ZKFairlane

Give Tony at Capital Steering and Suspension in Canberra a ring (02 6280 5243). They used to send those pumps away to someone who could recon them, but that was a long time ago.

I've been helping a nephew out with his XW. He's just done a REVs check and the report has come back with an engine number that I'm not familiar with. Could someone shed some light on this? PCCHG16238C To me, everything from the HG on wards looks ok (ie April 1968 six cylinder). But what does the PCC stand for?

Had something similar with the young blokes BF Turbo; it kept triggering a coil pack error in number one cylinder and running like a dog. Put nos plugs, coils, sensors etc in it to no avail (similar to your situation). Took it to an old school mechanic and he changed the inlet manifold gaskets and removed the engine hook and all is good. The old gaskets were so hard and perished that they would leak air when the motor heated up but were ok when it was cold.

Mine's an Aug 84 efi. It's a BW40 with the later shifter mechanism (black plastic). Here's as pic from above; The workshop manual states that the 35 was replaced with the 40 concurrent with the introduction of EFI in 1983 (as you've stated earlier), but that "these transmissions are of the same basic design". The listed differences are mainly internal except for a change tot he extension housing to suit the revised speedo drive location. There's a diagram for each linkage setup in the manual; The drawing of the early version makes it a bit hard to workout what shape the long shaft is. There does seem to be some differences to the linkages; - The gearbox linkage on the early goes up and in where the later one goes up and out, and - The tbar linkage going down on the early seems to be straight where the one on the later bends out.

eBay items; 275449225242 275449232652 275449231975 and 275449224143 275449225242 looks the closest, but I'm not sure that it's bent correctly (I'll have a look at mine from above tomorrow to see what it looks like). But it wouldn't take much to re-align it.

Here's one fitted.

I agree re the thermostat, I've always run the stock versions for the reasons you both mention. He was very animated re the coolant ratio (he spoke about inhibitor and water soluble oil and their effects too). His take is that too high a ratio (ie above 20%) created shaling in the motor. I've bought a couple of caps from Autopro and Repco recently and they give you a 13lb one by default... I suspect that by using a lower temp thermo and a lower pressure cap, the stresses on the cooling system would be lower, but the impacts on system performance would need to be taken into account to see if it's worth doing. No point running cooler if the thing ends up running too rich to compensate. He identified the radiator as the original Denso by pointing out a number of things that made it one; the number and location of the vertical straps, and the marking/stampings on the header tanks. He actually pointed out the differences between mine and a Natrad/Adrad one (vertical straps and rods and associated nuts, markings). He wasn't impressed with the design of any of them; both the inlets and outlets fail relatively early due to what he called thermo shock from the thermostat opening. He's been doing this for excess of 40 years, so I have no reason to doubt him. But he is known locally as a bit of a sideways thinker... Anyway, just some info from an old school guy with some strong ideas and thoughts that people can take or leave.

I'll have to remember that fuel line trick when I go to restart the motor (need to remove the 4ltr, paint the engine bay and put the EFI back together and back into the bay first...)

Just picked the radiator up from the shop. He had a number of other higher priority stuff to do , so mine took a little longer to do. Turns out that the radiator is the original unit, Denso style. It was in pretty good condition and all he needed to do was clean it our (in a pickle bath) and sweat (solder) a few of the cores; one at the top outlet (a known problem with these radiators caused by thermo shock when the thermostat opes and closes) and the bottom outlet, and give it a new coat of paint. Cost was $250 (normally $350, but as I've have a few radiators done with him and he enjoyed chatting about old fords, he gave me a discount!) . He mentioned that a replacement radiator is going for around $800. I didn't ask for the cost of a re-core, but would expect it to be between $250 to $800... He recommended; - put an 82 degree thermostat in it (as I will be running air con), - use a 13lb cap, and - use coolant at 20% concentration.

I just dropped the radiator out of the ZK at my radiator shop to have it checked out. He's old school and one of the last guys in the region that can still do brazing work. Initial look revealed that the core may need some work. I'll report back with what he did and the cost next Wednesday.

