burnnotice1000

Ok i beefed it up even more with ford dark blue on the manifold ,now looks more muscle car era imo and ahh my lovley balancer came up good

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Yeah, clear coat it bro. If you have a fuel drip, it will eat the paint off, clear seems to last a bit longer. Easier to wipe clean too.

pictures dont give it justice ,it looks rough but its not just the camera

Pic

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Well 3 coats and looks ok to me just thinking about clear coating it now ?

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I blasted again and 1 degrease and looking ok but got the alloy paint lets see what it comes up like

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Mag wheel cleaner might have done the trick too, but that's getting hard to find now as most (if not all) wheels come clear coated now.

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I blasted again and 1 degrease and looking ok but got the alloy paint lets see what it comes up like

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i went back to the shop and bought a alloy finsh paint like this guy does,i think it will be the best option atm ,he didnt have any acid type cleaner .
 

Ali always oxidizes mate, hence the dull finish. Now you have all the crap off it, hit it with that phosphorous acid based cleaner, give it a few sprays and scrubs and watch it shine.
Just don't let the acid dry out on the manifold will make run marks etc.
Spray bottle, wait 10 minutes, scrub with clean brush, hose off.
Do that 3-4 times and it will be sweet.
 
Brass wheel will work but it beats the texture down.
Go the acid mate and never look back.
 
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Maybe try some garnet?

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I just blasted some parts and glass blasted the manifold once but it came up ok but not to what i want ,i want it looking a million dollars not average i also painted the balancer ford dark blue and it looks mean

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Looking good Chestnut.
Got to love a Big bore Ford V8.

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On to the 2nd head now should all be done soon

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On to the 2nd head now should all be done soon

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On to the 2nd head now should all be done soon

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ok turns out the springs are std and wouldnt support any type of decent cam without buying bigger springs,but fine with std cam.

I dont know why it gave my old e mail address after the site has been offline for a few days

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Arr yeah i forgot i dropped the block off at the machine shop and the crank needs a mill to 020 also the block needs 1 sleeve as i found a hole in the bore but seems to be from casting not piston or rust in the jacket but for $200 he can sleve the m/f

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I dont know why it gave my old e mail address after the site has been offline for a few days

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burnnotice1000 .. new member 

Arr yeah i forgot i dropped the block off at the machine shop and the crank needs a mill to 020 also the block needs 1 sleeve as i found a hole in the bore but seems to be from casting not piston or rust in the jacket but for $200 he can sleve the m/f

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I don't think Ford would've liked to assemble engines locally that they're not familiar with just to put their own heads in them, and a very small number too. Not even sure if Ford Oz even imported them or if they just came here in various US import cars.

I think all 400s that made it here would have come as complete engines, and those heads you have were likely fitted at a later date... Don't forget, there's nearly 50 years for that to have happened throughout the engines life now.

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I can't find any decent info on when we stopped importing blocks and started making them here. I know any 302C had at least Aussie heads from the start as they're all closed 2Vs.

But any part number starting with "AR" is Aussie as it stands for "Australian Revision", then the US part number on which it was based comes after that.

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