Seamus

Cheers@Seamus

And@deankxf ill take plenty of pictures taking it out and apart as a walk through.
Planning to upgrade the globes within the cluster for the backlight and warnings too


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Definitely pull it out and open it up.

If I'm honest, I was a bit anxious about pulling it apart. However, it was much easier than I anticipated, and it was quite easy to see the problems.



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Definitely pull it out and open it up.

If I'm honest, I was a bit anxious about pulling it apart. However, it was much easier than I anticipated, and it was quite easy to see the problems.



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@Seamus just fixed his with My guidance in his thread.  
check out this page on his thread, (toot toot chugga chugga big red car)
feel free to make a how to thread out of all the info and i'll make it a sticky (i don't have time, but basically everything is covered in that link including bad solder joints likely with yours as ZKFAIRLANE mentions in there 
 
 

Well, I'm farkin bored shirtless with the XP build, still haven't got rego, but, sat looking at the inline 6 doorstop on the pallet, and thought to myself, "...wonder what that looks like inside..." ..."wonder if it still runs.." ...... So, bit the bullet and started stripping it down. Should have taken more pics, but, wasn't planning to rebuild this thing, but, it may help with my rego (original style engine and all that).
Seems like it's a 170 wide block,  3 freeze plugs, 4 mains, last oil change was done by Noah, after he finished servicing the Ark. The oil was so bad, that I actually picked up about 2 litres in my hand and placed it in the bin.!  It was jelly.  The oil pick up left a perfect imprint in it. ........and the smell was pure joy. 
 
The tower of power..
 
I KNOW...!!!  Look at that single barrel throat size. Roughly the same diameter as a 20c coin. 
 
The valve train was absolutely disgusting. Thick, solid, burnt and dried out oil from the last century. I didn't get any photos, as I was just going to play with this little engine, and then use it to stop the door from banging in the wind. After spending approximately 3 hours with a stiff brush, some thinners, and 4 or 5 cold snacks, I got it resemble an engine again.
 
Wish I had taken more pics of the gloop, it was the worst I've had to deal with. I've had stinky oil in a sump before, but never been able to pick it up in one piece...
 
Pulled the timing cover off, nothing to see here, just a well worn Morse chain. Pulled the head off, they weigh a few kilos.!  Checked all the cylinders after I dug the soot and carbon off the pistons. 
 
 
Stock cyl is 3.500" so, I reckon its a 60 thou overbore. Ooooh.....that piston doesn't look too good.
 
 
Yeah, after a little Scotchbrite action, something has been having a game of pinball in there....
 
Pull the lifters out with a magnet they say, it'll be fine, they said.......  2 hours later, got 'em all out. Lots of Acetone to break the varnish, and some up and down workout, they slowly came free. 
Some of the jelly oil was wrapped around the centre section, but, thinners, Scotchy, numbered and set aside......
 
 
Where to now..???   Well, I'll pull the pistons, check for cyl scoring, ring condition, big end bearings, Mains etc and make a more informed decision on the refresh. It's not going to be a rebuild, as I'm not willing to buy pistons, lifters, pushrods etc... if it's junk, so be it. I'm going the Windsor route anyhows.  If it's saveable, I'll give it a hone, new rings and bearings, and a set of gaskets, and see if it runs.!   Might even stick it in the XP, and drive it around the block for sheets and giggles.  Oh wait, got no wheels,....or suspension, or diff, or a single nut or bolt on the car.  
 
To be continued....

Did this on the XB, was easy and well worth it.  1.3 hp from memory, (original was around 1 hp), lighter, 1/3 of the price of a clapper, Solenoid is clocked better for clearance, although make sure the big cable is pointing upwards, like Greg's, otherwise it will touch the drag link. Ask me how I know..... 

Header clearance



Drag link/pitman arm



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Reasons why you'd do this:
- Cheap and easy to get (roughly
$110 from Ripco trade)
- Extra clearance to headers
- Easier, lighter to fit/remove
- Mod is easy... Just need 9.5mm drill and a hacksaw. Die grinder optional if you want it pretty.
 
Downsides:
- You have to do this mod to every one, or swap housings over from old to new.
- You will screw your warranty before even bolting it on (if brand new of course)
- Clearance to the pitman arm/drag link is very tight once installed.
- Starter cable may or may not reach (solenoid sits pointing down, not sideways).
- You get a pissy whizzing sound like a 4 cylinder, not the good old solid "chunk-whirr" like the direct drive Bosch one. Just doesn't suit an old V8.
 
Anyway....
 
Drill out 8mm holes to 9.5 (3/8")
 

 
Mark out where you aim to cut. On the genuine Bosch ones, they had double the amount of ribs and you cut back the first rib all the way to the second.... so on this one (OEX) I would only go halfway to the next one.
 

 
Front view
 

 
Roughed out with the hackasaurus
(Note: I've marked the cut a bit further down to make it a smooth radius to the face).

 
Carved out with a die grinder and half-round file:
 

 
Top view:
 
You really don't need to remove any material below the "at rest" position of the pinion. The amount removed with the hacksaw will suffice. I just made it all look pretty because it was like carving butter with the die grinder on this soft alloy, took no time at all.
 
Pics to come of it installed (showing clearance to pitman arm).
 
