deankxf

5 minutes ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

i dont no,ive never had a AU,ive only ever changed xe and late xf ones before.

yeah he's asking about the XD  one, should be same as XE (late XF are e series type)

11 minutes ago, Nath said:

Ah, nope. That looks similar to the E series one I had hanging around but it's different to the XD one

paging @CHESTNUTXE @burnnotice1000 hows the accelerator pedal spring go?

32 minutes ago, Nath said:

Anyone happen to have a pic of how the spring is meant to sit at the back of the pedal? Looks like it's meant to be hooked onto the pin and the stalk somehow but I can't figure it out for the life of me

is it like this (pic from ebay)

3 hours ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

At around $1,200.00 for a brand new copper/brass x-series radiator... your one is infinitely rebuildable.

 

Think like Grandad's axe -

end tanks can be un-soldered and the core cleaned out, (re-cored if needed) many times over.

Much MUCH cheaper than $1.2k.

how much is it to recore one? the core itelf is on ebay for the first time i've ever seen for $135 ish link to triple core

used reasonable ones should still be under $100 if you can find a wrecker

new copper brass in 3 core (2 core must be cheaper )  at $900 in the wide ones link to new copper brass 3 CORE

$200 odd for a new alloy one, not sure which alloy one is the peoples choice, but plenty of people are using them these days new alloy one

1 hour ago, Nato of Falcons said:

Huston... we have a problem... At this rate all the bolt ons and the radiator & Fuel pump are going to have to be scratched and new ones done.

 

I like learning and experiencing this engine but damn ive opened up a can of worms on this one fella's.

1 minute ago, Fingers said:

Not unusual, and not a huge problem

yeah it's not unusual.. BUT.

@Nato of Falcons 

from that VISUAL,

you may find the radiator is fine, just reverse flush it, and see if you can see water flowing through the tubes (alloy radiators are cheap at least)..

what you will likely find, or find out soon. is the welsh plugs are on their way out.(there's one behind the inlet manifold also ON the manifold)and one behind the flywheel. 

and. the biggest risk in my opinion, is the water pump if it's got the steel fan type (genuine ford had a cast iron impeller that would last longer than the seal at least) anyway, the fan blades can rust away.  
AND, the other risk is rusted bolts in the block from the water pump. 


all good learning stuff. not fun for new players. 
but. the XF is THE BEST CAR FOR LEARNING.. 

one of the easiest things to work on this side of a gemini.

26 minutes ago, Nato of Falcons said:

So I had to hook the bottle back up and it had to feed down toward the engine, the fuel pump cant suck up enough if I sit the bottle underneath it.

 

Im thinking its the fuel pump hey?

 

I have to fix up a coolant line because it busted itself while I was testing.

better the coolant issue now than cooking an engine later.

this is why i recommend changing all hoses on a "barn find" the cast alloy fittings in the manifold can go crusty is this what broke? i bypassed the manifold coolant flow on one of my cars for this reason, but also another car due to a welsh plug rusted out on the back side of one. 

sounds like the pump is weak, it could be full of crud. i'd be inclined to run the engine wherever the bottle works for a bit and see if fresh fuel cleans up that issue. 

1 hour ago, Nato of Falcons said:

So I blew a bunch of old gas out of the line and some laquery kind of brown stuff but its flowing now.

 

The problem is now it doesnt seem to be draggin up the fuel, im thinking the module in the fuel tank might be busted or perhaps a fuse/electrical part might not be working? Do these have a controller on them?

that laquery goop is what old fuel does when it goes rancid(or crusty crystals with the recent fuels)

the tank pick up has a plastic screen on it that can plug up with the same gunk.  there's nothing in it after that, just a pipe. 

i'd also check it still pulls from  the bottle so you can confirm it's not blocked from goop since initially running.  

did you have a filter in the system for the bottle setup? 

i'd pull the tank sender/pick up out and have a look again. 

BARN FIND ADDS VALUE ... NOT! (maybe if you like working on crusty fuel lines, brake lines, perished rubber everything.) 

there's also hose leak  potential (sucking air) from rusty metal lines and or other rubber sections to the tank.  

really need to treat it as 5 different sections now and rule out any issues in each one

33 minutes ago, Nath said:

Hmm, okay that makes me wonder then. I tried refitting the auto console and it went in easily so I guess it's possible the dash is misaligned.

 

The manual one needs to come forward a bit more but it just won't, plus it's unstable. If I line the screws up as best I can with the holes, the shifter doesn't have enough clearance.

 

It's weird, I've made a blanking plate to block off part of the shifter hole in the auto console as that worked fine so just gonna see how I go with that, might be the simplest fix.

