Crebe

Can anyone tell me if they hace pit a 4 spd auto in an xr 1966. I have one in my ute and think it maybe at the wrong agle for the box to tailshaft. Its possible someone couldnt get it up into the tunnel enough. Do xr xt xw xy have different tunnel sizes as in bigger than xr?

Thanks. The way i measured it was off the front of the motor on a pulley or hamonic. It runs syraight off the end of th crank so gives a clear measirement but still have to allow for the angle the vehicle sits, as in front down, level or arse down. Also the angle of the floor you are on. I will have to do it all again as I cant find it in any of my many note books. Got a feeling it was about 8 degrees down on th motor but cant remember. Love to know for sure about the tunnel!

GregAust....they had auto and manual tunnels. Realy. What a stupid thing for a munufacturer to do. Just pick the bigest and go with that!

Have measured with a electronic ang ll e level and looks to me like the motor points downhill towards the ground to far. Dont have the angles with me but can dig tgem out. Mainly want to know if the XR have a smaller tunnel than XW XY

I have replaced the new master with another new master a protex and immedatly find out they are shit....or so i am told. I procrastinated and rang and visited brake "experts" and they were of no help. Said "they only can buy the chinese ones as thats all they make now" and asked them to look in stocks for an origonal PBR to recondition. After repeated requests to go and look they said we wouldnt have one! rang a guy that said he has never had any trouble with the masters he sells and i bought it. That item is the Protex. I have fixed the fluid problem out of it and the only thing I am suspicous of is that air may have been in tbe rears somewhere. I am not happy with the performance of these xf brakes on my xr and have had the calipers reconditioned . Have Bendix pads to replace the hardly worn Bendix pads new rotors and every thing on the rear drums. I blead the livin shit out of the lines, vacome this time. Have called Vari brakes and Talked with Ceasar and am looking at six pot brakes on 290 discs so i can change back to 15s from 18s for rego etc. He has to get back to me re any changes in track etc. I dont realy want 6 spot as its way more than I need. 4 pot would be better or even two pot.

I have had brake fluid squirting up and comming out of the master cylinder and running onto the area underneath. Only found it too late for the paint. The brake experts wont help or have no idea. All sorts of sugestions came from this forum so I decided to buy a new master after preasure bleeding and vacume bleeding, as well as putting on a new PBR CAP SEAL! Now I read that the cylinder I picked "Protex" after being assured they were good, is not recomended as they have problems. SHIT AND F..UCK ME! Anyway you may have the same gremlin as me. If this new Protex cylinder is a fail, after I bash my head on the concrete floor, I will try for a rebuilt origonal unit worth a bazilion dollars. How the hell do brake parts that are new be crap? How do they make it into the country. On the subject the Protex unit i bought would not let the fitting screw in far enough to seal the lines. The thread in the master was not tapped deep enough and so the fittings had to be changed. Cut the lines and add in new different fittings on a short new piece with a union. Dont buy Protex would be my recomendation!

I have an EB 5LT (XR8 according to the ecu) in my 66 xr ute. Have spent a zillion dollars on a custom tank with holley retro module and 95% new lines and fittings. The only thing not replaced was the regulator and fuel rails?also injectors. Since getting it back on the road I Have found its surging even under a little bit of load. This is at worse when cold and almost gone when warmed.. Has anyone got some sugestions that may point to the problem or is it a merry go round of testing and replacing. Any help or advice is appreciated.

Rear cylinders are working perfect and not very old. Well i have made the decision on how to fix the paint.the diff leaks, the diff width, the engine and tailshaft angle, the bent axles, the squirting and leaking master cylinder, the corroded master fittings, the tailshaft vibration, the wipers not returning to home, the brakes pulling to the left, the shit paint job done, the wheels hitting the gards,the fuel pump priming the motor on accesories switch, the engine holding revs at idle, and the rattling exhast on the bumpers. I announced to the family in a text, that after owning this for six years and spending around 8k on fixing shit that was done wrong on the cheap but looked great, i am selling the worst car and worst ford, i have ever owned. I figure with NSW being the desert when it comes to automotive experts and shithouse at advice and help, also, parts and availability, that I sell the peace of shit and forget about fixing other peoples shocking workmanship. So, I will have 1 x 1966 custom XR ute leather upolstery, Ford Viper paint, 18 x 8.5 wheels ali hard lid, xr8 5lt and 4 sp auto, air, custom frenched gauges, momo wheel bla blah blah. Price to be advised...watch this soace... or not! Also thanks for the help and info.