Thinking about it, I also had problems lining up the vent in the console with the air out bit in the dash. A bit of tongue out and questioning the parentage of Henry Ford and I got it in ok in the end... To secure the metal, CAREFULLY drill out the holes in the console and rivet the plate in. I used aluminum rivets as they are softer than the steel ones.

Seems odd that it won't work for you. We put an EL T5 into the son's XF and all we did was swap the auto section for a manual one in the console. We didn't have to modify it or the lever for the T5 to work. Is the console seating properly into the dash? I now I had a hell of a time getting ours to fit properly as I'd somehow mis aligned the dash and it wouldn't let the console go all the way in.

That consoles a Frankenstein... The console itself was out of a ZJ, the front metal hooks are from an XF console and I don't remember where I got the manual ring from. I thought it was with an XD gearbox I picked up along the way. I do remember that I had to trim out the hole to make the ring fit. We did have it installed in the ZJ with the 4 speed and it worked a treat.

This is the metal ring that XD's had. This was for a borgie 4 speed. As deankxf mentioned earlier, it's riveted on. .

I was just typing the same thing... As Thom says, it won't do anything until the vacuum duct in the air horn is connected. There's normally a hose with a vacuum delay valve from the vacuum duct to a bi-metal switch in the base of the air cleaner body. A hose then goes from the bi-metal switch to the top port of the three port tee in the inlet manifold. So, when the car starts cold, the vacuum duct is opened and draws warm air from the manifold. As the car warms up, the duct closes and the car draws cold air. It's normal state is open and draws cold air.

From the workshop manual's crappy diagram, it looks like the block tube goes thru a bracket that is attached to the top of the air con unit, then to another bracket that hangs from the inner bolt of the shock tower and then to the heater tap. The water pump hose is clamped to the other hose at the air con bracket, it then goes thru the bracket on the shock tower and then to the other inlet on the firewall.

It's the original autolite coil that the motor was built with.

My bad... Purple is head lamps.

That would do it! The purple wire is the fused side of the power windows, so wouldn't cause any issues here. However, the black (with green tracer) goes back to the ignition switch and would have provided constant power (as you described).

All that's done is bypassed the fuse for the horn circuit (yellow with pink tracer wire). The plate that the yellow wire plugs unto is the battery side of all the fuses and it runs up the middle of the panel to provide +ve to all of the circuits (yellow provides constant power to all circuits on the left of your picture, black with green tracer provides power to the circuits on the right with ignition on). The plugs to the left of your picture are the fused sides that goes to each circuit. I doubt bridging the horn it would cause your issues. Any chance the washer fell down into that position when you removed the fuse panel? If not, I'd still go looking for incorrect matching plugs.

I'd say check the plugs too, it looks like you have constant power from a non ignition circuit. From memory, the main half moon shaped plugs on the drivers side are either brown or red. Make sure that you've plugged the correct coloured ones together. Also check what you've done on the ECU (passengers) side too. There's a few single wire plugs that feed back to the dash and some that go to the aircon/engine bay. It's easy to get them mixed up.

That is one very stock and unmolested XY Fairmont Wagon with some rare options; Teal Glow in colour, 8 track. It would go for stupid money locally... Y engine in an XY is a 302 2 barrel Windsor (noting that the bottom radiator hose is on the passenger side, which some will say makes it a Cleveland, but it's a Windsor...). So that motor is correct for that car. If it is matching numbers, even better. The engine number on these is the same as the VIN number; JG35LE72036K. It will be stamped on the flat area on the block at the back of the manifold. A pain to get to. All 302 XYs were Windsors. There are rumors that the 1972 xy utes may have had clevelands, but I've never seen one. The 302 Cleveland commenced in the XA. Trans "R" is auto column shift and Trim "B" is black. That's one very stock 302. By the way the heater hoses are running, it looks like it still has the original two port carby heater on it. I'd love to see a picture with the air filter off. I can't make it out in the pictures, but the top radiator tank would have "Fomoco" stamped on it if it was the original one. Regardless, that radiator is an original type one. Train spotters will note that the clamps are no original... Paint code 5 is Teal Glow. Not very common. V8 Fairmont Wagons weren't very common either (they have unique chrome pieces around the rear door widows).