to drop, causing me to buy the thickest oil i could find lol

 

I would like a 10w30 but penrite seem to only make 40-50-60-70w oils in the HPR range?

 

 

[BigCav 464]

as much as i like the HPR range spend the extra and go 10 tenths

 

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=1&id_brand=3&id_products=277

[xeeclipse 37]

PENRITE HPR 15-60 FULL SYNTHETIC....Caters for a wide range of engines whether multi valve or pushrod and good in both high and low km engines.

How old were the pushrods you were using? You should use heavy duty ones just incase you momentarily have a loss of spark.

[RAWDEAL 222]

PENRITE HPR 15-60 FULL SYNTHETIC....Caters for a wide range of engines whether multi valve or pushrod and good in both high and low km engines.

How old were the pushrods you were using? You should use heavy duty ones just incase you momentarily have a loss of spark.

they were new but they wernt hardened ..  <1000kms and they were fkd to the point i could hear them tapping on the guides

 

i wasnt originally going to go roller rockers but the guy who convinced me to do it sold me the rockers, but not the correct pushrods to go with it ffs

[bear351c 10,270]

I use Penrite HPR GAS in my Clevo, no issues. Not a race engine, though. Just for work duties and a bit of weekend fun. Used it since rebuild 30k ago.

 

Synthetic will be fine, just dont mix and match. If you use synthetic, stay with it. (works with LPG, Diesel, commercial vehicles)

[RAWDEAL 222]

I use Penrite HPR GAS in my Clevo, no issues. Not a race engine, though. Just for work duties and a bit of weekend fun. Used it since rebuild 30k ago.

 

Synthetic will be fine, just dont mix and match. If you use synthetic, stay with it. (works with LPG, Diesel, commercial vehicles)

 

 

i think ill go with hpr or hpr gas , more than likely the thinner of those oils , it has 60w penrite in it and the guage reads 72 psi at idle lol

 

Is there anything wrong with the cheaper-named-brand oils out there? shell/valvoline/nulon/ect? i will be dailying this car in the future and 8.5L of oil every oil change tends to make things very expensive

 

do they lack the extra zinc or ?

[bear351c 10,270]

70 psi is fine, new bearings, tight tolerances, etc..

 

Nothing wrong with Shell/Valvoline/Whoever.............just personal choice. I buy Penrite, mainly 'cos it's Made In Oz.!

 

Run it in all my engines, bikes, mower, compressor, chainsaw, never had anything seize on me. Regular servicing is the key, just because your oil isn't dirty, doesn't mean it hasn't lost all its "goodness". Have had issues with Castrol going thin, real quick.

 

Just my opinions.

[Trev Vaa 1,185]

fresh break in i use brad penn break in oil, it has zinc and phosphorus in it.... perfect for coating bearings, cam, and lifters.

http://www.penngrade1.com/Products/High-Performance/Break-In-Oil.aspx

 

straight SAE30, no friction modifiers, i use that for the first thousand Ks, and do at least 3 oil changes in that period, first one after initial startup and cam break in, second one at 250km, and 3rd at 1000km, i keep an eye on the oil and if im not happy with it i do a change before the 1000 mark, gets all the shit out of the engine, and try and find a filter with a magnet on the end, otherwise put a magnetic strap around the end of it, catches more metal filings in the filter. always check the oil once you have dropped it and keep a sample in a jar on your bench sealed with the Kms written down on it, it gives you an idea of how the engine is going through the break in process.

HPR gas if your running LPG is probably the best oil you can run, i have the break downs of almost all valvoline, penrite, and castrol oils, 

 

i try and use brad penn oils in my own engines (excluding the ones with cats) because it just seems to do the best job of keeping the engine clean.

[xeeclipse 37]

First oil change at 500km is good enough and multigrade oil can be used from my experience. I usually use GTX3 which has supposedly got a low zinc content :/, although I do add half a tube of molybdenum additive. Done this the last 3 times and no problems.

[slydog 7,873]

I use PM 50 on start up run in and for use.Very expensive but it doesn't break down and it just works.

[gerg 10,871]

Some diesel engine oils designed for older non-euro engines have higher zinc levels, which are good for flat tappet engines. They also have high detergent levels for better cleaning. If you see dirty black oil when draining, you should be happy. It's doing its job.

 

I'd use a 15W40 on an engine that young, maybe even a 10W30, but mineral oil in that grade I'm not sure about. I'd never use synthetic until completely bedded in.

 

60 grade is way too thick i my opinion, and will work the oil pump hard. Tight new engines run small clearances and thicker oil is actually worse as there is less flow and more heat involved. Less flow: less splash lube onto the cam, wiped lobes. Even after break-in this can happen.