ando76

When I shut down my race engine, like it is at the moment, I put heaps in.  To the point that when you wind it over and it comes to tdc it comes out the plug hole. Of course you MUST put a notation on the engine that you have done this so that when it comes to firing it, you remove the plugs first and wind her over to get rid of all the excess oil. 
You might not want to go to that extent so just strike a happy medium 

Clevo intakes cut down, chev exhausts cut down. 

Went back to the flow bench today with a new port and chamber design. It was based on the stuff we learnt from doing the last 3 test ports, you know the ones that caused all the conjecture.
Anyway I had a c1 head sitting here that had stainless ferrea valves (1.84&1.5) and all the guides and seats done. It just needed porting. I've had it for years and decided now was the time.
Here are the results. Pretty damn impressive I must say, especially considering how small the valve is. Then have a look at the port window, yep it's stock. ZERO welding or bogging done to the port. None.

Before the naysayers and the like ask, no I'm not sharing what the x section is, nor the chamber shape. Please keep in mind (as I've said numerous times) Anthony's bench flows 10cfm below name benches. That's 243cfm of flow through a 1.84 valve and a stock port window!!! Smallest port doing the biggest job. Look at the mid lift figures. Solid as a rock.
p.s. Please ignore the valve size on the test sheet. Anthony didn't change it. 




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Went back to the flow bench today with a new port and chamber design. It was based on the stuff we learnt from doing the last 3 test ports, you know the ones that caused all the conjecture.
Anyway I had a c1 head sitting here that had stainless ferrea valves (1.84&1.5) and all the guides and seats done. It just needed porting. I've had it for years and decided now was the time.
Here are the results. Pretty damn impressive I must say, especially considering how small the valve is. Then have a look at the port window, yep it's stock. ZERO welding or bogging done to the port. None.

Before the naysayers and the like ask, no I'm not sharing what the x section is, nor the chamber shape. Please keep in mind (as I've said numerous times) Anthony's bench flows 10cfm below name benches. That's 243cfm of flow through a 1.84 valve and a stock port window!!! Smallest port doing the biggest job. Look at the mid lift figures. Solid as a rock.
p.s. Please ignore the valve size on the test sheet. Anthony didn't change it. 




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Went back to the flow bench today with a new port and chamber design. It was based on the stuff we learnt from doing the last 3 test ports, you know the ones that caused all the conjecture.
Anyway I had a c1 head sitting here that had stainless ferrea valves (1.84&1.5) and all the guides and seats done. It just needed porting. I've had it for years and decided now was the time.
Here are the results. Pretty damn impressive I must say, especially considering how small the valve is. Then have a look at the port window, yep it's stock. ZERO welding or bogging done to the port. None.

Before the naysayers and the like ask, no I'm not sharing what the x section is, nor the chamber shape. Please keep in mind (as I've said numerous times) Anthony's bench flows 10cfm below name benches. That's 243cfm of flow through a 1.84 valve and a stock port window!!! Smallest port doing the biggest job. Look at the mid lift figures. Solid as a rock.
p.s. Please ignore the valve size on the test sheet. Anthony didn't change it. 




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Carefully grab them with one hand - throw them in the nearest bin. Get Felpro 302W Neo seal.  Knock out rope seal retaining spike from cap, install Neo seal as per instructions inside Felpro packet - live happily ever after with an engine that doesn't leak and doesn't have parasitic drag loss from a crap rope seal. 
THE END 

Carefully grab them with one hand - throw them in the nearest bin. Get Felpro 302W Neo seal.  Knock out rope seal retaining spike from cap, install Neo seal as per instructions inside Felpro packet - live happily ever after with an engine that doesn't leak and doesn't have parasitic drag loss from a crap rope seal. 
THE END 

Carefully grab them with one hand - throw them in the nearest bin. Get Felpro 302W Neo seal.  Knock out rope seal retaining spike from cap, install Neo seal as per instructions inside Felpro packet - live happily ever after with an engine that doesn't leak and doesn't have parasitic drag loss from a crap rope seal. 
THE END 

And why would you be worried about using them? 

Carefully grab them with one hand - throw them in the nearest bin. Get Felpro 302W Neo seal.  Knock out rope seal retaining spike from cap, install Neo seal as per instructions inside Felpro packet - live happily ever after with an engine that doesn't leak and doesn't have parasitic drag loss from a crap rope seal. 
THE END 

Carefully grab them with one hand - throw them in the nearest bin. Get Felpro 302W Neo seal.  Knock out rope seal retaining spike from cap, install Neo seal as per instructions inside Felpro packet - live happily ever after with an engine that doesn't leak and doesn't have parasitic drag loss from a crap rope seal. 
THE END 

Carefully grab them with one hand - throw them in the nearest bin. Get Felpro 302W Neo seal.  Knock out rope seal retaining spike from cap, install Neo seal as per instructions inside Felpro packet - live happily ever after with an engine that doesn't leak and doesn't have parasitic drag loss from a crap rope seal. 
THE END 

Carefully grab them with one hand - throw them in the nearest bin. Get Felpro 302W Neo seal.  Knock out rope seal retaining spike from cap, install Neo seal as per instructions inside Felpro packet - live happily ever after with an engine that doesn't leak and doesn't have parasitic drag loss from a crap rope seal. 
THE END 

Carefully grab them with one hand - throw them in the nearest bin. Get Felpro 302W Neo seal.  Knock out rope seal retaining spike from cap, install Neo seal as per instructions inside Felpro packet - live happily ever after with an engine that doesn't leak and doesn't have parasitic drag loss from a crap rope seal. 
THE END 

And why would you be worried about using them? 

When I shut down my race engine, like it is at the moment, I put heaps in.  To the point that when you wind it over and it comes to tdc it comes out the plug hole. Of course you MUST put a notation on the engine that you have done this so that when it comes to firing it, you remove the plugs first and wind her over to get rid of all the excess oil. 
You might not want to go to that extent so just strike a happy medium 

Thanks for the offer man but I just did it myself. Only used about 100mls of oil over all six but it’s turning over with a ratchet on the pulley easy enough.


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Thanks guys, il get onto it this weekend. 

Yep, as above.  Sticker on the rocker cover to remind you.  5 squirts from an oil can down each bore, plugs out wind her over with the key 2 0r 3 revolutions.
 
and as Greg said, WD40 is porous. 
Poor as piss  bah ha ha ha ha

When I shut down my race engine, like it is at the moment, I put heaps in.  To the point that when you wind it over and it comes to tdc it comes out the plug hole. Of course you MUST put a notation on the engine that you have done this so that when it comes to firing it, you remove the plugs first and wind her over to get rid of all the excess oil. 
You might not want to go to that extent so just strike a happy medium 

When I shut down my race engine, like it is at the moment, I put heaps in.  To the point that when you wind it over and it comes to tdc it comes out the plug hole. Of course you MUST put a notation on the engine that you have done this so that when it comes to firing it, you remove the plugs first and wind her over to get rid of all the excess oil. 
You might not want to go to that extent so just strike a happy medium 

Diesel is good for unsticking engines. If it's just to keep everything lubed, bit of engine oil and turn her over. 

Diesel is good for unsticking engines. If it's just to keep everything lubed, bit of engine oil and turn her over. 

It is a crack.  Very common to have them crack there. It's not an issue tho and will work fine. 
If it is an unmachined c2 it should cc at 42cc, but could be less if it's had a hair cut.  No evidence of anyone laying the chamber walls back so I'd say it will be 42cc or less. 

Dizzy/oil pump drives are all the same hex size but there is variance in length