Testing Hall effect sensor?

[mcfly94 169]

Is it possible to test the hall effect In a tfi dizzy, ive got spark in my ignition setup (Street Fire CDI, Blaster 3 coil, TFI dizzy) Check was done by tapping the trigger from the cdi to ground while holding the coil lead to ground, spark was crazy.

But when I try to start the car, I the led light dosent flash on the street fire, timing light dosent flash and dosent spark.

[Tyler06 266]

Was it running before?

[Tyler06 266]

With all that gear?

[slydog 7,873]

Again hows it wired up bro and hows the module

[mcfly94 169]

Never running.

TFI module, using #1, #4 and #6

1 to White on CDI (brown on tfi)

4 to ignition from old dizzy (red/green on tfi)

6 to ground (orange/black on tfi)

 

CDI battery wires connected, small orange to coil +m small black to coil -

White to #1 on tfi module (brown) as stated above.

small red to ignition from old dizzy.

 

When I turn the ignition on should the led on the street fire stay light up? or blink and go out, mine goes out, and in the instructions that when 12v is applied to small red (ignition pickup), led will come on.

[n00bus m@x1mus 465]

White wire to pink/blue as explained in my pm... cut the brown and green/yellow wires out and insulate them from each other and everything else.

[mcfly94 169]

Yeah ive just rewired the tfi harness green/yellow, red/blue are gone, brown still in there but will be covered up.

Just with the cdi, should the led light stay on when ignition is on? mine dosent?

[mcfly94 169]

White wire to pink/blue as explained in my pm... cut the brown and green/yellow wires out and insulate them from each other and everything else.

still that seems backwards, the dizzy needs to trigger the white wire so my cdi can trigger the coil.

the pink/blue goes to the coil pretty sure its a negative wire, but I thought an ecu (when ran) trigged this cable (so if I use this cable the cdi would trigger the cable?)

[n00bus m@x1mus 465]

No your thinking backwards. The tfi modules triggers the coil via the pink/blue to the neg side of coil. Instead it will now trigger the cdi. The tfi does not need instruction from the ecu to trigger... it does this automatically from the pip signal it gets from the hall sensor. The ecu just adds advance to that signal... remove the ecu and it will run standalone.

[mcfly94 169]

oh really? this makes sense now!, cross fingers it works, im so lost.

 

 The tfi modules triggers the coil via the pink/blue to the neg side of coil. Instead it will now trigger the cdi.

Also should the street fire cdi blink stay on as long as the ignition is on?

[n00bus m@x1mus 465]

No its an event indicator, so it will blink once for every event or fire... obviously while the engine is running this will appear to stay on continuously and go out when stopped.

 

Try to imagine the tfi distributor is just a fancy technological device that does the same thing as ur humble points dizzy does. You got power (and in this case an earth aswell) going into the dizzy and a trigger wire coming back out to make the coil fire. that's what it is designed to do... its just that there is 2 extra wires in there so the ecu can understand what's going on too. Remove the extra 2 wires and we are back to basics again.

[slydog 7,873]

Oh my whats doing McFly...A TFI can be wired in different ways via the start/power or power or even pip signal power together with resistors in place if your CDI doesn't accept Hall's effect.Like I said before STOP over examining things or you will get a hernia and grey hairs like Old Gaz.

 

Here's the page you need to study...2nd 1 down.http://www.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=http://www.diyautotune.com/jwplayer_viral/images/cartech_articles/mustang/94-95_mustang_megascott_remote_tfi_harness1.gif&imgrefurl=http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_ford_mustang_5_0.htm&h=435&w=793&sz=16&tbnid=0I1IQLV11TL5iM:&tbnh=66&tbnw=120&zoom=1&usg=__mDwHXzQhTzf9EONJu0wWN6-HpnU=&docid=ZGkA8dFKct_GDM&sa=X&ei=jq2vUbKVDeToiAe724DgCw&sqi=2&ved=0CDUQ9QEwAw&dur=1676

 

Quick vid of another...

