2redrovers

Fuck I love P5s, they're euro style and muscle all in one. I'd make mine into a corner-carver, supercharged 4.6 and injection, t56 and big brakes. In turquoise metallic, shod with wide steelies and redwalls. Yeh!
 
 
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I've been tinkering again...
Rover p6 (Tc variation in the pic I used)

Turned into a 2 door sled using a roof swap from a rover p5 coupe

P5 coupe

That's the one

Did you mean my p6 coupe? Here, I let the air out of the bags

 
If you meant the p5, I'll have a play with it later and see where I end up.

I've been tinkering again...
Rover p6 (Tc variation in the pic I used)

Turned into a 2 door sled using a roof swap from a rover p5 coupe

P5 coupe

Ok I promised a proper review so here goes:
 
It's been nearly 2 weeks since the install, and I've pretty much worked out its good and bad points.
 
• it's unbeatable bang-for-buck. I landed it here for a shade under $350 AUD. They sell locally (new, not refurbished like mine) starting at $550.
 
• the low end torque is amazing. I thought my annular Holleys were good but this is like fuel injection (no exaggeration). Driving around town, there's absolutely no need to hit the secondaries, the performance is enough at 1/3 throttle.
 
• although they say that refurbs are returned units that are checked and cleaned, mine showed no signs of previous installation (no marks around the stud holes).
 
• installation was piss-easy with exception to some issues that are peculiar to my setup, ie non-standard throttle cable and spread bore adaptor (outlined above in previous post). It fired up and idled by itself with very minor tweaks, just like they said it would.
 
• the secondaries open with a glorious howl just like on an Edelbrock or Quadrajet, and traction is now an issue that wasn't there before
 
• has a single fuel inlet so no dicking around with t-pieces and clamps, custom fuel bars, etc.
 
• Its float bowls are sealed so no longer has that old car aura of fuel smell after you park it. Also the composite body keeps temps down so much less or no percolation from heat soak.
 
• comes with lots of bits to cater for different setups: 3/8", 5/16" and SAE flare fuel fittings, 4x mount studs and nuts, 2 different ball ends or a clevis pin for the throttle cable, air cleaner stud, metal intermediate plate and 2 gaskets... Oh and 2 go-fast stickers
 
Ok now for the few issues that I've had:
 
• the primary throttle is a bit tight and hangs up a tad, but only when the engine's running. I suspect it's an alignment issue that will probably go away as it all beds in. I fitted an extra return spring that's made the accelerator a bit heavy but it works fine.
 
• The secondary air flap was catching on the housing, making it a bit clunky in operation. I noticed the screws that hold it to the shaft were a bit off from the holes, so I loosened them and tweaked the flap to open and close without catching. I suspect this is a new carby that failed QC due to these issues but I really don't mind, it's not an issue for me.
 
• the linkages are all held on with impossibly small circlips. They are so small that you can't feel them on your fingers when removing/replacing. Very scary if you lose one and wonder if it fell down the carby, etc. I made the mistake of changing the pump stroke in the dark on the side of the road and had all sorts of trouble putting it back on. I plan on removing them all and installing wire pin clips that you can at least change without tweezers. Changing rods requires removing the choke linkage right over the top of the carby with one of these clips needing removal. Again, scary.
 
• Changing jets (primary or secondary) involves stripping the carby apart completely. Not so bad if only your primaries need tweaking as there is enough of a selection of rods to tune them without needing to swap jets. Also primary jets are specific to this carby only. Secondaries are standard Holley jets.
 
• if a carby is sold ready to run out of the box, you can guarantee that it's going to be rich, which this one is. Stock rods are 60/52, jets are 78. Rods and jets are in increments of 0.002". On reading other reviews, I think I might go either 2 sizes leaner (bigger) in rods to 64/56, or one rod size up (62/54) and one jet down (76). Rods are about $10US a pair, jets $5.
 
• the secondaries had a pretty bad bog when I first drove it. A 1/2" spanner and a flat screwy is used to adjust the tension in the spring, and you go 1/4 of a turn each time to increase the opening tension. They reckon don't go more than 1 turn tighter than factory but I went 1-1/2 and it's mostly gone now. Even at that, the secondaries still feel a bit lean for my engine, might need a bigger jet.
 
• fuel consumption is pretty shit so far, which goes with being way rich. I also do a lot of short, cold runs which knocks the economy around.
 
Anyway I'll be doing more long country runs in the near future and after I tune the primaries I'll update any progress made.
 
 
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Simple fact is that noone will be able to restore a plastic car even if they wanted to. Fast-forward 30 yrs and there will be no stockpile of plastic parts like guys hoard steel panels. No one will invest money to remake plastic bars etc for current cars by then due to the expense and reliance on petroleum components for manufacturing.
 
