Crebe

I agree it's crazy why .  Yes in the early falcons they did . I'm not 100% sure exactly which. Might been pre XP ? 
 
Might also been to do with some early 6 cylinders , 144 , 170 etc had a very small bellhousing pattern at the motor side and hence smaller bellhousing.
Those I think had the Ford o matic but when they went to the 200 auto went to the BW35
 
Came across it also when a friend got a U.S Falcon , was a 3 speed manual 6 cylinder.  When I built a C4 to go in it with a 302 the tunnel needed work

Can anyone tell me if they hace pit a 4 spd auto in an xr 1966. I have one in my ute and think it maybe at the wrong agle for the box to tailshaft. Its possible someone couldnt get it up into the tunnel enough. Do xr xt xw xy have different tunnel sizes as in bigger than xr?

I have had brake fluid squirting up and comming out of the master cylinder and running onto the area underneath. Only found it too late for the paint. The brake experts wont help or have no idea. All sorts of sugestions came from this forum so I decided to buy a new master after preasure bleeding and vacume bleeding, as well as putting on a new PBR CAP SEAL!  Now I read that the cylinder I picked "Protex" after being assured they were good, is not recomended as they have problems. SHIT AND F..UCK ME! Anyway you may have the same gremlin as me. If this new Protex cylinder is a fail, after I bash my head on the concrete floor, I will try for a rebuilt  origonal unit worth a bazilion dollars. How the hell do brake parts that are new be crap? How do they make it into the country. On the subject the Protex unit i bought would not let the fitting screw in far enough to seal the lines. The thread in the master was not tapped deep enough and so the fittings had to be changed. Cut the lines and add in new different fittings on a short new piece with a union. Dont buy Protex would be my recomendation! 

Sparky Dave the thingy i described is for when either the front or rear brake lines loses preasure. It sits in a neutral position when both front and back brakes have preasure but if say the rears lose preasure the front brake preasure will force the litlle piston to move and so doing makes the brake fail switch turn on. The reverse happens if the front brakes lose preasure. It has preasure either end of it which keeps it from moving, then when it loses preasure at on end it is pushed to the on position. Simple. Just wondering if one of the 2 holes in the rear resrve are connect to that little piston. As i said one hole is rite above the brake fail piston and thats the one shooting fluid way into the air. Got an origonal newold stock cap seal on it but it still comes out around the ca I adges, even though the lid clip is as tight as.

Sparky Dave, the PBR master cylinders are unobtainium if new. PBR got bought out by Bosch who quicly stopped preducing any labelled PBR products. One on the net now NOS $880 or a referb to good quality fron $665 BUT! I think you have to supply a unit to them that is good enough to refurb! I was going to make sure about the O2 sensor quantity on the EB as I have been told 1 and also 2. I am after a second hand EB WORKSHOP MANUAL to help with my head scratching. I had a thought today that if the rear brake master piston seals fail does it force fluid up into the reserve? There are two holes in each reserve,front and rear brakes. The hole its pissing up through in the rear brake reserve is a tiny little hole at the front drivers side of the reserve. In fact looking at photos my reserve hole looks smaller than any others in the photos. Could these extra small holes in each reserve be where the fluid can go when a seal fails? In fact the hole looks to be to the side and directly over the little piston/plunger thingy for the brake fail switch. Hmmm. Any ideas you guys that know lots of stuff about brakes?

Ok have done the following. Removed the MAF and cleaned it with MAF cleaner, removed the 02 sensor and cleaned it and soaked in carb/throtle body cleaner for 6 hours reinstalled with a tiny bit of antiseize on the thread. TPS, Checked the resistance on brown wire? and the base voltage 1.19? and max voltage 4.39  by measuring while slowly opening the throttle while the key was on ...green wire. 
AIC was removed and cleaned in carb cleaner but looked very good anyway. Vale operated smothly. This unit, Fuelmiser, was put in about 2-3K ago. It replaced a genuine unit. I took it for a run before i did the AIC and it seemed fixed as it had no more surging. The only thing i need to check now is if the idle has stedied. The cold start I did seemed to hold the revs up around 900 for five seconds then  slowly returns to 650, a small quick touch of the throttle makes it hang the same way again at 900 the slow back to 650. Dont know if thats acseptable or not but wish it would drop straight to 600 or 650. Thanks for the info and i checked a lot on th net which also help confirm things.
Thanks again for the help!