[mcfly94 169]

Well its rewired and all firing now!, had it running at 22 degrees but lost advance cause dizzy was hitting the block, will be all fixed tomorrow!, its amazing how it can run so far advanced from factory setting at idle!

[slydog 7,873]

No not at all...cos you put your total timing in at the crank now but the total amount is still the same.22 is no where near enough.

So sounds like you need a oil primer tool or old dizzy drive to lift the dizzy out move the oil pump gear and reset the dizzy back in 1 tooth back.Without moving the oil pump gear it will be pretty hard to move it back a cog with out the dizzy been to far out.

[mcfly94 169]

I mean lost advance because I cant turn the dizzy anymore.

Yeah im going take it all out and try again tomorrow, still need to mark my balancer.

[mcfly94 169]

Took longer than I should of to get the timing right! bloody 3 hours!, should of checked what stroke it was in the first place, got it in the end, and its at 28 degrees for now, makes more power, a lot different car, bit quicker.

 

Think its putting static/feedback through my speakers, never used to be there, after install it is, anyone used them noise filters? thinking about using one for each of my amps.

 

Also found it harder to starter my car, 575cca battery and au starter dosent cut it, it starts, but only just.

[Clevo120Y 815]

She will be harder to start because of the locked timing, if it becomes a problem I think you can get a retarding module just for startup.

[Tyler06 266]

Side effect of having locked timing. Upgrade you battery cables, chuck another earth on and try that. My corty with 11.8/1cr 650cca battery and au starter turned over real good even at 28* static.

[mcfly94 169]

Side effect of having locked timing. Upgrade you battery cables, chuck another earth on and try that. My corty with 11.8/1cr 650cca battery and au starter turned over real good even at 28* static.

where would I put another earth, I have earthed the boot, block and engine bay from battery.

[n00bus m@x1mus 465]

Make sure your starter itself is earthing to the block or better yet take that earth you got going to your block now and slip it under one of the starter bolts so u got a direct line. Mine is 10:1 comp, AU starter, 530cca, locked at 36degs and it starts no probs and my battery is 4m from the starter motor. How many cranks does it do before it fires? That might be your problem, get your tune right and it will start on the first stroke.

[mcfly94 169]

Yeah ill move my earth, yeah mines about 6m and is 8awg.

Does about 2/3 But it goes to crank then feels like flat battery then just gets crankning.

Yeah it needs a tune, should get a good tune when that afr gets here!

[Tyler06 266]

Yeah another thing that will cause it to crank slow is rich mixtures. I did have that problem in the begining but forgot all about it. My engine was getting supplied too much fuel and once tuned it was sweet. The innovate afr will do you great justice but only if you know exactly what needs changing. When SCM done mine they showed me a few things i didnt know but i also shocked them with my timing graph working better than theres :-) A good tune is worth every cent :-) ( mine cost $850 ) anyways good luck mate.

[slydog 7,873]

Or easier way would be run a switch inside to turn the MSD on after the engine has wound over a bit and up at a decent speed then when you flick the switch it will fire straight up.Many blown cars use to do this back before they had start retard systems.This fix will cost around $5.

 

But I can't see why's so hard to start when my 11.7 comp solid cammed engine wound over on the 6AL 2 with 32 degrees timing same as it did with the Digital6 which had start retard.

 

[mcfly94 169]

Or easier way would be run a switch inside to turn the MSD on after the engine has wound over a bit and up at a decent speed then when you flick the switch it will fire straight up.Many blown cars use to do this back before they had start retard systems.This fix will cost around $5.

 

But I can't see why's so hard to start when my 11.7 comp solid cammed engine wound over on the 6AL 2 with 32 degrees timing same as it did with the Digital6 which had start retard.

 

are you still on locked timing? yeah I don't know either, think its the tune, I moved my earths, battery start to starter housing, and then block to chassis, and have battery to metal in the boot.

Still only 8awg for the starter cable from the boot.

[slydog 7,873]

Yes,32 degrees all in @ the crank...If you still have no luck try having a power switch before the MSD and I BET my balls it would fix it.Drag racers and speedway guys have been doing since before you were born.