You'll have the odd enthusiast making hand made panels from a composite material but the cost would be huge. I'm sure you fellas with early plastic barred cars will already be noticing a difficulty in finding replacements and it will just become harder as time goes on.
 
Forgive the rantings of an old fashioned metal man.

There was also talk of developing the mustang platform into a 4-door and going global with that, effectively a Falcon replacement.
 
The yanks would love it too. From what they saw of our BA Falcons that went there for trials, they asked some serious questions of how a little country like Aus can put together such a good car, made on 1/10 the budget of the yank dullboxes, but in their words, "a BMW at 1/3 the price".
 
Sad really, that protectionism in their market fucked us over, and they got the Taurus instead of a world-class RWD sedan in the Falcon.

Simple fact is that noone will be able to restore a plastic car even if they wanted to. Fast-forward 30 yrs and there will be no stockpile of plastic parts like guys hoard steel panels. No one will invest money to remake plastic bars etc for current cars by then due to the expense and reliance on petroleum components for manufacturing.
 
You'll have the odd enthusiast making hand made panels from a composite material but the cost would be huge. I'm sure you fellas with early plastic barred cars will already be noticing a difficulty in finding replacements and it will just become harder as time goes on.
 
Forgive the rantings of an old fashioned metal man.

Simple fact is that noone will be able to restore a plastic car even if they wanted to. Fast-forward 30 yrs and there will be no stockpile of plastic parts like guys hoard steel panels. No one will invest money to remake plastic bars etc for current cars by then due to the expense and reliance on petroleum components for manufacturing.
 
You'll have the odd enthusiast making hand made panels from a composite material but the cost would be huge. I'm sure you fellas with early plastic barred cars will already be noticing a difficulty in finding replacements and it will just become harder as time goes on.
 
Forgive the rantings of an old fashioned metal man.

I agree... If it aint built here and its not rear wheel drive,,, I would rather it not be called a Failcon....
 
Holden owners on the other hand will love their new front wheel drive Commonwhores

When you drill out the welds, take it slow and easy, only go through the layer you are removing and keep the drill speed down. You want it to spin fast enough to see it cut the chips of steel away but slow enough that it doesn't overheat the bit. Will last longer as they are a pain to sharpen without the right grinding tool.
When you clean it up to go back in, spray the overlapping edges with either zinc primer or epoxy. Line up the panel, then clean the spot where you need to weld for good conductivity. I usually weld with the wire feed a little lower than normal to get a slightly hotter weld with a bit less build up to clean.

I had another shot at the wheels using the ones off that ute. The grey wheels are my not so flash attempt at changing the gold ones to something like the right colour.
Personally, I kinda like the gold ones but agree they would look different in real life. Depends what impact you are aiming for, your car after all.

You both have done a great job, the gold looks great, really gives an indication of what it could look like. Cheers.

One trick I hadn't tried yet was shrinking the red image down by about half to match the blue ute. Might mean you retain detail in the wheels as they don't get stretched out.

Blue ute was close to the right angle if there's a higher quality image around somewhere. I'm starting to get the hang of making a pic fit another pics angles, within reason. The recolouring is what I have the most trouble with. Can't work out how some of these guys do paint jobs and colour changes so well.

Blue ute was close to the right angle if there's a higher quality image around somewhere. I'm starting to get the hang of making a pic fit another pics angles, within reason. The recolouring is what I have the most trouble with. Can't work out how some of these guys do paint jobs and colour changes so well.

Here's my attempt for you, I've been playing for ages with images of the net but can't find anything that the angle is right for the front.
 

 
 
If you have a square on side on image in the current seduce red it would make it much easier, i can only find one in your thread from before it was painted.
 

Burgundy is a colour that can usually carry gold but does depend on the value of each ie how light or dark. I think the combo manages to be classy and mean/tough at same time.
 
The darker ones will look good too but wouldn't grab your eye as much. Could be a good or bad thing depending how you view it. More or less attention.

You have done bloody well, I think the gold (even though a picture) looks fair better than I imagined, I like it a lot.
Cheers

I had another shot at the wheels using the ones off that ute. The grey wheels are my not so flash attempt at changing the gold ones to something like the right colour.
Personally, I kinda like the gold ones but agree they would look different in real life. Depends what impact you are aiming for, your car after all.

Here ya go bear, this what you had in mind?

Ok here we go, I think it's a little iffy as far as my chop goes but hopefully it gives you an idea. I made the gold wheels deep dish and the dark ones as per the sample. Tried getting better quality pic of the wheels from their website but it's down.

Ok here we go, I think it's a little iffy as far as my chop goes but hopefully it gives you an idea. I made the gold wheels deep dish and the dark ones as per the sample. Tried getting better quality pic of the wheels from their website but it's down.

Here ya go bear, this what you had in mind?