Sparky Dave the thingy i described is for when either the front or rear brake lines loses preasure. It sits in a neutral position when both front and back brakes have preasure but if say the rears lose preasure the front brake preasure will force the litlle piston to move and so doing makes the brake fail switch turn on. The reverse happens if the front brakes lose preasure. It has preasure either end of it which keeps it from moving, then when it loses preasure at on end it is pushed to the on position. Simple. Just wondering if one of the 2 holes in the rear resrve are connect to that little piston. As i said one hole is rite above the brake fail piston and thats the one shooting fluid way into the air. Got an origonal newold stock cap seal on it but it still comes out around the ca I adges, even though the lid clip is as tight as.

Sparky Dave, the PBR master cylinders are unobtainium if new. PBR got bought out by Bosch who quicly stopped preducing any labelled PBR products. One on the net now NOS $880 or a referb to good quality fron $665 BUT! I think you have to supply a unit to them that is good enough to refurb! I was going to make sure about the O2 sensor quantity on the EB as I have been told 1 and also 2. I am after a second hand EB WORKSHOP MANUAL to help with my head scratching. I had a thought today that if the rear brake master piston seals fail does it force fluid up into the reserve? There are two holes in each reserve,front and rear brakes. The hole its pissing up through in the rear brake reserve is a tiny little hole at the front drivers side of the reserve. In fact looking at photos my reserve hole looks smaller than any others in the photos. Could these extra small holes in each reserve be where the fluid can go when a seal fails? In fact the hole looks to be to the side and directly over the little piston/plunger thingy for the brake fail switch. Hmmm. Any ideas you guys that know lots of stuff about brakes?

Thats interesting what you say about the O2 sensors. I had a conversation on this forum or another and was told we only have one on the v8. Mine is an EB motor possiby out of an XR8 but thats only going on the cpu numbers refered to a chart i found somewhere. Anyway mine has one. Its an NTK unit. Are EB only to have one CO2? Mines on the equalizer pipe. The rev hanging has allways been there in different degrees. Thats why a changed out the old Ford unit to try and fix it along with the TPS adjustment. It made it better but there still was a bit of hanging there, maybe normal. I have low faith in after market but ford wont even bother looking for EB parts. Also people who find a NOS "rare part" "cant find these anymore" want bullshite money for them. When i cleaned the after market AIC I also cleaned the old ford one but not confident its workin. Will look for a way to check/test it. For now I will move back onto the brake fluid squirting back up into the reserve, about 150mm into the air, that it keeps finding a way out of the master cylinder and is going everywhere on the underside of the unit and down onto the chasis rail lifting the paint off. Have found info from Aus, USA and UK with a dozen different ideas as to what it is. Anwhere from being normal to air in the lines to faulty unit to ??? I have allways had rear brake lock and added an adjustable preasure regulator but even wound mostly toward little rear bakes it will lock if being to quick onto the brakes. I jacked it and ran in gear and can see the axles must be bent slightly and figure this will cause the lock ups. Still gotta replace the after market master, its a got a large casted PR on the passenger side bottom sold at Grand atourer and thGT Shop to suit XB. have a chance to buy an origonal reconditiond PBR for $200 including 20 freight. Could try that and hope dont fail withis problem again.

Ok have done the following. Removed the MAF and cleaned it with MAF cleaner, removed the 02 sensor and cleaned it and soaked in carb/throtle body cleaner for 6 hours reinstalled with a tiny bit of antiseize on the thread. TPS, Checked the resistance on brown wire? and the base voltage 1.19? and max voltage 4.39 by measuring while slowly opening the throttle while the key was on ...green wire. AIC was removed and cleaned in carb cleaner but looked very good anyway. Vale operated smothly. This unit, Fuelmiser, was put in about 2-3K ago. It replaced a genuine unit. I took it for a run before i did the AIC and it seemed fixed as it had no more surging. The only thing i need to check now is if the idle has stedied. The cold start I did seemed to hold the revs up around 900 for five seconds then slowly returns to 650, a small quick touch of the throttle makes it hang the same way again at 900 the slow back to 650. Dont know if thats acseptable or not but wish it would drop straight to 600 or 650. Thanks for the info and i checked a lot on th net which also help confirm things. Thanks again for the help!