 

 

if the car never had the fancy console, or rear air vents (col shift or the base model console) the hole for the rear air vents needed cutting out of the dash/heater box area for it from memory (i had to block this when i used an XE ghia dash in My XE ute) 

2 hours ago, ZKFairlane said:

Seems odd that it won't work for you.

 

We put an EL T5 into the son's XF and all we did was swap the auto section for a manual one in the console.  We didn't have to modify it or the lever for the T5 to work.

 

Is the console seating properly into the dash?  I now I had a hell of a time getting ours to fit properly as I'd somehow mis aligned the dash and it wouldn't let the console go all the way in.

if the car never had the fancy console, (col shift or the base model console) the hole for the rear air vents needed cutting out of the dash/heater box area for it from memory (i had to block this when i used an XE ghia dash in My XE ute) 

19 minutes ago, ZKFairlane said:

This is the metal ring that XD's had.  This was for a borgie 4 speed.  As deankxf mentioned earlier, it's riveted on.

.

thats the XE XF type they actually cover up an auto hole (its what i've always had on mine until i used an EB console in the XF ute

removing that rubber bush in the shifter also makes the feel 100% better.(in My opinion)

19 minutes ago, Nath said:

This is a five speed from an E series, not the stock single rail so not sure if it needs help to fit

what i did with those shifters (need to be a bit handy) is delete that rubber bush thing.  (from memory i rounded off flanged nuts and inverted them as a metal bush with thread inside and then did bolts up)

that may give you the space you need also. 

i can't remember what XDs had to hold the boot on, but XE/XF had a big ugly rubber boot that slipped over a metal ring pop riveted on the top of the console

seems to be trimmed in other cloth if you had a commodore (different seller, but looks same seat)

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/403786408853?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D247549%26meid%3D1c9e6f453f194700bef969d20f647fb1%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D204311294271%26itm%3D403786408853%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithLambda85KnnRecallV1V4V6ItemNrtInQueryAndCassiniVisualRankerAndBertRecallCPCBlended%26brand%3DAutotecnica&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A4037864088531c9e6f453f194700bef969d20f647fb1|enc%3AAQAIAAABcClE7Rni7LPdZba0E4PpnN9sqdNIfzrngjJmhUj%2BPVGabI8X4okIddREUp4Q0zc2AzeQ%2BYWQSxoBqGa9J%2Bx35NrBHVFYUVGsflNyHmFJfvouFhcLtSal3PrT8uqN34xP8tTkRtMZH%2Bjfqn4MA7rMqmpSiT%2BR7jeJUe7auwQDVf6PjsXLjVyEtnS3cfRiA32SdSb9tT7fP4FHk6%2BdeBoaCcx9JdviExejacBQb7ZQaVe1cK%2BFIR7Xzn6AiG8HkxuxY391xKacN0b6OB71qK02Kku9yOVHcrfTc3MKeI%2FDO2fcXHJwVyJ2ZFB8KHu2inry2OPLiCmA%2B0NNFsIY0IJLjwk%2BgyJUTHgpWrDrrY92Al%2Bk6Gv5nC8WsNYx6li%2BPrPvq7wjJopUaLU3aHiXgh1yw1hy6ksQRRVzBqhamRiApmSGGF1E3p%2BuZ9FRg56V%2BsxbekuHJbnR%2B%2FrMq%2BQR7XVHJXyqqYUv%2FFUtzD%2F246MgXOgQ|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2047675

6 minutes ago, Nath said:

Only problem is they don't do back ones so my interior would be mismatched and I don't know how comfy they are, they look a bit thin.

 

that curve shape in the top pic looks wrong (might be good if you spilled your coffee though)

@CHESTNUTXE shared fake ESP seats on ebay last week (autotechnica brand)  they may do them in different material that matches what you already have?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/204311294271?hash=item2f91e6f13f:g:UiIAAOSwvCdkQa9-:sc:AU_StandardDelivery!3153!AU!-1&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0Pje9Y6DSe36asz7ccFPa6xlORaw59wKQVPH6K53iMfyRhjlzcfP6gBdYZJi49T7VS0qEoMvbTVQI7egOVQUtxvFAJSdouNoGKC6%2FwyOvQ3x7CRP9FqHzFrqhEza8v2mLfBVu5JieeD4HrmsHxFzPFMbKuZQM1R5PwJ35d%2FLqqlhjX5pk2Krh3NiIUTveMFT%2BpBAfjTGp2wp6JOKtKpHBzxZwL9k0edtBR%2FYJaokgBkCMtsWEw0niBJKp1GJgvNzo6owPzPFYF6MhqqZcIaT1lI%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR67y97f1YQ

9 hours ago, Nath said:

I know upholstery costs a kidney

very labour intensive,

if it's a bucket seat, you may be better off finding a good matching left one and swapping the trim over to it. 

there's a video Peter Anderson did that's fairly general for seat trim removal (headrests on XD-XF need the seat trim 90% removed before you can access the clips for the headrests * heat them before bending the clips with hair dryer at min)

the falcon seats have a lot more hog rings/netting clips and a pain in the ass winder holding clip. but a motor trimmer might NOT charge HEAPS to swap the left seat trim to drivers side (bonus is the foams/springs can be swapped repaired in the process)

12 hours ago, Fingers said:

I would check the adjustment first

@Searley this is possible (likely) if the bushes/gates in the gearshift assy are a bit worn. 

definitely worth checking.  

