jca25

Hey jack I ended up putting it behind the shock tower where the charcoal cannister normally goes it's still seen but make it still neat in that spot. I'm thinking of changing the washer bottle and putting the fuel pump and reg beside the washer bottle will put a pic up later

Don't need them quite THAT deep.!!!
 

No my MSD is in the glove box.Dont read into it just think what you see when you open the glove box.They all come with rubber mount kits aswell.
 
There were broken by a balancer on 1 and a pully on the 2nd. Lol fuck em cos there both knobs.

Plenty of moving air for sure...

Yeah good point sly but under the washer bottle would have good airflow (from the gap down the side of the radiator). I've never touched it after driving but I'll try and remember next time

I would argue the car cabin is ALOT cooler than any engine bay if it's moving or not. Jase Stoodley has data of the intake temps @ the finish line and its above cabin temps and his intake is via the front of the car and sealed. I think MSD are trying to cover them selves there from some mong suing em in the event of failure IMO.       
 
That said have you ever touched your MSD and found it hot to touch ?

Thanks jack, the engine is in it has all the power steer and that is on for mock up so i could work out the few things like MSD mounting 
Under stand where you are getting at slydog but dont really want this big red box hanging out the dash as i take it u are talking bout the spot above the glove box for mounting it. What was the reason behide them breaking the MSD in that spot
 
I was thinking the same with it after reading the instructions how hot do they get do you know?
 
Thanks ash

Here's where me and Jack ended up mounting my msd.

I did mine that way simply so I could use the supplied wiring without needing any more joins. The only extra I needed was battery 12v + & -
 
The instructions recommend that you mount it in a well-vented spot. I read up a lot about this very issue and found that glovebox mounting wasnt necessary and not recommended by the manufacturer due to cooling issues. But each to their own really, whatever works.
 
My take is that they made it with a finned alloy case for a reason: to shed heat.

My old man has his under the dash in his a model, it's been there for over 10 years and never had an issue with it

Did they rubber mount the msd Sly? Vibration is their biggest enemy.
Vibrations crack cuircut boards.
 
In a show car Im not sure.
If you want to hide all the wiring in the bay maybe inside is the go.
If you want to show off all the bits, in the bay.
 
Jack

TBH mine is in the glove box area just like a Nascar and I have zero issues and the benift is the better environment for the box to live in.
 
I know longer wires mean more resistance but if it can fire my engine that spins to 7500 without issue I doubt it would have any effect on any other.I think too often people over think the situation for zero gain TBH as the difference is less than 1mtr and the trigger needs .9 volts to work and the box needs no less than 9 volts and thats the important one.I get 13.6 volts @ 1500rpm in the cab so by 2000 or so I'd be pulling a full 14.4 volts and been doing so for years.
 
Now the 2 guys I know who have had there MSD in that spot have both broken the MSD from it been there too.  

I agree with gerg, jca.
We mounted Ash's bogan ute msd under washer bottles on xf.
There is a panel that runs at a nice angle below there and makes for a tidy install.
 
To be honest wait until motor is in and accesories are on it then work around that.
The msds have a coated cuircut board for water protection. Think the most important thing is the wiring. I loom all my wiring separately for the msd and we mounted it where it is because it's closest point to dizzy.
Like all wiring, the longer the run, the more resistance is created, so keep it short.
Ash's is for a crossy but seen as the dizzy on Ford V8's is at the front as well it will be fine.
Jack.

Have to be careful about signal noise from other wires near the trigger circuit. The coil wires need to be separate from them too, otherwise it may self-trigger. Keep runs as short as you can. I run mine under the washer bottle and a bit forward of it, away from passenger side exhaust (clevo). I've hit deep puddles and it's never missed a beat. They're supposed to be reasonably water-resistant (off-road racers use them a lot).

Well I manned up put some latex gloves on and went rummaging through the ute tonight. Apart from 2 pairs of shoes,  some more female underwear and feminine hygiene products I stumbled across the lock nut key THANK FUCK. It was actually up under the seat and I only felt it with the back of my hand as I feeling around. Doesn't matter all good I can get the wheels changed over now

Cool thanks mate

Yea they will work you can get them in a few sizes, i've used them on a few of the lock nuts

These are brilliant! I got some off the Wurth rep after I tested his sample one on a high tensile bolt with a rattle gun, just screwed the head off. 

So this must mean the use of a high flow oil pump then
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
BHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

Interesting.
Do you install the relays in the door frame, ?
 
I like the drawing, even i can understand it. When God handed out the electrical modules for humans, I was chatting up this hot as Angel, and must have missed out. Thats why I play with engines..

i tried the ef/l one only 2 bolts line up on the motor and the hole for the centre pin for the drive cog needs to be drilled out as it is larger 

Exhaust shop do that in 30 minutes, or if ya changing shit, do it later. Half arsed jobs always come back and bite ya on the arse.
 
Jack.

Really well said here. Take pics or video as you go along so you have a reference to go back to when your putting it back together.
You'll be fine, just go easy and take your time.

Its not as bad as every1 thinks main thing is take your time pulling the dash out and putting back in so you make sure you get all the bolts so you don't break any of the dash as they are getting harder to find in gc so they don't rattle 

Here is a bit of a rundown on the replacement of the heater core. It was done on an XD so could change slightly between models. I didn't take the photos when i pulled it apart so these are only when it was put back in.
 

All the screws around the outside need to be undone. It is also stuck together with a sicaflex type glue.
 

 
This is the inside of the heater box, there is normally an air con evaporator on the rhs but im not running air con any more so its been pulled out. The heater core just pulls out of the box
 

 
The insulator rubber just slips off and on over the top
 

 

 
Note the one pipe that has the curve in it. It needs to go to the top of the heater box when put back in.
 

 
While you have it apart you might as well refoam the flaps. I used a 10mm square that i got from spotlight with a spray on glue
 

When putting it all back together just use a bead of silicone to seal it