Ok NTK brand of injectors? Is that what you are talking about SPArKy_Dave ? Also i thought there was a sticker saying dont clean near the maf. What do ford recomend to clean it with. And also what is a AIC ?  and where is it and the EGR ?

Ooops that O2 sensor.

Thank you?all for those bits of advice. I willstart at the ot sensor and try to find how to check it. Also can i use a certain cleaner to clean it first to see if it makes a difference?

Further to what i have just said, after cleaning some crap and overspray paint off the arm where it connects to the motor unit, it turns out it may be on a sline as it now looks round not oval. Just have to hope the wD40 gets in enough to let me pry it off!

Thanks for the info. I am still looking for a chance to score a set of gt or ltd etc radius bars and think i will be looking for a while. should be enough to control the power I hope to be using.

Hi. I have a 5lt efi EB XR8 engine , according to my ecu info on my car, and have been looking at the engine number on my rego to try and identify the year and model it came out of. I have seen on other posts info on where to look for the number on the block but have not been able to site it yet. The info I found says above the starter above or below the starter. I did find some info on 302 and 5lt blocks but it may have been American. Do the Aus blocks have a different number system to the yanks or are they the same? My engine number, according to the rego papers is PG32847. Can any one give me a link that works or identify my number for me. This motor is in my 66 XR ute so I can't give any other specific info on the vehicle to help with a search. Hope some one can help. Ta

Hey guys thanks for the replies and the info. Am still trying to use the site but its way better than the other forum to learn and so far the people have been very helpful. Re  my brakes I have replaced all hses with braided fronts and new rear rubber also bought two types of bleaders, one is massive, and bled the shite out of them. A job I learnt at about age 10 from mech Dad. Also was told the gearbox is not a AOD OR AODE so went digging and sure shite its a DSI/BTR M95LE. I do see various aod performance boxes offered in aus just to nite. I also saw a pages on the Mods for the BTR box DTW I think, and they mentioned the separate ECUs and full manual conversions. Anyway good info and help. I am answering this via my phone as the replies come in via email. If I look at OzFalcon on my tablet I'm forked if I can see how to find my shite. I will keep having a go. Drove my first car at 6 with Dad as my tutor. Stole the same car at 7 and drove it myself! 6500 acres of race track.

I was looking a site with some useful info on swapping a 5lt windsor and several of the common mistakes made. I am still checking mine and have found three so far. 5lt should have 2 cos sensors and they should be within 3 inches down street of the exhaust collector. Strike 1. The air filter  should not be fitted straight up against the MAF. Strike 2. The throttle body should not have a bend directly (close) before or after it. Strike 3. The alternative location  for the air cleaner is up front left side near the radiator. This requires shrouding the filter. All bullshite or not.? Here hopefully is the thingy to go to. https://www.hotrod.com/articles/25-ford-302-5-0-efi-engine-swap-errors/ 
For a carby guy struggling to get a handle on some of the efi tech, I found this helpful.

Hey guys thanks for the replies and the info. Am still trying to use the site but its way better than the other forum to learn and so far the people have been very helpful. Re  my brakes I have replaced all hses with braided fronts and new rear rubber also bought two types of bleaders, one is massive, and bled the shite out of them. A job I learnt at about age 10 from mech Dad. Also was told the gearbox is not a AOD OR AODE so went digging and sure shite its a DSI/BTR M95LE. I do see various aod performance boxes offered in aus just to nite. I also saw a pages on the Mods for the BTR box DTW I think, and they mentioned the separate ECUs and full manual conversions. Anyway good info and help. I am answering this via my phone as the replies come in via email. If I look at OzFalcon on my tablet I'm forked if I can see how to find my shite. I will keep having a go. Drove my first car at 6 with Dad as my tutor. Stole the same car at 7 and drove it myself! 6500 acres of race track.