22 minutes ago, Searley said:

Hello Fordys, My XH Ute sometimes won't start straight up sometimes and I find that pulling in the column shift lever and moveing it up & down Will Engage the Starter and it will start. I've heard that this is"The Inhibitor Switch" located off the side of the Auto Trans. Does it mean it needs cleaning or is it advised to get a New One? Thanks Have a Great Day,

if you couldn't find a new one you could probably remove it and submerge it in kero/petrol etc and rotate it through the range several times and it would probably be fixed.

also, if you were anything like Me, you'd just go park to 1st back and forth like 50 times and it may be fixed (or worse)

but i don't think the are serviceable if anything like the prior models , so buy either a used one or new one if available and likely last another 25yrs

2 minutes ago, dex said:

Had a mate with an xf that had been converted from auto to 5 speed ,,

 

I've had quite a few with that combo, 2.77 or 2.92 diff with T5

had the XE ute smoking the clutch on a hill start in reverse with 2 motorbikes and heap of firewood scattered between/around them.. (was fine still, that was a heavy duty clutch i always chose thought, 30% heavier than stock so not to crack the pedal box/firewall etc)

10 minutes ago, Nato of Falcons said:

Yeah def a good tip, I threw a few bug bombs in there a few weeks ago and they must have come back, got me on the leg and I tell you what, the itchiness was insane and yeah just had a bit of a nap haha all good just got real tired no life and death. Ill be on the lookout though a bit more now.

itchy sounds like Bullant or Wasp or white tail spider.  redback = PAIN.. and lots of it.  

11 minutes ago, Nato of Falcons said:

Sorry ive been sick (bit by a spider and it really rocked me hahha)

got to watch out for redbacks working on old cars, 
 

My cars have them from sitting a long time, definitely get the surface spray out if it was from the car.  and also a flea bomb type (i've had them in the air vents, in the wiper plenum, under the mudgaurds and bumpers (places you reach into to undo stuff)

tip for redbacks, the web is STRONG, if you are brushing a web with a screwdriver and the web seems strong, it's likely a redback so go to town with the spray ( 2 people i've met had been bitten by them working on cars, one needed the hospital) 

3 hours ago, BTS666 said:

Wish SSS would re make the xf tail lights. 

@thorne

would "Mr Car Parts " have aftermarket XF tail lights?
 

On 12/12/2022 at 7:09 PM, thorne said:

a wreakers yard in Broadmeadows (Mr. Car Parts, Blair Street, Broadmeadows, ask for Freddy, good bloke).

1 hour ago, burnnotice1000 said:

here it is ladies and gentlemen the 2.53 borgy,

OMG!!!!

that's got to be stickied, plastered all over the interwebs and facebook groups

IMAGINE that ratio with a 6cyl single rail, with a clevo, wouldn't need overdrive  and the 351 torque would pull away in 1st gear like it's nothing

27 minutes ago, omgwizards said:

How did it go? I'll probably be in a similar situation soon (Crossflow with carby - works fine when using a jerry can, but soon to be reconnecting gas tank)

 

So I'm thinking, try a fuel pressure gauge at various places along the line. A working fuel pump provides 24 - 35 kPa at idle. Between the fuel tank and the fuel pump there needs to be negative pressure. If there is a leak or a blockage you'll see a change in pressure on either side.

 

if you are handy you can try some whipper snipper cord into the fuel line, if its' free it should go a fair way on the straight runs (not sure on the bends) 

the blockages i had were close to the pipe ends within 50cm from the ends at least

on the cars i've fitted them to (column shift to floor shift conversion) i've used silastic and fat headed self tappers. 

the factory used a self tapper hex head screw with a flange on it and probably mastic (goopy stuff) to seal to the floor 

i think as long as you've sealed it and secured it properly it's fine (a mate used riv nuts and bolts)

34 minutes ago, Nato of Falcons said:

Deano coming back to help me again, much appreciated,

you'll need to rely on @SPArKy_Dave in 12 days time, I'm taking a break for an unknown time. few other members on the ball but many have been slowly stepping back also. 
the information is here, and you'd probably read about fuel line blockage in the gregorys manual also