Ok NTK brand of injectors? Is that what you are talking about SPArKy_Dave ? Also i thought there was a sticker saying dont clean near the maf. What do ford recomend to clean it with. And also what is a AIC ? and where is it and the EGR ?

Ooops that O2 sensor.

Thank you?all for those bits of advice. I willstart at the ot sensor and try to find how to check it. Also can i use a certain cleaner to clean it first to see if it makes a difference?

Does any one know what the stock injectors are in the eb 5lt. Mine has an xr8 ecu which may indicate an xr8 motor also? I am concidering replacing the injectors as I have increased fuel use, sometimes poor starting and also surging. A set of new Bosch 42 lb 440cc ones are on EvilBay for $500. They also list the same part for the 4lt 6 falcon and otber holdens. Would these be the stock type of injectors or a small upgrade. I would concider a small upgrade but the bullshite electrickery computer and freinds may unleash a sunami of tech woes trying to adjust for the change. The motor is stock and may not benifit from bigger injectors if that what they are. PLEASE HELP

Oooops, had sensor overload. It was a indle speed sensor ai replaced. Still after that adjustment info for the throtle position sesnsor.

Mr Polson, you say TPI has an adjustment. I replaced mine a couple of years ago and would be interested in the adjustment. Mine is an EB 5LT XR8 motor.

I have now had it brake down at the doctors. Will wind over like a bastarxld but wont start. Sure wish it was a carb car. As it was parked for nearly 8 months while i got a custom tank and fuel lines I think maybe the reg may have a gut full of rust from those nasty ford steel rails. Do they do a kit that wont take too much modifying to replace the genuine rails and reg? I Would at minimum clean the rails and replace the reg. Any sugestions for brands of regs or rails?

hi, been trying to find information with pictures on how to fix my wipers park position. When i turn them off they allways stop 80mm from where they should park. I have the arms located so they wipe to the bottom and to the side of the screen but they just dont park correctly. Any help would be great. $495 for a rebuild sounds out of the question for now!

I have tried to find UTUBE vids but the only park stuff is for other vehicles and they are just re fitting the wipers to different spots. Mine parks way before it gets to the end of the downward stroke. So if i move the blades to the botton once the motor has "parked"when i turn the wipers back on ot wants to wipe downwards a good 100mm befor starting to go back upwards. It has to be internal and to do with what trigers the motor to stop and park that needs some sort of adjustment or reset! If anyone knows if its safe to pull apart let me know how as a full reco is $600 plus! Shheeeiiit!

Deankfx, thanks mate. Yep I turn electrical stuff into smoke and broken bits you cant buy. Hope i can make the rite decision to either pull it apart or just put up with it.

Further to what i have just said, after cleaning some crap and overspray paint off the arm where it connects to the motor unit, it turns out it may be on a sline as it now looks round not oval. Just have to hope the wD40 gets in enough to let me pry it off!

I think that as the blades go close to both the bottom and side trims that clocking the arm on the motor would move the blade too close, or even hiting one trim and moving the other too far away. Its wiping perfect but parks wrong. I have pulled the wiper unit (Preslite) out and have found the arm on the motor is not on a spline which would make it easy to clock it the the correct position. What it has is a flat sided oval shape that locates it in two possible positions 180 degrees apart. If i swap that around it would put the wipers in upward position. I tried a wiper reconditioner in Qld but he was not willing to give info. I would like to know where and how the park position switch is and if i can tweek it. Any help appreciated

Yes I see what ya sayin but when it wipes it goes to the correct positions , down close to the bottom stainless trim and then over to the side trim. Al looks good but when i turn off the wipers they return to a position h about 80mm to 100mm hi above the botom trim? Think something internal needs adjusting or cleaning?