ZKFairlane

Give Tony at Capital Steering and Suspension in Canberra a ring (02 6280 5243).  They used to send those pumps away to someone who could recon them, but that was a long time ago.

Had something similar with the young blokes BF Turbo; it kept triggering a coil pack error in number one cylinder and running like a dog.  Put nos plugs, coils, sensors etc in it to no avail (similar to your situation).
 
Took it to an old school mechanic and he changed the inlet manifold gaskets and removed the engine hook and all is good.  The old gaskets were so hard and perished that they would leak air when the motor heated up but were ok when it was cold.

Mine's an Aug 84 efi.  It's a BW40 with the later shifter mechanism (black plastic).
Here's as pic from above;

The workshop manual states that the 35 was replaced with the 40 concurrent with the introduction of EFI in 1983 (as you've stated earlier), but that "these transmissions are of the same basic design".  The listed differences are mainly internal except for a change tot he extension housing to suit the revised speedo drive location.
 
There's a diagram for each linkage setup in the manual;


 
The drawing of the early version makes it a bit hard to workout what shape the long shaft is.
 
There does seem to be some differences to the linkages;
- The gearbox linkage on the early goes up and in where the later one goes up and out, and
- The tbar linkage going down on the early seems to be straight where the one on the later bends out.
 

eBay items;
275449225242
275449232652
275449231975 and
275449224143
 
275449225242 looks the closest, but I'm not sure that it's bent correctly (I'll have a look at mine from above tomorrow to see what it looks like).  But it wouldn't take much to re-align it.

eBay items;
275449225242
275449232652
275449231975 and
275449224143
 
275449225242 looks the closest, but I'm not sure that it's bent correctly (I'll have a look at mine from above tomorrow to see what it looks like).  But it wouldn't take much to re-align it.

Here's one fitted.

Here's one fitted.

I'll have to remember that fuel line trick when I go to restart the motor (need to remove the 4ltr, paint the engine bay and put the EFI back together and back into the bay first...)

Just picked the radiator up from the shop.
 
He had a number of other higher priority stuff to do , so mine took a little longer to do.
 
Turns out that the radiator is the original unit, Denso style.  It was in pretty good condition and all he needed to do was clean it our (in a pickle bath) and sweat (solder) a few of the cores; one at the top outlet (a known problem with these radiators caused by thermo shock when the thermostat opes and closes) and the bottom outlet, and give it a new coat of paint.
 
Cost was $250 (normally $350, but as I've have a few radiators done with him and he enjoyed chatting about old fords, he gave me a discount!) .   He mentioned that a replacement radiator is going for around $800.  I didn't ask for the cost of a re-core, but would expect it to be between $250 to $800...
 
He recommended;
- put an 82 degree thermostat in it (as I will be running air con),
- use a 13lb cap, and
- use coolant at 20% concentration.
 

I just dropped the radiator out of the ZK at my radiator shop to have it checked out.  He's old school and one of the last guys in the region that can still do brazing work.
 
Initial look revealed that the core may need some work.
 
I'll report back with what he did and the cost next Wednesday.

I just dropped the radiator out of the ZK at my radiator shop to have it checked out.  He's old school and one of the last guys in the region that can still do brazing work.
 
Initial look revealed that the core may need some work.
 
I'll report back with what he did and the cost next Wednesday.

I just dropped the radiator out of the ZK at my radiator shop to have it checked out.  He's old school and one of the last guys in the region that can still do brazing work.
 
Initial look revealed that the core may need some work.
 
I'll report back with what he did and the cost next Wednesday.

I just dropped the radiator out of the ZK at my radiator shop to have it checked out.  He's old school and one of the last guys in the region that can still do brazing work.
 
Initial look revealed that the core may need some work.
 
I'll report back with what he did and the cost next Wednesday.

That consoles a Frankenstein...  The console itself was out of a ZJ, the front metal hooks are from an XF console and I don't remember where I got the manual ring from.  I thought it was with an XD gearbox I picked up along the way.  I do remember that I had to trim out the hole to make the ring fit.  We did have it installed in the ZJ with the 4 speed and it worked a treat.

This is the metal ring that XD's had.  This was for a borgie 4 speed.  As deankxf mentioned earlier, it's riveted on.
.

I was just typing the same thing...
 
As Thom says, it won't do anything until the vacuum duct in the air horn is connected.  There's normally a hose with a vacuum delay valve from the vacuum duct to a bi-metal switch in the base of the air cleaner body.  A hose then goes from the bi-metal switch to the top port of the three port tee in the inlet manifold.
 
So, when the car starts cold, the vacuum duct is opened and draws warm air from the manifold.  As the car warms up, the duct closes and the car draws cold air.
 
It's normal state is open and draws cold air.

From the workshop manual's crappy diagram, it looks like the block tube goes thru a bracket that is attached to the top of the air con unit, then to another bracket that hangs from the inner bolt of the shock tower and then to the heater tap.
 
The water pump hose is clamped to the other hose at the air con bracket, it then goes thru the bracket on the shock tower and then to the other inlet on the firewall.

It's the original autolite coil that the motor was built with.

It's the original autolite coil that the motor was built with.

It's the original autolite coil that the motor was built with.

It's the original autolite coil that the motor was built with.

That would do it!
 
The purple wire is the fused side of the power windows, so wouldn't cause any issues here.  However, the black (with green tracer) goes back to the ignition switch and would have provided constant power (as you described).

All that's done is bypassed the fuse for the horn circuit (yellow with pink tracer wire).  The plate that the yellow wire plugs unto is the battery side of all the fuses and it runs up the middle of the panel to provide +ve to all of the circuits (yellow provides constant power to all circuits on the left of your picture, black with green tracer provides power to the circuits on the right with ignition on).  The plugs to the left of your picture are the fused sides that goes to each circuit. I doubt bridging the horn it would cause your issues.
 
Any chance the washer fell down into that position when you removed the fuse panel?  If not, I'd still go looking for incorrect matching plugs.
 
 

I'd say check the plugs too, it looks like you have constant power from a non ignition circuit.  From memory, the main half moon shaped plugs on the drivers side are either brown or red.  Make sure that you've plugged the correct coloured ones together.
 
Also check what you've done on the ECU (passengers) side too.  There's a few single wire plugs that feed back to the dash and some that go to the aircon/engine bay.  It's easy to get them mixed up.

I'd say check the plugs too, it looks like you have constant power from a non ignition circuit.  From memory, the main half moon shaped plugs on the drivers side are either brown or red.  Make sure that you've plugged the correct coloured ones together.
 
Also check what you've done on the ECU (passengers) side too.  There's a few single wire plugs that feed back to the dash and some that go to the aircon/engine bay.  It's easy to get them mixed up.