SPArKy_Dave

Hey everyone!
 
Good news, im healthy again and workiing on cars.
 
In the time ive been away I have had my XF falcon' dash crack... Sad days.
 
Is  there anything I can do to fix this? I thought Id start here because you guys have been so helpful along the resto of this one. (ignore the filth its been like 6 months)
 
Thanks for that and I hope you are all doing really well hey.
 

Here's a comparison of the old (only less than 2 years old) mounts to new ones. The old ones folded severely at the bend. I don't know what caused this and I hope it doesn't happen again. The new ones are 0.5mm thicker so not very much.
 
Now that the new mounts are fitted I need to get the oil pan on and it is really fighting me but I'll get there.
 

 

 

 

custom fab is needed,and lots of money i threw 10k into a carby  engine and got 210 rwhp better tune would have seen maybe 240,most use the std barra turbo with good results,use std oil pump,no one makes large valves so ya have to turn down 2v clevo intakes and use chev 1.6 exhaust,you can throw 3k easy at a crossflow head to make that kind of power you are talking about,yes either ef crank or std 250 crank,another thing to consider is 3 or 4 bolt balancer ,i would start with a 84da block it has 1 piece rear main seal and larger flywheel bolts.

I have Pioneer 602257 mounts on their way now, I'll let you know if they look any better.

Transgold
https://www.maceengineering.co.nz/epages/macenz.sf/en_NZ/?ObjectPath=/Shops/macenz/Products/MNT836-D

Those new mounts look pretty bad, in comparison to ur originals.
The angle of the upper tabs, is way different!
 
What brand are they?
ie - Mackay, Kelpro etc

Choices seem to be the following -

Mackay - A1140
Kelpro - MT8095
Pioneer - 602257
Transgold - MNT836
 
I've also read, u can get new rubber vulcanised to the old metal pieces.

The USA Mustang saddles had rubber pads from factory I think.
It's a thing for some recent aftermarket spring saddles - suppliers source Chinese repro mustang parts probably?

Can u post a picture of the spring, and height that the vehicle is sitting at?
Also the bump-stop clearance.
 
That will let us help u more.

sometimes people put spring packers on top of the very low sets of springs just to raise them 5 or 10mm,the recess inside the tower sought of guides and holds the top of the spring into a comfortable position,but add a packer or nolathane spacer and it leaves the top of the spriing out of the groove so to say,and i hads this happen on my xf ute when i raised the low kings a cm and put bluepro spacers,the packer and spring moved somehow into an akward position and compleatly stuffed the spacer,just buy the right springs guys.yes like dean said low or super or ultra low will be able to turn and fix up but std i doubt it ,they are so high .

pedal fitted

ok 1 hyd pedal box ready to use

The original plastic piece is perfect length  for the brake pedal on the left,its just to the right of the pedal that you need to shim with washers or a small piece of plastic tube provided in the kit ,about 1cm but can very a few mm,i still need to shim about 1 or 2 mm to push it all together tighter,if thats what you mean kiwi-e.

do a few dummy fits to alighn the brake pedal with the sensor,you will also need to shim about 1cm with the plastic provided in the kit as the new rod provided is not the same as the one that comes out,kit comes with new hyd pedal,bushes,c clips,washes,and new adjustable master cyl rod which i strongly reckon you should use after last time a struggled for days trying to work out why i am getting no disengauagement of clutch because the rod was to short ,after fitting the adj rod it worked 1st go,althou your pedal might be sticking out a tad further than usual but we can live with that.,here is a pic of the new pedal end poking out ready to install the pedal note the old small rod that has been cut off otherwise the new one wont fit.

should look something like this but must protrude a bit more because the c clip will need to be outside the frame to secure it.

mark the new rod and grind a slot into it,should only take a few mins until it fits snug

I have been wanting to do this for a while and got around to it today,i have a xf manual pedal box that suits a cable clutch and will be converting it to hyd set up,i have the pedal box on the floor and the new kit next to it.

Take the old clutch pedal off and the small rod is exposed,this will need cutting off as close as possible to the frame.

Then unclip the longer rod and tap with a hammer and the rod slides out ,keep in order the way it came out,note the right side is slotted .The new rod will need to be put on a bench grinder to make a slot .

first unclip this off the clutch pedal.

TTS010, is XD/XE Cleveland - (XD/XE gauges use lower resistance senders)
U need to run an XF temp sender, for the XF dash cluster
 
I think around 60ohms, = mid-way on XF temp gauges, and 35ohms = Max/Hot
 
Tridon TTS037 should be the one u need. (thread/post terminal)
OR
VDO 320.093 (OEM)
OR
FuelMiser CTS144
Undo the thread adaptor from ur old sensor, and re-use it (Crossflow 1/8 - 27NPT to Cleveland 3/8 - 18NPT)

Mate thanks for the part numbers! Managed to find the Fuelmiser locally, I'll let you know when I get my hands on it but this sounds promising. Appreciated!

Dont worry too much about the fitting/terminal, just cut off the spade or whatever on your wiring, and solder on the correct terminal for the sender. Clevo temp sender usually goes in the front of the block, left hand side of the water pump. Sounds like you just need the sender to operate in a different range. @SPArKy_Dave Do you know what Ohms etc might suit..?

I've had to bend the rods, and reposition the pivot before to take up some slack on rear doors. i suspect due to non genuine handle ? 
 
 

ghias had a longer bolt