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Mainly US and EU spec's I believe, but some may apply to Australian Vehicles?
 
https://www.oilspecifications.org/ford.php?fbclid=IwAR2oDSFk-zD91i47yM0ygo7nm1xE22BZU9t7l63wBeXTHVlqr0Zoc5Oi3hk
 

You begin the spark early - BTDC (before top dead center).
How early is based on fuel type (petrol/LPG flame propagation time) engine rpm, combustion chamber and piston design.
So we light the fuse early, the flame spreads for a while, and by the time peak cylinder pressure occurs, your crank is around 12 ATDC (after top dead center).
 
If peak pressure occurred any earlier than that, it would be like a sledgehammer driving the rod into the crank straight down.
By peaking after TDC, the rod acts like a lever instead of a railroad spike.
 
 

The wheels, I really like though!
 
edit -
what about doing the van, in a rat-rod theme?
satin black, widened red Lotus Cortina GT steel wheels/stock dog dish hub caps/whitewalls,
 
and some cool 50's pinstriping and business logo writing on the sides in bronze/gold/silver?
 

Saw this somewhere on the Interwebs the other day.

But just read you don't like the bubble guards. Not sure about the lights on the front of this one either.

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Ok my 2 Bob....

I loved the brutal simplicity of straight gas on my Cortina. It started first bump of the key, summer, winter, frost, rain, heatwave, typhoon, it just worked. It ran very clean, so much so that my mate thought there was something wrong with his Bosch analyser when we hooked it up, such were the HC and CO levels.

The reason why exhaust valves burn out is because people run them on a petrol tune, effectively retarding the ignition for LPG so the fuel is still burning out the exhaust, which runs everything hot. Fix this and the engine should live a long, happy life.

One upgrade that shouldn't be too hard to do is an electronic ignition. I'm sure somebody in the UK is more than willing to sell you one for a reasonable amount. Gas likes a nice powerful spark.

An Impco model 100 should be more than enough to feed it. They're apparently good for around 90kW. The 2.0 pinto was rated at 74 from memory.

A word about engineering: the Mk 1 Escort wasn't available with a 2.0 so it would need an engineer's cert to fit. Not so difficult in practical terms (just use Mk2 bits) but another expense to consider.

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Yeah she'll be a fun build. There is some big fabrication needed in areas and I might try to throw in a little custom work as well for good measure. I'm pretty sure I'll be keeping the rear windows, might tint them a bit but I like being able to see all the wankers on the road around me before they drive through me.

How's this for a giggle.. I drew this sketch a number of years ago. OK it's a mini not an esky, but I may have a type...

You were not kidding about it being a little rusty!

Regarding engine swaps, there is a lot of good idea's here, but at the end of the day it is your project and you've gotta do what suits your needs and what will make you happy.

Will you be keeping the rear side windows or filling them in?

The condition of this, looks like so many vehicles I have looked at in the past and said to myself, "I wish I had the skills, know how and the confidence, to fix this" but never felt that I could do it. So I am genuinely excited to see the tutorial videos and how this progresses. Hopefully I can learn something (probably lots) and build up the confidence to tackle something like this myself one day.

For now I'll try and keep up with the other things you've got going on in your shop.


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You were not kidding about it being a little rusty!

Regarding engine swaps, there is a lot of good idea's here, but at the end of the day it is your project and you've gotta do what suits your needs and what will make you happy.

Will you be keeping the rear side windows or filling them in?

The condition of this, looks like so many vehicles I have looked at in the past and said to myself, "I wish I had the skills, know how and the confidence, to fix this" but never felt that I could do it. So I am genuinely excited to see the tutorial videos and how this progresses. Hopefully I can learn something (probably lots) and build up the confidence to tackle something like this myself one day.

For now I'll try and keep up with the other things you've got going on in your shop.


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http://www.retro-ford.co.uk/shop/content/fitting-zetec-mk-12-escort-type-9-gearbox
http://www.chestersportscars.co.nf/ford-conversions/services.htm
 
1.8ltr Ford Focus Zetec engine in a Mk1 Escort -

If they use the same gearbox then that could be an easy upgrade if I stick with the 1.3 to start.

Guys, my motto could probably be "I chase rust, not horsepower"... Maybe I should get that on a shirt?

Simple is good right now. The 1300 is there already but unknown if it's usable. I have been casually looking around to see if any pintos are advertised but apart from one in a basket case that was missing parts, I haven't seen any yet.

It's really all academic at this stage. Gotta make some of the rust disappear before a motor matters. I think at this point in the discussion, the general plan is for this car to be fixed up and put back on the road as a work van. A bit of a rolling advertisement I guess. I'm not sure which should be done first though, escort or Fargo, but I think I can maybe get the escort done cheaper because of the barra conversion in the Fargo probably needs engineering.

I'd imagine Barra would be a head funk if you wanted it to be remotely legal.

Realistically a well built pinto and a decent auto is the easiest and probably cheapest way to go.
I've never known them to be remotely economical though, that big old weber loves a drink. Never driven one on gas.
I went from a mk5 sport to a xb Fairmont 302 back many years and my fuel costs barely changed haha.


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Not familiar with that one.

Not doing diesel of any kind so any of those ideas are out. Modern fuel injection engines are appealing but all I hear is dollars and engineering which is more dollars. With how many ks I do I really want to go straight gas because it just makes things cheaper on a daily basis. I love ignoring the "petrol cycle".

If we didn't live in the nanny country I'd probably consider a warm rover v8 in it just for the sound. Either that or the barra... But I'd want to just build that without having to comply with the rules of bureaucracy

While there is orange paint under the bonnet I'm 99% sure this was a white car and not a colour change. It's too consistent for a respray although it has had a blow over at some point because you can see acrylic primer peeking through the side panels.

Here we go, lots of pics